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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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The following aerosol colours are noted within the instructions, (note that the blue and yellow of the 'PS' and 'TS' paint ranges, are not the same shade as each other):
Racing Body:
The racing body is made of polycarbonate lexan. You must use a paint specifically suited to this purpose, though some components which are added to the racing body are high impact polystyrene (HIPS), such as the TV camera, where a paint suited to HIPS should be used, (noted as 'TS' and 'X' in the list below):
Tamiya PS-59 dark metallic blue
Tamiya PS-19 camel yellow
Tamiya PS-1 white or PS-5 black (backing coat) depending on the blue chosen.
PS- 58 pearl clear (option)
Tamiya TS-14 gloss black
Tamiya TS-29 semi-gloss black
TS-30 Silver (or X-11)
Tamiya plastic primer - (for use with the TS paint)
Display body:
The display body is made of high-impact polystyrene (HIPS) that has
been produced in the colours of the real RB7. As such, it can be assembled without painting. However, for an expert finish, you may choose to paint your display body.
If you choose to do this, ensure that you use a paint that is suitable for use with HIPS.
The paint shade references are not advised within the magazine for the display body. However, you can consider using those on the following list:
Tamiya TS-89 pearl blue or TS-53 deep metallic blue, (in my view the TS-53 is the closer shade to the blue of the front and rear wings).
Tamiya TS-47 chrome yellow
Tamiya TS-14 gloss black
Tamiya TS-29 semi-gloss black
TS-30 silver (or X-11)
Tamiya plastic primer
(For the blue of the display body, I will be using TS-53 deep metallic blue in conjunction with TS-65 clear pearl and a clear top coat.
If you are planning to use Tamiya TS-13 clear gloss for clear coating the display body - See the cautionary note at post #5 regarding it's suitability over decals etc.
It's safer to use an 'aqueous' clear coat such as Tamiya X-22 clear or 'Mr Hobby' B-501 clear gloss.
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/05/2013 Posts: 17 Points: 41 Location: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
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Hi Tomick
Is the racing Body received as a blank canvas that requires painting
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 Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/07/2011 Posts: 42 Points: 126 Location: Colchester, Essex, UK
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Hey Mr T What do you mean by "wet on wet"? I'm confused!  Cheers! Done: McLaren MP4/23
Started: Red Bull RB7 & Hachette 1/16 Tiger I Tank
Awaiting Construction: DeAg 1/12 Spitfire & RMS Titanic (Hachette)
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Ford62 wrote:Hi Tomick
Is the racing Body received as a blank canvas that requires painting Correct, the racing body is clear lexan that you paint from the inside.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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roywhitworth wrote:Hey Mr T What do you mean by "wet on wet"? I'm confused! Cheers! There are many reports that applying Tamiya TS-13 over decals can 'burn’ decals or create what looks like crazing or cracking in the paint surface, days, weeks or months down the line. Though many have used it without problem.
TS-13 dries at a different rate than their colour sprays and is what causes the problem and also how heavy it is appplied, and should be applied within 15 mins of the colour coat (wet on wet) or after 30 days. A safer alternative would be to airbrush Tamiya X-22 clear as it is aqueous based.
We also have to consider that we have 3 different tyes of decal on the RB7, pre-printed, waterslide and self-adhesive vinyl, where a type of clear may attack one decal but not the other. Therefore an 'aqueous' clear coat is probably the safest route, such as Mr Hobby B501 which is what we recomended for the MP4/23.
As with all clears, you should always test, as the aerosol solvent can destroy decals or damage paint.
Clear coating is something that the novice needs to practice before tackling a pride and joy.
You may find this Tamiya paint info link useful..
