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 Rank: Amateur Level 1  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2010 Posts: 31 Points: 86 Location: Bolton Lancs
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Hi guys.. help needed again i think. Just to bring you up to speed, remember i hadnt settled the lower gun deck on the false keel properly ( see previous posts ), well thats all sorted now and deck support timber acquired, along with some spare wood, decks all on again, so i started planking with gusto. All looked good as i got the first row of planks on, and then continued. However, and i think another member may have posted a similar problem, as i have continued through rows 1 to 5, I have had to pack out the first two ribs, 12 & 13 as i added planks. this has resulted in nearly a plank width of packing on row 5, in order to get a nice curve around the bows and prevent the planks flattening between 12 and the bow formers. Hope i am making sense. My worry is that if i keep packing these ribs, i will be miles away from the ribs as i get up towards the top of the bow formers and upper bulkhead. I am chamfering the planks as per instructions, but seem to be going upward but not inward if you catch my drift? I have attched a few pictures in an effort to show you what i mean. Pic 1 : Starboard side showing packing at ribs 12 & 13 Pic 2 : Port side with packing at 12, 13 & bulkhead Pic 3 : Port side with packing Pic 4 : Port side plank 1 from underneath the ship Pic 5 : Starboard side plank 1 also from underneath. I anticipate that i may have to remove the bow planks and fair the bow formers more in order to bring ribs 12 & 13 into play ? PLease tell me there is an easier solution to what i think may become a bigger problem should i continue blindly on. You guys have been a wealth of information and a tower of strength, please can you help a newbie out of a hole........cheers Dave 
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Your right, if you continue the problem will just get bigger, did you actually trial fit a plank to check the lay before deciding to pack out a frame?
Also the packing-out thickness looks way excessive, and if you continue at this rate your going to end up with a huge gap of planking being well away from where they should be seated.
I would strip, re-check the fairing an lie of planking then re-lay, simply because you heading for big problems otherwise.
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2010 Posts: 31 Points: 86 Location: Bolton Lancs
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Thankyou Tomick. Thats what i cant understand really, i did trial plank round the bow formers, but maybe i didnt check enough all the way up. As the underneath photo shows on oneside it started out right but a gap developed and got bigger as i went up. The other side i just presumed that one of the ribs was shy of being in line with the others and would rectify itself as i got further up.
Ah well, this is a learning curve, first wooden ship and all that. Just glad i realised now and not further up. At least the rest of the planking i have done is ok so all is not lost.
Can i just confirm that in rows 1 to 6 of the bow planking, tapering should not be required ?
I will remove the bow planks and fair the formers some more so that ribs 12 & 13 come into line. beggar! Glad i sent for some more timber now . Thanks for the advice........onward and upward.
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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looking at pics 4 and 5 look like back to front you packed the wrong side buy looking at the deck at no12 frame the frame dose not look central check at that Pution with rule from false keel or is it the deck?that needs a bit off
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2010 Posts: 31 Points: 86 Location: Bolton Lancs
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Hi W....... i have checked the frames and they seem okay. May be the deck but everything is at rigt angles to each other
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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your photo no5 the deck is not flush with the frames seams to stick out a few mm from the frame? no12
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2010 Posts: 31 Points: 86 Location: Bolton Lancs
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Sorry Willie ....... I understand now, yes you're right it does... sanded accordingly. I have faired the bow frames more now and the planks seem to sit more on the frames. I think it was partly me trying to get a nice round curve around the bows where the frames go onto the formers and whereas it actually curves tighter than i maybe expected, especially when i try a test plank further up, at the top of the formers. W.ll see.... time to try it again now i think.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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i know what you mean as you say the bow tapers in on the way up if you look at the mag you taper at frame 13 to the point of the bow about 2mm but dont worrieif its less depends on flaring i had some i did not need to touch good luck this time and watch row 11 and 12for the front end decking
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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HI David
I'm glad I found this post before it is to late I have the same issue
with my model, I will have to remove most of the front bow planking and
re-fair from where the bow planks starts to the bow the bow I wasn't happy
with the way the bow planks came to the center, by the way can someone send a
top view of the planks are suppose to look on the bow from plank 1 to 6
Ronald
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Hi Ronald a lot of these posts are at least 7 years old and the chance of them being able to respond is doubtful Martyn Building ?
Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa
Next Build ?
When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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It figures Martyn
thought maybe since David had the same problem and he fixed it he send me
a photo of the fixed problem if not David can anyone else help with a top view of the bow the way it is suppose to look up to date that is, I what I got to do
to fix the problem just thought there was some photos I can go by
Ronald
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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well it seems I inherited David's problem with the messed up bow planking and
was able to remove the first 6 set of planking and now working on removing the
glue residue before I begin to fair the bow area any one has any ideas on how
go about checking it for curvature so it will correct all the way to the top
thank you
Ronald
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I need you to post up some pics of your bow so I can see where the problem may lay... This is an excellent article for you to download on the principles of hull fairing. https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=19140
Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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yes I have the second article somewhere and even made the sanding devise for the bow did you get my PM I will send photos of the bow ronald305 attached the following image(s):
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Hi Ronald, yes I go your PM and the only way I can view pictures is if you post them on the forum. It appears to me you haven't faired the bow enough and is the reason why you are having problems. When using your test plank the most important thing you need to achieve is to have the plank sitting across the full width of the frame with a smooth transition from one frame to the next so your plank gives a nice smooth curve round the bow. Take a look at this pic, notice how the test plank flows from one frame to the next at sits flat across the full width of the frames... Every plank you fit around the bow should sit on the frames in the same way. Regards Alan Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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I think I found the problem Alan going over the bow there is a small gap between rib 13&14 near the second deck on the left side not so much on the right I might be wrong let me know
Ronald
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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yes you are right which is why there is a gap on one side and a fine gap on the other side, so you think either course sand
paper or a wood rasp
Ronald
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Hi Ronald, personally I wouldn't go down the route of using any kind of wood rasp unless it was a fine one, would likely shred the frame rather than shape it. My preference is to us Permagrit blocks, more information on these can be found here.... https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=17156
Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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yes I wasn't sure about using a rasp any way I did make a sanding devise like the one shown in the article you sent me but don't like the way it came out the
two ends are not high enough or something I do have those sponge type of sanding pads are they ok to use
Ronald
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You can try the sanding sponges but I think you'll find it slow going with those....  .. Ultimately, it is a task you should take your time with if you wish to get the best possible results. For me, there is nothing better than the Permagrit block.... Regards Alan
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