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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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The Jaguar E-Type, (or the Jaguar XK-E for the North American market), is a British sports car, which was manufactured by Jaguar Cars Ltd between 1961 and 1975.
Its combination of beauty, high performance, and competitive pricing established the marque as an icon of 1960s motoring. At a time when most cars had drum brakes, live rear axles, and mediocre performance, the E-Type sprang on the scene with 150 mph and a sub-7 second 0–60 time, monocoque construction, disc brakes, rack and pinion steering, independent front and rear suspension, and unrivaled looks. The E-Type was based on Jaguar's D-Type racing car which had won the 24 Hours of Le Mans three consecutive years (1955–1957) and, as such, it employed the racing design of a body tub attached to a tubular framework, with the engine bolted directly to the framework. The Series 1 was introduced, initially for export only, in March 1961. The domestic market launch came four months later in July 1961.
In March 2008, the Jaguar E-Type ranked first in a The Daily Telegraph online list of the world's "100 most beautiful cars" of all time. In 2004, Sports Car International magazine placed the E-Type at number one on their list of Top Sports Cars of the 1960's
The Jaguar E-Type model:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4-ABd4EcJGs
Specification:
1:8 scale 1963 Series 1, 3.8 litre E-type fixed head coupe.
Length: 556mm
Opening doors.
Metal spoked wheels (assembly).
Authentic treaded tyres.
Detailed 3.8 litre XK engine.
Operable independent suspension.
Opening boot, reveals luggage space and spare wheel under a removable panel.
Opening bonnet with louvre vents.
Fully detailed interior.
Working headlights & rear lights.
Working brake lights operated by the brake pedal.
Hazard warning lights.
Genuine leather seats.
Pre-painted 'British Racing Green' bodywork.
Made of die-cast metal, ABS plastic, leather and thermoplastic rubber, this is a must-have model for any model car collector or Jaguar fan. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible.
The Jaguar E-Type model has been created with assistance and approval of Jaguar Land Rover Ltd and acknowledged experts on the Jaguar E-Type.
On sale here: http://www.model-space.com/gb/buildjaguaretype?
Official video build: https://www.youtube.com/...pgef5IDFVH9Ch5ECrIthtdg
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Issue 1
Contents: Bonnet Centre Panel Assembly, Motif Bar, Jaguar Growler Badge, Left Hand Hub Cap, Retaining Screw, Screwdriver.
Take the Jaguar growler badge, motif bar and retaining screw. The back of the badge has a small locating tab so it will only fit the bar in one position.
Fit the growler badge into the recess in the centre of the motif bar, making sure that the tab on the back of the badge engages with the matching slot in the recess. Holding the badge in place, insert the screw from the opposite side and gently tighten it to lock the growler in position, taking care not overtighten the screw as this might crack the badge.
It is best to replace the parts in their protective packaging until you are ready to fit them, this will help to ensure that small pieces are not mislaid and that the finish will not be damaged.
This issue is now complete. Carefully store the assembly and any unused parts in an issue labelled bag.Spal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Issue 2
Contents: Leather Seat Cushion, Cylinder Head, Inlet Camshaft, Exhaust Camshaft, Inlet Cam Cover, Exhaust Cam Cover, Oil Cap, Retaining Screws.
Take the exhaust cam cover and the oil cap with its Jaguar logo. Note that the back of the cap has a small locating tab so it will only fit the cam cover in one position. Turn the cover over and use one of the retaining screws supplied with this issue to hold the cap in place, tightening it gently.
Take the cylinder head and the inlet camshaft, taking care not to confuse the inlet camshaft with the exhaust camshaft. Hold the inlet camshaft with the wheel on the left and the three pins pointing down towards the holes in the cylinder head. Two pins should angle out from the centre of the cylinder head so check the orientation with that shown in Step 3 of the instructions. Fit the three downward pointing pins into the corresponding holes in the cylinder head and press the parts firmly together, there is no need to use glue.
Repeat the process to fit the exhaust camshaft to the other side of the cylinder head, the four pins should be angled out from the centre as indicated in Step 5 of the instructions.
Now take the inlet cam cover and align the two holes on the underside with the two pins projecting from the camshaft, press the cam cover firmly into place. Take the exhaust cam cover and align the two holes on the underside with the two projecting pins, press the cam cover firmly into place.
This issue is now complete. Carefully store the assembly and any remaining parts in an issue labelled bag.Spal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Issue 3
Contents: Horn Button, Steering Wheel, Left Front Tyre.
Take the steering wheel and the horn button. Note that the horn button has three pins on the back, which correspond with three holes in the boss at the centre of the wheel. The pins only fit in one position ensuring that the logo on the button will be the right way up. Fit the three pins into the holes and carefully push the button into place, no glue is necessary.
This issue is now complete. Carefully store the assembly and any remaining parts in an issue labelled bag.Spal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Issue 4
Contents: Inner Spokes, Wheel Rim Outer, Spoke Retainer Ring, Wheel Centre, Retaining Screws, Wheel Building Jig, Tweezers.
