Issue 61 - Contains assorted wood strips, eyebolts, blocks, thread & crosstree parts; and has instructions for the assembly and finish of the main mast fighting top.

The main mast fighting top (sometimes inaccurately called the 'crows nest') is the platform fitted at the point where the lower mast joins the top mast. Its main purpose is to anchor the shrouds of the top mast above it, but it could also be used as a lookout point or a station for sharpshooters.

Assembling the base of the main mast fighting top - Glue the pre-cut surround to the shaped base of the fighting top, making sure the two are exactly aligned, then glue the front upper surround on top of the assembly aligning it with the outer edge.
Then cut strips of 3x2mm wood to complete the surround, aligning the inside edge with the surround, leaving the outside edge overhanging which will be sanded flush later.

There are six shaped parts that make up the cross trees. - Start by turning the fighting top over and glue the two longest pieces in place, locate them so that the edges are flush with the cut-out edges.
Then take the two remaining cross trees and short spacer pieces and dry fit them together. The gap between the cross trees needs to be 8 to 8.5mm, you may need to file the slots in the cross trees and the ends of the spacer to get a snug fit.
Fit the assembly over the two long cross trees so that the forward arms run either side of the cut-out in the fighting top, you may need to adjust the slots in the cross trees to get a good fit, then glue the pieces into position.
Sand the edges of the fighting top smooth, making the overhanging edges flush with the edge of the top.

Adding the hand rail - Cut two strips of 2x3mm wood and one piece of 2x2mm strip, making them the same length as the width of the fighting top.
Drill five holes into the 2x3mm strips only, and make them all 1mm in diameter and position as per the guide in the magazine - (the holes of both strips must align with each other).
Glue one of the two 2x3mm strips just drilled to the rear edge of the fighting top so that it sits flush with the rear edge of the fighting top.
Then glue the 2x2mm strip so that it is aligned along the centre of the 2x3mm strip to form the hand rail.

Assembling the base of the main mast top - Using the reference points noted in the magazine, drill two rows of six 1.5mm holes thru the fighting top; Note - You may find that the 38mm forward hole slightly encroaches into the forward crosstree by about 0.25mm, therefore this mark should be moved slightly backwards by approx 0.5mm so that the hole is just aft of the crosstree, thus avoiding it.
Turn the top over and drill another 10 holes, this time 0.7mm in diameter as per the reference points noted in the magazine.

If you have opted for a natural wood finish to your model, stain the entire assembly and handrail your chosen colour BEFORE fitting the ribs to the fighting top.
If you have opted the painted finish, paint the entire fighting top and handrail black AFTER fitting the ribs as noted below.

You need to cut 27 ribs from 2x5mm wood to fit the base of the fighting top, the general shape of each rib is the same, however each rib needs to be individually shaped to suit its position, (I set out and laid the ribs on half of the base, and then replicated at the opposite side).

Use the photo at step 5 of page 13 as a guide for the correct placement of the fighting top ribs. - Note that the ribs must not block the 1.5mm holes of the base, but it does not matter if they cover the 0.7mm holes.

Take the brass eyelets and cut the shanks to 2mm long, then superglue them into the 0.7mm holes on the underside of the fighting top, ensuring that the eyes are aligned as shown.

Take a small block and tie a single hitch around it using the thinner thread, the hole in the block should be at the knot end, pull the hitch tight and tie a second hitch to secure the knot. paint the knot with diluted PVA glue to seal it, then cut the end closest to the knot. Prepare a total of six blocks using the same method.

Tie the six blocks to the eyes on the underside of the fighting top in the positions shown, which should hang equally about 10-12mm below the eye.

Cut five 12mm lengths of brass wire and glue them in the holes in the back rail of the fighting top to form the hand rail posts, then glue the handrail to the posts to complete the assembly.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts for later use.

Future issues:

Issue 62 - Contains a 1:1 main mast plan, assorted wood strips, mast dowel, heart blocks, mast collar, thread, pulley blocks & mast top supports; and has instructions for the start of the main mast build; starting with the shaping of the upper end of the lower mast, shaping the base of the lower mast and adding the top supports, (the main mast is not installed until later on). - Carefully study the plans against what need to be achieved!

Issue 63 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, cross tree parts, blocks, mast caps, thread, heart blocks, eyebolts, guides and cradles; and has further instructions for preparing the lower main mast, mast cap, cross trees, main top mast and the fitting of the main top mast.

Issue 64 - Contains dowel & wood strip, assorted blocks, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studding sail boom irons, gun port wriggles and slings; and has instructions for the making of the main topgallant mast and adding the rigging blocks to the main mast.

Issue 65 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studdingsail boom irons, assorted blocks and slings, plus a bonus pot of copper paint (one of two); and has instructions for constructing & dressing the main yard, finishing and adding the rigging blocks.
65 also give's you the option to have Running or Standing rigging on your model, (with or without Sails) where the rigging is different to both versions, and is where you need to make a decision as to your chosen route.

