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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Whilst regretting knocking on the door of 50 something years old I consider to be fortunate in the fact that I can remember watching and hearing about Formula 1 from the early to mid 1960's and as such with the exception of Fangio I have witnessed all of the great drivers over the decades. I shall avoid going down the well trodden path of just who was the greatest of them all but in my eyes Aryton was right up there and we will never really know just how great he should have been destined to be. I recall the tragic weekend as if it was yesterday and it certainly does not seem 20 years ago.
Something you may not know is that Mr Senna was a keen aero modeller in his spare time, and was a very accomplished model aircraft and model helicopter pilot. A model shop I used to visit in Birmingham had a picture of the owners son teaching Aryton how to fly a model helicopter.
Kyosho kits bring back fond memories as well. In the late 80's I started flying (maybe crashing) model helicopters. Back then you were really on your own, very few people flew them so it was a case of trail and error. I had several high degrees of error with a MFA sport 500, and a Morely Maverick and all the time in the shop was this very expensive box which contained a Kyosho Concept 30 DX. I avoided it as it was horrendously expensive for the time, but in the end I purchased it. By following the instructions exactly produced a machine that you could get into the hover and it would just sit there, completely rock solid.
It was with that, and later the Concept 30 SX, Concept 30 SR and the Concept 60 that many happy hours and gallons of fuel were burnt and I learnt to fly model helicopters.
I was quite excited when Mr T announced that finally the team had managed to arrange this kit to be released here. This morning well the door bell rang postie was clutching this box for me. This is a major improvement on the normal black plastic bags or "jiffy" bags that stuff is dispatched to us in.
The magazine containing the assembly instructions and various articles is first class and excellent quality, both in terms of the printed medium and the content.
Pack 1:
Pack 2:
Pack 3:
So I'm off to get some ABS glue.
Dave
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Nice intro and hope you enjoy the build 
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 Nice intro and that shop it wasn't Mike's modell's was it Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Thank you Mr T.
Yes Andy it most certainly was. I have spent a small fortune with Mark over the years, it was a real shame when they called it a day, although my bank manager probably did not share that point of view.
Dave
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Small world Dave and I still ocasionally visit and yes so easy to spend a fortune in that emporium of delights Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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A small world indeed Andy.
Issue 1 - Pack 1
When I subscribed to this I made a mental note that I was going to attempt to keep up with the build, rather than as so often happens you have boxes full of magazines and parts and your wondering what to do next, and invariably not a lot of anything gets done !
Firstly as I suspected a model from the Kyosho stable would be is just pure quality. I know there are modellers that will always view any kit as a canvas that they apply their own art to, but from the initial parts it certainly looks as if this is going to build a quality scale model right out of the box. There is probably only one downside to this series, they way it is packaged as 20 consignments at the price it is, mean than any mistakes that cannot be rectified are going to be very expensive ones.
It is also many years since I built anything needing polystryene cement and I have awful memories of early attempts assembling plastic models with runs of glue and finger prints appearing from no where. I recall I really did like the smell of the stuff though. I do often wonder how todays young modellers get on in todays sanitised world where they will never know what things like dope and model diesel engine fuel smell like. Maybe it wasn't modelling we got addicted to all those years ago !.
So for adhesives I got hold of some stuff called liquid poly and a product called PVC pipe weld from your local 3 letter DIY store which in the smaller print states it will bond ABS plastics. Anything else I will use from stock.
First job is to trail fit the front wing to the nose cone.
Next is a rather delicate operation where you remove the coating on the ABS wing by scraping with a modelling knife or scalpel. The magazine suggests an alternate method but you would probably meed to mask the area.
Remembering the horrors of glue everywhere when gluing plastic I very sparingly applied the ABS glue to the flats on the inside of the nose cone where the tabs on the wing located. My reason for doing it that way is that any excess would be pushed up by the tabs into the nose, rather than down and out if it was done the the other way.
