Issue 56 - Contains quarterdeck planking strips, cabin partition parts, wood strips, eyebolts and yellow acetate sheet imprinted with gallery windows; and has instruction for the completion of the quarterdeck planking and the cutting of the quarterdeck gun ports & timberhead openings.

Complete the quarterdeck planking - With the central area of the quarterdeck complete, you can fill in the narrow strips of planking along each side, some of which need to be trimmed to fit the bulwarks - don't forget to add the caulking.

Lay the next plank from the bow to frame 16, then lay another plank against the end of the one just laid so that it runs from frame 16 to 22, complete the row by laying a plank from frame 22 to 30 - you may need to cut a step at the end to clear the frames at the stern (possibly frames 27/28).

Add another two rows of planks in the same way; to maintain the planking pattern, the join between the planks should be moved forward by two frames every row. the planks will need to be stepped at the bow and stern so that the planks can fit between the frames.
Lay a plank between frames 16 ad 22, this plank should butt up against the edge of the hull planking, if not there is no need for concern if you have a gap of less than 2mm, because this will be covered over at a later stage when the bulwark trims are added.

Fill the spaces between frames 22 and 26 and frames 12 and 16, once again, any gap less than 2mm between deck and the hull planking does not need to be filled.

Repeat the same process at the opposite side of the deck, laying the fist plank from bow to frame 16, and the joins between the planks should move aft by two frames every row (rather than stepping forwards.

Once the glue is completely dry, sand the deck smooth, always sand in a fore-and-aft direction to avoid the ink from the caulking staining the surface of the decking, then simulate the plank joins/nail heads with a pencil.

Cutting of the quarterdeck gun ports and timberhead openings - Start by checking the height of the bulwark, it should be about 15.5mm. if it is less than 15mm, build it up with a narrow strip of plank, if it is higher than 16.5mm, carefully sand it back to the required height.

Step 2 on page 13 shows the layout of the openings to be cut along with measurements etc, the process from step 2 onwards requires careful measurement and should be carefully followed, which completes the opening's for the mooring timberheads and quarterdeck gun ports - note that the two timberhead openings sit higher than the base line of the first gun port, i.e. if cut correctly the bottom of the timberhead openings are not flush with the deck.
The timberhead openings and gun ports will be lined in the next issue.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts for later use.

Future issues:

Issue 57 - Contains assorted wood strips, and has instruction for the lining of the quarterdeck gun ports/ timberhead openings and bulwarks, along with adding the below poop deck gun support rails and preparing the cabin partitions.

Issue 58 - Contains assorted wood strips, grating strips, knees, flag locker and skylight frames; and has further instruction for the cabin partitions (staining, glazing and fitting), painting of the bulwarks, fitting of the ships wheel, fitting the poop deck support beams and planking the poop deck.

Issue 59 - Contains assorted wood strips, turned deck columns, skid beams, ladder sides, L shaped rail supports, eyebolts, thread, belfry parts and cleats; and has instruction for the finishing of the poop deck, making the timberheads, lining the quarterdeck opening and making the companionways.

Issue 60 - Contains assorted wood strips, dowel, grating strips, L-brackets, chimney, eyebolts, bulwark trims, canonball's, acetate sheet & pin rails; and has instruction for fitting the skid beams, adding ladders and frames, preparing and finishing of the forecastle bulwarks.

Issue 58 - Contains assorted wood strips, grating strips, knees, flag locker and skylight frames; and has further instruction for the cabin partitions, painting of the bulwarks, fitting of the ships wheel, fitting the poop deck support beams and planking the poop deck.

I chose to seal the deck opening's with masking tape to prevent the ingress of wood dust etc.

Staining the cabin partitions - The cabin partitions need to be stained and glazed before being assembled onto the rear of the quarterdeck.
Start by cutting two lengths of 4x4mm strip (provided with 57) the same length as the partition rear wall, then in one of the lengths, carve/sand a 2mm deep recess in the centre to fit around the mizzen mast dowel .

The cabin partitions (including the rear panel provided at 56) and two cross beams just made need to be dark wood-stained for both the painted and natural versions of the model.

