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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Star Wars R2-D2 Droid
R2-D2 or Artoo-Detoo (R2 for short) is a fictional character in the Star Wars universe created by George Lucas.
An astromech droid (referred to in the novel as a 'thermocapsulary dehousing assister'), R2-D2 is a major character in all Star Wars films, and is also the first character to appear in the franchise. Along with his protocol droid companion C-3PO, he joins or supports Anakin Skywalker, Luke Skywalker, Princess Leia, Padmé Amidala, and Obi-Wan Kenobi in various points in the movie saga.
The name is said to derive from when Lucas was making one of his earlier films, American Graffiti. Sound editor Walter Murch states that he is responsible for the utterance which sparked the name for the droid. Murch asked for Reel 2, Dialog Track 2, in the abbreviated form "R-2-D-2". Lucas, who was in the room and had dozed off while working on the script for Star Wars, momentarily woke when he heard the request and, after asking for clarification, stated that it was a "great name" before falling immediately back to sleep.
R2-D2 stands for Second Generation Robotic Droid Series-2, according to a Star Wars encyclopedia published after the release of the film Star Wars Episode IV: A New Hope.
Along with the Star Wars films, R2-D2 makes non-canon cameo appearances in several other films, such as Star Trek and Star Trek into Darkness, seen flying in debris, Close Encounters of the Third Kind on the underside of the alien ship, Raiders of the Lost Ark, seen on the wall of the room containing the Ark, and in Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen, seen flying among rubble and debris in the sky. R2 was desired to be a main character in The Lego Movie, but due to Disney acquiring the Star Wars rights in 2012, and refusing to let the studio use him, his role was cut from the movie.
Sadly, Kenny Baker who starred as R2-D2 in six Star Wars films, passed away in 2016 aged 81 after a long illness.
R2-D2 was inducted into the Robot Hall of Fame in 2003. The Smithsonian Institution included R2-D2 in its list of 101 objects that made America.
Build the ultimate working R2-D2 droid
1:2 scale
Width 28cm x Height 48cm
Advanced & Autonomous Robot.
Interactive intelligence.
Multiple modes and functions.
Reacts to Human presence.
Responds to trigger words and simple voice commands.
Diecast metal & Plastic internal chassis.
Microphone & Speaker.
Video/Still Camera takes and stores snapshots & short video clips.
Rotating head.
R2 is supplied as "factory finish" so that once assembled, you can choose to retain the factory finish, or give him your own weathered appearance.
Concealed light saber - Will pop up on demand from the pneumatic ejection tube in his head.
Wi-Fi enabled through the dedicated R2-D2 App.
Sound, Heat & Motion sensors.
Hologram projection plays Princess Leia & Skywalker messages (displayed onto any nearby flat surface).
Dual control (Human or AI).
Moves forward & backward, spins on his axis and avoids obstacles.
Communicates via authentic chirps, whistles and coloured light displays
Extend on command - R2-D2 can extend his spacecraft linkage and control arms on command, and they also operate when R2-D2 is in autonomous ‘AI’ mode. The flaps on his body conceal hidden droid manipulator arms and probes, which you can extend at will.
Battery Charger included.
High capacity battery (not included), purchase information will be made available.
Low battery alert light.
Controllable from a SmartPhone or Tablet (Android or IOS compatible) via Bluetooth or App - the R2-D2 App will be available towards the end of the collection once your R2-D2 is ready to be remotely controlled - (App is fee free).
R2-D2 can also be controlled via Bluetooth.
Model complete in 100 issues
https://youtu.be/4LA7tZXliQ0
Disney/LucasFilm licensed product
Webpage: https://www.deagostini.c...s/build-your-own-R2-D2/
Official video build: https://www.youtube.com/...phYZW9OUKndCE_wekwtnEGN
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Issue 1 - R2-D2’s Head and Right Leg
Parts with this Issue: LED Cluster for Processor State Indicator, LED Cluster Power Lead, Fixing Screws x 3, LED Cluster Mounting, Processor State Indicator Lens, Processor State Indicator Faceplate, Primary Photoreceptor Faceplate, Right Shoulder Plate, Fixing Screws x 6, Screwdriver. Please note: The two black fixing screws indicated in the issue 1 parts list are not included with this issue.
Fit the LED cluster into its mounting so that the three-pin socket fits into the rectangular hole in the mounting and the three holes on the cluster line up with the matching screw holes in the mounting, as shown in Step 1.
Holding the assembly together, drive one of the smaller black screws into each of the three holes just enough to hold the cluster in place. Do not overtighten the screws or you may crack the mounting.
