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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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ITS HERE!!!!!
Pictures will follow tonight :)
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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Mint condition, one or two bits came of the sprue over time but complete! Perfect 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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Sorry for no updates, here a just a few box contents, I won't be starting this until the mp4 23 is done.   70xxp.jpg.html]  [/URL]  sgf1b.jpg.html]  [/URL]
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 She looks the bizz and will look forward to your diary when you start it  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Elite       Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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It's a stunning kit Mark and one that will keep you busy. Take your time on her as its one that will need some attention for certain parts. I removed the chrome from my parts with a good soaking in household bleach but only do that if your going to re chrome the parts with Alclads Spencer
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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The kit certainly looks in remarkably good condition for its' age Mark and the decal sheets look mint, though you'll not need those red ones if you're going to spray it in MP/4 red? You're very lucky to find one in such good condition.
Well done and good luck with the build when you start, I for one will be watching!! 
Kev
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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Thanks guys, I'm very glad I have got this forum for help and advice!
I'm thinking of paying a mate of mine who owns a bodyshop to spray the car body shelll as I only feel confident in doing engine parts and suspension etc, what do you guys think?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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Also Spence I'm insure what I will be doing with the chrome, I will definitely be doing something with it, I may even just dirty it up slightly :)
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Hey Mark, fantastic kit I'm very envious...
Give the painting a go yourself, a little care and attention to detail and it will be fine.
I'd love to add one of these to my Mclaren collection. Will be be watching with great interest. Good Luck !!
Malc.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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I agree with Malc, do the paint yourself Mark otherwise it could maybe niggle you in later years that you didn't build it all by yourself and that it could never be "all your own work" so to speak? All you need to do is practice on some plastic sheet or old models until you feel proficient enough to apply the same techniques to your very expensive McLaren? If you don't feel confident enough to respray the kit chrome parts with 'Alclad' as Spencer has suggested then you could always try 'Bare Metal Foil' which is self adhesive and is essentially real metal, so should look far better than the original kit chrome, which to my mind always looks rather too bright and 'plastic' like to be truly realistic no matter how much you try to weather or dull it down?
Kev
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Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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I think I will give it a crack myself, but what kind of paint should I use? People have said solvent paint will just melt it and the red used from zero paints is solvent based, HELP lol
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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Also thanks for tips Kev, I think I will try both foil and alclad in parts :)
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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mark8454 wrote:I think I will give it a crack myself, but what kind of paint should I use? People have said solvent paint will just melt it and the red used from zero paints is solvent based, HELP lol Hello Mark,
'Solvent' is a general term meaning the part of any particular paint that evaporates as the paint dries, it doesn't always mean that it will attack plastic? ANY paint consists of three main ingredients - the 'Pigment' (the material used to create the colour), the 'Vehicle' (sometimes referred to as the 'Binder' since it binds the pigment together to create paint) and lastly the 'Solvent' which is the part of any paint that evaporates to leave a hard layer on whatever is being painted, it's basic purpose being to prevent the paint from hardening in the tin, bottle or tube until it is used whereby it is exposed to the air and then the solvent evaporates away? Oil based paints like enamels use a mildly aggressive solvent such as Turps or White Spirit, which helps it bind to plastic. Water is also a solvent in things like Acrylics though nowadays they are often referred to as 'Aqueous Acrylics' and by the same method of evaporation which occurs in oil based paints, the water in acrylics is gradually lost as the paint is exposed to the air and dries, though it doesn't 'grab' the plastic as well as Turps or White Sprit?
I can see where you are getting confused Mark, in the same way as many people are when they see the word "solvent" but as I've said solvent is a general term referring to a part of the paint that evaporates. It's normally the cellulose based solvents which are the REALLY aggressive types and which can melt plastic, though even these can be used on plastics IF a suitable primer is used first to seal the plastic and to help create a bond with the cellulose paint? If you have a look at the Zero Paints website you will see that it says they ONLY make paints for modellers and provided that you follow their instructions for any particular type of paint you shouldn't have any problems? If in doubt you can always ring them and ask for their advice before buying?
I've tried to explain as best I can Mark but here is a link to another guys' explanation which I think is pretty comprehensive and tells you all you need to know about the wonders and mysteries of paint technology!! :
http://www.craigcentral.com/models/paint.asp
Hope that helps and don't forget what I said in my earlier reply - if you aren't sure just try any paint first on a piece of plastic sheet, a bit of old sprue or even an old (unpainted) model BEFORE using it on your intended model? If it melts the test piece then DON'T use it on your model - it's as simple as that really!?
It's not rocket science - though it IS paint science!!
Kev
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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Thank you very much for clearing that up Kev,
so regardless of the type of plastic (even 40 year old entex plastic lol) a solvent paint will be okay?
would you recommend using zero paints for the primer, white, red and the laquer?
thanks mate :)
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Yes Mark, as I've already said the Zero Paints range is designed purely for models and is therefore suitable for plastics and PROVIDED that you follow the instructions properly, they should be fine? You need to airbrush them on (at 15-40 psi) in several fine mist coats, not in one thick layer and as long as you have applied a sufficient primer coat it'll be fine. When you apply the clearcoat over your decals be sure to apply the first coat in a very thin mist layer and then build it up gradually otherwise a thick application straight off can damage the decals due to a higher concentration of solvent, so a thin layer first is necessary just to cover them enough to protect them from that and then you can gradually apply more until you get the level of gloss that you need?
You seem very worried about the use of these paints Mark but don't be as all of the information that you require is on the Zero Paints website for each type of paint and you can also submit an enquiry to them if you have any questions about suitability? Like I've said, if you're worried then all you need to do is practice first on some scrap plastic or old unpainted kits (or buy a cheap one on ebay to practice on) before painting the McLaren? If you follow the paint instructions and it doesn't affect the practice piece then it shouldn't affect the McLaren - simple as that? This might help:
http://www.zero-paints.c...ro_Basecoat_Paints.html
I suggest that to put your mind at rest, you contact Zero Paints direct, tell them what you want to paint and ask their advice about what paints and clearcoats to use, and how to apply them and then just do as they say and it should be fine:
http://www.zero-paints.com/Contact.html
It might be worth asking if they do a spraying service then if they do, just pay them to spray it for you - just a thought?
Hope that helps?
Kev
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Would be a good idea to test on an inexpensive kit if your that uncertain..
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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Cheers guys, I think its just that I know the kit is so expensive, i dont want to mess it up lol,
I will let you know my progress when I spray it :)
wish me luck and watch this space :)....
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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Imagine the display case...... This is going to look amazing! Here goes..... 
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Joined: 27/06/2014 Posts: 393 Points: 1,104 Location: st austell
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Hi mark she is going to be a big kit just looked on eBay they are going for £1000 would not say no but think the wife would have fun mark. Facebook-model maker
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2013 Posts: 180 Points: 550 Location: East Sussex
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ian2014 wrote:Hi mark she is going to be a big kit just looked on eBay they are going for £1000 would not say no but think the wife would have fun mark. Hahaaa! Thats why I kept mine a secret, Its worth it
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