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 Rank: Vice-Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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This is awesome, I love your additions to this build! Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Thanks Michal, pleased you like what I'm doing and thanks for looking in on my build, very much appreciated.  
Looking forward to seeing more of your Porsche Carrera GT build, you're doing a very nice job of that I must say, well done. 
Kev 
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 Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/08/2010 Posts: 2,771 Points: 8,344 Location: Brighton
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Hi Kev. Fantastic start to your build. will be watching with great interest. Look forward to the next update. Ian  Current builds.Hachettes build the bismark,HMS Victory, HMS Hood.
Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
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Well done Kev! Some beautiful work and re-arranging going into this one, and some trademark scratch building too! You can tell I know nothing whatever about racing cars - when I saw MP4/4 in the title I thought you were building a large scale German Assault rifle! (Then I noticed the Senna and McLaren!  ) I bet your eyes will be burning like mine were after the ring mail looking at the size of those add ons! Best of luck with her! Robin. First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Hi Kev. I'm eagerly awaiting the progress on your build and still trying to figure out the missing part or parts? Perhaps another cryptic clue?
I found the battery by the way. It's on the front of the left hand intercooler ducting.
Malc.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello all,
Found some time to make a little more progress on this.
When I last updated I was working on the basic engine/gearbox build and the upper rear suspension arms and a couple of other bits, but I'm not going to show that work in this update as I want to leave the engine/gearbox assembly just for a little while and come back to it later. I want to do some work on other areas of the model for a while, but will do small pieces to the engine/gearbox in between and will show the work as I do it, but probably leaving the final engine assembly until nearer the end?
Using 'Krick' metal blackener, I have blackened the driveshafts, which were supplied in my upgrade set as plain machined brass bar. These can be seen in the first photo below. Not sure why they are portrayed as being a copper/bronze colour in the kit instructions and also in the DeAgostini 1:8 version of this car, as every reference photo I have seen shows them as being a metallic black and I prefer to stick with what is on the real car?
I have also assembled and painted the rear shock absorbers which are supplied as part of the upgrade set and come as a resin body with a turned aluminium upper part and a blackened metal spring, much better than the one-piece kit part from Tamiya! I did have a photo of the parts before construction but can't locate it anywhere so it's just the one photo below I'm afraid? There will be other scratchbuilt parts added to the shock absorbers at a later date before I fit them to the sideds of the gearbox.
Moving on to other parts of the build, I have decided to start constructing the wheel hubs, brake discs and brake calipers. The upgrade set provides complete replacements for these and none of the Tamiya kit parts are used in the construction. The photo below shows all of the parts needed to construct just one wheel hub/brake disc assembly and consists of no less than 21 pieces for EACH one, and even includes etched metal locking wires for the hub bolts! The dull metallic piece of wire in the centre-right of the photo is a piece of 0.6mm soldering wire which has to be cut into eight slightly over-length pieces then glued into the eight circular indents around the edge of the two steel coloured star-like discs on the left of the photo once they have been glued to each other. These pieces of wire are then cut and sanded down to size to portray a ring of bolt heads and then the brass coloured star shaped disc is glued behind and the etched locking wires then glued on top - quite ingenious and very effective I think? The photos show the first hub/brake disc assembly before and after construction but I now have another three to do after this, so that's a total of 84 parts just to build four assemblies and that doesn't include the brake calipers! Penny shots are included to show the small size of these in 1:20 scale! I am super impressed with the look of the replacement assemblies and in my next update I will show all four constructed units along with the brake calipers as well, and if I get time, hopefully everything will be painted.
Thanks for looking, all comments and criticisms welcomed.
Kev ModelMania attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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This upgrade set is awesome, man. Really great job. What are you using for references? Internet pictures or some book? I had a hard time recently finding time or motivation for the builds - when I had time, it was too hot to move a finger, and now I'm again lacking time :( But I did manage to finish the Porsche, have you seen my finished build gallery? http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=23510Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello all,
Finally finished building all four of the brake disc/hub assemblies (84 pieces in total!) from the upgrade set, photo can be seen below. Next job is to prepare and prime the calipers and their associated hydraulic piping and unions.
I've also added a few more PE parts to the engine and gearbox which can be seen below. The 'Honda' badges on the cam covers were already attached in a previous update, but I wasn't happy with the way they were sitting so I sliced them off and re-attached them.
I have also assembled and primed the resin upper rear wishbone assembly which comes in the superdetail set and which replaces the plastic kit part. I did have a photo of the component parts before assembly, but can't find it so I can only show it as assembled and primed, but I've indicated on the photo what work has been done? Needed a fair bit of Mr Surfacer 500 and sanding on the wishbone parts to tidy them up as they are not the neatest of mouldings which was a little disappointing given the cost of the set!!
Thanks for looking, all comments and criticisms welcomed.
Kev ModelMania attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Great update kev has really got some small etch work superb job regards Phil COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Way to go, Kev! These discs look awesome, you did a really good job of them. Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Great work Kev, very impressive.... Regards Alan
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Hi Kev. Great to see your progress on this build. Those wheel hubs and discs look fantastic.
Super neat job from you as always.
Malc.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Thanks Phil, Michal, Alan and Malc for looking in and for your nice comments always greatly appreciated.
Some of these etch parts are almost microscopic and close to the limit of whether or not I can fit them and still keep things neat and tidy without any glue showing - definitely a challenge, that's for sure!!  
