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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Toyota 2000GT - Japan's first Supercar, considered to be the most collectable Japanese car of all time! The Toyota 2000GT was a limited edition, front-engine, rear-wheel drive, two-seat, hardtop coupé grand tourer designed by Toyota in collaboration with Yamaha.
It was first displayed to the public at the Tokyo Motor Show in 1965, and was manufactured under contract by Yamaha from 1967 to 1970. The 2000GT revolutionized the automotive world's view of Japan and demonstrated that Japanese auto manufacturers could produce a sports car to rival those of Europe.
Only 351 were ever made. Two of them were converted into convertibles for a 007 James Bond movie and one got obliterated by a fallen tree in Japan, another three were given to racing legend Carol Shelby to create the Shelby-Toyota 2000GT SSCA for the race track.
It's most famous screen appearance was in the 1967 James Bond movie 'You Only Live Twice', most of which was filmed in Japan. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8eJ8bj2sh0
Although not quite as well known to the general public as later Japanese sports cars such as the Nissan Z, the 2000GT is regarded by many as the first collectible Japanese car, and examples have sold at auction for as much as $1.2million. 2015 was the 50th Anniversary of the 2000GT
Toyota 2000GT model:
Toyota Officially Licensed
1/10 scale
Length 417mm, Width 160mm, Height 120mm
Weight: 3.5kg
Kit specification: Pre-painted Toyota Pegasus White body and pre-painted components. Pop-up headlamps. Diecast wheels. Operable doors, boot, bonnet and side hatch panels. Authentic 2-litre DOHC inline-six engine. Authentic dashboard. Operable steering and Suspension. Authentic tread pattern tyres. The kit also includes a few hand tools (philips screwdriver, file, tweezers, side-cutters, cross-wrench and 2.3mm tap), also a Toyota parts storage box.
Made of die-cast metal, ABS plastic and thermoplastic rubber, this is a must-have model for any collector or Toyota fan. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible.
A display case is also available an optional extra, which houses (at the press of a button), a digital recording of the real Toyota DOHC engine sound which rev's. Case dimensions: Length 480mm, Height 240mm (including base), Depth/width 290mm
Official video build: https://www.youtube.com/...pgem11t61VXkLkbyUguV0kK
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Pack 1 - Stages 1-13
Stage 1 - Valve covers and oil filler cap
Contains parts-
Valve covers Left front wheel Cylinder head Oil filler cap Hub nut
Insert the pin on the bottom of the oil filler cap into the hole in the valve cover marked ‘2000’. The Toyota logo is embossed on the top of the oil filler cap. Rotate the cap until the logo is in a position you like.
Push the pin on the oil filler cap into the hole in the cover. Push the filler cap in until it is flat against the cover.
Put the parts that you didn’t use in this stage into a resealable plastic bag. This will keep them tidy, make them easier to store and protect them from damage and dirt. Do this with any unused parts at the end of every assembly stage.
Write the stage number on the bag with a felt-tip pen, to help you identify the parts when you need them.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 2 - Left front tyre and the cylinder block
Contains parts –
Front tyre Cylinder block (right) Cylinder block (left) Tweezers Type A screws × 5 Type C screws × 3
Take the left front wheel supplied with Stage 1, and insert it into the front tyre, working around the edge, pull the sidewall over the wheel on both sides.
Hold the cylinder block halves, and align the four projections, insert a type C screw into the large hole above the silver diamond-shaped fitting on the cylinder block. Tighten the screw then insert and tighten a second screw.
Take the assembled cylinder block and the cylinder head from the previous stage and align the holes. Fit the cylinder head onto the cylinder block assembly and squeeze the two parts together to ensure that they engage properly. Secure with 4 type A screws in the order shown in the instructions.
Stage complete, keep any unused parts safe.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 3 - Cylinder block front and driver’s seat
Contains parts –
Backrest lever Seat lever Driver’s seat backrest Driver’s seat squab Driver’s seat backrest frame Driver’s seat squab frame Cylinder block front Distributor drive Type E screws × 2 Type D screws × 3
Line up the distributor drive with the matching recess in the cylinder block front and push into place, turn over and secure with a type E screw.
