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 Rank: Vice-Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Well, first time working with epoxy and brass, and I made an awful mess. My smokebox is all covered with half-dry epoxy now. How to fix it? Will it work if I wait for it to fully cure, then sand it with several grits of sandpaper, then polish? Or maybe some epoxy remover will help? I've seen some "BGA epoxy remover" on eBay - can it do the trick? Thanks  Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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I had the same problem and I waited for the epoxy to dry and then sanded it off.If you are painting the train you will need to sand it anyway.
my train is finished.I have sanded it, degreased it and will be painting it in the next few days.
Carl
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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The problem is I wanted to leave it in brass... Ok, I see how well I can sand it and polish. Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 You mat be lucky if you have not degreased the parts. The protective film will still be present so some careful flexing may dislodge the larger blobs of epoxy with out needing to sand . To polish the brass back up try using Micromesh as its known today but its realy good old fashioned emery paper, i have added a link to flee-bay to give you an idea below. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sc...+polishing&_sacat=0
One last point to remember go easy on the polishing as some parts are only brass plated so going at it to strongly will remove the brass plating. Regards Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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I agree with Andy if its the parts i think it is they flex and you may be able to break most of it free and prise of the rest. I would do everything you can before you sand it, that should be a last resort if you want the brass finish. If you change your mind and decide to paint it there is no real need to sand the surfaces. degrees with whit vinegar or specialist degreaser and then use a metal primer, that will be enough for the paint to key to. Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Thank you guys, I'll try and see if I can flex it away, then will report back. Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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You can sometimes remove epoxy with an acetone soak and then heat with a heat gun, the glue will go sticky again to be scraped off. Freezing also works (not tried this one though) the glue will then go brittle and be broken off, prob the same way as you would get chewing gum off something . A freezer spray would do for this I guess. Steve
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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It's more like smudges and a fingerprint or two guys, not a layer of epoxy. Nothing that can be easily flexed and broken off. Anyway, I'll try the BGA epoxy remover. Who knows, maybe it will help. If it doesn't, I'll try the sanding and polishing route. If that doesn't help, I'll order the parts and start over... Should get the remover tomorrow or the day after. Will post some pictures as well. Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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I had the same issues with smudges and fingerprints.I even found that the brass on the smokebox tarnished very quickly. I tried glue removers and polishing and found the brass layer is very thin and it was very easy to polish through the brass.I degreased my train with a degreasing product but I could still feel imperfections and the surface was not smooth.I tried to get it as smooth as possible because I was going to paint the train brass color with Alclad paint but I just couldn't get it smooth enough.So I decided to paint it black. I will be starting to paint the tender tonight with automotive paint. I will post my results.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered, Official Builds Joined: 10/02/2012 Posts: 475 Points: 1,237
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Paul, you can get at a lot of it my using acetone, soaked into a rag or paper towel, then covered with a layer of plastic to keep the evaporation down. It works as charm! Tired, Old, and Cranky!
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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So I painted the tender with flat black epoxy primer and it has adhered very well and you cant see any of the sanding spots. The epoxy primer has a rough texture to it which actually looks nice.I am debating whether to spray the satin black paint over the primer or not.I am thinking of maybe leaving the lower part of the train flat and then just spraying the parts above the walkways and wheels trucks in the satin black.
I really messed up the cab.it was all together apart from the roof and as I tried to fit the roof it all fell apart.I have it back together with superglue and now I plan on coating the inside seams with epoxy for strength, but I will need to put some automotive filler to cover the gaps where the fit is not very good. Since the cab is a focal point I want it to look as clean as possible.
I left the cab off until I have detail painted the back of the boiler and did not attach the skylight because you need to access two holes to attach the cab to the boiler and these are blocked by the skylight.
If you follow to build guide you will find that there are parts to add after you have painted so either you will have to hand paint these or read the whole of book 12 to make sure you have attached everything before you start painting.Even then you cannot attach the front coupler until you have painted because it secures the upper body to the running gear.
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Yes the cab is very delicate. i am going to go back and solder mine jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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I thought about soldering it, but it would be tough to hold everything together whilst soldering.I have a resistance soldering unit and I will probably try that if my epoxy fails.I am going to try JB weld metal epoxy and use it on the inside of the cab. The problem I am finding is the roof seems to be slightly too wide for the cab so it puts the cab walls under pressure if you slide it into the grooves it is supposed to fit in.
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