Kev
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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ModelMania wrote:Thanks Phil, Michal, Alan and Malc for looking in and for your nice comments always greatly appreciated.
Some of these etch parts are almost microscopic and close to the limit of whether or not I can fit them and still keep things neat and tidy without any glue showing - definitely a challenge, that's for sure!!
Kev What I found out, the Mr Metal Primer works great if you need to glue tiny photoetched details to a metal part. Obviously, it won't work for anything load-bearing, but for stuff like nuts, it's amazing. Just brush on a bit, it's fully transparent so won't be visible, position your tiny part, then after it dries a bit - brush a bit more to fully seal. No mess, plenty of workable time. Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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michu wrote:What I found out, the Mr Metal Primer works great if you need to glue tiny photoetched details to a metal part. Obviously, it won't work for anything load-bearing, but for stuff like nuts, it's amazing. Just brush on a bit, it's fully transparent so won't be visible, position your tiny part, then after it dries a bit - brush a bit more to fully seal. No mess, plenty of workable time.
That's useful to know Michal. I have used paint or varnish in the past, which is very similar to what you suggest and which works well if, as you say, there is no load on the part. 'Formula 560' canopy glue is also quite good and cleans up with water, and also 'Microscale' Metal Foil Adhesive, which is pressure activated and leaves no messy edges to tidy up? Nowadays, I tend to just use thin CA glue picked up along the edge of a scalpel blade which can then be touched to the edge of a part letting capillary action suck it in and around a joint, and then sprayed with an 'accelerator' to cure it instantly, but your method does work very well and I suspect that being a metal (etching) primer it may have some slight benefits in attaching to metal better than normal paint or varnish would?
Thanks for your input Michal, much appreciated.
Kev
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Kev, if you have a look in my MP4/6 build diary and look very close at the driveshafts, you will see how well it works. The thin strip of bare metal around the cuff is not a separate part, but just a ridge machined onto the metal cuff. I painted the whole thing black, varnished to have the right level of flatness, and then scraped the paint from the ridge around the part. Now if you look very close, there is a tiny p/e part visible on that ridge on one of the shafts. It's a tiny rectangle, maybe 1mm by 0.5mm which is glued on top of the ridge. Which is round. I see no way I could pull it off with superglue because of how tiny and light the part is - slightest touch tended to turn it out of alignment, so it was positioning across instead of along the ridge, or was knocked out of it completely. So the metal primer to the rescue - it gave me enough time to put the part in place by gently prodding with a tip of 10/0 brush. And now why I'm writing about it: the joint is so positive, that this assembly survived all that paint scrapping without any issues. Frankly I'm pretty sure it's stronger than it would be if done with CA glue thanks to the fact I could use the primer under, over and around the tiny part. Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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michu wrote:Kev, if you have a look in my MP4/6 build diary and look very close at the driveshafts, you will see how well it works. The thin strip of bare metal around the cuff is not a separate part, but just a ridge machined onto the metal cuff. I painted the whole thing black, varnished to have the right level of flatness, and then scraped the paint from the ridge around the part. Now if you look very close, there is a tiny p/e part visible on that ridge on one of the shafts. It's a tiny rectangle, maybe 1mm by 0.5mm which is glued on top of the ridge. Which is round. I see no way I could pull it off with superglue because of how tiny and light the part is - slightest touch tended to turn it out of alignment, so it was positioning across instead of along the ridge, or was knocked out of it completely. So the metal primer to the rescue - it gave me enough time to put the part in place by gently prodding with a tip of 10/0 brush. And now why I'm writing about it: the joint is so positive, that this assembly survived all that paint scrapping without any issues. Frankly I'm pretty sure it's stronger than it would be if done with CA glue thanks to the fact I could use the primer under, over and around the tiny part.
Seems a very sound method Michal and those little pieces of PE on your MP4/6 driveshafts do look to be well attached. I have some of that Mr Metal Primer myself and will be trying it on some of the tiny PE parts on my 1:20 MP4/4 build to see how well it holds.
Thanks for the tip.
Kev
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello all,
Made some more progress on this build, quite a few bits done in fact but not all of it painted and finished yet so I'll just show some of it here and save the rest for the next update.
Submerged the brass wheel nuts in some 'Krick' blackening fluid until they were the right shade of black as can be seen in the first two photos below.
Then primed and painted the gearbox/driveshaft couplings which come in the upgrade set as machined aluminium with a small etched part for each. Very tricky to mask and paint such small parts neatly so forgive me if they aren't perfect but they won't be easily seen when the rest of the suspension and engine fittings are surrounding them.
The main engine/gearbox/lower suspension assembly shown as primed in my last update was then sprayed black and then masked up to leave the gearbox exposed which was then sprayed gunmetal. It should be titanium but the gunmetal was a little darker and looked more in line with my reference photos so gunmetal it is! I then fitted the gearbox/driveshaft couplings to the gearbox along with an etched ring that surrounds each coupling and which was painted in an anodised colour to match my reference photos.
The resin upper suspension assembly was then sprayed black and the top fittings for the springs were also painted and added inside the wishbones. These have already been fitted to the gearbox and I have done more fitting of parts to the engine/gearbox along with some more to the brakes/calipers but the photos for that work will be shown in the next update.
Thanks for looking, all comments and criticisms welcomed
Kev ModelMania attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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An amazing amount of detail at such a small scale, looks great
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