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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Build your own 3D printer - idbox 3D printer
https://www.youtube.com/...fg&feature=youtu.be
Straight from science fiction to your home! Turn an idea in your head or on paper into an object you can hold in your hand with this amazing 3D printer, the idbox.
The idbox is a lightweight and compact machine that is easy to work with, and has a fast modelling speed.
Learn how to use the software to create 3D shapes from the basics. First, become familiar with the software, then proceed to new features little by little. By the time the series is complete, you will know all about the 3D software needed to use your idbox 3D printer. The collection also gives you a taster of the 3D modelling programs that are available. Other programs can be downloaded from a dedicated site.
Its a great project for people looking to get an intimate knowledge of the technology or simply a novel hobby. Schools are also getting geared up for "rapid prototyping" technology as a new teaching tool..
https://www.gov.uk/gover...printers_in_schools.pdf
It's perhaps the greatest model kit ever, in that when complete you can print out components to create other models!
Specifications:
Maximum build volume: 150mm x 130mm x 100mm (6"x5"x4")
Print speed: 100mm per second
Layer thickness: 0.10mm
Stacking pitch: 0.1mm
Filament type: Can use 1.75mm PLA and ABS filament types.
0.4mm nozzle: designed to help prevent possibility of clog which some units can suffer from.
idbox footprint: 250mm x 250mm x 275mm
Weight: 5kg
Software compatible with: Windows 10, Mac OS X and USB 2.
Includes CAD and 3DCG modelling software with an instructional program built-in for first time users to design your own 3D data as well as having access to many varieties of built-in templates you can choose from to print out.
To ensure safe use for the 3D print novice, a heated bed is not part of the machine spec, though a special 'BuildTak' sheet is included in the collection, which provides improved adhesion and allows the printer to print PLA without rafts. It also works with ABS filament even without a heated bed. Two sample rolls of filament are provided with the collection.
https://www.youtube.com/...AE&feature=youtu.be
55 build stages in total:
Stages 1-11 Fit together the acrylic panels, and assemble the interior of the molding table.
Stages 12-24 Assemble the XY gantry responsible for the movement of the Y-axis.
Stages 25-29 Fit the nozzle, attach the cooling fan and attach the tubing.
Stages 30-41 Install the motor and limit switch of the X-axis and Y-axis, and install the microcomputer board that is the brain of the printer.
Stages 42-55 Install the modelling table, perform the final finish,. and learn about its fine adjustment and maintenance along the way.
Webpage: http://www.model-space.c...ld-your-3d-printer.html
The official video build an be found here
https://www.youtube.com/...pgs3c3xTY3YJ2tAfnW9RtZ9
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Pack 1 contains Stages 1-3
The magazine tutorial content of pack 1, contains information on how to start using AUTODESK 123D and see how simple it is to begin designing in 3D. In this tutorial you create a Snowman while learning how to manipulate objects on screen.
Stage 1 - Contains the front panel, reinforcing plates, table base (lower section), M3 truss head screws (12mm), M3 washers and M3 nuts. There is one spare washer and one spare nut supplied with the parts for this stage.
Start by peeling off the protective brown paper and transparent film from the lower section of the table base and the two reinforcing plates. Do this slowly to avoid damaging the surfaces.
Leave the protective layers on the front panel for now as this is not needed in the Stage 1 assembly.
Remember always to handle the acrylic parts carefully to avoid scratching them.
Take the two reinforcing plates, and place an M3 nut into each of the slots. The nuts fit sideways into the reinforcing plates, each nut must be put into its slot so that its sides are parallel with the sides of the slot.
Do not use excessive force to get the nuts into the slots. If a nut is hard to fit in to one side of the slot, try doing it from the other side.
You might find that the nuts fall out when you move the plates. If this hinders the construction process you can, if you wish, secure the nuts in position in the plates with a small amount of white wood glue. You only need only a small amount of glue, (white wood glue becomes transparent when dry, the look of your printer will be unaffected). Use a toothpick to apply the glue, you only need just enough so that when the glue has set the nut is held in place. Ensure that the nuts are set central within the reinforcing plate.
Position the table base so that the groove is at the top right as shown. Take the reinforcing plates (with the nuts inserted) and fit the tabs of the plates into the grooves in the table base.
Hold the reinforcing plates in position and turn the table base over. Do this carefully so the nuts do not fall out. (The groove in the base should now be at the top left).
Before inserting the screws into the screwholes, put a washer on each of the six screws. Fit the screws with their washers into the screwholes in the table base and tighten each one loosely. Then continue to tighten the screws in turn little by little. Note - If the screws are overtightened the acrylic may crack!
