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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Here we have Revell's larger scale EasyKit X-Wing Fighter which measures 435mm long and currently one of the bigger kits on sale unless you want to go for the more expensive resin kits. This kit is from their snapfit range and comes pre-weathered and has 93 parts. The general construction is very clear and quick to build with no flash on the parts but clean-up from where the parts are removed from the sprue's will need to be done. The detail is nice and crisp with some very nice mauldings which scream out for Xtra detail to be added. The parts are pre-painted/weathered but not to the standard of anyone who loves StarWars Kits this is where i have decided to add my own Magic. I will do my best to outline as many techniques as possible on how to achieve a good "Battle" effect and once again it may not be to everyones taste but gives you some ideas to try. First off I removed all the larger parts and leaned them up and gave a good wash. These where allowed to dry and the all put together to form the main overall design. The whole kit was given light coats of Halfords Primer white and allowed to dry overnight before been given a light sanding down to remove any imperfections in the paint and give a nice finish ready for the weathering. Part two coming soon... Spencer Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Part Two... Now on to the weathering! The wing details, rear fuselage panel and top panel where given a good coating od Citadel Black Wash making sure that the solution flowed into the right areas allowing it to build up as shown. This was then allowed to dry but to speed up the process I used a hair dryer on medium setting as not to over heat the plastic. Spencer Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Part Three.. Once the wash has dried it's time to do some "Dry Brushing". Dry brushing is a method of applying paint to bring out details normaly not seen and give it more "depth". Working over the area until the paint starts to come through, highlighting the area applied. To do this I used Vallejo Model Colour White (70919). Apply a small amount onto yor mixing bowl or plate and then using a 6mm flat artists brush dab the brush into the paint and then with a tissue remove most of the paint leaving it so that if you where to whip it on your hand no paint will come off. The brush should in effect look dry but white with paint. Now start to work this into the area you want to highlight and give detail to and add more as you go allong until you are happy with the results. Below are the results that I wanted and if you compare the 2 images then you can see what has been achieved with the Dry Brush method. This can also be done with other different colours on many different types of Model Media, may that be aircraft or Armour etc. Spencer Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Part Four... Time to start adding some colour now and with any X_Wing that has either been stuck in a swamp or on an Ice Planet, your going to get some rust in some areas. For this I used Windsor and Newton Fast drying oils Burnt Sienna and some Turps. There are two ways you can do this and that is add the turps to the area on the model first then the Burnt Sienna or Burnt Sienna first then wash with Turps. In this stage I have added very small dabs of the Sienna in a few areas then using your larger 6mm brush, dip it in to the turps and gently drag over the Burnt Sienna so that it streaks in the direction of movement that the rust will naturaly flow. You can add as little or as much as you want depending on how "Rusty" you want it to look. Once your happy, then leave aside to completely dry but don't wipe or touch any access as this adds to the effect.. Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Part Five... Once the Turps has dried off completely it's now time to start laying down some panel line detail and for this I used Vallejo modelair jet black. The Canopy was masked of and the Air brush was set to 15psi. If you do not have an airbrush you can get a very good result using pastels by scraping the pastel so a fine dust builds up onto a plate or mixing tub that you use for your paints. QWith the powder you then gently apply the powder into the panel lines to highlight them. Once happy with the panel lines I put all the main components back together... Spencer Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Part Six... Once all the shading is done it's time to lay down some colour, this will be the "RED 5" Markings for this build. For the red I used Zero Paints Ferrari Rosso and for the yellow some FW14 again from Zero paints. Some dabs of Maskol was applied before masking off and giving the model a thin layer of the colours. Once dry the masking tape is removed and the Maskol rubbed off to reveal "chipping" of the paint. Spencer Part 7 coming soon.. Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Very nice Spencer, and a great weathering lesson also Steve
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 7,963 Points: 23,078 Location: East midlands
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Hi Spencer, Great weathering detail and love this kit. I have a major project in the offing and was wondering about the use of Maskol. When you use Maskol and obviously paint over it, how long do you wait before removing it and how do you remove it? Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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stevie_o wrote:Very nice Spencer, and a great weathering lesson also Steve Cheers Steve and I hope it comes in helpfull for those wanting to give it a try Spencer
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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delboy271155 wrote:Hi Spencer, Great weathering detail and love this kit. I have a major project in the offing and was wondering about the use of Maskol. When you use Maskol and obviously paint over it, how long do you wait before removing it and how do you remove it? Regards delboy271155 (Derek) Hi Derek and thanks for the kind comments Maskol dries very quickly and once painted over it's a case of allowing the paint to dry before removing. A simple rub over with either your finger or cloth will do the trick. Very effective for stone chips etc on Armour and other vehicles that take a battering. Spencer
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Part Seven.. Nearing the final stages now and the colours applied earlier have been masked off and ready for a coat of white to dull down the panel lines. Vallejo Primer white was used and the whole model was given a few dusting's over. Once dry the masking tape was removed, some was left on around the canopy for further detailing later. Spencer Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 7,963 Points: 23,078 Location: East midlands
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Warthog wrote:delboy271155 wrote:Hi Spencer, Great weathering detail and love this kit. I have a major project in the offing and was wondering about the use of Maskol. When you use Maskol and obviously paint over it, how long do you wait before removing it and how do you remove it? Regards delboy271155 (Derek) Hi Derek and thanks for the kind comments Maskol dries very quickly and once painted over it's a case of allowing the paint to dry before removing. A simple rub over with either your finger or cloth will do the trick. Very effective for stone chips etc on Armour and other vehicles that take a battering. Spencer Hi Spencer, Thanks for response, but one final question for now Is it any good for masking the framework of airplane cockpits to stop paint going on the glass? Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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It's perfect for that Derek and can be used on all plastics. Apply with a paint brush and clean the brush with water. The thicker you put it on the longer it takes to dry. Spencer
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 7,963 Points: 23,078 Location: East midlands
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Warthog wrote:
It's perfect for that Derek and can be used on all plastics. Apply with a paint brush and clean the brush with water. The thicker you put it on the longer it takes to dry.
Spencer
Hi Spencer, Many thanks for your time and info Got lots of places this will be useful on and a new one to be disclosed tomorrow. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Part Eight.. Some more weathering has been added to the main bodywork to give it a more battle ready effect of wear and tear etc. Some more detail to add later and detail need to be picked out on the engines. The glow effect to the engines will be added later and a few bumps and scrapes and blaster damage. Spencer Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Love it Spence, was going to ask when R2 was going to make an appearance, this just shows what can be achieved even with simple kit. Steve
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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It certainly does Steve and with minimum tools and experience anything can be achieved on these kits. R2 needs a bit of work as he unfortunately got a hit from a TIE fighter . Some work to do on the cannons etc and a good base for it I think.. Maybe "The Canyon Run"..... Might need to go and get dome more sheets of plasticard I think! Spencer
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Hi Guy's... other bits of detail added and to be honest you can go as heavy or as light as you want.. battle damage, laser strikes etc can be achieved in much the same way.. Pictures of the finished model. Spencer Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Really great weathering there, nice job.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Love it Spence! Did you do some damage on the R2? Steve
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