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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/07/2015 Posts: 32 Points: 96 Location: Houston, Texas, USA
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Here goes....I have received Pack 1 and I am delighted. I have taken clues from the other diaries for posting into the diary. Based on the "Attaching Photos" I am going to insert my first photo. Thanks to one and all of the other builders. Your diaries have been an inspiration. Stephan199 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Nice one Stephan, its always got to see other peoples diarys and see which way they take their build
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 75 Points: 234 Location: St. Louis USA
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Good luck and have fun. I just started my 3rd model, but my first real big wooden ship, The HMS Victory. I see you have paper towels on your table for surface and product protection. I work on our dinning room table so I can hang out with my wife while I work. I found some cork board on Amazon as a perfect surface to use. Its light, transportable and looks nice and neat and keep scratches of my project and table. Food for thought. Happy building. In the workshop: HMS VictoryFinished builds: Providence Whaleboat
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/03/2015 Posts: 52 Points: 142 Location: Granbury, Texas
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Welcome aboard, Stephan. This is where the fun begins
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Welcome to the forum Stephan and enjoy your build Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Welcome to ModelSpace, hope you enjoy your stay with us and your Falcon build
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Welcome to the forum Stephan happy building Rgd Martyn Building ? Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa Next Build ? When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/07/2015 Posts: 32 Points: 96 Location: Houston, Texas, USA
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I like the cork board for protection and will be browsing the shops shortly. One of the details I really liked was the drill out of the quad cannon barrels. Here is my first attempt. Stephan199 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/07/2015 Posts: 32 Points: 96 Location: Houston, Texas, USA
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Gauncer wrote:Good luck and have fun. I just started my 3rd model, but my first real big wooden ship, The HMS Victory.
I see you have paper towels on your table for surface and product protection. I work on our dinning room table so I can hang out with my wife while I work. I found some cork board on Amazon as a perfect surface to use. Its light, transportable and looks nice and neat and keep scratches of my project and table.
Food for thought.
Happy building.
Good idea... I will be browsing the shops tomorrow for cork board. Thanks much for the suggestion, very helpful.
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/07/2015 Posts: 32 Points: 96 Location: Houston, Texas, USA
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Just finished correcting the turret window position. Here is the corrected piece. I am sure if I had more experience this wouldn't have been such a chore. Because I was afraid I would break the piece, it took a couple of hours. I now feel better about the strength of this model. The ABS is tough stuff. Stephan199 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Nicely done Stephan, I think everyone is a little scared when they cut into a kit for the first time to mod it, I know I was
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/06/2015 Posts: 82 Points: 237
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Yea, I must agree. The pucker factor was pretty high when I was breaking the turret ring out as well, but I did it successfully. Even made a video on how to do it for YouTube!
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/07/2015 Posts: 32 Points: 96 Location: Houston, Texas, USA
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BradM73 wrote:Yea, I must agree. The pucker factor was pretty high when I was breaking the turret ring out as well, but I did it successfully. Even made a video on how to do it for YouTube! Hi Brad, Your "YouTube Video" is the exact process I used to mod the piece. It was quite informative, and gave me the courage to make the change.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/03/2015 Posts: 52 Points: 142 Location: Granbury, Texas
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I agree, that little window frame made me feel a bit sick when I heard the pop of it breaking loose. It was glued in very well
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/07/2015 Posts: 32 Points: 96 Location: Houston, Texas, USA
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OK. Here is where rank amateur shines through. I completed the cockpit and tried to show wear on the seats, but it looks like a mess and very dirty, which was not what I was trying to accomplish. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. At this point, I am thinking spray paint over them and then try again. The technique was a Q-Tip and very dry paint. For the UK folks, who might not have heard of Q-Tip, it is a cotton bud. Stephan199 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/06/2015 Posts: 20 Points: 60 Location: Mississippi
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From a noob: I primed and base coated the seats to add weathering. That plastic is hard to get a good dry paint to adhere, it gets really splotchy
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Hi Stephan looks like Hans and chuee had a bit of an accident with a bad landing lol you can get paint washes from all good model shops they are very thin and flow in to the detail and gaps to give depth and then on to dry brushing Hope this helps rgd Martyn Building ? Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa Next Build ? When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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This should not be to difficult to sort out. You meed some appropriate thinners so if the paint is oil oil paint thinners and if it is acrylic acrylic thinners. Then use a cotton bud diped in the thiners and squeezed so it is damp not wet and gently rup the areas of paint you want to remove. This should lift the paint yo dont want and leave it in the creases of the chair. Alternativky you could dry brush the chairs. Dip your brush in the chair paint wipe all the paint of the brush so it is dry and gently drag the brush iver the raised areas if the seat to cover the excessive wash. Good luck Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.” -Mark Twain
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/07/2015 Posts: 32 Points: 96 Location: Houston, Texas, USA
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Thanks to all. I will try these techniques and post the results. I did not glue the parts yet, so I can disassemble and paint them.
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/07/2015 Posts: 10 Points: 30
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Jase's suggestions are pretty good, you can easily use what you've done so far as some base weathering then add some washes and dry brushing over it to lessen the effect. Here are some videos on the techniques... This is a nice one on dry brushing with oils... And it's on a subject we all like! Dry Brushing with oilsThis one covers washes and some other techniques as well.... Guru's doing a build of the falcon as well so the subject is on the money as well.. Cockpit washThere are LOTS of other model painting technique videos out there as well that would help you along, covering multiple subjects, not just the Falcon. The trick is to find a technique you like, that works for you, and practice it! If you don't have an old kit you can use as a practice piece the seats from the falcon will definitely work as a stand in. They'll take lots of painting and weathering and still show their details. Have at it! I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates who said... "I Drank What?!?!"
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