Cut the yellow acetate panels from the acetate sheet provided in 56 which will be used to create cabin 'window panes', cut them size for each partition panel and peel off the protective film from the acetate.

Create a bonding key by sanding the edges of each pane being careful not to encroach into the visible area of the pane, then glue each pane in place using superglue applied around the extreme edges.
Apply the glue sparingly to avoid fogging, or use a specific acetate bonding glue such as Pacer 'Formula 560 canopy glue' - which dries clear, does not fog and has a flexible bond.

To create handles, bend the shaft of two eyebolts (from #56) to 90 degrees, then drill a 0.7mm hole in the two partition doors, then superglue the handles into place.

Fitting the cabin partitions - The side and rear walls of the cabin partitions need to be glued together before being installed onto the deck, make sure that the walls are square to each other and that the contact surfaces are as per those shown in the steps; ad the two cross beams locating the one with the recess at the open end of the partition assembly and with its recess facing towards the rear panel.

At this point, those opting form the painted model should now paint the insides of the bulwarks yellow ochre, as this is easier than doing so after adding the cabin partitions to the deck.

Insert the mizzen mast test dowel, then glue the cabin partition assembly to the deck, ensuring it is central and square, the recessed beam must fit against the mast but do not glue it to the mast - Use PVA glue and remove any excess from the deck and allow the glue to dry thoroughly before proceeding.

Now add the two forward facing partitions, noting how they should butt to the inside of the side partitions, this in turn means that you will need to sand the bulwark facing ends to meet with the bulwarks.

Now take the ships wheel, insert two pins into the holes drilled in to the supporting legs, and using these pins as a guide, mark the positions on the deck and drill 0.8mm holes at these positions.

Preparing for the poop deck - Prepare four deck support beams using the same method as you used for the quarterdeck beams and are cut from 1.5x6mm strip (provided at #57). Note that the forward beam needs a hole to fit around the mizzen mast.
Glue all four beams into place, using the test dowel to align the forward beam with the mast socket.

Use the 3x3mm strip of wood to mark lines down the projecting tops of the frames, which need to be cut down to this thickness to make the bulwarks. Use a razor saw to cut away the excess leaving a 3mm wide frame.

Measure and mark the centre line of the deck, then draw a further line 2.5mm to the port (left) of the centre line - This will be the position for the first plank.

Now cut 10 pieces of 3x3mm wood into 20mm lengths. Glue them into position on the hull planking of the poop deck (5 each side of the hull) so that they sit about 10mm above the hull planking.

Put the ships wheel into position, if the wheel supports are higher than the top of the deck support beam, carefully cut the top off both wheel supports until they are the same height as the top of the deck support beam.

If you wish, you can apply a coat of matt varnish to the deck in the cabin area, since this will be difficult to paint after the poop deck has been laid.

Add scraps of wood to fill the gap between the forward cabin partitions and the bulwarks. - These can be stained to match the cabin partitions.

Poop deck planking - With the ships wheel temporarily in place, lay the first 2x5mm deck plank (planks provided at 57) along side the guide lines to the left of the centre line, the stern end should contact the gallery wall and the front end should line up with the front edge of the ships wheel front post, mark the plank at this point, then set the wheel aside.
Glue the first plank into place, not forgetting to simulate the caulking, continue to plank the port (left) side of the poop deck, ensuring that each plank is cut so that the front edge of the planking is straight, and at the hull sides infill the gaps between the frames so that any gap between plank edge and hull side is no more than 2mm wide.
Glue the ships wheel into position, making sure it is upright and in line with the centre line marked on the deck beams.

Add the centre plank, which needs to be in two pieces cut to fit the mizzen mast. The front should be glued to the top of the wheel supports as well as the deck beam and the adjacent plank. Continue to plank the right (starboard) side of the deck.
Allow the glue to dry thoroughly then sand the deck smooth, you should also sand the front edge of the deck so that it is smooth and straight, finally mark the planking pattern with a pencil.


That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts for later use.

Future issues:

Issue 59 - Contains assorted wood strips, turned deck columns, skid beams, ladder sides, L shaped rail supports, eyebolts, thread, belfry parts and cleats; and has instruction for the finishing of the poop deck, making the timberheads, lining the quarterdeck opening and making the companionways.

