I am not sure how this works but the photos should be here. Posting commentary with photos has not worked well for me and this is my third attempt. Just did a Preview and WOWMOM they are here.

Ok, a deep breathe and we start again.

I received my kit early on Christmas Eve, just two days after ordering. Quite a surprise! Did not get into it until 12/26/15 and finished Pack 1 on the 29th. About 18 man-hours with the assets accounting for 2/3 thirds of the time. No real surprise here. I do plan to log my time on the build more exactly as this goes on and will report.

So much has been covered already of these Builds so I will comment on what happens and not rehash what has been said. My questions are planned and I hope you all help me.

Generally, the instructions are great, follow them. Relax, have good light, enjoy the journey without looking for the end. That's why we build models. Two fingers of bourbon every so often also aids the experience.

I decided to use medium viscosity CA glue with an accelerator spritz when needed. The white glue is included in the US kits but I opted to a thinner variety.

Stage 1 -

Be sure your tasset holes are aligned and save suffering down the road. Apply your glue from the inside when you can. Make sure your silk lacing is well prepared. I found the silk very difficult to cut. My wife's good fabric shears are the best. Establish your folds and keep your needle points thin.I stiffened them with a coat of CA.

Stage 2 -

I was worried about the nose piece being removable down the road so the left nose pin was not glued for now. The interference fit is good - no worries. Watch your mountains and valleys when lacing. I learned to use a toothpick right at the tasset hole in the direction of pull to adjust the fold. Be careful but it works for me.

Stage 3 -

My helmet bowl and lips did not quite mate. Suspect it is due to the paint applied to both surfaces. I filed the bowl tabs with a modeler's metal file to remove the paint and a bit of metal until the surfaces mated. Worked well. The Ball knots - they are slippery little devils. Prior to cutting off the bitter end place a small drop of CA any the cutting point before sniping off. Trust me, repairing an unraveled ball knot when no spare lengths are available is no fun. Secure your work.

NOW, we get to my pictures. I made the jig as shown and used it to finish my first tasset assembly. It works GREAT! You can allow a bit of slack, adjust to correct, flip the plates over, apply a small drop of CA where the lace and last hole meet as you move lower and it all stays in place. I also dampened all laces and let them dry vertically. Be sure to file and round your nails - I have also curved them backwards more since the photos were shot. I will comment more on this jig to see if my first impression holds.

Stage 4 -

No comments needed.

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This is my first subscription model and i like the time management provided. So I am asking if someone would sent me the dimensions of the cardboard display box included in the build. I am a good woodworker and wish to do the crate in wood. Simply Height, Width and Depth. I read Metric and English. What wood would be appropriate? Mahogany is my first pick but is that OK? Would the pieces be one piece or planks? A 3' wide single flat piece in the 15th century is hard to imagine. I think 3 piece tongue and grove planks are better as these hand shaping planes were well used then. I also ask about hands and hasps. Rope handles and toggle hasps seem appropriate. Comments please? I also plan to used blackened nailed brass edging. OK? Would the top of the crate be hinged or simply lifted off?

Questions on a backpiece flag and swords will be be later if I am still alive.

Done.

Back in business. When Model Space said once a month they were not kidding. 20 minutes tonight putting on the taste backing and laying out parts.

I am still asking if some of they veterans in this project would please send me the overall dimensions of the display box - WXDXH in metric or english for my planned wooden base I would appreciate.

Happy New Year from the left side of the pond. Thanks Alan for your welcome and all the visitors.

tom

You have yourself a very nice kit there and have made a great start to your build.

I am sure someone will give you the box dimensions you are asking for.

Thanks Derek,

I am relatively good at woodworking and have the requisite equipment.

Am thinking of a natural mahogany with a satin finish. There are a lot of picture on the web, some cases were leather wrapped, some were rounded, some lids were lift off, some were hinged. Some had shoulder harnesses. A lot of fun to do something to enhance the model. Suggestions are more than welcome. I do not understand the Japanese writing on the stock box and would like to know what is accurate or relevant to this man's armor.

Lots to learn and accomplish.

Tom

Thanks for the advice. That was one of the reasons I built my jig. We'll see how this set goes.

Tom

I a sorry for this. I am ready to report as to the build to date but I just cannot figure out to add photos. I use an iMac and the shots are in a file for my modelsl. I know this is simple but I remain stuck. My build diary is not worth much without the photos.

Tom

Hi Tom I have a iMac computer and use photoshop to resize my pictures. If you put the resize pictures on the desktop you can upload them to your posts hope this helps rgd Martyn

Now, if Gord reads this maybe he could tell me how he was able to combine text and photos in sequence in his build diary.

After completing my first set of tassets on my jig, I extended to lines for the top of each plate so it would be easier to work and adjust them as assembled (Photo below). I found it easier to handhold the first three as I laced them a bit loose and then putting them on the jig. Use the lines and pull the laces to be sure they match the pattern. Attach the next three plates on the jig. They will flop over easily for lacing. keep them a bit loose and then adjust. See the photos. You can see how loose I kept the laces as the plates were built up. Use your fingers and toothpicks to take up slack from both the front and back of the plates.

All laces were secured with a dab of medium CA prior to knowing them. You can hide the glue where it won't be sen if someone dares to flip up your tasset! Knots were also secured with a drop of CA.

Finally, I made up a hanging rack by scanning my jig's check sheet three times and cut and pasted them on a sheet of paper, extended lines between the plates and then scanned all onto one page of paper which got glued with adhesive spray to scrap wood ply sheet. You can see the final results in the photo.

On to the cuirass side and MORE TASSETS!

Tom

Phooey TWICE!!

After a bit of thought I feel it may be useful to say that my little tasset jig is proving out very well. It makes handling the assembly very easy as well as allowing me to align the plates and take up slack in the lacing without plates falling all around my hands. The caveats sent to me on being careful about overall lengths well well taken and the jig as well as the hanging rack help.

Most modelers hate repetitive work. We like to build the original but constant reproduction of the same part is just BORING. Examples are 106 cannons for your Victory as well as backstays, clews, ratlines, halyards, copper plating etc. Or a thousand rivets on a tank.The problem here is that this is were we tend to make our biggest mistakes which causes rework or worse.

So, I tend to jig where ever I can if multiples have to be produced.

Sorry about my photo posting problems and I do not like the shots not being separated but I am learning. This forum program was written for folks who drive on the wrong side of the road.

Tom