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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Pack 15 contains Stages 48 - 50
Stage 48 – Mounting the engine.
Contains –
Hose A
Hose B
M2.6 x 10mm self-tapping screws x 3 (one is a spare)
M2.6 x 8.5mm screws x 3 (one is a spare)
Take the water pump T hose from Stage 14 and fit it onto the nozzle of hose A, then push it firmly into place. Take the engine block from stage 18 and line up hose A’s connector to the hole in the rear of the block by sliding it into the space beneath the HT lead connectors.
Rotate the hose gently upward then push into place. Use the end of a wooden pencil to press the hose A connector into the hole fully, securing the part.
Take the water pump T hose and feed it across the top of the engine block, fitting it beneath the other hoses so that it sits neatly within the recess between the left and right top cylinder covers, then fit the free end into the hole on the front right side of the engine block.
Take the ignition coil mount (assembled in Stage 34) and attach it to the left rear fender (Stage 34) on the underbody assembly (Stage 47) with two M2.6 × 6mm tapping screws (Stage 43). Fit with the square moulding on the left of the two ignition coils.
Lift up the rear of the underbody assembly by about 5cm and remove any masking tape previously used to hold the suspension in place. Put the engine block assembly in the rear of the underbody. Make sure you have it positioned correctly, with its left side tilting downwards to allow the rear left driveshaft to fit into the hole in the engine block. Hold the parts in place, then turn the assembly around and lay it out upside down on your work surface. Laying a towel out before you do this will help protect it.
Remove the M2.6 × 8mm screw that attaches the upper arm using the thin screwdriver (see Stage 18). As the screwdriver is going in diagonally, it is easy to damage the screw. As a precaution, a spare screw was provided with Stage 38. By removing the upper arm of the right rear hub, it is possible to adjust the angle of the right driveshaft so that the end of the driveshaft can be plugged into the hole in the engine block.
Using the size 1 Phillips screwdriver, tighten two M2.6 × 6mm self-tapping screws into the screw holes in the chassis. Do not tighten the screws fully.
Insert the tip of the lower arm into the groove of the chassis frame, and fix in an M2.6 × 8.5mm screw, use a size 1 Phillips screwdriver, then connect the radius arm to the bracket with an M2.6 × 10mm self-tapping screw in the screw hole. Then repeat using two more screws on the other side.
Now reattach the right rear hub. Again, working on the screw diagonally may damage the screw heads, so there is a spare provided. Stage complete.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 49 – Assembling the left radiator.
Contains –
Left radiator A
Left radiator B
Radiator fan guard
Radiator fan
Left radiator C
Left radiator D
Valve hoses x 2
M2 x 5mm countersunk screws x 6 (one is a spare)
Fit the left radiator part C to part D by locating the two pins and pushing together, then fit the fan to the fan guard.
Line up the fan and guard to the face of the left radiator A, so that the pins and holes align, then press the parts together. Turn the assembly over and insert an M2 x 5mm countersunk screw into the central hole and tighten.
Now join up the radiator A and fan sub-assembly to the radiator B, making sure that the yellow wires are sitting in the groove and are not trapped between the parts. The pins should sit in the corresponding sockets, then press the parts together. Secure with two M2 x 5mm countersunk screws.
Now line up the radiator part C/D sub-assembly and fit it into the radiator part A/B. The two pins are differently sized to ensure you fit the parts correctly, then press the parts together.
Take the underbody assembly and locate the two free HT leads at the rear of the engine block. Stretch these out gently, then, using side cutters trim the HT leads to the correct length – they need to run into the ignition coils with a little slack, then press the ends of the leads into the coils.
Take the two valve hoses supplied with this stage and fit the tips of these into the A/C filter valve tips on the engine block. Use tweezers to help you do this, then feed the hoses around to the left of the engine and around to the front of the block.
Carefully turn the assembly over again (as before, a towel will help protect your model) and find the exhausts assembled in Stage 14. Line these up to the rear of the model then push the exhaust pipes into place, then turn the body face up again. Put an M2.3 × 6mm self-tapping screw with washer (from Stage 46) in the screw hole and partly tighten, insert another screw (M2.3 × 6mm self-tapping) into the other hole but don’t tighten this fully either.
You have now completed this stage’s assembly. Keep the spare screws in a plastic bag marked with the stage number.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 50– Fitting the main circuit board.
Contains –
Main circuit board × 1
M2.6 × 6mm self-tapping
screws × 5 (1 is a spare )
M2.6 × 4mm self-tapping screws × 5 (1 is a spare)
The main circuit board fits into the underbody assembled in Stage 49. Align the two mounting posts with the holes on the circuit board then put the main circuit board in place, taking care not to snag any of the wires extending from the main board. Secure the board with two M2.6 × 6mm screws.
Take the switch unit on its cable from the main board then place the unit in position in the slot of the underbody, with the switch itself pointing into the large central hole. Note the position of the metal terminal which indicates the correct alignment of the unit then secure with two M2.0 × 5mm countersunk self-tapping screw from Stage 49.
Take the left radiator assembled in Stage 49. Fit the two hoses from the air filter into holes in the side of the radiator.
Move the wires away from the rear side of the main board, and put the left radiator in place, aligning the screw holes. Be careful that you do not pull or kink the wires then secure the radiator with two M2.6 × 4mm screws.
Take the yellow cable from the main board and the cable that extends from the left radiator. The plug on the radiator cable pushes into a socket on the yellow cable.