Take the wheel centre and fit it onto the wheel building jig with the smaller diameter flange first. Note that the hole in the centre has a slot that engages with a matching tab on the jig to lock it in one position. Fit the outer wheel rim onto the wheel building jig so that the hole in the outer flange fits over the matching pin on one arm of the jig, locking the rim in position. Press the rim down between the four arms.
To keep the spokes in place during assembly carefully cut a strip of double sided tape measuring about 1.5-2mm wide and 160mm long. Using a cocktail stick or something similar, work the strip of double sided tape right down into the groove all around the rim, then peel off the backing strip to reveal the adhesive layer.
Each of the spokes has a pinhead on one end, this will lock the spokes into the wheel centre. The spokes also have two bends so that they will fit at the correct angle. Fit a spoke through one of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre and pull it through until the cranked end reaches the groove around the rim. The length and angle of the spoke means it will only fit snugly into one of the angled grooves around the rim. Lay the cranked end in whichever groove it reaches and press the tip down into the double sided tape. Then fit another spoke through the next one of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre, fitting as you did previously and laying the end into the next but one notch in the rim, stick the tip down.
Repeat the process until you have fitted 24 spokes into the alternate holes all the way round the rim, the whole of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre will have spokes fitted into them.
Take another spoke and fit it into one of the upper holes in the wheel centre, angling it in the opposite way to the first set of spokes. Work around the upper row of holes in the wheel centre, taking each spoke in turn to the next notch in the rim. Repeat the process until you have fitted 24 spokes into the alternate holes all the way round the rim. The tips of all 48 spokes should all be sitting in the grooves around the rim, angled in alternate directions.
Take the spoke retainer ring which has an array of notches that match the ones in the rim and four projecting tabs with holes for screws, which will go into the holes on the outer wheel rim. Making sure you do not dislodge any of the spokes from their notches, invert the retainer ring over the rim so that the four tabs match up with the holes and the notches fit over the spokes. Insert screws into each of the four holes and tighten them to lock the retainer ring in place, then pull the wheel building jig away to release the part build wheel. You will fit the inner rim and remaining 24 spokes later on.
Further guidance on wheel spooking can be found here:
http://forum.model-space...=239137&#post239137
This issue is now complete. Carefully store the assembly and any remaining parts in an issue labelled bag.Spal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Issue 5
Contents: Outer Spokes, Wheel Rim Inner, Spacer Ring, Screws
Please Note: Issue 5 stages 2-18 and stages 21-24 show photos of a wheel being built using a 2 spoke crossover pattern. The spoking pattern in the Jaguar drawing shown in issue 5 correctly shows a 3 spoke crossover that was used in the issue 4 instructions, which is the correct method of assembly, (you should ignore the 2 spoke pattern).
Take all the parts supplied this time together with the wheel assembly you completed in Issue 4. Cut a strip of double sided tape measuring about 1.5-2mm wide and 160mm long. Lay this in the groove that retains the ends of the spokes. Work the strip of double sided tape right down into the groove all around the rim then peel off the backing strip to reveal the adhesive layer.
Start by taking one of the spokes from the packet labelled ‘A’. Fit it through one of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre and thread the cranked end down through the ‘V’ formed by the closest pair of inner spokes. Turn the wheel over and lay the end of the spoke into the angled groove in the rim (it will only reach one). Press the cranked end of the spoke down into the double-sided tape to hold it in position.
Now take a spoke from packet ‘B’. Fit it through the upper row of holes in the wheel centre, using the hole above and to the left of the one fitted previously. Take the cranked end across the spoke you just fitted and down through the ‘V’ of the next pair of inner spokes. Turn the wheel over and lay the end of the spoke into the next angled groove in the rim, with its cranked end pointing towards the end of the first spoke you fitted. Press it into the double-sided tape to hold it in position.
Take another spoke from packet ‘A’. Fit it through the next one of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre and then down between the next pair of inner spokes. Turn the wheel over and lay the end of the spoke into the next notch in the rim, sticking the tip down as you’ve done previously. Take another spoke from packet ‘B’. Fit it through the hole above and to the left of the one fitted previously, across the spoke you just fitted and down through the ‘V’ of the next two inner spokes, secure the end to the rim.
Continue working round the wheel centre, alternating ‘A’ and ‘B’ spokes, crossing them over and feeding the tips through successive pairs of inner spokes. Repeat the process until you have fitted all 24 spokes into the alternate holes all the way round the rim. All the ends of the spokes should be lying in the groove around the rim.
Take the spacer ring and align the hole with the pin projecting from the wheel rim. Fit the spacer ring over the ends of the spokes then align the pin with the hole in the inner wheel rim. Press the inner wheel rim into place which will align the four screw holes. Drive a screw into each of the holes to complete the wheel.
Take the tyre supplied with Issue 2, together with the finished wheel. Immerse the tyre completely in boiling water for a couple of minutes to soften the rubber. Carefully remove the tyre and dry it thoroughly. Before the rubber cools, slip the flange projecting from the rim between the sidewalls of the tyre. Quickly work round the tyre, stretching the sidewalls over the flange. This will take some force. Check that the tyre is evenly seated all the way round the rims on both sides.
This issue is now complete. Carefully store the assembly and any unused parts in an issue labelled bag.
Spal attached the following image(s):
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