Issue 36 - Contains planking/pins and has instruction which continue's the hull planking and the fitting of the Garboard plank.

Continue the hull planking for another 8 layers on both sides of the hull, the exact layout of your planks may vary slightly; follow the basic techniques described within issues 32/33, tapering planks if necessary and fitting dropper planks where required, not forgetting to chamfer the edges of the planks for a gap free fit.

Ensure that the joints are staggered, and the successive centre planks should run between frames 17 and 24, 16 and 23, then 18 and 25

Garboard plank fitting:

If you fit the garboard plank now, it will be easier to fit the remaining planks neatly, rather than ending up with a lozenge-shaped hole that needs filling with planks tapered to a point, the process should be repeated for both sides of the hull.

Bow fillets - To provide extra support for the garboard plank, add fillets to the false keel between frames 12,13,14 and 15, glue the fillets in place so they sit slightly proud of the false keel, and allow to dry thoroughly before continuing.
Then sand the fillets flush with the false keel and along the line of the frames, similar to fairing the frames of the hull.

Centre garboard plank - Take an off-cut of plank long enough to fit between frames 19 and 22, cut it so that the ends finish on the centre of the frames, glue and pin this plank in position, overlapping the false keel by about 1mm; you only need to apply glue to the frames, not the false keel.

Aft garboard plank - Butt a plank against the rear end of the plank just fitted, and cut it so that it overhangs the stern by 4mm. This plank will need to be twisted towards the stern, soak the plank in warm water to make it easier to twist.
Apply glue to the frames and also over a band about 4mm wide along the thinned stern section of the false keel, then pin the plank into position allowing it to overlap the edge of the false keel by about 1mm; where the plank twist vertically to run along the thinned section, make sure the plank slightly overhangs the top of the false keel to allow for later trimming.

Forward garboard plank - The bow plank should run straight on from the centre plank, and is twisted to fit the false keel and fillets between frames 13 and 14.
Do not bend the plank to follow the curve of the keel, but allow it to run straight on.
Apply glue to the frames and fillets in the area where the bow plank will touch, pin the plank in position ensuring that it overlaps the false keel by about 1mm. Insert a temporary pin through the plank into the false keel to ensure that the forward end of the plank is glued firmly to the fillets.
When the glue is thoroughly dry, trim the bow plank in line with the edge of the false keel.



Issue 37 - Contains more hull planking/pins, and continue's the planking of the hull.

Issue 38 - Contains more hull planking/pins, and continue's the planking of the hull. (A digital Caliper and David's Plane are very handy item's for the completion of the lower hull planking).

Issue 39 - Contains wood strips/pins, real keel strips, curved stem and stern post, and has instruction for the fitting of the real keel/stem and stern post, and the sanding of the hull.

Issue 40 - Contains panels and decks for the Gallery and a 12-pounder gun kit, and has instruction for stage 1 of the gallery build.

Issue 41 - Contains curved parts for the gallery sides, wood strips to make the reinforcements (wales) along the hull planking, the bow deck and a temporary Bowsprit dowel to aid bow deck alignment.

Issue 38 - Contains planking/pins, and has instruction to complete the planking of the hull.
If you have a digital caliper, this will make it easy to measure the planking quickly and accurately, and when tapering, a mini plane can be used to remove the bulk of the material, both items can be found in the online shop, you'll also need a calculator to hand.

The final section of hull uses a different technique so that all the planks can run continuously from bow to stern. To achieve this, all the planks need to be tapered to fill the remaining gap evenly.
Don't forget to chamfer each plank, always cut and chamfer the upper edge (the one closest to the waterline), glue the plank edges as well as the frames and remove any excess glue as you go along, keep all the sizable scraps of planking for possible use later in the build.

The planking should be completed on one side of the hull and then completed the opposite side.

The gap in the planking is widest in the centre, tapering towards the bow and stern. To fit the same number of planks all the way along, you need to taper them to match the space available. The exception is at the stern, where you may need to add 'steeler' planks which is shown in great detail on page 13.

Pages 10/11 shows a grid which is to be filled out with the gap measurements for the laying of planks, you will need to fil out the grid twice (once for each side of the hull), therefore use a pencil to fill out the grid or have it photocopied.

It is a good idea to read through the instructions a few times to familiarise yourself with the task ahead, the measuring and fitting process is straight forward, though care should be taken with measurements and be as accurate as you can, although if you follow the method shown it does automatically correct any errors as you lay each later row of planks.
As before the planking should be staggered, and in the method shown, the planking runs up to the garboard plank rather than down from it.

For all the bow planks, the width of the end nearest the centre of the hull should be the same as the end of the plank onto which it butts. The width of the end nearest the bow should be the same as that you calculated at frame 14 -the part of the plank that runs from frame 14 to the bow should have parallel edges.

The completed hull planking is now ready for sanding smooth, and the fitting of the real keel which are covered in the next issue.


Issue 39 - Contains wood strips/pins, real keel strips, curved stem and stern post, and has instruction for the fitting of the real keel/stem and stern post, and the sanding of the hull.

