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San Francisco II build by Arek (first wooden ship build) Options
Gandale
#61 Posted : 13 April 2018 08:41:28

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Hi Arek, planking is always a daunting task when you are faced with it for the first time however, many beginners tend to get an equally important part of building these ships wrong and that is the fairing of the hull in preparation for applying the planks. There are two very useful guides here, the first on the principles of fairing and the other is planking techniques for beginners. Have a look, I'm sure you'll find these very useful....

https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=19140

https://forum.model-spac...aspx?g=posts&t=5669

If you encounter any problems then you know we're here to help....

Regards

Alan
arek
#62 Posted : 14 April 2018 11:06:44

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Hi,

Thanks for the links Alan. I remember reading that before but I couldn't find now. Especially second link have very useful information and is very good written.



Stern part is finished now.

Because I changed shape and size of the windows so many times it turned out that holes for the windows are way to big for my final design.
I have to add layer of 0.5x5 mm to fit my windows before i used 2.0x5mm.



You can see here how wrong I was.Blink



Here is the bow finished witch some sanding done. Dors are dry fitted for now because more sanding will be done after finishing the planking.Also I have to cut hole for the helm, I have this marked but is not visible on the picture.
As you can see I decided to use 45 degree pattern on top part of the bow and I have to say I really like final result.Cool





Have a good weekend everyone!
Arek
Gandale
#63 Posted : 14 April 2018 11:16:40

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Happy to be of help Arek.... I do like the changes you've made, looking great and very well done too....Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
arek
#64 Posted : 21 April 2018 09:25:46

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Hi,

After long time of browsing through other members dairies, and some consultations I finally started planking! I have to say this forum is great resource for information also all help from other members is much appreciated!

When I was looking for some examples of planking in google i came across pictures of bow section San Francisco 1 and I really like the way that plank follows the curve of the hull to the head rails.Drool Drool without splitting between those two parts. Supplied planks are long enough to achieve that with one piece and I want to use that on my model. I just have to find some way to fit falconets at the bow.

Because off all that I started planking slightly higher than instruction says.

When I removed all laser catted parts I stored what left. Using part from the bottom of the bulwark I transferred bottom curve of the bulwark on to my ship and used this as my starting point for planking.



After that I nailed this piece in to the plywood and used as a template for my first plank. Timber was soaked in the hot water for about 20 min then simply using clamps I created curve and left this for couple hours to dry. I don't think I'm going to use this for all my planks as curve probably will change when I progress with planking but it was really helpful for the start especially doing planking for the first time.Cool





Then I marked part that need to be curved around bow , soaked that part again in hot water and using electric plank bender I created desired curve. Have to say that was my first experience with this tool and it was very easy to create curve, just have to take your time when doing this.

Here is first plank ready to fit. By looking at the shadow of the plank you can see upward bend on the stern part and nice curve on the bow.



After all that i fitted first two planks on the top and garboard on the one side.







That was the easiest part, for now my plan is to fit second plank beside the garboard plank then I will start adding planks on the top moving downwards. I will start tapering them slightly an the bow part and see what is going to happened LOL

Any thoughts, suggestions and comments are more than welcome !


magpie1832
#65 Posted : 22 April 2018 21:23:16

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great update, look forward to seeing more progress.

Chris Cool
On the bench

1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.




Tomick
#66 Posted : 22 April 2018 21:28:51

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Coming along well Cool
arek
#67 Posted : 22 April 2018 22:55:56

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magpie1832 wrote:
great update, look forward to seeing more progress.

Chris Cool


Hi Chris,

Thanks for stopping by and kind comment.

I was looking in to your dairy for some inspiration but unfortunately apart from first page all photos are not displaying. Anyway your second photo with information about not to file part on the stern saved me from a loot of trouble.

Thanks.
Arek


arek
#68 Posted : 22 April 2018 22:58:07

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Hi all,

Here where I'am at the moment after whole weekend of soaking, bending, tapering and gluingCool

I start tapering planks on the bow from second row. For all planks "work flow" was as follows:

1 - marking area at the bow that need bend and taper
2 - soaking for approx 20 min in hot water
3 - bending using electric plank bender
4 - tapering using sand paper
5 - pre-drilling holes for nails
6 - fitting

Some of planks need to be soaked again and bend again to achieve better fit.

Here is plank ready to fit



End result. Sides look fine to me but I'm getting small clinker effect on the bow. I'm assuming that all this will be gone after sanding downConfused







Garboard palnk.



