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 Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/10/2010 Posts: 678 Points: 2,094 Location: Dorset
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Well after some problems with getting the fuel and after run oil (My local model shop said it was on order for two weeks) I have got the Hummer engine running, well Roaring would be a better description. I need to slow it down or else it will be in the next county before I know it As this is my first RC car of any description any help advise would be welcome one thing I have noticed is that the idle adjustment screw it obstructed by the exhaust Is this going to a case of trial and minor adjustment ???????? Current Build:-
[color=blue]Stash Avro Lancaster (Full Kit)plus some extra issues I picked up at a good price
[color=blue]Built:- Norman Catapult by Mantua,Roman Catapult by Mantua,HMS Victory,HMS Victory XSection,Focker DB1,Bismark,English Carronade Titanic Lifeboat,American Civil War Gatling,Hummer,Sopwith Camel F1,Occre Jupiter ,OcCre Wagon, Latina Arab Dhow, Eaglemass Orrery OcCre Rogers 119 [color=red][color=red]RB7,OcCre Missippi River Boat, Model Airways Fokker DR1
OcCre London L>C>C 106 Ugears Scrambler, Ugears Hexapod Explorer UGears Off-Road Vehicle
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Good to hear your fired up. The Kyosho engine info in this link provides all you need to know about setting and tuning the engine
http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=6557
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 Rank: Super-Elite     Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Top job - I get it fires up with some awesome power. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Some further guidance I've put together which also applies to the RB7 engine:
Can't start the engine.
Firstly, the engine when new is very tight and needs to be "run in".
If you are stuglig getting it started you can heat up the top of the engine using a hair dryer, this loosens the stiffness of a new engine and helps get it started.
Point the hair dryer at the top of the engine for a good 10 minutes or so till its nice and warm, but be mindful of directig the heat away from the fuel tank/lines.
Prime the engine.
You need to prime the engine in order to start it. To do this you can place your finger over the exhaust outlet and pull on the pull starter (without the glow starter in place) untill you see the fuel going along the fuel pipe towards the carburettor. Once it reaches the carb, stop pulling.
Engine stalls all the time.
This is most likely due to the carburettor being set overly rich for break in. If you find its almost impossible to keep it runing, adjust the idle screw clockwise to raise the idle speed.
However, only slightly adjust the LSN also (low speed needle) 1/8th of a turn max only!
Engine stalls when I apply the brake.
This is when your idle needle is set too low, when you brake it closes the carb and stops fuel getting through properly.
Take your air filter off and look down the hole, now adjust the idle screw (clockwise) until there is a 1mm gap. Your throttle trim may also need adjusting as the it may be set too high. Turn the trim knob on your controller so that it doesn't open the carb.
Good practices for your engine.
After the days running, its good practice to use an 'After Run' oil to keep your engine in good condition. Its not essential but it is recommended. It keeps any moisture out of the engine and protects the internals. Simply put a few drops in the glow plug hole after each days session, then turn the engine over a couple of times with the pullstart. You should also remove any remaining fuel from the tank.
Its also recommended that when you let your engine cool down (ie after every tank during break in) that you should move the the piston to BDC (Bottom dead centre), this enables the liner and piston to cool without warping the liner.
Take the glow plug out and you should be able to see the piston down the hole, turn the flywheel until you see the piston at its lowest point, this is BDC. Mark the flywheel with a marker pen so next time you don't need to take the glow plug out. Just turn the flywheel round to the same point.
Stopping the engine.
There are a number of ways to stop the engine:
1. Pinch the fuel line - Stops the engine by starving it of fuel.
2. Seal the Exhaust outlet - This chokes the engine to a stop, (use a rag to make the seal).
3. Blocking the carb air intake - Stops air entering the carburettor.
The first two methods are the most common, as the air filter being in place will prevent the third option.
General info:
Switch on - Always switch on the radio hand set first, then switch on the model, and to switch off, switch off the model first then the handset.
Careful 'break in' of the engine will extend its life by up to 20%. For the first 2/3 tanks of fuel, be gentle on the throttle and run the model in a figure of 8 pattern, but do not apply full throttle during this period, and let the engine cool between runs.