Undo the twist of wire holding the power lead together.
LED Connections – The rear of the LED cluster has a three-pin socket that fits through the rectangular hole in the mounting. This connects the cluster to the internal wiring.
Compare the plugs on each end of the lead. The smaller plug (as shown in Step 4) fits into the socket in the LED cluster and the other one will be used to connect the cluster to the control circuit.
Press the smaller plug on the end of the power lead into the socket, making sure you get the plug the right way round so that it locks into place, as shown in the inset photo of Step 5.
Step 6 shows how the assembly should look.
This issue is now complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a labelled bag for future use.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Issue 2 – R2-D2’s Right Leg
Parts with issue: Stabiliser, Lubrication Fittings x 2, Hydraulic Arm Coupler, Cap, Hydraulic Arm Piston, Hydraulic Arm Shaft, Right Leg Outer Plate.
Collect the parts from this issue, together with the right shoulder plate and silver screws from Issue 1 as shown in Step 1.
Take the stabiliser and align it with the slot in the right should plate, making sure it is the right way round, as seen in Step 2. Press the two small lugs on the back of the stabiliser into the matching holes in the shoulder plate.
Turn the assembly over and insert two of the silver screws through the holes in the back of the shoulder plate into the lugs of the stabiliser. Tighten them enough to hold the stabiliser firmly in place.
Take one of the lubrication fittings and align it with the upper recess in the shoulder plate, ensuring that the pin on the back matches the shape of the keyhole slot in the middle of the recess. Press the fitting into place.
Turn the assembly over and use another screw to hold the part in place. Then repeat Step 4 to add the second lubrication fitting. The shoulder plate should now look as shown in the second photo in Step 5.
The hydraulic arm piston has a ‘D’ shaped hole to fit the end of the hydraulic arm shaft. Put a spot of super glue in the hole, then press the arm piston fully onto the arm shaft, as shown in the second photo in Step 6.
Liquid super glue is very viscous which can be tricky to apply small amounts. Use a cocktail stick to apply the glue or use Superglue gel.
Fit the two small posts on the back of the hydraulic arm shaft into the matching the holes in the centre of the right leg outer plate, making sure you get the assembly the right way round as shown in Step 7.
Turn the assembly over and use two of the silver screws to fix the hydraulic arm shaft to right leg outer plate.
The small cap has a pin that fits the hole in the hydraulic arm coupler. Put a spot of super glue on the pin, then press the cap into the arm coupler fully so it ends up as shown in the second photo in Step 9.
Align the slot on the side of the hydraulic arm coupler with the flats on the end of the hydraulic arm piston as shown in the inset photo in Step 10. Put a spot of super glue in the slot, slide the hydraulic arm coupler onto it, then press the parts firmly together until the glue sets.
To see how R2-D2’s leg will go together, you can take the shoulder plate assembly from Step 5 and test-fit the posts on the back into the matching holes in the right leg outer plate.
This issue is now complete. The shoulder plate will not be fitted permanently until later, so take care that it isn’t dislodged by accident.
Carefully store any remaining parts in a labelled bag for future use.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Issue 3 – R2-D2’s Right Leg and Head Features
Parts with this Issue: Right Leg Outer Casing, Primary Photoreceptor Extension, Primary Photoreceptor Lens, Control Circuit Board with Test Buttons.
Take the leg assembly that you assembled in Stage 2, together with the right leg outer casing provided with this Issue.
Align the leg outer casing with the matching recess in the centre of R2-D2’s leg, noting the six small mounting holes in the white moulding.
Press the six pins on the back of the leg outer casing into the corresponding holes, being careful not to foul the metal hydraulic arm parts in the middle.
Take the faceplate from Issue 1 and the lens provided this time. This has protective film on both sides, so if you take it off, be careful not to scratch the surface.
Align the lens with the hole in the faceplate, making sure that the curve faces outwards. You can test fit it now to see the effect, but it will not be retained in place until Stage 10.
Align the primary photoreceptor extension with the edge of the faceplate, noting the rectangular slot in the faceplate and the corresponding tab on the extension (as shown in Step 6).
Press the tab firmly into the slot to complete the test-fitting for this stage and see what the faceplate will look like.
Take the processor state indicator that you assembled in Stage 1 and the circuit board provided this time.
Align the plug on the end of the lead attached to the state indicator with the socket marked OUT (as shown in Step 9).Note which way up the plug goes, matching the rib on the top with the slot in the socket.Press the plug into the socket until it clicks into place.
That completes this Stage. You will be able to connect up the state indicator and test it in Stage 4.
