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 Rank: Pro     Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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G'day all Here's some progress photos of my SotS build to date; up to issue 9. There have been no major problems so far except that my base board started to bow upwards in the centre (about 5mm) so she was in effect riding on the crest of a wave. Fixed it with a 1/4" bolt, wing nut and washers right through the workbench, so it's a nice flat surface again. Pic #1. Rib nos. 13a & 15a are warped slightly leaning approx 5deg forward. They are glued nice and flat to their respective frames - the warp starts at the top of the frame. I think the fitting of the deck plates will align them correctly. Frame 27 is only dry fitted, following Mr Tomicks' Official Build. Have decided to infill the hull as per MWG's excellent tutorial and have made a start at the bow section. Made a start also on the ships' boat - fiddley little critter isn't it?  Cheers all, JohnP John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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Nice work John, she is starting to show her shape.... well done....  Regards Alan
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 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi John. Looking really good mate. See you've started infilling on the bow. That looks good too. Are you going for full infill after first decking? It's going to be a lot of work but I think it will be worthwhile for the planking later. All to their own of course. Regards George PS. Sorry I missed your query on the Dremel. However I noticed today others have replied so you should be up to date on that. I have a Dremel as well as a much lighter cheaper 12 volt one. They both have similar gear but the 12 volt is much lighter and easier to handle for certain jobs and when higher speeds are needed I use the Dremel. The 12 volt- 18 volt kits are cheap at around $29.00. Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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G'day George Thanks for your complimentary words of encouragement - and yes I intend to infill the hull, following MWG's excellent tutorial and additional help from Mr Gandale's build diary. One problem I had there, was in keeping the work steady and immobile in a safe and secure manner as I didn't want the model resting upside down on the tops of the ribs. Neither MWG or Mr Gandale seem to address this issue so I used a clamping system on my bench in the garage. It works well and the ship is kept safe and secure. Pics below; Thanks for the tip re the Dremel. John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi John Good thinking and great idea re the clamping to save rib frames from possibility of breaking under pressure when upside down. At this stage we don't have any decking or one tip I got from a query was to use doweling on a base in mast holes as a support when ship required to be upside down for things like infilling, painting, planking etc., to save breakage from pressure. Well done John. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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George1 wrote:Hi John Good thinking and great idea re the clamping to save rib frames from possibility of breaking under pressure when upside down. At this stage we don't have any decking or one tip I got from a query was to use doweling on a base in mast holes as a support when ship required to be upside down for things like infilling, painting, planking etc., to save breakage from pressure. Well done John. Regards George Hi George Thanks for the tip re the doweling, I'll need to get some. Went to the newsagent today and got issue 11 and have dry fitted the lower deck panels. All slotted in nicely except panel 31 starboard side. I had to tweak a couple of the rib slots a little bit. Frame 6 was the culprit - not quite square with the keel at about 1mm out. In the interim, I have used a 9.5mm drill bit for the main mast locator and a 7.5mm drill bit for the after mast. Any idea what the mast diameters' are at the base? Pics below: John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi John. Looking the goods mate. I had to adjust slightly too at the bow as was a little tight till I did. As for diameter mast holes just need to measure holes in decking. I'm not sure offhand. I will have to measure up for doweling as well to make up a base after second deck on for bottom planking and any later painting. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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George1 wrote:Hi John. Looking the goods mate. I had to adjust slightly too at the bow as was a little tight till I did. As for diameter mast holes just need to measure holes in decking. I'm not sure offhand. I will have to measure up for doweling as well to make up a base after second deck on for bottom planking and any later painting. Regards George Hi George The reason I asked about the mast diam is that the after mast bushing on the keel would only take a 7.5mm size bit - maximum. The hole in the deck is a loose 8mm. If the mast is any bigger, that bushing will have to be adjusted to suit before everything is enclosed permanently. Maybe I should ask Mr Gandale.  Regards JohnP
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Hi John just read the post the main mast is 10 mm with a taper down to 8 mm hopes this helps Rgd Martyn Building ?
Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa
Next Build ?