Do not run the model without its air filter, this is a sure and fast way of seriously damaging the internals of the engine and reducing its life.
Consider fitting a fuel filter into the fuel line to prevent ingress of debris into the engine via the fuel tank.
Invest in a spare Glow Plug - Type: OS R5 (cold) is the standard plug provided with the GX21 engine.
Getting the best engine performance means choosing the right glow plug, which depends on a number of different factors – the engine type, air–fuel mix, nitro percentage, and air temperature.
The right glow plug will change as ambient conditions change. Keeping a range of glow plugs on hand will help you fine tune glow heat and enjoy maximum performance under all conditions. Generally, hot plugs provide better idle and acceleration than cold plugs. Cold plugs will produce more power but may idle more roughly and make it harder to tune the engine.
Glow plug info: http://www.osengines.com/glowplugs/
Use a nitro fuel with a nitromethane content of 15-25%
When storing the model, always remove the batteries from the radio set and model.
Fuel Health and Safety: Always follow fuel manufacturer guidelines. Nitro fuel is toxic by inhalation, in contact with skin and also poisonous if swallowed. Keep fuel containers out of reach of children at all times!
Nitro fuel is highly flammable, therefore keep the fuel away from sources of ignition - No smoking and store it within a tightly sealed secure container, in a well ventilated area and maintain a low temperature.
The Methanol content of nitro fuel is 'hygroscopic', and therefore absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. Therefore avoid leaving the fuel container open for long periods.
Fuel deposits that remain within the engine after the days running or during storage can cause internal corrosion. Always empty any remaining fuel from the tank, and treat the engine with 'After Run' oil, which will protect the internals of the engine from corrosion during storage.
Servicing:
General Cleanliness - A clean car is a happy car. Use a large natural-hair bristle brush (from a hardware or paint store) to remove dust/dirt from the chassis and inside of the body. Specific nitro cleaning products are also available.
Differentials - You should check the areas around the diff shafts for grease leaks. If you see a leak, you need to take apart the diff and put more grease in it, and look to sevicing the differential every 20/25 runs to renew the grease.
Gear Mesh - The relationship between the primary drive gear (pinion or clutchbell) and the secondary drive gear (spur gear) is very important. A tight gear mesh will produce friction and cause the engine to work hard and could melt the teeth of the spur gear from the friction. A loose gear mesh may cause the pinion gear to strip the teeth of the spur gear.
Air filter - A clean air filter will allow a constant clean flow of fresh air to flow freely into your engine, boosting engine performance. It will also prolong the life of your engine by reducing the risk of dirt and dust from getting into your engine. More frequent cleaning of the filter is requitred for an off-road model such as the Hummer.
Process: Remove the air filter from the carburettor, then remove the foam element from the filter body.
Rinse the foam filter element from the inside face to the outside face, with nitro fuel or isopropyl alcohol to remove all the debris, (do this in a well ventilated area).
Apply air filter oil to foam filter element. Use your fingers to gently squeeze the foam to disperse the oil throughout the element.
Reinstall the filter element into the filter housing, make sure there are no gaps between the two elements. Then re-attach the air filter body onto the carburettor.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/10/2010 Posts: 678 Points: 2,094 Location: Dorset
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Very comprehensive Mr T Many Thanks The Wife is out all day tomorrow working so I shall have plenty of time to play Current Build:-
[color=blue]Stash Avro Lancaster (Full Kit)plus some extra issues I picked up at a good price
[color=blue]Built:- Norman Catapult by Mantua,Roman Catapult by Mantua,HMS Victory,HMS Victory XSection,Focker DB1,Bismark,English Carronade Titanic Lifeboat,American Civil War Gatling,Hummer,Sopwith Camel F1,Occre Jupiter ,OcCre Wagon, Latina Arab Dhow, Eaglemass Orrery OcCre Rogers 119 [color=red][color=red]RB7,OcCre Missippi River Boat, Model Airways Fokker DR1
OcCre London L>C>C 106 Ugears Scrambler, Ugears Hexapod Explorer UGears Off-Road Vehicle
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Have fun 
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