I was also a little worried as to if the glue I had purchased would do the job, you do not get any test pieces to try it on. After leaving it for twenty minutes or so it was rock solid. You will not get it apart again easily so I was quite pleased with it.
Apologies but I did not take any pictures of the assembly of the black inner nose cone assembly. Again though I deviated from the instructions and applied liquid poly to the areas in the bottom half where the tabs on the top half locate. To identify the locations I dry assembled the parts, applied masking tape across the lower front opening and scribed the location of the rear upper tabs. When dry I had the first two assemblies complete, 50 odd years of modelling and at last I managed to glue 4 bits of plastic together with no runs and no embossed finger prints - thats a result in my book.
Remaining parts were wrapped in kitchen towel and labelled, the instructions called for a logo to be held in place with masking tape in the rocker cover. I did not do this as you should not leave most masking tapes in place for more than 3-4 hours, unless you want an awful mess to clean up.
Part 2 soon.
Dave
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Issue 1 - Pack 2
The main task of this pack is to add the end plates and adjustable winglets to the front wing.
The image which is shown in the instructions to identify the screws is really not that good. It uses to be the case that for helicopter and R/C car kits Kyosho would print full size images of screws, bolts and nuts used, and where, like these they are very small an exploded view would also be printed.
You can either work out which is which by the good old fashioned process of elimination method, or the screws designated by P are pan head and F are flat head.
Something that assists tightening these screws which I did when building model helicopters was that where you have a screw, even a self tapper that you are screwing into plastic is that life becomes much easier if the threads are lubricated. To do this this I use a candle and drag the screw across it. This will pick up a small amount of wax in the threads that will assist in cutting the thread as the screw is tightened. With screws this small this needs to be done carefully as if to much pressure is used and they fly off, your really going to struggle to find them again.
Two screws are inserted into the end plate.
This is now one of those tasks where you wish you had three hands ! The end plate is positioned against the wing and the screws tightened. You need to leave enough play to insert the locating lugs of the adjustable winglet into the nose and endplate. When this is done and the winglet is set at one of the three selectable levels of downforce then the two screws can be tightened home. Take care not to over tighten and strip the thread you will have cut.
Finally I inserted one of the pan head screws, lubricated with candle wax to secure the position of the adjustable winglet.
Repeat this on the other side and fit a front tyre to the rim and thats pretty much it for this pack.
More soon,
Dave
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Issue 1 - Pack 3
We start off with two halves of a brake disk that need aligning and gluing together.
Next after removing paint by scraping at the contact points the brake pads are glued into the calliper. There is a mould line some flashing on the face. I may remove this later if it interferes with the brake disk.
The paint is scraped away from the contact points before gluing the two halves of the calliper.
Thats pretty much it for this pack. The instructions suggest attaching the front of the engine block to the block, but state it needs to be removed again so I just wrapped everything in soft kitchen towel and am awaiting true next parts pack.
One slight disappointment, but I am not sure how much of it you will see. The plastic brake disk looks like a carbon brake disk with a metal insert, the plastic brake calliper looks like a metal brake calliper with brake pads fitted. The plastic engine block looks like, well a lump of plastic, it may well be though that you do not really see it. Time will tell.
Till next time.
Dave
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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 14/04/2011 Posts: 39 Points: 110 Location: Milton Keynes
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Dave
Re the engine block, I have been following a few Japanese build diaries and very little if any of that inner engine block is visual when the engine is completed. There are a number of detailed panels and various plumbing that hides this block.
Cheers
Andrew
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Hi Andrew,
I hoped that would be the case, thank you for taking the time to confirm it.
Regards
Dave
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Issue 2
4 Parts packs, a double sided poster and this deliveries build manual and reading material make up issue 2.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Issue 2 - Pack 4
Assembly starts with placing the clutch plates into the clutch cage.
This is then screwed onto the engine end plate.
