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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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Never done a build diary before, and its a long time since I built a model, that would have been in the 50's while still at school. I saw the T.V. ad and then saw Part 1 of the model in Tesco's. What sort of petrol head, growing up in the '60s could resist a BRG E-Type? So I bought Part 1 and thought about the expense over the weekend. The Jaguar won and my budget lost. JG attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Welcome to the forum J.G glad to see you got bit by the bug it look an amazing kit hope you enjoy your build regards Phil COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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This diary entry is not contemporary, so no point in stretching it out, having ordered a subscription Parts 2 to 5 duly arrived and the fun started. Part 1 had required little effort, just attach the growler badge and store a random wheel spinner, but now i was faced with the first wire wheel. I wasted a lot of time with double sided tape, I know some have used that method but I'm afraid I really could not make that work. After sleeping on it I decided to use glue. I checked to make sure any excess glue would be covered by the rim and with some trepidation I used tiny spots of "No More Nails" applied with a cocktail stick, pushing each spoke into its groove. O.K. maybe not the best adhesive for this, but it takes awhile to set and is sticky enough to give a quick hold and it worked! Once completely assembled the wheel looked great and gave a warm glow of satisfaction. I will use the same method for the next four and expect to do them quite quickly. JG attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 7,963 Points: 23,078 Location: East midlands
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Hi JG, Welcome to the forum. Great to see another Jag build started and a diary as well. Congrats on your "Blue" medal for starting your diary. Any questions then just ask, someone here will know the answer. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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that wheel looks stunning, i think you will enjoy this build jg, looking forward to your next instalment.
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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Next step, assemble a door. No difficulties with this part, just make sure the chrome trim strip is the right way round and don't mix up the window winder and door handle. One of the seats is assembled at this stage and again nothing much to say here. Everything is looking good. JG attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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Door Exterior view JG attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2017 Posts: 410 Points: 1,220 Location: Lancashire
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Hi JG, Great to see you have started up your diary, I'll look forward to seeing your progress May.
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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Now the diary is getting up to date, I have started work on the engine. The cylinder head cams and cam covers already assembled and i now have both halves of the block and clutch housing along with the inlet manifold, carbs and ancillaries. I read the tip about painting the block at this stage, but not having any paint or a local model shop and being somewhat impatient I assemble everything, taking care not to over-tighten any screws, then I go looking for photographs of 1960s E-Type engines. I decide the block should indeed be black. I remember on the cars with S.U. carbs i had in the 60s the dashpot damper was usually black. The ones on the model are gold and on most photos of E-type engines they are gold (in colour LOL, probably brass) I also noted that the fuel pipes are grey, probably steel, but the unions are brass, so I think a bit of brass paint is called for. The distributor cover was probably black originally but I have seen various covers including blue and red, probably generic replacements, mine will be black. It will be almost 4 weeks before any more parts arrive so next task is to find a model shop and get some paint. The inlet manifold and carbs look great. JG attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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Engine block, unpainted JG attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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And the other half JG attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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The air cleaner does not want to stay attached, I will probably have to glue it, but will not do so until I'm sure it does not need to come off for any reason!
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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I note that a number of people drop and risk losing small parts. I was worried that I would lose wheel spokes. I work on a well lit desk in the room I call my office. I keep all parts I am working on, and do the work on or maybe I should say in a deep (1 inch) tray. The bottom of the tray is covered by paper kitchen towel. If I drop a screw or a spoke it does not bounce and it stays in the tray.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2017 Posts: 410 Points: 1,220 Location: Lancashire
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JG wrote:I note that a number of people drop and risk losing small parts. Hi, Yep I do that quite a bit most tend to get found although I did somewhat annoyingly lose a spoke which has still yet to surface. I use a large bead sorting tray for the same reason that you note but I have a habit of moving away from it when doing something which kinda defeats the point really but hey I'm learning as I go along. May.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/03/2017 Posts: 91 Points: 276 Location: Worcester, UK
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Welcome to the forum J.G. Always good to see another Jag being built. Building: Deagostini R2D2, Eaglemoss Delorean, Deagostini E-Type
Built: Deagostini Millennium Falcon
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Great to see your diary up and running and must say it looks as if you're off to a cracking start.... Looking good.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2017 Posts: 77 Points: 230 Location: Liverpool UK
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Hi J.G. Have a look at SPAL's wheel spoking tutorial... http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=23122
As you carry on doing the model you may want to use the 3 spoke crossover that he uses. This means that each spoke you put in on the second row of issue 4 of the build crosses over three spokes from the first row rather than two (see SPAL's 11th picture down. This shows the first spoke on the second row crossing over three of the original spokes). This gives added strength to the inner hub supporting the outer hub. Happy modelling
Alec
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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The engine is now painted, Exhaust manifolds fan belt and dynamo fitted and the 2 halves have been joined together. There were a couple of problems:
The exhaust manifolds do not quite fit, the large lugs and the lug that carries the screw fit fine but the small lug will not line up. I solved that by cutting off the small lug. A little drastic but the manifolds are flush and secure and appear to be at the correct angle.
The second problem was the tiny rev. counter generator (15-4)Almost inevitably it shot out of the tweezers, bounced around my workroom/office never to be seen again. If anyone knows who to contact to get a spare I would be grateful.
I will pick up some silver paint in the next few days and paint the cylinder head bolts and pulley bolts.
I have not fitted the plug leads, waiting until the bolts are painted. That is going to be a bit fiddly but at least I won't be able to lose the parts.
I will post a pic when the painting is done
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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May be worth ringing customer services.Hope you are enjoying the build so far. http://forum.model-space...amp;m=150240#post150240
Al
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/06/2017 Posts: 17 Points: 54 Location: UK
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Apart from the small piece I lost, the engine went together fine. The HT leads were a bit fiddly as predicted but finally got it all together. I will tidy up the paint job were the 2 halves of the block meet later, but it does not look too bad. JG attached the following image(s):
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