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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/09/2012 Posts: 101 Points: 245 Location: Wirral
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For a brass variant, I need a bit of IPA or vinegar to degrease, and the following: 1. Lacquer - Can I use this? http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/specialist-decorative-paints/halfords-matt-lacquer-300ml2. Clear primer - whats the best to get thats readily available? Im struggling to find clear primer, etch or non...or do i even need it if im cleaning and spraying the lacquer alone? Completed: Earth, Moon, Sun Orbiter
Build a Model Solar System
Under Constuction: HMB Endeavour
HMS Victory
Mitsubishi Zero
Tiger Tank
D51
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Which ever clear top coat you use, you need to ensure its compatible with the clear primer being used.
These are the only two clear aerosol primers aimed at the model market, both are very had to find on sale in the UK and expensive to buy offshore..
Tamiya 87061 metal primer
Mr Hobby B-504 Mr Metal Primer
There might be a clear automotive primer which can be used though can't say I've seen one.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/09/2012 Posts: 101 Points: 245 Location: Wirral
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Right, I now have 2 cans of mr metal primer, can i use any matt lacquer topcoat? Im guessing so, as the primer smells lacquer-y when i was playing with it. I see what you meant Mr.T about procuring it...£7 isnt too bad, its when its the same again for delivery cos the bloody terrorists stopped bulk purchases thru royal mail  Completed: Earth, Moon, Sun Orbiter
Build a Model Solar System
Under Constuction: HMB Endeavour
HMS Victory
Mitsubishi Zero
Tiger Tank
D51
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 I would try a test piece using your primer ,colour coat and top coat just to be sure of no bad reactions  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 03/01/2016 Posts: 37 Points: 110 Location: Luton,UK
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Hi, have you tried http://plasti-kote.co.uk/products. They do a range of spray paints including primers which they claim are useful for modellers. My son has used them on his laptop! I've yet to try them on brass but would recommend trying them. B & Q, Screwfix, and Tool Station all sell them.
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 03/01/2016 Posts: 37 Points: 110 Location: Luton,UK
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B & Q are doing a range of spray paints made by Valspar. I'm trying their Satin Black which includes the primer in the paint, I've tried a few tests sprays and it takes OK on white metal and brass even when uncleaned so imagine it will work well on degreased and cleaned parts even better.
They are no longer marketing Plasticote products.
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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/03/2016 Posts: 4 Points: 15 Location: London
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A couple of points .
PRIMER-----I use Etch Primer on my metal models . It costs about £10 a can , but a
search of the internet will get you what you want , usually best bought as
4-Packs , but you may not want to buy that much . The use of etch is easy if
you follow the directions . It is important to keep coats to a minimum .
Another trick is to use Car Exhaust Paint ; I use it on my live steam stuff.
D51--------The piston rod valve shafts are very sloppy in the hole in the rear of the
cylinder . I dismantled it and filled the hole and redrilled it to the
proper size .
I have been surprised that nobody else has brought this up , the slop is so
bad that the valve gear can lock up , but in any case spoils an otherwise
excellent model .
Mike
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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No one has reported the problem as its not posed a problem to the hundreds of modellers that have long since completed the D51 build, probably because the fit tolerance is not that you might expect of a live steam build.
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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HI MIke
welcome to the forum,
thanks for the tips.I would love to see some of your live steam trains.I dream of building a live steam train like the ones Aster makes, but there is no one close to me to inspect my build and I would be nervous firing one up without someone who knows what thye are doing looking over it.And they are also $9000!!
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/03/2016 Posts: 4 Points: 15 Location: London
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Tomick wrote:No one has reported the problem as its not posed a problem to the hundreds of modellers that have long since completed the D51 build, probably because the fit tolerance is not that you might expect of a live steam build. I have nearly finished my second D51 and found the problem on both . Perhaps the "hundreds of modellers" that you quote either accepted it or didn't want to make a fuss. The fault is there , if I hadn't already fixed it I would send you a picture of the slop in the piston valve rod . Unmodified , it works , it's simply that the rod goes up and down as well as in/out and it can go so far out of true that the gear "notches" . I do not raise problems that don't exist . By the way , for some reason the post I made above is counted as my first post , That isn't true either . Mike
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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The hundreds having built this kit in the UK (which in Japan is 1000's), clearly find the piston rod okay and has not posed a problem.
Even so, can you keep on topic, which is about D51 paint.
The system show's you have made just two posts to date, both in this topic, hence your post count being 2, why is this untrue?
