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Caulking the deck planks Options
daffy09
#1 Posted : 04 March 2011 15:54:54

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Hi all!
I've recently been looking through various web sites about model ship building and found a rather interesting one by some russian enthuiast (I think his name was Dr. Mike or something like that). Anyway there were some trailers from his DVD and one of them gives a very interesting tip for the caulking between the deck planks.

Rather than using the black marker pen as suggested in our build, what he does is to mix black ink with the glue to simulate the effect.

I thought this was a good idea and was wondering what the general concensus of opinion is with you chaps out there about it before giving it a go myself.
Happy building
Daffy09
karl1113
#2 Posted : 04 March 2011 16:02:40

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hi daffy,what an interesting idea,worried a bit about it spreading to the suface,think I'll try it out on some scrap wood first.
Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory
Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat.

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Venice
#3 Posted : 04 March 2011 16:02:56

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I have not got as far as planking on Victory yet, but I am using a marker pen between the planks of my Endeavour build and am very happy with the result so don't really see the point in making more work for myself than necessary.
Present Build:

H.M.S. Victory
H.M. Bark Endeavour


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It cant be that bad, what do you mean it's sinking
riff-raff
#4 Posted : 08 March 2011 21:01:53

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I use black electrical tape for the caulking. I don't rely on the stickyness of the tape though.

I cut the desired length and then cut it down to a 2mm strip. I glue this onto one plank. The glue the next plank to the tape. making sure the overlap is on the "seen" surface.

i.e. plank - tape - plank - tape etc until I have completed a section of planking. The I sand the excess tape so that all excess is removed. The advantage of this is you can sand the surface as much as you want and it won't "run". You can also use any stain you like for the same reason.

It can be a bit fiddley, as I use superglue but I think the results are well worth it.
You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.

Built:
Golden Star, English Brig. RMS Titanic. (Academy 1/400 Centenary Anniversary Edition) Revell-Monogram 1/48 B-29 Superfortress 1:8 Baron von Richthofen's Fokker Tri-plane. HMS Victory. Nelsons Flag Ship. Sultan Arab Dhow. Artesania Latina Carmen II. The Battleship Yamato. Model Airways Wright Flyer 1:16 Scale. Trumpeter Bismarck 1/200. HMS Sovereign of the Seas. The Black Pearl.


Building:HMS Surprisel. Hatchette U96. Soleil Royal.
Dontshootme
#5 Posted : 08 March 2011 21:11:32

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Might give that a trial on a sample riff-raff,it sounds good.
I,m fairly regularly up your way as well...sis lives in Louth as did bro till he he moved to South Somercotes just before xmas.I lived in Welton le Marsh many many years ago.
Rob Nolli Illigitimi Carborundum!!!
Current Builds:HMS Victory,SV Thermopylae
Atholm
#6 Posted : 09 March 2011 08:51:06

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Hi Daffy09

In Milton Roth's book "Ship Modeling from Ste to Stern" he describes a similar method but uses black poster powder. The warning in his description is do not try to remove the excess glue squeezed out of the joints until it is completely dry and then don't sand the excess off but use a scrapper to remove the bead.
daffy09
#7 Posted : 09 March 2011 14:27:49

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Hi Atholm,
Thanks for that tip. My first attempt on a test piece made quite a mess when I tried to sand it down. Probably didn't leave it long enough for the glue to set. Hmmmm! never mind I'll put that down to experience, maybe I'll just settle for the simplest idea of the marker pen or try Riff-Raff's method with the electrical tape.
Thanks again for wising me up on thatBigGrin
Happy building
daffy09
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