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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/07/2014 Posts: 204 Points: 578 Location: Alabama, USA
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Hi Steve, The detail your doing is just phenomenal. I'm really enjoying watching this build.  Building - DeAgostini HMS Victory, McLaren MP4-23, Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa, Harley Davidson Fat Boy, Lamborghini Countach
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Great stuff Stevie, looking very realistic and I can't wait to see the finished diorama, it's going to be so cool!! Love the way you've done the bent propeller blades - did you just gently heat them in a warm oven before bending them??  
Kev 
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 Rank: Elite       Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Great stuff Steve and look forward to seeing more on this one. Spence
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2011 Posts: 434 Points: 1,309 Location: milton keynes
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Fantastic stuff Steve & a great idea really enjoying this one come together regards Dan Built - MP4/23, Zero, Deagostini Falcon, Model Airways 1903 Wright Flyer, Senna Mp4/4.
Working - Mclaren M23 1/8th scale to complement the Deagostini MP4/23 & Mp4/4
on the bench, Model Airways Sopwith Camel.
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Stevie, this just gets better and better with every post.... fabulous work as usual.... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Thanks for looking in and all the nice comments guys Well I have now decided Id like to do a little more weathering on this to add some fun to the build so I am now going for the aircraft to look like it's been in the water for a little while. I am going to look into algae and salt streaking at a later stage but that will be on the complete aircraft assembly. For this update I have used maskol by humbrol for the canopy masking. It goes on well, a blob in the center of the panel then push to the frames with a cocktail stick, came off ok too which is the main thing There are more weathering layers to spray over but the canopy will be included in these later washes and filters. As you can see I sprayed a base of aluminium first to aid in the chipping which in this instance is the salt method. Dont normally like this method but the effect it causes is perfect for my dio. The decals will be manually chipped later by simply scraping back to the Aluminiun layer. The ring marks are a result of over-spraying with an alcohol thinned paint reacting with the salt, they will disappear after a clear cote. Lots more to come  Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2011 Posts: 434 Points: 1,309 Location: milton keynes
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SWEET Job Nem keep the updates coming Regards dan Built - MP4/23, Zero, Deagostini Falcon, Model Airways 1903 Wright Flyer, Senna Mp4/4.
Working - Mclaren M23 1/8th scale to complement the Deagostini MP4/23 & Mp4/4
on the bench, Model Airways Sopwith Camel.
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More fabulous work Stevie, very impressive..... Regards Alan
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Lovely work Stevie! That salt technique works a treat, I'll have to look that one up! This is going to look great in the water effects, well done indeed! Oh, and Merry Christmas too! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Thanks for looking guys, left this alone over xmas but just a quick update of whats been done. Decals applied onto a gloss surface, couple of washes to tone down the effects of the salt chipping, re-chipped the decals. Next up will be to do some sun faded or filter washes and some detailing, especially the ripped wing edges which need some metal drybrushing on the torn bits and inside. Then it's time to try to source a large 300x250 clear acrylic tray. I was hoping to recieve the worlds biggest box of ferrero rocher for xmas but never got it  Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Steve What a brilliant job you are doing with this one. That can metal looks the part for the damaged wings very good idea indeed. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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WOW Steve, She's really moving along & looks fantastic. Brilliant job, love it! Wilfy
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Brilliant work Steve, the ripped apart wings look really authentic
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Thanks guys A couple more pics here after a few very thinned down airbrush layers of brown, sand and buff. There will be some more weathering and detailing when I'm at the point of placing it on the dio - some salt streaks will be needed too. Need some of your opinions on 2 points though - 1. has anyone combined a 1/32 kit with 1/35 scale figures, I have a set of 4 figures for my dio (not saying what they are yet). Obviously the scales are not the same but I'm hoping it wont be noticed. I thought if the plane is flat in the sand and the figures are on a raised part of the beach then it will look fine - it's only a 10% difference anyway... 2. Although you would not see any colour in water this shallow I was thinking of adding a tiny ammount of blue/green transparent pigment to the resin to represent the sea colour...not sure if it will be better left clear though  Any thoughts welcome. Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Fantastic work so far, weathering is spot on! As for the difference in scale between 1:35 and 1:32, it is so minimal you wont notice, especially if the figures are away from the plane. Looking forward to your next update!!!
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Rank: Administration  Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 7,970 Points: 23,099 Location: East midlands
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Hi Steve, Build looking good. As for your questions, If my calculations are correct and I think they are, then the difference on a person 6ft high in the two scales mentioned would be 0.2 of an inch. Now sea colour, Very shallow water I think you would only see the colour of the sand etc underneath. It`s only when you get into deeper water that I think you would get any depth of colour. So at best I think all that would be needed would be a very, very light tint of blue/green. Just my thoughts. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello Steve,
Some very skilful weathering going on here my friend, the model looks fantastic, like it has really been immersed in sea water for a while - an excellent build I must say!!
Regards the intended figures, are you thinking of civilian figures or military, as in US or Japanese soldiers? Personally I think it would look great if you had some US Marines who had just come across the downed Zero after they had successfully captured another Japanese held island? To that end you might like to look at something like those in the link below. Better still they are 1:32 scale, exactly the same as the plane? It looks like there are six figures in the box, two of which look like they are already in fairly casual poses but I believe (may be wrong?) that all figures in the set are poseable with interchangeable limbs? If not then you could always cut and refit the body parts to shape then fill and sand to whatever stance you want? Or you could just buy two boxes and have at least four in suitable poses straight away and just swap the arms and legs over?
I have highlighted the cheapest set I could find but there are other sellers who are offering the same set on that site:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/it...amp;hash=item4630b158aa
As far as painting them goes, you won't find a better guide than the one below:
http://www.ospreypublish...ook.aspx?bookcode=p9956
They do a set of three in their 'The US Army in World War II' series - No.1: "The Pacific", No.2: "The Mediterranean" and No.3: "Northwest Europe".
I have all three on my bookshelf and can honestly recommend them all to you!!
Regards the 'tint' to the water, I agree with Derek, you probably wouldn't see any right at the waters' edge but bear in mind that even going back just six feet (on a real beach) then you would start to get some kind of tint, which will get progressively darker the deeper and further out you go? Also bear in mind that whatever you choose to do, tint or no tint, water is supposed to be wet and you would need to make the colour of the sand a little darker right at the point where it meets the water, to suggest waterlogged sand?
Hope that helps Steve, all the best,
Kev
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Thanks for all the input guys, Firstly I do have figures already which I will be using, they are US marines WW2 Jungle, which technically is the Pacific war - http://www.amazon.co.uk/..._aui_detailpage_o00_s00
As you can see, very casual poses which is what I was after. Must admit I never even considered the 1/32 figure range, forgot they existed! As for the water, I know clear is correct but I was unsure to whether I would stray from the realistic in favour of a prettier looking dio I'm going for the clear water now! Working on some palm trees too at this very moment Steve
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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I have knocked together the basic diorama base, I angled a piece of plywood to get the slope of the beach and also to reduce the ammount of plaster and sand required. Also managed to get the palms done, I have 3 palm plants and a tree. These were done by cutting out the leaf shape from printer paper (x60 ), glueing it to a wire and the cutting the edges with scissors to get the frayed leaf effect. I put the 60 separate leaves into 3 piles and airbrushed a different shade of green for each pile. Once placed together about 15 per tree there is a subtle shade difference in all the leaves. The trees are obviously not in place yet so not sure of the exact layout at this moment. Still have to put some air dry clay over the tape for the trunks and add some leaf highlights and poss a satin finish... Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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