I don't like the look of that but by looking at other member dairies that how it should look, again more sanding I assume.Confused



Bussy wekeend...

Thanks all for looking
Kind regards,
Arek
Gandale
#69 Posted : 22 April 2018 23:44:21

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Nice work Arek and nice progress.... As a tip, always ensure the planks sit flush on the frames and let the plank lie the way it wants to around the bow, don't force the plank laterally to get it to sit against the plank already fitted. If the plank wants to climb up over the plank already fitted then that marks the start of your taper... Look forward to your next update.....Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
arek
#70 Posted : 23 April 2018 06:16:34

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Hi Alan,

Thanks for the tip, any help is much appreciated.

Regards,
Arek

arpurchase
#71 Posted : 23 April 2018 07:47:10

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BigGrin Looking good and nice workCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

delboy271155
#72 Posted : 25 April 2018 18:14:21
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Planking looking good.

Cool Cool Cool

Congrats on your "Blue" medal for running a diary along with apologies that it has been overlooked for such a time.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






arek
#73 Posted : 25 April 2018 20:10:00

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delboy271155 wrote:
Planking looking good.

Cool Cool Cool

Congrats on your "Blue" medal for running a diary along with apologies that it has been overlooked for such a time.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)


Thank you very much!Cool Cool

To be honest I always wander what is meaning of all those medalsBlink
At least now I know what I have to do to be awarded blue medal LOL

Regards,

Arek

pemberg
#74 Posted : 25 April 2018 21:09:45

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Nice start with the planking, looking good.

Graeme
arek
#75 Posted : 25 April 2018 21:30:04

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Hi all,

First I decided to add some planks on the keel. Noticed that this required bending plank in two directions.
So... I made template from thin balsa wood, transferred curve on the plywood, soaked my planks and left in the jig for about 24 hours.



Then bend again using electric plank bender and added some taper.



I think it actually work well but if I continue on the kell that curve is going to increase dramatically with next 2 or 3 planks as I move towards the top.Blink



Because of that I decided to add more planks on the top and move towards the keel.
I think that this actually works better for me.Cool
Also shortly I gonna have too add stealer and dropper when I get closer to the keel.
From what I measure at the moment if I keep same thickness of the planks on the bow I gonna need one or two droppers.



So this is the plan for the moment: work from top towards the keel and pray for the best when all the planks meet in some point Confused Blink

Ad finally I have to trim tops of those nails, as my daughter said today my ship look more like hedgehog at the momentLOL LOL

Another busy weekend ahead..

Regards,
Arek





arpurchase
#76 Posted : 26 April 2018 07:30:14

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BigGrin Hi Arek

Looking good so far as for your planking I would add another two strips to the keel rows then start working down towards them. As you progress you may need to add more to the keel or upper hull as you go.

As for the nails once the glue is dry you can simply pull them all out and then apply warm water on to the holes to swell them shut. Any holes that are still there when it comes to the sanding stage just squirt pva into the holes and as you sand the sawdust will mix with the PVA and fill them.

Hope this helps.

AndyCool
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Gandale
#77 Posted : 26 April 2018 09:41:05

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Looks like you have everything under control Arek, looking good...Cool Cool

Regards

Alan

tigerace
#78 Posted : 26 April 2018 14:05:14

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You are doing excellent work on thisBigGrin well doneBigGrin regards PhilCool
COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models

So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!


arek
#79 Posted : 26 April 2018 16:03:12

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arpurchase wrote:

Looking good so far as for your planking I would add another two strips to the keel rows then start working down towards them. As you progress you may need to add more to the keel or upper hull as you go.


I will follow your advice on this. Thanks for the tip.Cool

arpurchase wrote:

As for the nails once the glue is dry you can simply pull them all out and then apply warm water on to the holes to swell them shut. Any holes that are still there when it comes to the sanding stage just squirt pva into the holes and as you sand the sawdust will mix with the PVA and fill them.


This is actually very interesting because I really don't like the idea of having the visible and I was already wandering how to get rid of those holes if I remove nails.

Just one question on this:
Should I thin PVA using water and literary spray? or simply "inject" some in holes just before sanding?

Regards,
Arek
arek
#80 Posted : 26 April 2018 16:03:47

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Gandale wrote:
Looks like you have everything under control Arek, looking good...Cool Cool

Regards

Alan



Hi Alan,

Only looks like that on the pictures LOL LOL LOL

Regards,
Arek
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