Issue 60 - Contains assorted wood strips, dowel, grating strips, L-brackets, chimney, eyebolts, bulwark trims, cannonball's, acetate sheet & pin rails; and has instruction for fitting the skid beams, adding ladders and frames, preparing and finishing of the forecastle bulwarks.

Issue 61 - Contains assorted wood strips, eyebolts, blocks, thread & crosstree parts; and has instruction for the assembly of the main mast fighting top.

Issue 62 - Contains 1:1 main mast plans, assorted wood strips, mast dowel, heart blocks, mast collar, thread, pulley blocks & mast top supports, and has instruction for the start of the main mast build; starting with the shaping of the upper end of the lower mast, shaping the base of the lower mast and adding the top supports,(the main mast is not installed until later on).

Issue 60 - Contains assorted wood strips, dowel, grating strips, 'L' brackets, chimney, eyebolts, bulwark trims, cannonballs, acetate sheet & pin rails; and has instructions for fitting the skid beams, adding the ladders & frames, and preparing and finishing of the forecastle bulwarks.

A lot to do in this issue, carefully study the steps and take your time!

You will also need to have to hand from issue 59: The turned pillars, skid beams, completed ladders, 2x5mm & 2x10mm strips, and from 58 the 2x10mm strips.

Fitting the skid beams & pillars - The skid beams are fitted into the large opening (waist) of the quarterdeck, each beam is supported by two wooden pillars and is made up of two halves.

Start by measuring the length of the opening, then divide your measurement by seven to calculate the distance between each beam.

Place strips of masking tape along the long side edges of the opening, mark the front edge of the opening on the masking tape, then make six pencil marks, each spaced by the measurement you calculated earlier.
Then take two pillars and make sure the tops and bottoms are smooth/flat/identical in height, glue them either side of the grating - Use a strip of wood to ensure you place their centres in line with the pencil marks.

Repeat the process in line with all pencil marks until you have added six pairs of pillars, (with 2 pillars left over).

The outermost side of each skid beam half is flat, while the other runs parallel for a short distance, then tapers.
Sand the laser-burned edges off the beams, and round off the thin end inwards towards the mating surface of the corresponding beam half.
Apply glue to the contact area of where the beam halves meet, fit the two halves together holding them in position between the lining of the opening to get the right length, but DO NOT glue them into position upon the pillars at this stage.

When the glue is dry, stain the beams to your chosen colour or you have opted for the painted version paint them black; when the glue is dry glue each beam into place on top of the pillars and then remove the masking tape.

Adding the ladders and frames - Note the positioning of the ladders within the opening - The ladders nearest the bow fit up against the lining, and the aft ladders fit against the forward edge of the last beam, glue the ladders into place.

To make the frames of the opening, take a piece of 3x3mm strip, mark and then cut to length to fit between the two ladders; repeat for both sides. Then mark and cut a third 3x3mm strip to fit across the front of the opening.
Round off the upper ends of the side strips, then stain or paint all three strips to match the linings of the opening, glue them into position on top of the linings so that they are flush with the edge of the linings.

Preparing the forecastle bulwarks - Measure the height of the forward bulwark above the head deck, it should be 28 to 29mm.
If it is too low or high, build up the bulwark with a strip cut from a spare length of plank, or sand the height down.
Now measure 150mm back from the inside planking of the forward bulwark and make a pencil mark on the side planking.

Then cut a small piece of 3x3mm wood, and glue it on the inside of the bulwark so that it fits between the pencil mark and the next rib forward.
Then cut and glue a small piece of 2x5mm plank to extend the lower planking as far as the pencil mark.

To make it easier to cap the forward bulwarks, thin the forward frames from 3mm to 1.5mm, (the bulwark capping will be fitted later on).

Cut and glue two strips of 2x5mm plank to form the inside of the bulwark. The upper plank can stop about 50mm short of the end, as the bulwark will taper down to the deck, use a plank bender so that the planks follow the curve of the bulwark.

