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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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Its that time again, another delivery has arrived, this time we have issues 18, 19, 20 and 21. Not very much to do at all in all honesty, but we do get a good glimpse of how the leg is coming together, and the first really good feel of the true size of this droid - its pretty impressive. So here are my images of my build progress upto issue 21. Note that when assembling the microphone in issue 18 the mag is not very clear as to which screws to use. The correct ones are the very short countersink screws we got in issue 16 (the flat head with the cone underneath, not the dome type screws). We also add a further 2 pieces to the dome. Issue 19 was very disappointing - we simply slide 2 small silver plastic pieces into the rear leg and that's it! Issue 20 isn't much better, we add a single piece to the dome and done! We do however also receive a sensor that will go into the leg later in the build, and a silver plastic piece for use in the next issue. Issue 21 gets a bit more exciting as we attach the main body of the leg to the metal frame, and make a start on the wheel housing in the foot. We can also temp assemble the rest of the leg pieces (although there is no instructions for this in the mag, its quite easy to work out how it goes together) and begin to get a real sense of the size and weight of our humble droid. semaj attached the following image(s): Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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 Rank: Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/07/2015 Posts: 1,292 Points: 3,928 Location: Allentown PA
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Nice progress it's looking really good.
DeAgostini kit builds:
Millennium Falcon: 18% Complete
Shelby GT-500: 28% Complete
Thunderbird 2: 13.75% Complete
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 Rank: Elite    Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2012 Posts: 1,787 Points: 5,292 Location: Thurso
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Looking good, nice update.
Graeme
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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Cheers guys. Im really enjoying the build of this. The quality of parts so far is absoluetly on point. Just a bit of a letdown on the physical ammount there is to do, but im sure other issues will more than make up for that. Plus we still have the foot to build, the other leg and more. Long journey. Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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Nice update, taking shape nicely.  Mark
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Very nice progress, all looking good....  Regards Alan
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/03/2017 Posts: 42 Points: 177
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I've been wondering how high R2 will stand when completed ?
Cheers.
EDIT.......... I've just found the answer on the faq... thanks.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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Ill try and take a shot holding the leg roughly in position against what we have so far of the head. That gives a really good feel to the size and its quite impressive tbh. Saying that its a working model and all. Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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 Rank: Beginner Level 3  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/06/2017 Posts: 26 Points: 71 Location: Texas
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Fixing to start my build like your idea of thread lock 222 , are you going to use it on all metal screws?
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 Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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carlton wrote:Fixing to start my build like your idea of thread lock 222 , are you going to use it on all metal screws?
In some partworks you need to partially disassemble parts that have been previously built so I would caution you against using threadlock unless you are 100% sure that part will not need to be partially disassembled in a later part of the build. Carl
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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i totally agree with what car above is saying. i cant see us having to dismantle the entire head frame in future and same with the leg frame. i am using caution and applying the smallest possible amount. its more to prevent screws coming loose in the future rater than them being permanently fixed in place Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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Its that time again, the next delivery set has landed - issues 22 - 25. We're a quarter of the way through the build already!! These issues almost complete the framework for the dome head and we build up a wheel. other than that, there isn't much going on with this delivery set. looking ahead on the official diary page though things look set to get very exciting indeed. Issue 22 was quite exciting as we got another one of R2s logic screens. This is the twin screen seen on the front left side of R2s dome. *REMEMBER* to peel the film off the screen. The mag isnt particularly clear exactly which screws to use, but it says to use the 6mm black screws. I used 4 black screws that were supplied in issue 16 as these fitted the bill. Once all fitted together and screwed down, we can plug in the test circuit board and battery box, using the same cable as the earlier tested logic screen (the long thin one), switch on and hit that test button to make sure everything works. Screen looks nice with randomly blinking dots. Issue 23 we fit another piece to the dome, 2 long silver screws and the nuts, job done. The metal parts are stored for later. Issue 24 we build up the 1st wheel. Relatively straight forward, the wheel tread is a softer rubbery feeling material that is sandwiched with 2 solid plastic parts that will house the hub. The posts of one piece simply fit through the holes in the tread, the other plastic part fits on the other side lining up the screw holes. Again the mag isn't mega clear which screws to use, i used the single black screw from issue 5 and 3 from issue 21. These fitted with the description and screwed the wheel together nicely. Nice rubbery tread to give grip. Issue 25 is exactly the same as issue 23, fit the final piece of the dome frame, and store the metal parts. YAY the dome is almost finished! semaj attached the following image(s): Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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Coming along very nicely, can't believe we are a quarter of the way through already. Mark