Carefully store any remaining parts in a labelled bag for future use.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Issue 4 – R2-D2’s Right Leg and Battery Box.
Parts with this Issue: Battery Box, Right Ankle Plate, Leg Pivot Cover.
Take the right ankle plate and metal leg pivot cover from this Issue, as well as the leg assembly that you put together temporarily in Stage 3.If you look at the back of the pivot cover, you will see two ‘tangs’ on the casting, which correspond with two notches in the circular recess in the outer leg plate (as shown in step 2).Align the tangs with the notches and fit the pivot cover into the recess. It uses a bayonet-type fitting, which allows the pivot cover to be removed at any time later on.Twist the pivot cover in the direction indicated in Step 4 until the tangs lock against the two stops in the white plastic moulding.
Align the ankle plate with the lower end of the leg assembly, noting the two pins that match the large holes in the main outer leg plate (as shown in Step 5).Align the pins and press the ankle plate firmly into place. (As with other parts, it will be fixed permanently later on in the assembly.)
Take the battery box from this Issue, the processor state indicator assembly that you put together in Stage 3 and three AA batteries.Align the plug on the end of the battery box lead with the socket on the circuit board marked POWER.Make sure that the two barbs (as shown in Step 9) are on top of the plug, and press it into the socket until it clicks firmly into place.
Undo the screw at the end of the battery box and remove it completely.Press the casing at the point marked OPEN and slide it in the direction shown in Step 11 to open the battery box.Fit the AA batteries, making sure that the terminals are aligned correctly (as shown in Step 12). Then refit the cover removed in Step 11, followed by the screw removed in Step 10.
Switch the battery box on, then press the switches marked S1 and S2 in turn to check that the indicator LED changes to the correct colour (S1 should be BLUE and S2 RED).Switch the battery box OFF when not in use to conserve battery power.
This Issue is now complete.
Carefully store any remaining parts in a labelled bag for future use.
arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Issue 5 Contains: Dome Top Plate, Bearing, Bearing Retainer, Dome Frame, Screws & Nuts.
Start by taking the dome top plate, bearing, bearing retainer and two of the shorter silver screws.The top of the dome top plate has a central moulding shaped like a keyhole, as shown in Step 1. The bottom has a plain circular recess which is the same size as the bearing.Press the bearing firmly into the recess, making sure that it goes in straight and is firmly seated against the base of the recess.To prevent the bearing from coming out of the recess you need to screw the retainer to the two holes indicated in Step 4.Fit the retainer over the bearing and use one of the silver screws to screw one end of it to one of the holes indicated in Step 4.Use another screw to fix the other end of the retainer to the hole on the opposite side.
Turn the assembly over and align the triangular pointer on the dome top plate with the matching pointer on the dome frame, as shown in Step 7. Fit the locating pin under the pointer on the dome frame into the hole in the rim of the top plate. This will align the fixing holes in the two components.Take one of the fixing nuts provided and carefully fit it into one of the hexagonal recesses over the fixing holes in the dome frame.Holding the nut in place with a fingertip, turn the assembly over and insert one of the longer silver screws through the corresponding fixing hole in the dome top plate, so that you can screw it into the nut.Repeat Steps 8 and 9 with another nut and screw to attach the other hole in the frame to the edge of the top plate.
This Issue is now complete.
Carefully store any remaining parts in an issue labelled bag for future use.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Issue 6 Contains: LCD Screen Power Lead, LCD Housing, LCD Inner Frame, LCD Screen, Mounting Bracket.
The main diagram at the top of the assembly guide shows how the four main components fit together. In addition to all the parts with this issue, collect four of the 6mm black screws from Issue 5, the battery box that came with issue 4 and the test board from Issue 3.Take the inner frame and the LCD housing. Align the parts as shown in Step 2, noting that the clip indicated is longer than the one at the other end.
Press the two parts gently together so that the moulded clips at each end of the LCD housing fit into the matching sockets in the inner frame (as can be seen in Step 4).Take the LCD screen and align it with the back of the assembly from Step 3. It will only fit in the direction shown in Step 4.Press the parts together so that the three black tabs fit into the notches in the circuit board and the holes in the corners line up.
Take the mounting bracket and align it with the assembly from Step 5 so that the large notch will fit over the white socket.Press the assembly onto the mounting bracket so that the three tabs around the circuit board fit into the matching notches in the bracket and the holes in all four corners line up.Insert a fixing screw through one of the corner holes in the bracket and gently tighten it to hold the assembly together.Repeat for all four corners to complete the assembly.
