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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
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Hi everyone,
Am I right in thinking that the brass pins in the planking are to be cut off and sanded flush with the hull? Also, I am curious as to whether the method of planking described in the magazine (21) will give us the staggered effect of the planking, that is if I am correct in thinking this is the standard way of doing it?
Cheers, Tom
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
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I am sure that even if filed flush they will still show thought the paint. Would it not be better to use another method, as suggested, and do away with the pins?
John
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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thomasmoult wrote:Hi everyone,
Am I right in thinking that the brass pins in the planking are to be cut off and sanded flush with the hull? Also, I am curious as to whether the method of planking described in the magazine (21) will give us the staggered effect of the planking, that is if I am correct in thinking this is the standard way of doing it?
Cheers, Tom It depends on which version you are building and level of expertise. If your building the painted version, pins are removed once the glue is fully dry, where later on any pin holes will be filled. If building the natural version, pin heads are snipped off and the shanks driven in, because pin holes will remain if pins are fully removed. Planking can also be secured by clamping, but will require ingenious ways of clamping and is more for the experienced builder. Model Shipways do a huge range of clamps which can be found on some UK web sites and on eBay http://www.modelexpo-onl.../search.asp?SKW=cat1_cc
This set is a favoured item http://www.modelexpo-onl...roduct.asp?ITEMNO=MX103
Let alone the methods being described in this forum for making your own planking clamps
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Thanks for the replies, I'm going for the natural finish and think the brass pins will look pretty nice when sanded flush with the hull.
Have just started adding the planking today - however I seem to have a slight variation with my model as opposed to the magazine and the build diary; once the first plank is placed (between ribs 17-24) we have to plank along the same length toward the stern. The pictures show the plank level and sat nicely up with the galley supports we planked last issue. However, on my model, this first length of plank that sits flush with the bottom gun deck is a good 2/3rds of an inch below where the galley supports begin. Is this ok?
Thanks, Tom
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Here are some photos I took with the plank held up to show: The final picture shows a plank positioned correctly as per the magazine so it is flush with the bottom of the lower gun deck. As you can see, it does not come anywhere near the galley supports. Does anyone else seem to have this problem? And can anyone suggest what to do? I would bend the end round and leave it unglued for now but just wanted to double check first! Thanks, Tom
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Not an expert but it looks as if you aint pushed the rear piece down far enough, the top of the piece (31) should be flush with the top of the keel. If that makes sense.
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andylangtree wrote:Not an expert but it looks as if you aint pushed the rear piece down far enough, the top of the piece (31) should be flush with the top of the keel. If that makes sense. Just checked some photos on the build diary and I think you are right. However, the parts were all fitted in snugly. I find it strange that I would have had to have sanded a good 20mm off the slot to make it sit deeper because at the time it fitted right up how it said in magazine. Ah my day just got worse..
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Hi Tom
If you look at picture 7 in Issue 18, you can see that the lower curves on pieces 30/31 almost coincide. There is a note to say don't worry if these do not match exactly BUT they are pretty close.
Your 31 is definitely too high. Need to ask Tomick or one of the experts how you can correct this. Hard Luck
Mike T
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MARY MOTHER OF GOD I hope to never have to do that ever again! After receiving the crushing news that the rear ribs was too high, I endeavoured to correct it by any SAFE means. So, I carefully cut through the rib flush with the one behind it, and after hours of slowly working it out, I finally got it off. This was after I had run the blade across my finger, bled across the middle gun deck (luckily not on the beech planking! )and lost an hour waiting for the blood to stop! Once removed, I had to sand the slot right down, so now it fits well just as in the picture! THAT WILL TEACH ME TO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS BETTER, REMEMBER GUYS, IF ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, THEN READ THEM AGAIN, AND THEN AGAIN, AND THEN FINALLY DOUBLE CHECK THEM! It was not a pretty sight to see Victory's stern torn out like that Thanks for all your help guys, Tom
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I am trying to get away without using pins on all the planking on both Ships. Most modellers only pin to tack them in place then pull them out. The deagostini pins are not brass only coloured brass. Once they are snipped and sanded they are silver and prone to rust. I found that out on the San Fran 2.