This completes Stage 1. Carefully store the unused front panel for use later; leave its protective coverings intact.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 2 - Contains the left side panel, reinforcing plates, table base (upper section), small metal plate, springs, M3 countersunk screws (25mm), M3 washers, M3 nuts, knurled nuts and M3 truss head screws (12mm).
Retrieve the lower table base with the two reinforcing plates attached that you assembled at Stage 1.
Peel the brown protective paper and the transparent protective film off both of the reinforcing plates supplied with Stage 2. Leave the protective layers on the left side panel for now as this is not needed in the Stage 2 assembly.
As before, place an M3 nut into each of the eight slots of the reinforcing two plates provided with this stage, and again set the nuts in place wit white wood glue if needed.
Take the reinforcing plates (with the nuts inserted) and fit the tabs of the plates into the grooves in the previously assembled table base. Again, hold the reinforcing plates in position with your fingers and turn the table base over. Do this carefully so the nuts do not fall out. (The groove in the base should now be at the top left).
Before inserting the eight 12mm M3 truss head screws into their screwholes, put a washer on each screw. Then fit them into the screwholes in the table base and tighten each one loosely (see box, right). Then continue to tighten the screws in turn little by little. If the screws are overtightened the acrylic might crack.
Now put a washer on the 10mm M3 truss head screw and then put the screw through the hole in the small metal plate. Make sure you use the 10mm screw and not one of the 12mm screws. Then fit an M3 nut into the indicated slot in the table base, then insert the 10mm truss head screw (with its washer and metal plate) into the nut. Holding the nut and screw if necessary, carefully tighten the screw into the nut. The longer part of the plate should protrude from the base and the sides of the plate must be parallel with the base.
Next, you will need the table base’s upper section. It has four screw holes and on the base’s upper surface these countersink holes on one side. Insert a 25mm countersunk screw into each of the four holes and use a screwdriver, screw each screw into the upper table base until it is all the way in. Do not overtighten the screws.
Now turn the base over and put a washer then a spring and then another washer on the shaft of each screw.
Pick up the lower table base and hold it so that the small metal plate is at the top right. Position the lower base so the four screws in the upper base fit through the predrilled holes in the lower table base. Screw the knurled nuts onto the screws by hand. Screw each one down by the same amount, so that each spring is compressed by approximately 2mm.
This completes this stage, carefully store the unused left side panel safely for later use; leave its protective coverings intact.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 3 - Contains the right side panel, limit switch cable, limit switch, spacers, M3 truss head screws (14mm), M3 washers and M3 nuts.
The limit switch is a precision part, so take care when handling it. Do not let it get wet, and do not touch any of the components with your bare hands. When you handle the switch, hold it by the circuit board only. Keep it away from dust, heat, high humidity and static electricity.
Carefully peel the protective layers off both sides of the right side panel. Position the right side panel as shown, with the large circular hole on the left and the rectangular holes at the bottom, the screw holes for attaching the limit switch should be at the top to the right of centre.
Put a 14mm truss head screw through each of the holes in the limit switch circuit board. Turn the limit switch over and holding the screws in place with your fingers, put a spacer on the shaft of each screw. Insert the screws into their mounting holes in the side panel holding the limit switch so that its three metal pins point in the direction shown. Hold the heads of the truss screws with your fingers so they do not fall out and turn the panel so you can see the shafts of the screws, then put a washer onto each of the screw shafts. Holding the screws in place with your fingers, screw a nut onto each of the screws using your fingers. Now turn the panel round and loosely tighten the screws with a screwdriver, holding the nuts steady with your fingers. Final tightening of the screws will be performed later.
This completes this stage. The Y-axis limit switch has been attached to the right side panel. Keep this assembly in a secure place until it is needed again. The limit switch cable will be needed later so store it somewhere safe.
This completes Pack 1.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Pack 2 - Conntains Stages 4-7
Stage 4 - Contains the bottom panel, a large bracket plate, small bracket plates, M3 truss head screw (14mm), M3 washers and M3 nuts.
This time in the "Modelling" content of the magazine, you build on your knowledge of how to move objects in a 3D workspace and learn how to start combining them with the Snap command, create new shapes with the Loft command and duplicate objects using the Mirror command. You also explore the Subtract, Merge and Fillet commands, and learn how to create a toy plane in 3D.
Start this build session by peeling off the brown protective layers off the acrylic plates used in this stage: the bottom panel, the large bracket plate and the two small bracket plates. As usual, take care when handling the acrylic pieces so as not to scratch them.
Lay the two small bracket plates flat and put an M3 nut into each of the slots. Do not force the nuts in and remember to have the sides of each nut parallel with the sides of the slot. If a nut is hard to fit in to one side of the slot, try doing it from the other side.
The two tabs on the upper sides of the small bracket plates fit into the pairs of slots on either side of the large bracket plate. When you fit the tabs of the small plates into the slots in the large plate, make sure that the single tabs on the lower side of each small plate are on the same side. If you are concerned that the nuts might drop out while assembling the bracket, use some white wood glue to hold them in position as before.