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 03/01/2016 Posts: 37 Points: 110 Location: Luton,UK
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The Valspar range of Paint which includes Primer might be worth checking, I think they include clear types as well. The Satin Black I am using is working well but needs several light coats to get a decent thickness.
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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railfan wrote:
Unmodified , it works , it's simply that the rod goes up and down as well as in/out and it can go so far out of true that the gear "notches" .
I had this happen. Turned out it was an alignment issue with the drive wheel coupling rods I introduced by not reading the instructions carefully enough. Once I corrected that issue the piston rod moved flawlessly, in fact it moves in a perfectly straight line.
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/03/2016 Posts: 4 Points: 15 Location: London
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Tomick wrote:The hundreds having built this kit in the UK (which in Japan is 1000's), clearly find the piston rod okay and has not posed a problem.
Even so, can you keep on topic, which is about D51 paint.
The system show's you have made just two posts to date, both in this topic, hence your post count being 2, why is this untrue?
I am surprised , nay , staggered that you have managed to examine the achievements of the hundreds and thousands of modellers to find they had no problems . The fault exists , am I supposed to ignore it ? I am sure that others finding it may like to know a cure----perhaps they have , and not mentioned it . I shall think twice before offering advice in the future . And , by the way , my previous posts had been under another name , but because the admin people could not accept that I have two accounts they seem to have normalised them into one . Anyone interested can look under "Mike M" Finally I apologise for not sticking to the paint . Mike M
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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railfan wrote:Tomick wrote:The hundreds having built this kit in the UK (which in Japan is 1000's), clearly find the piston rod okay and has not posed a problem.
Even so, can you keep on topic, which is about D51 paint.
The system show's you have made just two posts to date, both in this topic, hence your post count being 2, why is this untrue?
I am surprised , nay , staggered that you have managed to examine the achievements of the hundreds and thousands of modellers to find they had no problems . The fault exists , am I supposed to ignore it ? I am sure that others finding it may like to know a cure----perhaps they have , and not mentioned it . I shall think twice before offering advice in the future . And , by the way , my previous posts had been under another name , but because the admin people could not accept that I have two accounts they seem to have normalised them into one . Anyone interested can look under "Mike M" Finally I apologise for not sticking to the paint . Mike M I had no issue with my D51 build, but I suspect since you do live steam you probably have a much lower tolerance for any kind of slop.Since the D51 doesnt actually move anywhere or pull anything I would guess the imprecision of the piston movement in some D51s probably either isnt noticed or isnt a problem for the static model with the modellers that are not live steam builders.I would imagine any slop in a live steam train would cause a catastrophic failure pretty quickly? I still would love to see some pics and videos of your live steam builds. How would you compare the technical difficulty building a live steam kit vs the D51?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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railfan wrote:Tomick wrote:The hundreds having built this kit in the UK (which in Japan is 1000's), clearly find the piston rod okay and has not posed a problem.
Even so, can you keep on topic, which is about D51 paint.
The system show's you have made just two posts to date, both in this topic, hence your post count being 2, why is this untrue?
I am surprised , nay , staggered that you have managed to examine the achievements of the hundreds and thousands of modellers to find they had no problems . The fault exists , am I supposed to ignore it ? I am sure that others finding it may like to know a cure----perhaps they have , and not mentioned it . I shall think twice before offering advice in the future . And , by the way , my previous posts had been under another name , but because the admin people could not accept that I have two accounts they seem to have normalised them into one . Anyone interested can look under "Mike M" Finally I apologise for not sticking to the paint . Mike M There is no reason to examine anything unless it is reported by a growing number of customers. Which if it was a problem or of concern, our c/s team would have picked it up across at least 5 countries the D51 was sold into and the matter then investigated. This seems not to have posed a problem other than for you or let's say its somthing you wasn't happy with, and therefore the general consensus being that this is nothing to be concerned with.
That said, as with all kits, if there is something in a kit that the builder is unhappy about, as you have done, they tend to make adjustment as they see fit. This does not constitute something that needs to be cured by others as it's a personal choice thing. Clearly if a builder has produced the end result and is happy, they are not going to cure something that does not need to be cured.
Regarding your username, its not possible to add the post count from a previous username to the new username, in effect they appear as two members and therefore the post count or medals cannot be transferred from one to the other.
Had you spoken with me about this matter, it would have been a simple matter of a password reset of your orginal username. Your previous username has now been suspended from use.
Topic locked.
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