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3x MP4-23 Options
Warthog
#41 Posted : 02 May 2011 19:19:52

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Hi Stu


If you have done decals on other kits then basically the process is much the same. Get yourself a bottle of either microsol decal softner or Revell's decal softner. Both around £4 and will go a long way.

First of all draw the outline of the part your going to cover and then transfer onto the back of the carbon decal sheet but remember to mirror it as the fibre effect will be on the side that needs to be covered..

Cut out place on the part so you know it fits well.. don't worry about overhang as this will be taken care of later..

Then as other decals, submerge the decal that you have just cut out for approx 10 -15 seconfs in warm water... Note that the hotter the water the quicker the decal will come away from the backing but we want to avoid this happening... just enough for it to slide about is good.

Make sure that any dust is removed from the wing or part your putting this onto and then slide the decal pulling away the backing so that it covers like a blanket.. slow and easy ok.


Now the fun... this takes time and patience and if you have that then i would suggest testing a small cut out part on something that has raised or resesed areas so you can see how this works.

Start by dipping a good new size 1 brush into the decal soft and apply to the top of the decal you have just placed and start to move the solution around the area. If its a big area then cover as much as you can but remember that carbon fibre is done in many peaces so in effect it does not have to be uniform in looks but what you may well say "authentic" as possible.

Keep working the solution into the decal but don't push down hard, just enough to know its working.. after about 5-10 mins depending on room temp you will notice that the decal will start to go soft and this is where you need to make sure its in the correct possition and has no creases.. these can be easily removed by putting the brush under the decal and "lifting" the crease out. Carry on with the prosses until your happy with the finished product..

Leave to dry say over night..

Now to remove any excess decal from the edge or some that might have gone onto the "Silver" topside of the wing you will need either premium sanding sticks from Squadron or you wifes/partners nail pollishing file...
(this is the one that is smooth as a nats ar=e that they take sooooo long using because its ultra fine) now gentley start to file the edges of the wing so that it "cuts" through the decal giving you a nice line and finish...

To me it sounds easy but first time its nerving but practice like I said on some thing with a lot of detail so you can see what you need to do.

When it comes to the suspension, I guess its a bit easier as you can wrap the decal around the "Struts" rather than a top and bottom decal.

Shame we can't upload video's as i could do one for here.. might do one and load it upto facetube!!!

Anyway thats it Stu and anyone else reading this needs advice or help then please feel free to ask.. I've made loads and spent fortunes on mistakes but well worth it in my opinion..

PS: I would add pics of the process but its not something you can do and take breaks as you will see..

Spencer
stu0602
#42 Posted : 02 May 2011 21:22:37

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Cheeers Warthog, i'll think i may try a few practice goes like you advised before i decide. Where was the best place to get the decals from? It was 1:12th scale you got wasn't it?
Warthog
#43 Posted : 02 May 2011 21:27:30

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Hi Stu

Got a new set from Heroboy.com... 1:12 Hi-Definition Composite Fiber Decals 1512 (SKU1512) = £5.21+VAT and Postage
stu0602
#44 Posted : 02 May 2011 21:40:11

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How many sheets do you get? or how many do i need to order to complete the build in your opinion?
Warthog
#45 Posted : 02 May 2011 21:45:18

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Not seen the size of these sheets but I've used one already from a previous build.. (the revell Ferrari) so 2 sheets is best mate.. Don't want to run out if you've made a few mistakes and you will make them lol
stu0602
#46 Posted : 02 May 2011 21:52:06

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Just tried to put 2 sheets in my basket and theres only 1 left. I think someone above is trying to tell me to do a standard build!!
Warthog
#47 Posted : 02 May 2011 21:53:58

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Just order the one for now and get another later.. if you decide not to use or go ahead then your not out of pocket ... your call lol.. it's giving me plenty to do between issues mind!!!
stu0602
#48 Posted : 02 May 2011 22:18:31

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1 sheet ordered and another practice sheet ordered in another colour. Cheers for your help Warthog. I'll let you now when i start.
Warthog
#49 Posted : 02 May 2011 22:28:04

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Good luck mate and look forward to seeing how you get on.. you asked about lacquer too which I forgot to mention.. I used Halfords Clear lacquer but mast off the silver coating on the wings or any other paint as it will turn it grey... this is very important ok
MWG
#50 Posted : 04 May 2011 22:49:10

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Hi Warthog,

Your build is truly outstanding!!!!!
A pleasure to watch and learn.