Put an M3 washer onto each of the four 14mm M3 truss head screws. Insert screws into the screwholes in the large bracket plate as shown above and for now tighten each one only loosely. These will be tightened fully later.
Now turn the bracket over so that it is resting on the large bracket plate with the lower tabs of the small bracket plates facing away from you. Hold the bottom panel so that the four circular holes are on the right and the cut out is at the front and lower it onto the bracket, fitting the two tabs on the bracket into the slots by the rectangles. Supporting the bottom panel with one hand, insert the 14mm M3 truss head screws (with washers) into their screw holes in the bottom panel and tighten them loosely into the nuts in the brackets using a screwdriver.
Turn the panel over and tighten the two bracket screws in turn a little at a time. Turn the panel and tighten the remaining two screws in the same way.
The bracket for the Z-axis motor is now assembled and attached to the bottom panel. Store the assembly safely until it is needed again.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 5 - Contains the back panel, cooling fan, fan guard, M3 truss head screws (25mm), M3 washers and M3 nuts.
In this stage, you install a cooling fan on the back panel of the idbox. Make sure you install the fan guard so that its metal rings are flush against the rear panel, and ensure the fan is attached so that its cable emerges at the correct place.
Peel the protective layers off the back panel. As usual, take care when handling acrylic so as not to scratch its surface.
Orient the back panel so that the large circular cut-out is on the left, and the rectangular cut-out is at the bottom right.
Place the fan guard over the large circular cut-out, so that the bulge of the guard is facing outward and the four rings are over the screw holes. Holding the guard in position, lift the panel up slightly so you can put a 25mm truss head screw through each of the rings and its corresponding screw hole. Hold the screws and guard in place. Lift up the back panel so it is resting on its edge, and the shafts of the screws are protruding through the panel,. Now take the cooling fan, make sure the side of the fan with the flattened surface faces the panel (this make a seal with the panel) and slot the four screw holes in the fan over the screws.
The cable should be at the bottom right. Holding the fan in place, put a washer over each of the screws, then fit an M3 nut onto each of the screws. Turn the panel over and, holding the nuts with one hand, tighten the screws in the tightening order shown in the instructions.
The cooling fan is now fitted to the rear panel of your idbox printer. When viewed as shown in the photo above, the cable is at the upper right of the fan. Keep the panel safely for the next stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 6 - Contains the noise filter, M3 countersunk screws 15mm, M3 washers and M3 nuts.
Its time to add the noise filter. This acts as the printer’s power inlet and filters out electromagnetic noise, preventing it both from entering and leaving the printer. If you look at the printer from the back, it is located on the lower right of the rear panel.
Take the rear panel that you installed the cooling fan onto in the previous stage. Hold the rear panel so that the fan is at the bottom left. The noise filter fits into the rectangular hole in the bottom right corner, with its central socket pin uppermost. Put a 15mm M3 countersunk screw into each of the screw holes in the filter, hold the screws in place and turn the panel over, and put an M3 washer over each of the screws, then thread an M3 nut onto each of the screws.
Turn the panel over again and tighten the screws while you hold the nuts steady with your fingers. Tighten each in turn – a little at a time – but not overtighten to avoid damaging the panel.
The noise filter is now attached to the rear panel. Keep the panel safe for the next stage, when you will install the X-axis limit switch.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 7 - Contains a limit switch, spacers, M3 truss head screws (14mm), M3 washers and M3 nuts.
In this stage, the procedure is similar to Stage 3, in which the Y-axis limit switch was attached. Remember that the switch is a precision part, so take care when handling it. Do not let it get wet, and do not touch any of the components with your bare hands. When you handle the switch, hold it by the circuit board only. Keep it away from dust, heat, high humidity and static electricity.
If you hold the rear panel so the noise filter is at the bottom left and the cooling fan is at the bottom right, the screw holes for the limit switch can be found at the top left of the rear panel.
Insert a 14mm truss head screw into each of the screw holes in the limit switch, turn the limit switch around, and, holding the screws in position with your fingers, place a spacer on each of the screws. Put the screws through the screw holes (ringed in red) on the back panel. Make sure that the metal pins of the limit switch are pointing down. Hold the screws in place and turn the panel over, put a washer on each of the screws then fit an M3 nut onto each of the screws, and tighten with your fingers. Turn the panel over again and, for now, tighten the screws loosely with a screwdriver, just enough to hold the switch securely in place. They will be tightened fully at a later stage.
The rear panel now has three components attached to it – the cooling fan, the noise filter, and the X-axis limit switch. Carefully store the back panel somewhere safe.
This completes the assembly of Pack 2.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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