The forward bulwark needs to be cut to height, make a mark at the front the same height as the height measured earlier above the head deck at the forward bulkhead (height of 28 or 29mm), the rear mark is made 2mm above the deck; draw a line between the two points on the outside of the planking, and then using a razor saw, cut just above the line to remove the excess planking.
Sand the top of the bulwarks smooth and straight, and continue until flush with the forward bulkhead.

Line the inside of the front bulwarks with 2x5mm planks, when the glue is dry sand the top flush with the forward bulkhead and the inside surface smooth.

Take the 4x4m strip, and cut a strip to fit across the front of the deck so that it fits up against the bulwark, but DO NOT glue into place as yet.

Using a 3x3mm strip, cut two lengths 15mm long and two lengths 20mm long, and then drill shallow 1.5mm holes spaced 3mm apart (cannonballs will be seated into the shallow's at a later point).

Stain the 4x4mm bulkhead strip and cannonball pieces your chosen colour and glue them into place, if painting, paint them black and glue into place after having painted as noted below.

At this stage, if you are painting your model, you need to paint the inside of the forecastle and poop bulwarks yellow ochre.

Finishing the bulwarks - The bulwarks are completed by adding capping strips provided in 58, 59 & 60.

The capping process is repeated both sides of the model, you should retain all offcuts as they will be required to complete the process.

Take two lengths of 2x8mm strip (from 59) and cut them to fit along the quarterdeck in the space between the forward and aft bulwarks. Sand the strips to remove any rough edges, and round off the corners, then stain or paint and glue into place with the outer edge overhanging the hull by 1mm.
Use the offcuts of 2x8mm strip, and cut small uprights to fit the need of the aft quarterdeck bulwark, sand, stain or paint and glue into place.

Fit a length of 2x10mm strip (from 58) on top of the aft quarterdeck bulwark. Cut a section out of the aft end to fit around the curved edge of the poop bulwark, and trim the forward end of the capping flush the with upright just installed, stain or paint these caps and glue into place, so that you have a 1mm overhang as before.

The poop bulwark capping needs a tight curve. Take a 2x10mm strip (from 58), and make a series of shallow cuts with a razor saw across the first 20mm of one end. Space the cuts 1mm apart, and make them 1 to 1.5mm deep, being careful not to cut through the strip.
Soak the cut end in hot water to make it pliable so that the end of the strip will bend around the curved part of the bulwark. Because of the tight radius, you might find it easier to glue this cap strip in place before staining/painting; hold the front end of the cap in place with two pins and hold the main length of the cap down with pins or weights. Finish the strip length using offcuts, which should be shaped to meet with the gallery wall.

Cut a length of 2x8mm strip so that it is about 20mm wider than the front bulwark (overhangs 10mm either end). Stain/paint and glue this strip into position, leaving the front edge of the strip overhanging the forward edge of the bulwark by about 1.5mm.
Then cut a piece of 2x12mm strip so that the forward end fits against the rear edge of the strip just fitted, and that the rear end extends over the previously fitted quarter deck strip by 1mm.

Stain/paint the strip and glue into place, flush with the inner face of the bulwark at the front and the cap strip at the rear.
Sand/trim the ends of the forward bulkhead cap flush with the butting cap strips, then touch up the stain or paint as necessary.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts for later use.

Future issues:

Issue 61 - Contains assorted wood strips, eyebolts, blocks, thread & crosstree parts; and has instructions for the assembly of the main mast fighting top.

Issue 62 - Contains a 1:1 main mast plans, assorted wood strips, mast dowel, heart blocks, mast collar, thread, pulley blocks & mast top supports; and has instructions for the start of the main mast build; starting with the shaping of the upper end of the lower mast, shaping the base of the lower mast and adding the top supports, (the main mast is not installed until later on).

Issue 63 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, cross tree parts, blocks, mast caps, thread, heart blocks, eyebolts, guides and cradles; and has further instructions for preparing the lower main mast, mast cap, cross trees, main top mast and the fitting of the main top mast.

Issue 64 - Contains dowel & wood strip, assorted blocks, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studding sail boom irons and gun port wriggles; and has instructions for the making of the main topgallant mast and adding the rigging blocks to the main mast.

continued