http://www.tamiyausa.com...y_id=8&type=article
Note that a lexan bodyshell reamer and lexan curved scissors will be required to complete the racing body.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 540 Points: 1,630 Location: England
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I am surprised that the Lexan is not even pre cut. If you don't have a reamer a marker pen and drill work just as well. Finished 3D Printer, RB7, Hummer, Skyrider drone & Combat tank collection http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/10/2013 Posts: 125 Points: 380 Location: brisbane (Australia)
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Tomick wrote:The following aerosol colours are advised within the instructions, (note that the blue and yellow of the the PS and TS paint range, are not the same shade as each other):
Racing Body:
The racing body is made of polycarbonate lexan. You must use a paint specifically suited to this purpose, though some components which are added to the racing body are high impact polystyrene (HIPS), such as the TV camera, where a paint suited to HIPS should be used, (noted as TS and X in the list below):
Tamiya PS-59 dark metallic blue
Tamiya PS-19 camel yellow
Tamiya PS-1 white (backing colour)
Tamiya TS-14 gloss black
Tamiya TS-29 semi-gloss black
TS-30 Silver (or X-11)
Tamiya plastic primer - (for use with the TS paint)
Display body:
The display body is made of high-impact polystyrene (HIPS) that has
been produced in the colours of the real RB7. As such, it can be assembled without painting. However, for an expert finish, you may choose to paint your display body.
If you choose to do this, ensure that you use a paint that is suitable for use with HIPS.
The paint shade references are not advised within the magazine for the display body. However, you can consider using those on the following list:
Tamiya TS-89 pearl blue - (Or TS-53 deep metallic blue in conjunction with TS-65 clear pearl).
Tamiya TS-47 chrome yellow
Tamiya TS-14 gloss black
Tamiya TS-29 semi-gloss black
TS-30 silver (or X-11)
Tamiya plastic primer
If you are going to use Tamiya TS-13 clear gloss for clear coating the display body - See the cautionary note at post #5 regarding it's suitability over decals and wet-on-wet etc..
went into hobbyrama at stafford to check on paints and it looks like that ts-51 (racing blue) would be a better color than ts-89 and ts-53 with ts-69 from what ts-51 has shown me is that it's slightly darker than ts-89 and not as flat looking as ts-53...please tell me your thoughts on this ??? Supaheli
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Its down to personal choice, the list is only a guideline
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/10/2013 Posts: 125 Points: 380 Location: brisbane (Australia)
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Model master gts blue pearl ??? Supaheli
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Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/01/2011 Posts: 593 Points: 1,708 Location: Canberra, Australia
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I won't have the racing body to worry about as mine is heading to be static. That is, if the suppliers ever get off their backside and deliver the missing issues to the newsagent I go to!!!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/10/2013 Posts: 125 Points: 380 Location: brisbane (Australia)
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skyfire wrote:I won't have the racing body to worry about as mine is heading to be static. That is, if the suppliers ever get off their backside and deliver the missing issues to the newsagent I go to!!! curious...what do mean by this ? Supaheli
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/01/2011 Posts: 593 Points: 1,708 Location: Canberra, Australia
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It will sit on a shelf and not go anywhere. Don't think I will even bother building the engine for it.
As to the missing magazines, whoever the supplier of partwork magazines to newsagents is, they stopped delivery of the issues of the RB7 to the newsagent I was buying them from, as a result, I am now missing 10 issues.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 540 Points: 1,630 Location: England
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I just have to say I recently picked up a schumacher body reamer and highly recommend one to save getting the drill out. Finished 3D Printer, RB7, Hummer, Skyrider drone & Combat tank collection http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Saves the drill bit skating across the surface and does not leave a burr on the inside, and also gives the optionto open out the hole in small increments.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 540 Points: 1,630 Location: England
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It also saves worrying about drill bit sizes as you can make the hole as big as you want. Handy as I think I have about 3 different body post sizes between my models. Finished 3D Printer, RB7, Hummer, Skyrider drone & Combat tank collection http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/10/2013 Posts: 125 Points: 380 Location: brisbane (Australia)
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Im a little bit confused...please explain to me why there are ts sprays in with ps sprays I thought it was ps sprays only for the racing shell Supaheli
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Post #1 says... "some components which are added to the racing body are high impact polystyrene (HIPS), such as the TV camera, where a paint suited to HIPS should be used, (noted as TS and X in the list below)"
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 540 Points: 1,630 Location: England
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I have just ordered my paint for the racing body. Only needed to get the blue and yellow spray as I already had everything else in my paint collection. Not bothered about the display body so it will just stay as is. Its a shame the racing body comes after all the display stuff. Finished 3D Printer, RB7, Hummer, Skyrider drone & Combat tank collection http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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The PS-59 dark mettalic blue is best backed with black as white makes the blue appear a lighter shade
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 540 Points: 1,630 Location: England
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That's good as I have some black spare from overcoating other bodyshells. Finished 3D Printer, RB7, Hummer, Skyrider drone & Combat tank collection http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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