Fit the cylinder block front onto the cylinder block and secure with 2 type D screws.
Insert the two pins on the backrest lever into the holes in the side of the driver’s seat backrest frame and squeeze together. Insert the pins of the seat lever into the corresponding holes in the driver’s seat squab frame. Fit the squab frame to the backrest frame by engaging the hinges and rotate the backrest forward to lock the hinges. Align the pins on the underside of driver’s seat squab with the holes in the squab frame and press down evenly to engage the four pins.
Align the holes on the rear of the driver’s seat backrest with the pins on the front of the backrest frame. Fit the holes over the pins, starting at the bottom and working up. When all the holes and pins are correctly aligned, press the backrest evenly into place on its frame.
Stage complete.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 4 - Cylinder head cover, Carburettor and head cover bolts
Contains Parts –
Cylinder head cover Carburettor Head cover bolts × 12 (one spare) Type B screws × 3 (one spare) Cutters
Hold the cylinder block assembly from Stage 4, with the front end on the left. Align the projections on the three carburettors with the three holes in the side of the block, turn over and secure with two type B screws.
Use the cutters supplied with this stage to remove 11 of the 12 valve cover bolts from the sprue. Be careful not to drop and lose these bolts, which is easily done because they are very small. Fit these to the 11 holes in the valve covers.
Hold the cylinder block assembly and the cylinder head cover and align the projections on the cover with the corresponding holes in the top of the block and push into place.
Align the pins on the valve covers with the corresponding holes in the cylinder head cover and push down evenly on the valve covers until they are sitting flat against the cylinder head cover.
Stage complete, save any unused parts.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 5 - Exhaust manifolds and silencers
Contains parts –
Front exhaust manifold Rear exhaust manifold Silencers × 2 Right mirror Tailpipes × 2
The outer side of the right mirror supplied with this stage has a chrome finish while the inner side is matt. This is because the inner side of the mirror on the real car was coated with anti-glare paint to reduce the risk of the driver being dazzled by reflected sunlight. This feature has been recreated on your model. The mirror glass is covered by a protective film. Leave the film in place for now, and store the mirror away in a marked plastic bag until it is needed.
Take the block and the front manifold (marked “F”), and align the two projections on the manifold with the two holes in the block, push fully into the holes and then do the same for the rear (marked “R”).
Take one of the silencers and insert its cylindrical end into the squared-off end of one of the tailpipes with the longest part of the cutaway facing upwards, then do the same for the second silencer.
Stage complete.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 6 – Right front wheel
Contains parts –
Right front wheel Right front wheel hub nut
The right front wheel and right front wheel hub nut will be used in Stage 7. If you are not ready to work on that stage at the moment store the parts safely in a labelled plastic bag.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 7 – Fitting the right front tyre
Contains parts –
Front tyre Toolbox
Take the right front wheel supplied with Stage 6, and insert it into the front tyre. Work the tyre over the wheel and pull down on both sides.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 8 – Passenger seat
Passenger seat backrest Passenger seat backrest frame Passenger seat squab Passenger seat squab frame Seat lever Backrest lever
Insert the two pins on the backrest lever into the holes in the side of the passenger seat backrest frame and squeeze together. Insert the pins of the seat lever into the corresponding holes in the passenger seat squab frame. Fit the squab frame to the backrest frame by engaging the hinges and rotate the backrest forward to lock the hinges. Align the pins on the underside of the passenger seat squab with the holes in the squab frame and press down evenly to engage the four pins.
Align the holes on the rear of the passenger seat backrest with the pins on the front of the backrest frame. Fit the holes over the pins, starting at the bottom and working up. When all the holes and pins are correctly aligned, press the backrest evenly into place on its frame.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 9 - Carburettor and intake air connector
Contains parts -
Oil pressure sensor Oil filter Caution seal A Intake air connector Long Phillips screwdriver
Remove the front exhaust manifold from the engine block and insert the oil pressure sensor into the hole in the right hand side of the engine. Now take the oil filter and insert it into the hole next to the sensor then refit the front manifold.
