There is no dedicated software for the IDBOX.It sounds like it may be the main board if you are sure the thermistor is working.You say it works in manual mode which would be odd if the main board is not working.That happens when you try to print something?


Carl

Was it printing before you replaced the part? Did you remove the Gcode that tells the bed to heat up.

Carl

So after you installed the new thermistor sensor the printer wouldnt print? At that point you uninstalled the printer software and reinstalled it? is that correct?

The printer responds to manual commands and the print head heats up? Can you extrude some filament using the manual controls to confirm the print head is heating up ok? Dont touch the pritn head to see if it is heating up because it will burn you.If it has heated up OK you will be able to extrude some filament by manually activating the extruder motor in the manual control panel


If all of that works it suggests to me the problem lies with the Gcode. There is a gcode command to tell the printer to wait for the print bed to heat up before printing.Since the IDBOX doesnt have a heated bed you need to remove this from the gcode or the printer wont print.


Carl

Hi

In repetier host you add the program to print and then slice it and view on the right. On the left hand side you will see tabs with object placement,slicer,print preview, Gcode editor and manual control.

If you click on Gcode editor tab you should see the code that will print your object the first line will be the order to wait for the bed to heat up before printing starts this needs to be reset to 0. Once this is reset the head should heat up and start printing.

Andy

Thanks for the tip Carl, that was the problem although I don't understand why that is happening now and why I have to change the value every time I use the software. Sorry about long time before response. I'm sick and am in hospital waiting for a triple bypass. Looking forward to getting back to fiddling with the printer!

I don't know I'm very frustrated. I can't get the thee idbox to print anything decent at all. It seems to be getting worse to the point I can't print anything even a mess of a print. Repetier is giving me nothing but problems constantly not working and that line code m190 won't go away. I've tried some other software with phopeful results. Is they're an upgraced 2017 version of the motherboard available?
Thanks
Svelterdread

I'm using Windows 10, and have tried all of the versions of the software including the newest release and while it did't do it before now everytime I run it regardless of software version it automatically adds the M190 S50 line to the gcode when it used to be and needs to be "S0". It will not retain that in memory and I used to be able to change that and it would print and now even if you change it , it will not start to print.
I've recalibrated the print table with every software change trying to start fresh. All of the filament is PLA running 210C.
Another annoying issue is that I know have to recalibrate the X and Y movement as the optical stop switches don't always see the "blade" indicating a "stop" condition so it makes a terrible screeching sound.
Also when before slicing the file I have to go back in the settings and reset it to Cura as it automatically lists Slicer instead. What I'm trying to print during these trials is a simple item- a Bass guitar pick which it had no problem printing when I had finished the printer and was able to actually print. Is the main board an arduino board with a ramps shield?
Also during one of the last print runs the extrusion fan burned out and the lead wires melted all the way back to the connector. Using standard U.S. 120vac. Have also replaced the heater and thermistor that your customer service sent me (kudos to your Customer Service, very nice and quick) . I've been so frustrated that I've walked away from it for quite a while so I can approach it with fresh eyes and less stress. I was hoping to use this in a small business application but may have to go with something else and use this to tinker with .
The adverts listed that the suggested software was going to be made available with an Idbox version or software selection for this printer specifically, is that still in process or scrapped in favor of using the general selections as in the manual.
I've seen the you tube videos and can see this works .....just a little frustrating. Must be missing something...

OK.Here is what I did with my IDBOX and WIndows 10 laptop

I installed Repetier server and repetier host.I have only used repetier host before.

So I opened repetier host.I then disabled repetier server by doing the following;

CLick on the server button at the top of the screen

Click on "stop local server"

I then turned off the repetier heated bed option and set the nozzle temp to 210 degree;

CLick on config and then Printer settings.Under the printer tab on this box set default extruder temp to 210 and default bed temp to 0

I then clicked on Connect.Once the printer has connected click on manual control at the top right of the screen

Once the manual control box opens there should be a red line across the bed icon and the extruder.Click on the extruder icon and the temp should start to rise.

You can also try manually moving the x and y axis to check the printer is working

WHile you are waiting for the nozzle to get to temp load your print file.CLick on cura slice to slice it

Once it is done slicing click on the g code editor and find the m190 s50 command and set the 50 to 0.Save the file.

GO back to the manual control screen and wait for the nozzle temp to get to 210.If is doesnt go above 200 you may need to enter 210 in the box at the right of the line showing the nozzle temp

Once the nozzle is at 210 go back to the print preview screen and press print.The table should lower all the way down and the print head should home itself on the x and y axis.If you get the grinding noise you forgot to adjust your x and y limit switches.

As soon as the print bed approaches its upper limit malted filament should start coming out of the nozzle and the nozzle should move to the center of the pritn bed and start printing.

DO that and let me know what happens.If the printer wont print takes some screen grabs so we can see what repetier is doing.

carl

Hello,

I just end to build the IDBOX but I'm very frustrated... I order the
full kit and I received only the parts. The books doesn't make
part of the sending... I RECEIVED THE ANSWER THAT THIS WAS NORMAL.

I build it with the PDF files off the Model Space site.

Now without any explanation I downloaded and started Repetier-host.
When I started a test print I have my axes (X,Y & Z) went to "0" positions but my extruder doesn't heat up.(The bed t° is set on 0)
I read different thing you wrote in the forum but without succes. I ignore if my settings are OK, I don't know if my communication is OK,
I am completely lost in the all story and without support it's just to become completaly crazy...!

Can some one help me please?

I'm a confirmed model constructor, I'm know working on the Starwars "Millenium" and the "R2D2"... So I'm praticaly sure my printer is build the right way...

Here I am a year later with a replacement printer since the first one spontaneously combusted (wiring caught fire) whole unit died.
2nd unit is all together and will not only not print , the steppers don't work and the communication times out. Led lights up on board but even in manual mode nothing will move. Replaced power supply still nothing. Help! I am so frustrated with this machine. Using current version of reptier software on Windows 7. Have the suggested Arduino software all as before but nothing..
Thanks for any help