This stage is now complete.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Pack 16 contains Stages 51 - 54
Stage 51 – Attaching the oil filter and right radiator.
Contains –
Air conditioning (A/C) outlets x 3
Dashboard
Take the oil filter and metal hose A (Stage 34). Metal hoses A and B are similar, so first determine which is which. Metal hose A has a mounting pin on one end and a socket on the other.
Fit the socket end of metal hose A onto the upper mounting pin on the oil filter.
Take metal hose B (Stage 34) and compare the different sizes of the two ends. Take the larger end of metal hose B and fit it onto the lower mounting pin of the oil filter then take the right radiator from Stage 35 and put the mounting pin end of metal hose A into the hole on the radiator and push into place.
Take the underbody assembly from Stage 50, and put the right radiator in place then secure with a M2.6 x 4mm screw.
Take radiator hose A, provided with Stage 35. And fit on the front of the right radiator, then fit the oil filter, - the mounting hole is D-shaped, so you must match the orientation of the mounting pin on the oil filter to fit in the hole correctly.
Take the free end of metal hose B and fit it to the mounting pin on the left radiator.
Take radiator hose B from Stage 48 and fit into position, pay attention to the way the radiator hose fits above the metal hoses and underneath the orange wires on the left.
This stage’s assembly is complete. The right and left radiators are mounted with the pipes and hoses.stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 52 – Testing and attaching the steering wheel.
Contains –
Steering wheel
Ignition key
M2.3 x 4mm self-tapping screws
with washers x 2 (one is a spare)
Remove the battery compartment cover and fit 3 type “AAA” batteries.
Take the LED tester from Stage 28 and plug the battery lead into the socket marked “Battery” on the LED tester board.
There are three plugs coming from the steering wheel. You will test all three. First, take the plug on the brown wire and fit it into the socket marked SWITCH on the LED tester. Make sure to match the correct orientation of the plug to the SWITCH socket of the LED tester.
When you press the lever, you will feel a click and a red LED on the LED tester will light up. If this step is successful, remove the plug from the socket carefully.
In the same way, put the plug attached to the orange wire into the SWITCH socket of the LED tester then put the ignition key into the keyhole on the right side of the steering wheel. The ignition key will fit in either way up.
When you push the ignition key, the red LED on the LED tester will illuminate. If the LED lights up successfully, remove the plug from the socket, and pull out the ignition key. If you are not proceeding directly to Stage 53, remove the batteries from the battery box. This completes the test of the steering wheel’s electronics.
Take caution seal A from Stage 47, and take it off the base sheet with the tweezers and stick it under the ignition coil on the rear left side of the underbody.
Take the dashboard and the air conditioning (A/C) outlets from Stage 51. On the back of each outlet is a D-shaped mounting pin which fits into a similarly-shaped mounting hole – fit all 3 A/C outlets to the dashboard.
Take the steering wheel and put it into position, the D-shaped mounting post in the steering wheel base fits into the similarly-shaped mounting hole in the dashboard and secures with a M2.3 x 4mm screw.
This assembly stage is now complete. As the ignition key is very small and there is no spare, keep it in a safe place so as not to lose it.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 53 – Attaching the instrument panel.
Contains –
Instrument panel x 1
If you have removed the batteries, replace them by following Steps 1-4 in Stage 52.
Take the LED tester and insert the plug on the red and black wires from the battery box into the socket marked BATTERY.
Take the dashboard instrument panel and put the plug on the left-hand wire into the socket marked SWITCH on the LED tester. When you put the plug in the socket, the instrument panel will illuminate. If this is successful, remove the plug from the socket. On removing the plug, be careful not to damage the cables, plugs or sockets.
Next, take the wire from the lower right of the instrument panel and insert the plug in the SWITCH socket of the LED tester.
As you push in the plug, an LED on the right side of the instrument panel is illuminated. If this works successfully, this completes the test for the instrument panel. Take out the plugs and remove the batteries from the battery box.
Take the dashboard assembled in Stage 52, and push the right wire from the instrument panel through the right-hand socket in the dashboard. In the same way, push the left wire through the hole in the dashboard.
Two mounting posts on the instrument panel fit into the sockets on top of the dashboard, push the instrument panel into the top of the dashboard.
Hold the dashboard in place and turn the assembly over and secure with two M2.6 x 6mm screws.
This stage’s assembly is complete. Take the assembled dashboard and store it carefully in a plastic bag with all its cablesstevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 54 – The bonnet (1)
Bonnet
Rain guard plate
Left bonnet hinge
Right bonnet hinge
M1.7 x 4mm countersunk screws x 3 (one is a spare)
M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws x 2 (one is a spare)
Put the left and right bonnet hinges side by side to see the difference in shape. Take care, as the parts are very similar. Take the left bonnet hinge and an M1.7 x 4mm countersunk screw.
Since the screw is very small, use a size 0 Phillips screwdriver. Put the screw in the hole at the end of the hinge and turn the bonnet over, secure the hinge to the bonnet then do the same for the right side hinge.
Check the left and right hinges with your fingertips. The hinges need to move smoothly, so adjust them with the screwdriver if either is too stiff or too loose.
Take the rain guard plate. Peel off the backing of the double-sided tape with tweezers then put the rain guard plate in position on the underside of the bonnet, with the double-sided tape facing down and push into place.
This stage’s assembly is complete. The underbody assembly now has both radiators fitted and the radiator hoses. The bonnet has its hinges fitted, ready to be put into the body.
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