Use tweezers to remove caution seal A from its backing paper. Place the seal onto the air intake connector.
Insert the pins projecting from the carburettors into the holes inside the air intake connector and push into place, When viewed from the front, the top of the air intake connector should be at an angle.
Stage complete, save any unused parts
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 10 - Distributor, fuel rail and crankcase vent
Contains parts –
Distributor Distributor shaft Crankcase vent Fuel rail Toyota 2000GT cloth cover (720 x 470mm)
Fit the distributor and the distributor shaft together by inserting the projection of the drive into the corresponding hole in the distributor, then fit this assembly to the matching projection on the engine block.
Locate the hole in the left side of the engine block, under the carburettor assembly and insert the crankcase vent.
Line up the pins (the injectors) on the fuel rail with the corresponding holes in the side of the cylinder head. Push the pins on the fuel rail into the holes in the engine block, they should sit at an angle when fitted correctly.
Stage complete, save any unused parts.stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 11 - Alternator and water pump
Contains parts –
Crankshaft pulley Water pump pulley Alternator fan Water pump Alternator and bracket V belt
Remove the cylinder block front from the engine block. Place the holes in the alternator bracket over the projections on the inside of the cylinder block front. Turn the cylinder block front around while holding the bracket in place. Then take the water pump and align the hole with the pin on the bracket. Hold the hole of the water pump over the pin on the bracket and push the water pump onto the pin.
Hold the alternator bracket in position, and place the cylinder block front back onto the front of the engine and refit with the 2 screws.
Align the D-shaped back of the alternator fan with the matching hole in the alternator and push into place. Align the D-shaped back of the water pump pulley with the D-shaped hole in the water pump and push this into place also.
Fit the crankshaft pulley into place on the engine block front then loop the V belt around the crankshaft pulley and then over the water pump pulley. Make sure that the belt doesn’t get twisted, then pull the belt over the alternator fan pulley.
Check the belt to make sure that it is seated correctly and not twisted.
Stage complete.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 12 - Exhaust centre pipes and primary silencer
Contains parts –
Cross wrench Exhaust centre pipes with primary silencer
Take the exhaust centre pipes assembly and one of the silencers from Stage 5, and hold them with their open sections facing you. Then insert one of the exhaust pipes into the end of the silencer.
Push the end of the exhaust pipe into the silencer as far as it will go and repeat for the second silencer.
Wrap masking tape around the join between the exhaust pipe and silencers.
Stage completestevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 13 - Spark plug leads and number plate
Contains parts –
Number plate frame Double-sided tape Number plate Distributor cap Ignition coil Spark plug leads
Peel the backing from one side of the double-sided tape and stick this to the number plate frame. Remove the backing from the front of the tape and fit the number plate, making sure that the number plate is the right way up and the two long pins on the back of the frame are positioned at the top.
Lay out the spark plug leads, with the thin pins all aligned and the thick pins staggered. The thin pins will be fitted into the distributor cap, and the thick pins will be inserted into the cylinder head. Insert the thick end of the longest lead into the last hole at the rear of the engine then insert the remaining pins, in descending order of lead length (longest to shortest), into the holes in the cylinder head cover, in line with the longest lead.
Insert the pins of the lead holder into the two holes at the front end of the valve covers and push into place. Hold the inserted ends of the leads in place and gently pull the free ends through the holder, gently bending the leads near the inserted ends and taking up most of the slack.
Place the distributor cap in the centre of a square of paper, and draw a line out from each of the six holes in the cap. Then number them, these numbers refer to the those of the leads in the previous step. Insert the pin on the end of the ignition coil lead into the hole in the centre of the distributor cap.
Insert the pin at the end of plug lead 1 into one of the holes in the distributor cap then install the rest of the leads going clockwise in the following order - 5, 3, 6, 2 and then 4 then push the distributor cap onto the top of the distributor.
Stage complete.
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