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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Here is my update for issue 26-29. In these issues we saw a bit more progression with the leg. We got to attach the wheel complete with its bearings and foot mounting plates. We also build up and test the projector which i really enjoyed doing. So on with issue 26, align the pegs on the plate with the corresponding holes on the top side of the lower leg, ensure the 4 screw holes line up correctly, then screw it in place. Again i found the magazine a little ambiguous as to which screws to use exactly. I used the shorter small diameter silver screws (the same ones we use to attach the ring frames together for the dome). Next we fit the axle into the wheel, this will only fit in one way as there is a recess in the wheel for the large circular part to fit into. This was a reassuringly snug fit. Pop the bearing into the recess of the foot plate. I added a little bit of bearing retaining compound to hold it in place and prevent the whole bearing rotating in the housing causing friction wear. This is not entirely necessary, just a personal preference. Finally pop the small stub on the axle into the bearing, again i added a little bit of bearing retainer compound to hold the stub into the bearing, so that the bearing its self turns and not the wheel spinning in the bearing. This completes the issue. Issue 27 was where the real fun for me began as we make a start on the projector which is a key feature of the whole model. Firstly a word of caution, handle the circuit board and screen with great care. Do not got finger prints on the screen and be very careful not to damage the ribbon cable attaching the screen to the board. Firstly make sure to peel the protective film from both sides of the screen. Align the pins on the housing with the smaller holes on the circuit board, ensuring the microchips are on top. Carefully slide the screen into the housing, take caution as it is a loose fit and can slide all the way through or fall out. Locate the circuit board onto the pegs of the housing and screw in place. Out of all the black screws we have to date i used the smaller diameter ones with small heads. Carefully plug the small plug of the wire into the larger socket on the circuit board. Take care and ensure you have it the correct way around. It should only fit 1 way. This completes the 1st part of the projector build. semaj attached the following image(s): Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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Issue 28 we fit another bearing and the final foot place to hold the wheel in place. This is quite straight forward. Fit the bearing over the axle of the wheel (i added a bit of bearing retaining compound to prevent the bearing free spinning on the axle). Locate the studs on the plate into the corresponding hols of the mounting bracket and fit the large hole over the bearing. Finally screw in place using the same screws as before. This completes the issue. Issue 29, by far the most exciting to date as we finish and test the projector!! Firstly take the smallest lens and pop it into the lens barrel with the curved face pointing outwards and flat face on the inside. Make sure you 'click' it in place. I used a piece of cloth pushed down the tube (to protect the lens) and the handle of the screw driver to carefully press it in. I have attached an image to show the correct location of the lens in the barrel. Next up we take the screen from before and slot the largest lens into the grooves nearest the screen, ensuring the flat face of the lens is towards the screen. Now fit the final lens into the middle set of grooves with the curved face towards the previously fitted lens. Finally take the LED back light and slide it into the final set of grooves with the wires at the top. Carefully bend the wires back into the cut out of the board. Take the lid and click it in place over all 4 tabs ensuring the screen is held by the groove. Plug the LED wire into the small plug on the circuit board. Finally we take the lens barrel and slide it over the screen and attach with a single screw. This completes the issue semaj attached the following image(s): Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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Finally we can test the projector and see it working for the first time!! There is a problem with the instructions in the magazine that highlights the fact a change to the hardware was made before going to print. We are told that we can see both projections of Leia and Luke, by pressing various button combinations on the test board. This is simply an issue of the test board not having enough power and the projector does work as intended. A simple fix can be found here http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=23853
So on with the test. Plug the cable on the projector into the OUT socket on the test board, plug the battery pack into the In of the test board, switch on. Press S2 button and you will see a video sequence of Luke, fantastic!! To get the projection of Leia you need to follow the fix posted above. follow it through, it is a little fiddly but does work. Voia!!A fully working projector showing Luke and Leia. That was fun! here are links to videos of the actual projections: Luke: https://youtu.be/C2iaLHdGkGk
Leia: https://youtu.be/CgjV7upndSY
Please not that at this stage of the build there is no sound as we have not yet built up the speaker sections. semaj attached the following image(s): Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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Nice update, its amzing how quick this build seems to be going. Mark
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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Thanks Mark. its progressing slowly as any part work, but totally loving it all so far. cant wait till the time comes to get all these bits into the dome. it will really start to feel like a droid then! I am also going to be building the RedBull RB7 RC car. just in talks with DeAgostini about getting the full kit Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/01/2017 Posts: 83 Points: 252 Location: South Witham
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Nice update, great photos too. If you build it he will come Built - Eaglemoss 3D Printer. Building - R2D2  National league Champions 2017 FA Cup Quarter Finalists 2017
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Looking good so far and great pictures
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