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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/03/2010 Posts: 194 Points: 446 Location: Gloucestershire
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Hi All, Iam having trouble bending planks for the stern, they all seem to brake i have tried the plank bender that came with the tools that broke, next was soaking in hot water it bent but when i tried to twist it guess what it broke, then i tried steaming over a hot kettle i just can't seem to get the twist right and i just don't know if iam going to have enough planking left to finnish the ship. Anyone have any suggestions? Glen  Roger the Cabin Boy
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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/03/2011 Posts: 34 Points: 98
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Iwas the same, the plank bedr with the kit I found useless, some people have used curling tongs, but I used the wya saintsman123 did it with some thread and left them to dry overnight, it wasn't perfect but it almost gave the right curve, I just made lots of different sizes of curves and used the ones thta fitted best for the bit I was at. H'es got a picture on his diary I think
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/03/2010 Posts: 194 Points: 446 Location: Gloucestershire
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Thanks underhill will give it a go. Roger the Cabin Boy
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With regards to bending the lower hull planks, I have found that if you shape the plank first, leaving a bit on for adjusting, then soak the section of the plank that needs bending for about 20mins in cold water it will become quite soft and with light pressure at regular intervals approx 4mm from the pliers type bender that comes with the tool kit.
If the bend is not as radical as you need repeat the process but crimp over the mark already made to form an X. The angle that you crimp at will also slightly twist the plank in that direction, as the planks are quite soft when wet a small amount of lateral bend can be acheived by very gently manipulating the plank between thumb and forefinger of both hands, if the plank feels as if it is going to split leave to one side and do another one they can be used in other places!.
You can also resoak the planks and repeat the whole proceedure, eventualy you can get the plank to coil, just be careful, there's no rush and once you have got a few of them to bend as you desire it becomes easier.
Also some of the planks bend far easier than others try and use the ones that have a slightly soft velvety feel, or however you wish to describe them, usualy the lighter coloured ones.
Hope that helps Steve..
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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Hi Glen,
Just a thought. Have you tried Tomick's idea of turning the blade round in the plank bending tool so that instead of using the 'cutting' edge, the flat edge is used.
I found this was the way to go and have used the tool this way throughout the build with no problems. Admittedly, those compound bends at the stern were a little tricky and did require some soaking.
A lot of us have had problems with this devillish part of the build, in my case I didn't taper the planks enough so they ended up with a small amount of 'clinkering', nothing the sanding block couldn't sort out though.
Zeptrader's page might help you as well. He has given us a sort of 'troubleshooting' list for various parts of the build which is very informative and well worth a look!
Hope this helps and happy building
daffy09
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/03/2010 Posts: 194 Points: 446 Location: Gloucestershire
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Thanks for that Steve, will give that ago as well. Roger the Cabin Boy
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/03/2010 Posts: 194 Points: 446 Location: Gloucestershire
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Thanks Daffy brill will try that. Roger the Cabin Boy
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/03/2011 Posts: 34 Points: 98
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daffy09 wrote:Hi Glen,
Just a thought. Have you tried Tomick's idea of turning the blade round in the plank bending tool so that instead of using the 'cutting' edge, the flat edge is used.
I found this was the way to go and have used the tool this way throughout the build with no problems. Admittedly, those compound bends at the stern were a little tricky and did require some soaking.
A lot of us have had problems with this devillish part of the build, in my case I didn't taper the planks enough so they ended up with a small amount of 'clinkering', nothing the sanding block couldn't sort out though.
Zeptrader's page might help you as well. He has given us a sort of 'troubleshooting' list for various parts of the build which is very informative and well worth a look!
Hope this helps and happy building
daffy09 I wish I had known about that tip, all I succeeded in doing was cutting almost through the planks. Maybe there should be a sticky with Tomick's tips, especially if some tips have been posted a while ago
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 369 Points: 1,150 Location: Broadstairs
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I found that using the blade for the stern planking and only just cutting into the plank (not too deep, that's when it can cause the plank to break), then soaking for 10-minutes makes it pliable enough to traverse the frames without breaking. I also found that I might have taken too much off when fairing the hull and have had to build them up again, this can cause prmature breaking.
For the bow, I turn the blade and use the blank side and just crimp the planks and I have found this method has helped me in getting round those problems, hope it helps you.
TIS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/03/2010 Posts: 194 Points: 446 Location: Gloucestershire
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Thanks alot Tis, I made a jig to bend the stern planks last night, soaked them then clamed them to it and it also gave me the twist at the end, so things are looking up. Thanks again Glen Roger the Cabin Boy
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/03/2010 Posts: 270 Points: 837 Location: Nr. Dartford,
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Hi All,
I prefer the soak and hot bend over a soldering iron clamped in a vice. By rocking the wet plank over the soldering iron you can get the right bend and twist. Only broke 2 planks and one of those was when dry offering up to cut the length plus a bit. This process produces steam within the plank and makes it very flexible. If it dries before you get enough bend it can always be rewetted. Using the soldering iron is cheaper than £30 for a pucker hot bender which I do not feel is justified.
The technique is to wipe and rock the plank across the soldering iron applying gentle pressure gradually increasing as the curve increases. Try it against the boat and increase the curve where required. In this way one can get a fit within a mm or so which is easily held with the pins.
PVA glue has no problem with sticking damp planks. Leave pins in over night before removing or trimming.
Happy planking.
Laury
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