Issue 40 - Contains panels and decks for the Gallery and a 12-pounder gun kit, and has instruction for stage 1 of the gallery build.

Issue 41 - Contains curved parts for the gallery sides, wood strips to make the reinforcements (wales) along the hull planking, the bow deck and a temporary Bowsprit dowel to aid bow deck alignment.

Issue 40 - Contains gallery decks rear and side panels and 12-pounder gun kit.

Parts 60,61 and 62 are the rear and side panels to form the gallery. Parts 61 and 62 are not permanently fitted at this stage as you need to curve them to match some formers that are supplied with issue 41. The two #59 parts act as vertical supports between the two decks.

Protecting the hull - Line the building frame with felt, or a similar material.

The planks under the gallery support may get a little thin when this area is shaped later on, so pack this area with a fillet of wood filler to provide additional strength, allow the filler to fully dry, then sand the rear face flush.

Stage 1 of the gallery build. - The fitting of the gallery decks and rear panel.
Glue the two #59 supports to the upper false deck (58), making sure they are the right way round, square and upright.

You'll need to cut slots in the stern planking for the upper false deck. Extend the lines from the top of the transom and the notches to the inside of the planking overhang, then cut the slots using a razor saw, it is better to make them slightly too wide so you have room to ease the false deck into place, test-fit the false deck, adjusting the slots if necessary then remove it.

Then test-fit the lower false deck, though do not force it if it is a tight fit. There are two points extending forward at the corners of the lower false deck, you may have to sand the planks where these touch the hull so that the false deck can slide fully forwards.
Replace the upper false deck, the two supports (59) should contact with the lower deck, then hold a rule so it lies flat against the stern planking, resting on the ends of both the upper and lower false decks, then draw a line along the top planks, and then trim off the stern planks allowing about 8-10mm excess for final fitting.

Test-fit the gallery rear panel (60), engaging the slots at the bottom with the tabs in the lower deck, the outer edges of the false deck will need to be curved down slightly so they align with the curved bottom edge of the gallery rear panel.
Sand the outer one of the two gallery supports on both sides until you can pull the end of the lower false deck down to match the curve of the bottom edge of the rear panel, though don't overdo the sanding, when you think you are nearing the right point, reassemble the decks and rear panel to check the fit

Soak the lower false deck in warm water for about 20 minutes to make it pliable, and then glue/pin it in place (using PVA suitable for damp wood).
Next, hold the rear panel in place and try fitting one side gallery into position (will be shaped to a curve at a later stage, but for now it does not matter), you'll need to adjust the angle of the rear panel to make the side panels fit properly. Sand the ends of the upper planks to allow you to angle the rear panel forwards, do this little at a time, until the tabs and slots in the side panel engage correctly with the lower false deck and rear panel.
Check that the upper false deck just touches the rear panel, you can slide the deck back in the slots a little, or sand it as necessary to adjust the fit, then apply PVA to the tabs and feet of the false deck, and slide it into position, hold the gallery rear panel in position and check that it still just touches.
Then glue the gallery rear panel to the false decks and ends of the planks and hold in place with masking tape until the glue sets.

Building up the gallery support - Now that the curved lower deck of the stern gallery is in place, you can extend the gallery support to fit underneath it.
Cut a plank to fit across the ends of the gallery supports and glue it in place which will leave a 4-5mm shaped gap under the centre of the gallery, then shape a plank to fit the curved gap left and glue into place, then repeat the process so that there is a double thickness of planking across the gallery supports, the final shaped plank can be a little shorter than the previous, at this stage do not sand the section to shape.

The 12-pounder gun is assembled as per those previously constructed.


Issue 41 - Contains curved parts for the gallery sides, wood strips to make the wales, the bow deck and a temporary Bowsprit dowel (to aid bow deck alignment), and has instruction for stage 2 of the gallery build (fitting of the sides and top), and the fitting of the bow deck.

Issue 42 - Contains wood strips/pins used to make the wales and two different metal eyebrows or 'wriggles' which will act as cutting patterns in 43; and has instruction for the fitting of the middle/lower wales and stern trim strip.

If you want to leave your model unpainted to show off the woodwork, you can choose woodstain to highlight features such as the wales, you'll need to decide this at 42 where you will need to stain the edges of the wales before fitting them to your model.
It is inadvisable to use a wood dye, its thin viscosity makes it spread rapidly and without control where it will creep beyond where you want it to be, therefore use a woodstain, always test the stain on scrap of the supplied wood before applying to your model, the example in the magazine shows a walnut woodstain, but you can choose any colour you prefer.

Issue 43 - Contains wood strips and shaped pieces for reinforcing the hawsehole's, bow and stem, plus gratings and round shot; and has instruction for the planking of the bow deck where you will need a black permanent marker pen to simulate deck caulking, the fitting of the upper wale and moulding strip, making the eyebrow cut-outs over the gun ports, and the drilling of holes for the lower two rows of gun port hatch ropes (a 1.5mm drill bit is needed).

Issue 44 - Contains wood strips for the construction of the upper deck and to complete the stem reinforcements; and has instruction for adding the stem reinforcements (74,75,76), making the hawsehole's and the trimming of the stem post.