Cheers
MWG
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

Warthog
#51 Posted : 05 May 2011 00:16:13

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Why thank you MWG.. In a state of limbo at the mo with lack of parts put been spending a lot of time trying to get the silver right before I apply it to the nose section. Had a few disasters but thats the fun of modeling.. practice, practice then practice some more lol

Will hopefully have a few more updates soon as some new stuff arrived in the post..

Spence
MWG
#52 Posted : 05 May 2011 00:20:48

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I like the idea of waiting for parts, in fact saving them up as I have done on the Victory and DB5 has been a great advantage, because I can learn massively from people like yourself. Thank you for that!!!!

MWG
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

Warthog
#53 Posted : 05 May 2011 00:25:23

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Once again your welcome BigGrin .. as like i said in my decal post at the top of this page..i'll try to do a few "step by step" pages and do's and dont's..
Warthog
#54 Posted : 07 May 2011 23:08:14

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Ok I've been trying my hand at a few different attempts at "Chrome" on the nose section and although i've not fired up my air brush as of yet, I do have a bottle of "Testors" Chrome Metalic to try out. In the meantime I tried something just to see how it came out and I'll leave you all to guess what it is that I used. If I succeed with this effect then I'm going to have a major job on my hands doing the whole model with this stuff!!! Anyway I hope you like the effect so far and any suggestions or comments will be appreciated...
Warthog attached the following image(s):
Chrome leaf 1.jpg
Chrome Leaf 2.jpg
Chrome Leaf 3.jpg
kryten2b
#55 Posted : 09 May 2011 10:15:35

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Hi Warthog - great looking build & that new paint finish looks fantastic.Drool

Can you clear up a mystery for me please - I have been modelling for years & have never heard of decal softener!
what does it do, I read your post on using it, but it doesn't really answer the basic question - whyConfused

Is it something you only need to use on those 3rd party decals, or should I be getting some for all the included water slide decals too?

Thanks & keep up the great work

Jerry
Well spin my nipple-nuts & send me to Alaska

Current Builds:
McLaren MP4-23Finished
007's Aston Martin DB5Finished
Millennium Falcon
R2-D2
BTTF Delorean (Maybe)
Warthog
#56 Posted : 09 May 2011 11:16:42

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Hi Jerry and thx for your comments..

The decal softner allows the decal to become more "flexible" or soft rather than rigid like some.. you apply the decal in the normal way but use the "Softner" to allow the decal to soften up more and kind of sink into any recesses in the plastic or contours that the decal might have difficulty in following. It also helps with adhesion and removal of the "white" film like effect around the edges. It can be used on most if not all waterslide decals but not sure about "home made" ones using a printer and decal paper..

Hope this helps?

Spencer
kryten2b
#57 Posted : 09 May 2011 13:13:37

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Spencer,

Thanks that clears up that mystery, I shall definitely get some on order.
BigGrin

Jerry
Well spin my nipple-nuts & send me to Alaska

Current Builds:
McLaren MP4-23Finished
007's Aston Martin DB5Finished
Millennium Falcon
R2-D2
BTTF Delorean (Maybe)
Warthog
#58 Posted : 10 May 2011 18:56:44

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Here are a couple of photo's using Alclad2 Chrome.. I must say this is the one I am going for as the photo's don't do it any justice...

I used my Aztec airbrush and compressor at 15 psi to get the best finish. I could probably get it better but i think i might quit while i'm happy with this one lol..

Warthog attached the following image(s):
Alclad2 nose.jpg
Alclad2 nose2.jpg
Alclad2 Nose3.jpg
Alclad2 Nose4.jpg
glen2011
#59 Posted : 10 May 2011 19:36:31

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Hi Spencer, that looks really good, i used to work for a company that chrome plated plastic, been in touch and going to see what we can do[poss black chrome] as i think it would be more like the real thing then silver paint is. I take it your now going to have to re do all the work you did on the front wing ?
When i look at the carbon on your front wing it looks black, i have used black on pewter and it looks to gray to me !! which one have you used ?
Keep up the good work
Warthog
#60 Posted : 10 May 2011 21:23:20

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Hi Glen

As you can see from these pictures I should'nt have to do anything to the wings as I have been aiming to get as close a match as possible. I think I have managed that BigGrin

As for your carbon decals you will have to let me know which ones your odered?? so I can see. Give them a coat of Tamiya "smoke" to dull it down a bit.

All parts are loose fitting btw
Warthog attached the following image(s):
Loose fit chrome A2.jpg
Loose fit chrome2 A2.jpg
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