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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/03/2010 Posts: 234 Points: 734 Location: Whelpley Hill, Chesham
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Anyone had the same problem or is it just me? The carburettor adjustment screws are hidden behind the exhaust and the only way I have found of getting to them is to release the exhaust mounting screw. Have I got a larger silencer box? Any clues anyone? Alec alemo attached the following image(s): Built: Bluenose, Arab Dhow, HMS Bounty, Hummer H1, D51, Spitfire,E type Jaguar.
In Progress: HMS Victory, , Yamaha YZR-M1
Adapt, improvise, overcome.
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/01/2014 Posts: 67 Points: 197 Location: Essex
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Sorry, not quite there yet, but even the "press release" photos seem to show this is how it is. Slight design fault I guess.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/03/2010 Posts: 234 Points: 734 Location: Whelpley Hill, Chesham
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Still struggling with the carb adjustments, I cannot seem to get it right, I think it is and then I run it and it stalls when I release the throttle. I have followed all the instructions but it's not right. One instruction says fuel needle valve four turns out from shut another says two and a half to three is ideal. I guess I play around until I have some luck. I have had two instances of the throttle servo doing its own thing regardless of the hand control, and switch on sequence has been followed carefully as per instructions. Worried about this, as so far I have been able to stop the engine before any damage occurs. Loved building the thing but not enjoying running it so far. My fault I think because pulled too hard but starter cord has pulled through the pulley. I've done a temp repair but will have to try and get another starter if that is possible. Every one be aware! picture attached. Alec alemo attached the following image(s): Built: Bluenose, Arab Dhow, HMS Bounty, Hummer H1, D51, Spitfire,E type Jaguar.
In Progress: HMS Victory, , Yamaha YZR-M1
Adapt, improvise, overcome.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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This Kyosho engine PDF should help achieve the correct setting's
http://www.kyosho.com/jp...74023_gx21_engine_m.pdf
As for the Servo going out of control, it sounds like you were experiencing radio interference which would cause this, possibly from another user on the same frequency in the same locality or even a taxi band signal. Unfortunately 27Mhz radio's can be prone to radio inteference as its the basic band for surface models and the most wide spread. Also check the power of the transmitter and receiver batteries.
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 540 Points: 1,630 Location: England
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Sorry I keep forgetting to check my Hummer but I am pretty sure there was nothing in the way of my low speed needle / mixture screw. Finished 3D Printer, RB7, Hummer, Skyrider drone & Combat tank collection http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/10/2010 Posts: 689 Points: 2,130 Location: Dorset
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Got the same problem Having problems starting my Hummer, have even got a replacement carb but it is still difficult to start and the position of the adjustment screws does not help. As you say the only way is to remove the exhaust. I did manage to start mine by removing the glow plug adding a few drops of fuel in the piston replacing the glow plug. This worked but is a bit of a faff. Now I find the servos will not respond to the remote. This might be a battery problem although the remote still has three nice bright lights and the battery pack in the Hummer test ok for power. Will replace the batteries and see if that helps GilShapley attached the following image(s): Current Build:-
[color=blue]Stash Avro Lancaster (Full Kit)plus some extra issues I picked up at a good price
[color=blue]Built:- Norman Catapult by Mantua,Roman Catapult by Mantua,HMS Victory,HMS Victory XSection,Focker DB1,Bismark,English Carronade Titanic Lifeboat,American Civil War Gatling,Hummer,Sopwith Camel F1,Occre Jupiter ,OcCre Wagon, Latina Arab Dhow, Eaglemass Orrery OcCre Rogers 119 [color=red][color=red]RB7,OcCre Missippi River Boat, Model Airways Fokker DR1
OcCre London L>C>C 106 Ugears Scrambler, Ugears Hexapod Explorer UGears Off-Road Vehicle
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Sounds like the receiver batteries may need replacing.
Do you have the O ring around the base of the carb in place?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/03/2010 Posts: 234 Points: 734 Location: Whelpley Hill, Chesham
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Same problem, 'O' ring in place, batteries are new. Start up sequence correct. Have found this engine very difficult to start even with settings as per instructions. When it does start adjusting settings very difficult and stalls when stopped even with a reasonable tick over. I have new recoil starter assembly on order with customer services to replace the one I damaged while attempting to start the engine. I'm not aware of any interference causing the receiver to do just as it likes and noticed that just moving the hand control unit around affected the receiver without touching the actual controls. I fear that it might just take off on it's own causing all sorts of damage. Built: Bluenose, Arab Dhow, HMS Bounty, Hummer H1, D51, Spitfire,E type Jaguar.
In Progress: HMS Victory, , Yamaha YZR-M1
Adapt, improvise, overcome.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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If you are getting movement of the servo's without any use of the controls then it's likely you are getting signal interference. Have you tried a different crystal pair?
One of the most common newbie tuning problems instant stalls on throttle or after pull-started.
If you have this problem then its one or a combination of the following (check in order below):
1 - Faulty Glow Plug - replace if need be
2 - Idle is too low - open the carb via the trim on the radio
3 - LSN too rich/lean
4 - HSN too rich/lean
5 - Engine too cold
3+4:
- if the setting is too rich you'll hear the engine being groggy at idle and see plenty of smoke and unburnt fuel.
- it the setting is too lean there will be no smoke at idle and the engine will scream/high revs.
Basic engine Tuning:
Tune in order, make sure the car is at its base settings.
