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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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I've seen people individualise there builds by completely reprinting it to give them a model that is individual to them, I thought about doing this myself with the Mustang but have decided I really like the dark blue That it comes in. In case anyone else is thinking of doing a custom paint job I found a site that has all the colours listed with the various paint codes http://paintref.com/cgi-...el=Mustang&year=1967
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,226 Points: 12,823 Location: ipswich
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Umm...
You mean 'repainting' it?
I'm probably going to stick with the blue too.
I like it.
Roy.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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There is a really good paint company over here that sells lacquer paint which is matched to certain cars.I just ordered some paint for my MFH 1/24 daytona cobra kit.Chekc out Model Car World automotive finishes.I havent used the paint yet, but the reviews say it goes on like a treat and dries instantly.
Carl
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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roymattblack wrote:Umm...
You mean 'repainting' it?
I'm probably going to stick with the blue too.
I like it.
Roy. Ooops auto correct on iPad 
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 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 46 Points: 131 Location: Pennsylvania, U.S.
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Ok! I just got my first subscription in the mail a couple days ago, but I'm now just able to really "grok" the contents. The paint finish on the hood while nice, to my eyes appears to have a bit of orange peel.
To the casual observer, they wouldn't notice this but I'm a stickler for things like paint as I want this to be literally glass smooth by the time it's done.
My question is, does anyone know what type of paint these are painted in? I'm seriously considering clearcoating the entire works with Testor's One Shot Clear that's sold here in the states, then rubbing out and polishing the clearcoat just like a 1:1. I don't want any nasty reactions to the paint. This paint while it's a "lacquer" is not a hot lacquer like some of your automotive stuff.
Any help would be appreciated fellas!
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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The paint on the model is an aqueous type commonly used in modelling. Always a good idea to test anything you have in mind to use on an unseen area of the model first.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 46 Points: 131 Location: Pennsylvania, U.S.
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Ok, that's good to know and yes, that's what I was intending on doing. Perhaps on the underside of the hood or someplace to try it out.
On that note, since the paint is water based, I'd rather use Tamiya's X-22 clear acrylic. That dries rock hard, but it can take a bit to dry unless I put things in a dehydrator.
Thanks for the info about the paint!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Personally I would use an aqueous clear such as Mr Hobby B-501.
Tamiya clear aerosol can 'fry' decals as its not aqueous product, but Tamiya X-22 clear is and would need to be put through an airbrush.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 46 Points: 131 Location: Pennsylvania, U.S.
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Oh yeah, that's what I got! I have several, and for this one since it's so big, I'll be using the big 'ole Badger 150 external mix. :)
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If you have got an orange peel effect then your spraying pressure is either too low, or applying to much paint in one coat. It can be flatted back with very fine paper as long as there is enough paint to do this or you could rub through. I use automotive clear on my cars and bikes, sealing any decals first so they don't 'fry'. If you are uncertain about using automotive clear, then Tomicks advice is spot on as I also use X-22 clear and Mr Hobby. My advice is practice on an old model or even an old can or tub lid, doesn't matter if it goes wrong.
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