When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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John Passmore wrote:George1 wrote:Hi John. Looking the goods mate. I had to adjust slightly too at the bow as was a little tight till I did. As for diameter mast holes just need to measure holes in decking. I'm not sure offhand. I will have to measure up for doweling as well to make up a base after second deck on for bottom planking and any later painting. Regards George Hi George The reason I asked about the mast diam is that the after mast bushing on the keel would only take a 7.5mm size bit - maximum. The hole in the deck is a loose 8mm. If the mast is any bigger, that bushing will have to be adjusted to suit before everything is enclosed permanently. Maybe I should ask Mr Gandale. Regards JohnP Hi John, from what I can see and looking from bow to stern thickness at the base of the masts are 8mm, 10mm and 8mm. The bowsprit is 10mm thick... .. This pic may help.. Hope this answers your query. Regards Alan Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Gandale wrote:John Passmore wrote:George1 wrote:Hi John. Looking the goods mate. I had to adjust slightly too at the bow as was a little tight till I did. As for diameter mast holes just need to measure holes in decking. I'm not sure offhand. I will have to measure up for doweling as well to make up a base after second deck on for bottom planking and any later painting. Regards George Hi George The reason I asked about the mast diam is that the after mast bushing on the keel would only take a 7.5mm size bit - maximum. The hole in the deck is a loose 8mm. If the mast is any bigger, that bushing will have to be adjusted to suit before everything is enclosed permanently. Maybe I should ask Mr Gandale. Regards JohnP Hi John, from what I can see and looking from bow to stern thickness at the base of the masts are 8mm, 10mm and 8mm. The bowsprit is 10mm thick... .. This pic may help.. Hope this answers your query. Regards Alan Hi Alan Thank you for your response and the mast dimensions - I can just make out the numbers! I've adjusted the after mast bushing to accept 8mm bit nice and snug. It was the slot in the keel slightly undersize. Regards JohnP
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi John. Your query answered and mine as well regards measuring for doweling. Thanks Alan. Now to find a decent heavy base board to set it all up. I know there are tools with a bar clamp that would hold two pieces of doweling that have a heavy metal base that won't tip over however there is a limit to my budget.  So the heavy base board will have to do. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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George1 wrote:Hi John. Your query answered and mine as well regards measuring for doweling. Thanks Alan. Now to find a decent heavy base board to set it all up. I know there are tools with a bar clamp that would hold two pieces of doweling that have a heavy metal base that won't tip over however there is a limit to my budget. So the heavy base board will have to do. Regards George G'day George Luckily I've got a nice big jarrah workbench in the garage - weighs a ton.  I'll drill a 10mm & 8mm hole in that for the mast dowels, then build timber supports to firmly clamp focs'l frame 2 and stern post 23. That should hold the old girl firmly. Regards JohnP
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi John. Check out my thread, page 10, post 188. Andy has posted a build URL regarding a JIG for holding ships upside down. This one for the Victory, but easily adapted. Worth looking at first before you do anything. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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George1 wrote:Hi John. Check out my thread, page 10, post 188. Andy has posted a build URL regarding a JIG for holding ships upside down. This one for the Victory, but easily adapted. Worth looking at first before you do anything. Regards George G'day George Thanks for the info re the jig on the Victory build - that is a really efficient method as well as economical. It will hold the deck plates in place at the same time as holding the model safely and securely. I will proceed with that. Meanwhile here's some pics of progress so far; John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/04/2014 Posts: 36 Points: 108 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Hi John,
Looking great. I was trying to work out what to do when I need to turn the ship upside down to plank without damaging the ribs. Excellent ideas.
Regards,
Michael
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi John Your set up looks like it's pretty good. Ship looking good mate. You'll find the infill a little tedious, but great once done. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Martyn Ingram wrote: Hi John just read the post the main mast is 10 mm with a taper down to 8 mm hopes this helps Rgd Martyn Hi Martin Thanks for the info - Alan sent me a data sheet from deAg which is very handy. Regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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G'day all Just an administrative enquiry.... I see my member status is 'unapproved'. Can anyone let me know what that means exactly? Do I need to do something to become approved? Makes me feel like an interloper Regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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No worries John, the system hadn't picked you up, is now resolved and congrat's on your first medal .
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