Note: Most nitro engines are happy with changes to the needles in 1/8 increments.
1. High Speed Needle (HSN)
Turn the HSN clockwise (to lean) in a 1/8 increment and drive down a straight, each time you do this you'll see a small increase in performance (and a good trail of smoke), keep doing it until:
A : there's little or no smoke from the exhaust
or
B : the car gets slower at full throttle (down a straight) or stalls at full throttle.
at this point turn anti-clockwise (richen) 1/8, if it's still no good turn another 1/8, that will be enough.
Untuned HSN Symptoms:
Too Rich - Lots of smoke/slow-poor performance/stall/groggy sound to the engine - Turn clockwise.
Too Lean - Little or no smoke/very fast/loss in performance at full throttle or stall - Turn anti-clockwise.
2. Low Speed Needle (LSN)
Tune the LSN in the same way, but only make adjustments in very small increments at a time. The LSN is very sensitive and you can potentially cook your engine if it's set too lean. You are looking for fast and smooth acceleration with some smoke, a steady idle with some smoke and a bit of unburnt fuel won't hurt
Note: it takes time for the LSN adjustments to be visable, it helps to accelerate at full throttle for 5 seconds then brake and idle for a few seconds then accelerate again, repeat until you see the improvement in acceleration then carry on making adjustments.
If it stalls, stutters with high revs / no smoke on acceleration then turn anti clockwise 1/8, if no good unscrew another 1/8 - this should be enough.
Untuned LSN Symptoms:
Too Rich - Lots of smoke and unburnt fuel at idle/slow acceleration/stall
Too Lean - little or no smoke on acceleration/immediate stall on throttle or stutters / high engine revs
3. Idle Screw
Your idle may be affected after these changes, make adjustments in small increments at a time,
Turn anti clockwise if it runs too fast at idle - wheels spin with no throttle.
Turn clockwise if its too slow/low - eg revs drop then stall, stalls on throttle or imediately after being pull-started.
Once tuned your car should have a fast smooth acceleration, steady idle and ALWAYS a good trail of smoke - which indicates good lubrication.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/03/2010 Posts: 234 Points: 734 Location: Whelpley Hill, Chesham
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I gave up on the R/C messing about and doing it's own thing and installed a 2.4gh R/C and this seems to have rectified the problem. I have yet to enjoy a run without stalling despite following all the given advice. I also note that a lot of oily liquid is coming out of the exhaust. Do I close down the fuel needle? Will it even start if I do? Beginning to regret this build. Built: Bluenose, Arab Dhow, HMS Bounty, Hummer H1, D51, Spitfire,E type Jaguar.
In Progress: HMS Victory, , Yamaha YZR-M1
Adapt, improvise, overcome.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/01/2014 Posts: 67 Points: 197 Location: Essex
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It's not the easiest thing in the world, but not all that difficult.
I'm doing this on the red bull but it uses exactly the same engine. I just followed the Kyosho off on the engine and have it tuned so it's able to start, hold an idle and not stall if I give it throttle. Sadly a part broke so I haven't got round to tuning the LSN, HSN or AFR yet but you need to be sure the idle screw is set right first. That's the base of the tune.
Yes, nitro vehicles do, and always should have some oil exiting the exhaust.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 540 Points: 1,630 Location: England
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You may want to do what I do with the Hummer and wrap an old tea towel or something around the exhaust after you have finished to catch and residue. It's good to give the model a little shake while still outside to minimise the amount left in the exhaust. Finished 3D Printer, RB7, Hummer, Skyrider drone & Combat tank collection http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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alemo wrote:I gave up on the R/C messing about and doing it's own thing and installed a 2.4gh R/C and this seems to have rectified the problem.
I have yet to enjoy a run without stalling despite following all the given advice. I also note that a lot of oily liquid is coming out of the exhaust. Do I close down the fuel needle? Will it even start if I do?
Beginning to regret this build.
An oily residue from the exhaust is quite normal as nitro engines need to expel unused lubricant from the fuel mix.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2014 Posts: 78 Points: 216 Location: Doncaster
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Same problem, set to 4 turns out. can't adjust idle screw due to exhaust in way.
running this engine in an old kyosho dx2 buggy and it is very temperamental at times but that actually runs more than a few seconds at a time.
does the low end need to be flush with carb as mine was set 2-3 turns in before i even tried to start?
will be fitting fuel pump to chassis so i don't have to prime by putting finger over exhaust and then pulling starter cord.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2014 Posts: 78 Points: 216 Location: Doncaster
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This is much better for priming
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/03/2010 Posts: 234 Points: 734 Location: Whelpley Hill, Chesham
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Thanks Mr T, beginning to understand this engine and getting more use without stalling, I will win in the end. Thats a novel idea to fit a fuel pump to prime the engine. Built: Bluenose, Arab Dhow, HMS Bounty, Hummer H1, D51, Spitfire,E type Jaguar.
In Progress: HMS Victory, , Yamaha YZR-M1
Adapt, improvise, overcome.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/01/2014 Posts: 67 Points: 197 Location: Essex
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Spent two days trying to get the screws in the right position on the RB7 model (same engine). Its confusing for a newbie (such as me) to know where you're supposed to start, but also used Mr T's guide and got it running sweet.
Took a while to figure out what was wrong as it would always cut out at full throttle, but sorted that too.
I should complete the H1 engine in about a weeks time so will have to do it all over again!
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