2/2

After many matt clear coat i started and finished the work with rivets (on ral car are spherical hex bolt). I put the rivets and xf56 color and a final black panel line

I also addes rivets and head crew inside the bathtube following the references pics. For herad screw i used PE generic set for 1/12 motogp

I also little detail the brake bias control and i also modified the fitting syestem for future connection to extra cable inside the tunnel leg

I clear gloss coated the Ayrton seat to coat the carbon, next step will be the padding in the balck area with ducktape as on real MP4/4-02

I also replaced the throttle cable, the first version is too bigger size and wrong

Thanks Malc.

I made some shot with monocoque and nose cone....but I'm not satisfied with end result: the pale gold base is too much visible.









I decrease the gold/bronze effect with another light coat of smoke, and now it's quite similar to real mocoque. The color change with different point of view and light. It changes in bronze, brown wit a littel bit green yellow...like the real mp4/4. I think to take the right way for this trouble

Very nice work, loving the detail.

Mark

Archived another commissioned Delta I can go back to my Mclaren .....I immediately went back to work on also for detoxify from this third Delta which i worked from october to January.

I admit that I had over an hour of blackout to try to get back on the reached building point.

I started again from the carbon decal: After received the last sets of the Museum Collection decal, I continued the working on undertray I started the work on the front: I closed the injection points just leaving the central poins that will be covered from monocoque

I work on two pieces that in the real car are one piece with undertray. These part are at base of inlet radiator pods

I also worked on rear undertray/diffuser: The extractor is well done but the final part has thicknesses that looked like sidewalks.

I started and finished the thinning work of the final parts of both the vertical bulkheads and the extractor itself (both laterally and in the central tunnel where there is the back of gearbox

I masked the coloured zones (that are correct for future decal base color) and I painted the black zone in graphite gray.

I Painted and removed the masking and then with a new blade I started to made some scratch on some credible areas where is possible contact with ground.

When ‘ll finished the decal work, the future clear coating, I’ll use a white and gray chalk to try to relicate the ground contact like on references photo.

Thanks very much Roy!

I started the first part of the decal work on undertray and extractor.

The MC decals are many and some different textures. I start to place theme in various step.

I started with the first part of carbon (dark gray), the first part of kevlar (yellow) and the third brown area which is a mixed wood composite (I think the Jabroc).

The T-tray for checking the height from the ground was imposed since (tragic) 1994.

Meanwhile the decals rest one day, I start the rework on hubs

My idea is to fill them and make them one-piece.
My first problem was to separate the hub from the stub....and I didn't remember if I had used cyan or glue for ABS (and it would be a big problem)

3 days in the freezer and they jumped off quite easily 3 ... on the 4th I put it back in the freezer and it took me a little more than "love" but I managed to separate it unharmed ....... ah, luckily it was cyano glue.

Thanks Malc!

After 3 day of decal work i finished the underside

I rest the decal at least for 48 hours to set all decals. Than i'll start to coat with matt clear to protect the decal and avoid the risk of damage to the decals when i'll work on the upperside.

I finished the carbon work on upper side of diffuseur zone. Now just remainig the final work of clear matt coating

I started some little work on electrovalves of bypass circuit and for pressure/temperature of intercooler system.
I would made a better job, but it was a sure broken if i tried to dismantle the valve from the bracket.
So i made a little paint detail and i remade some joint. The Haynes book help me to understand the complicated bypass system

I made some little details to the radiators: i remade the hose joint with a shrink and added a selfmade alu clamps


I also little detailed the 3 main ecu: I cut the original plug and i added the top studio plug and some PE bolts on left radiator pod ecu.














Tratto dal mio libro Haynes




Tratto dal mio libro Haynes