Take the LCD screen power lead and press it’s connector into the white socket on the back of the board noting that it only fits one way round as shown in the inset picture in Step 10.
Testing the LCD screen.
You can test the LCD display using the same circuit board and battery box that you used to test the LED processor state indicator in Stage 4. If you haven’t already done so, unplug the lead from the processor state indicator from the socket marked OUT and replace it with the connector on the LCD screen power lead. Connect the battery box to the POWER socket, make sure it is turned ON, then press the button marked S2 to check that the diagnostic display LCD cycles through a pattern of coloured dots as shown in the picture at the end of this Issue.
This Issue is now complete.
Carefully store any remaining parts in an issue labelled bag for future use.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Issue 7 Contains: Dome Frame x 2, Hinge (2 parts), Screws, Nuts & Leg Details.
Start by taking the assembly from Stage 5, the two new frames and four more of the silver screws and nuts you used to fit the frame in Stage 5.Position one of the frames as shown in Step 2, aligning its screw holes with the holes in the dome top plate. Press the locating pin underneath the frame into the hole in the top plate.Take one of the fixing nuts and carefully fit it into one of the hexagonal recesses over the screw holes in the frame.Holding the nut in place with a fingertip, turn the assembly over and tighten a screw into the nut.
Repeat Steps 3 and 4 to fasten the other hole in the frame to the metal casting.Fit the other frame beside the one you have just attached.Attach the frame to the metal casting with a screw and nut in the same way as in Steps 2-4.Attach the other hole in the frame to the metal casting with the final screw and nut.
R2-D2’d Right Ankle Fitting.
Take all six metal castings and two of the screws supplied this time.Fit one of the plain rings over the stepped end of one of the larger cylindrical piece.Press one of the end caps into the end of the assembly, making sure that the two lugs indicated in Step3 fit into the notches in the larger cylindrical piece.Holding the assembly together, use the magnetic tip of the screwdriver to pick up a screw and fit it into the central hole in the other end of the larger cylindrical piece.Tighten the screw to hold the parts together firmly.Repeat all five Steps to assemble the second set of components. You will see how to attach them in the next Stage.
This Issue is now complete.
Carefully store any remaining parts in an issue labelled bag for future use.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Issue 8 contains – Right Ankle Detail, Dome Frames, Ring Frames, Ring Frame connector.
Extending the Head chassis
Start by taking the assembly from Issue 7, the two new frames and four more of the silver screws and nuts you used to fit the earlier frames.Position the dome frame, aligning its screw holes with the holes in the metal casting. Press the locating pin underneath the frame into the hole in the casting.Take one of the fixing nuts and carefully fit it into one of the hexagonal recesses over the screw holes in the frame.
Holding the nut in place with a fingertip, turn the assembly over and tighten a screw into the nut.Fasten the other hole to the metal casting, then fit the other frame beside the one you have just attached.Attach the frame to the metal casting with a screw and nut in the same manner as before.Attach the other hole in the frame to the casting with the final screw and nut.
Starting the Top ring.
Take all three metal parts supplied this time, together with two of the shorter silver screws supplied with Issue 5 - Note: Do Not use the longer silver screws supplied in Issue 7 as stated in the instructions at Step 1 of Issue 8.The ends of the two parts of the ring frame have dovetail joints that fit together.Press the two ring frame parts together and fit the ring frame connector across the underside of the joint.Fit one of the screws through the end hole in one of the ring frames and screw it into the threaded hole in the connector.Add a second screw to hold the parts together firmly.
R2-D2’s Right Ankle Fitting.
Start by taking the two assemblies from Issue 7, together with the right ankle detail from this Issue.You will see that there are five flanges inside the metal casting. Align these with one end of the ankle detail.Slide the metal casting onto the ankle detail so that the central flange slides into the slot in the plastic moulding. Fit the other metal casting onto the other end of the ankle detail.
Take the right ankle plate, which you temporarily fitted to the leg in Issue 4. Align the assembly with it, noting how the four round lugs and two flat tabs match up with the holes and slots in the ankle plate.Press the assembly firmly into place.Holding the assembly together, turn the ankle plate over and screw one of the black screws provided with Issue 7 into the fixing hole. Add a second screw to the other hole to hold the parts together firmly.To see the finished effect, refit the ankle plate to the base of the leg as you did in Issue 4. This is not fixed permanently yet.
This Issue is now complete.
Carefully store any remaining parts in an issue labelled bag for future use.
You can view the official video builds for R2-D2 here-
https://www.youtube.com/...phYZW9OUKndCE_wekwtnEGN arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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