Another brake calliper is assembled.
These and any unused items are stored for later.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Nice work and nicely presented build
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Issue 2 - Pack 5
Thank you Mr T, i have to say the level of detail on some of the parts is first class.
We start with the main aero-foil of the rear wing removing paint from the joining surface of the lower half and the ends ensuring the small projections are not damaged.
The two halves are glued together, I used ABS glue for this. I was concerned as this time I was glueing ABS plastic to a painted surface, and I had concerns about if it would do the job. After leaving it for around an hour the joint was good on this and the wing joint and one of the flaps.
Next the rear wing is glued to one of the rear wing end plates. This again is another plastic to paint joint and it took me several attempts to get it to stick correctly. To much glue and it will push out of the joint, to little and it will just fall apart.
I then added the two rear flaps and left it overnight to cure.
Finally the remaining endplate is glued into position and left to cure.
Given the problems I had using a standard ABS adhesive on this, and that there will probably be more ABS to assemble, I have now ordered some of the EMA Plastic Weld as suggested by Spencer and used in the official build.
Till next time,
Dave
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Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/05/2014 Posts: 230 Points: 657 Location: Northeast USA
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Great idea to use a steel square to get the perfect angle, thanks for sharing this.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2011 Posts: 434 Points: 1,309 Location: milton keynes
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Great start Dave looking very tidy regards Dan Built - MP4/23, Zero, Deagostini Falcon, Model Airways 1903 Wright Flyer, Senna Mp4/4.
Working - Mclaren M23 1/8th scale to complement the Deagostini MP4/23 & Mp4/4
on the bench, Model Airways Sopwith Camel.
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 Rank: Elite     Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Looking good Dave Spencer
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Issue 2 - Pack 6
Thank you all for the kind comments.
We move on with the construction of the rear wing stay. Again paint is removed from the top of the components as shown.
I used the ABS glue that I had been using previously sparingly applied along the area paint had been removed from. After joining the parts check they are parallel and the gap is equidistant.
Next wooden skids (plastic simulated) are fitted to the underside of the front wing end plates. Again the paint needs to be scraped off and check that you do not remove all the black from the bottom of the end plate as there is a very fine black line which is seen after fitting along the joint.
Again I used ABS glue to attach the skids.
I also glued in place the lower nose cone.
That I now believe is the front nose completed.
I deviated from the instructions and did not glue the rear wing stay in place at this point in time, I will wait until it can be mounted and glue it at that point. Thats all for this part.
Regards
Dave
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/05/2014 Posts: 230 Points: 657 Location: Northeast USA
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Another good idea by Dave not to glue the wing/ support in place until the car is up on wheels, I am doing the same. For any other builders I would suggest installing the wood end plate skids BEFORE attaching the end plates to the wings.
As far as adhesives go, I have been using Locktite Super Bond on the assembly except where time is needed to adjust and fit parts, like the rear wing assembly. The Super Bond sets in less than 15 seconds and has full strength in an hour or less. Apply with a toothpick for those precision areas.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Issue 2 - Pack 7
Thank you Eagle, yes the front end plate skids would be easier to fit before the end plates are attached to the wing. I have not seen that adhesive from loctite over this side of the pond, it no doubt exists but under a different name.
For pack 7 we make a start in earnest on the engine. The Honda logo's are attached to the rocker covers. I used super glue gel applied with a toothpick very sparingly for this, you really do not want and of the white fog appearing on the top of the assembly.
The rocker covers and end plates are attached to the block (the end plates should have been done under issue 1). The instructions warn that they will need to be removed again, but I took the approach it would be better to do this than risk losing some of the minute screws.
The end of the plenum chamber is attached using sparingly applied super glue gel.
I used liquid poly to glue the two halves of the alternator together after scraping the paint away.
It is really starting to look like an engine now, although most of the parts are only temporarily located at this point.
Thats all until the next issue.
Dave
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