Planking, If you are choosing not too pin, then you can only do a couple of planks every 2-3 hours if using Alphatic Glue. But you get good finish. Pinless on natural wood finish is very nice especially in this sized ship too.
Look at my Surprise build just under here. Im not using pins..
Chris...On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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magpie1832 wrote:I am trying to get away without using pins on all the planking on both Ships. Most modellers only pin to tack them in place then pull them out. The deagostini pins are not brass only coloured brass. Once they are snipped and sanded they are silver and prone to rust. I found that out on the San Fran 2.
Thanks Chris, Do they rust if they get wet, in addition to tarnishing over time? Perhaps a re-think I am currently not tacking and using bent pins to secure the planks until dry, an incredibly slow process! Cheers, Tom
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Using plastic noteboard pins works well, Pin into the bulkhead and let the plastic shoulder hold the plank in place. As for pins you will find a lot of model kits are supplied with brass plated steel pins which will decolor the wood but proper brass pins are available if you search for them. Built Billings Le Bayard Mamoli Golden Hind Corel Shenandoah In Progress AL King of the Mississippi Mantua HMY Britannia 1893/HMS Victory 1/98 Stopped Yet to start AL Zuiderzee Botter (Pre laser)Fun fun fun Constructo HMS Victory Caldercraft HMS Victory Deag HMS Victory
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magpie1832 wrote:[size=7]I am trying to get away without using pins on all the planking on both Ships. Most modellers only pin to tack them in place then pull them out. The deagostini pins are not brass only coloured brass. Once they are snipped and sanded they are silver and prone to rust. I found that out on the San Fran 2.
As I mentioned if you take them out the holes will need filling presumably. There seem to be a couple of good methods for holding the planks, on the forum that would be preferable or would it be better to simply follow the instructions in the mag? Thanks John
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thomas,you are indeed learning fast,that the best way to build a boat is to slow down,read the forum strings,we have discussed every topic concerning the build and have excelant pics showing how!so please take time out and explore the forum for all pieces of advice,good luck and be careful we all have had your problems but did'nt have the help you have,enjoy without the pain. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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karl1113 wrote:thomas,you are indeed learning fast,that the best way to build a boat is to slow down,read the forum strings,we have discussed every topic concerning the build and have excelant pics showing how!so please take time out and explore the forum for all pieces of advice,good luck and be careful we all have had your problems but did'nt have the help you have,enjoy without the pain. Thanks mate I was really annoyed at myself for making such a stupid mistake, but thankfully I have sorted it now and not later on! Its really enjoyable planking the hull. I spent years and years when I was younger collecting 'Warhammer' and building all sorts of model buildings etc, but planking a wooden model ship is certainly an acquired skill. Luckily I have this forum, and also my dad has spent years doing these models so I am lucky to have him around to ask. I just wish there were more than 3 rows in this issue to plank! Does anyone know which parts will be next? Cheers everyone, Tom
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thom it tells you on the back of the last mag whats to come in the nxt 1 Alan
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captainalan wrote:thom it tells you on the back of the last mag whats to come in the nxt 1 Alan Aye it says the parts we will receive, which in this instance is more planking strips. I was just curious as to which parts we will be planking next (further up the hull I believe) and how much we will be doing if anyone knew. Cheers, Tom
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See Tomick's latest in the official build
Mike T
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Ooh just finished writing a post and the good mans updated it, thanks Tomick, and thanks to everyone for their replies Best wishes, Tom
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After reading this and after due consideration I think once I get to the planking stage of my build I will remove the pins after the glue is completely dry and fill the holes with a mix of fine sawdust and dilute PVA adhesive, wait for this to dry and then sand it flush with the planks. I reckon this might avoid paint seepage holes, however I could be wrong and creating more work for myself (so what's new my brain cries).
LOL
Kev
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