Issue 63 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, cross tree parts, blocks, mast caps, thread, heart blocks, eyebolts, guides and cradles; and has further instructions for preparing the lower main mast, cross trees, mast cap, main topmast and the fitting of the main topmast.

Preparing the lower main mast - Start by carving away the centre part of the two mast battens fitted to one side of the mast (not front or rear side) to create notches 5mm long and 1.5mm deep.
Then take one of the two shallow U-shaped guides and fit centrally in the slot between the battens, (you may need to sand the guides to reduce thickness for a snug fit). Glue the part in place, then repeat the process at the opposite side of the mast with the second guide.

If you are painting your model, before adding the brown thread and blocks, paint the battens and guides black, but do not paint the end square section.
When the paint is fully dry, take the 0.8mm brown thread (supplied at 61), then take a pencil and place against the opposite side of the mast top to act as a spacer, then thread three loops of thread through the guide, going around the top of the mast and pencil; turn the mast over, tie the thread with a reef knot and seal the knot with diluted PVA glue. Trim the ends when the glue is dry and repeat the process at the opposite side of the mast.

All the rigging blocks are secured the same way as shown in issue 61, take two 7mm triple blocks (supplied at 61), and tie a loop of 0.8mm brown thread around them, seal the knot and trim the ends.
Tie the tail of one of the blocks to the middle of the thread loops created earlier, leaving about 30mm of free length, secure with two hitches and repeat at the opposite side of the mast ensuring that both triple blocks hang down just below the main mast top, and that they are both at the same height before tightening the knots.

Preparing the mast cap and cross trees - Take the larger of the two mast caps and drill six 0.7mm holes as shown, to fit six eyebolts; cut the shanks so they don't project from the opposite side. - If painting or staining, its best to do this before gluing the eyebolts and securing the blocks to the mast cap, but do not paint/stain the internal square and round cut-out of the mast cap. Then glue in place the eyebolts and secure two small blocks as shown.

Take the three cross tree arms, mark the centre and then make a mark 2.5mm either side of the centre. Glue the fore-and-aft rails of the cross tree to the arms, making sure the gap between then is 5mm.
Paint or stain the cross trees to your chosen of finish.

Preparing the main topmast - The topmast tapers from one end to the other, reducing the 8mm dowel to 6mm. Cut the mast to length after tapering, as it is otherwise difficult to create an even taper right at the end of the mast.
Lay the mast on the plan and mark the two lower marks (there is no need to mark the upper points as these will be removed during tapering). Taper as advised in the instructions, turning the mast slowly as you sand along the length of the mast, check the taper at several points to ensure it is even, (It should be 6mm at the top, 7m at the mid point and 8mm at the base). When the mast has an even taper with the correct diameters all the way along it, mark the square section at the top of the mast, and cut the mast to the correct length.

The 70mm at the base of the mast needs to be an eight-sided octagon shape and the 40mm at its top needs to be square.
Place a 1mm thick piece of card under the thin end of the mast to keep the mast flat, then mark the eight corners of the octagon using the centre finder on the plan, the using a straight plank extend four of the eight corners to the top of the mast - This ensures that the square and octagon are properly aligned.

Then carve or file the top of the mast square, but a little at a time for the cross trees to slide snuggly over the square section but do not yet glue the cross trees in place.

Place the mast on the plan and mark the bottom of the cross trees support, and then carve an octagonal base for the cross trees support. Cut four pieces of 2x3mm strip to fit the octagon, chamfer the edges and glue in place and allow to dry. Then cut another four lengths and fit into the gaps, glue in place and allow to dry.
Use an emery board or small fine file to taper the mast support, using the plan as a guide to get the correct shape.

The octagon at the mast base can now be carved, then use then plan to mark the three holes near the bottom of the mast. The holes must be in a face that is parallel to the top square section.
Drill the holes square to the mast using a 1.5mm bit, then stain or paint the mast using the magazine pictures on page 13 as a guide, but do not paint/stain the topmast square section.

Fitting the main topmast - The topmast is secured to the main mast by the mast cap and the cross trees below the fighting top.
Start by trying the main topmast into the round hole of the mast cap ensuring the mast is able to pass through, remove and glue the mast top in position making sure it is straight and square, and making sure that the round hole is directly above the square hole in the main top.

For the hand mast, measure the distance from the main top cross tree (which is glued to the main mast) to the underside of the mast cap.
Now make the hand mast which is the short pole that fits into this space.
Cut the 3mm dowel 10mm shorter than the measurement just made (which is 2mm overlength and allows trimming for a perfect fit), then cut two pieces of 4x4mm strip, each 6mm long and centrally glue one block to both ends of the dowel, and set aside to dry.
Then check that the hand mast fits to the length as necessary but do not glue into place as yet.

Cut a piece of brass wire 10 to 11mm long and file the ends square. Then slide the topmast through the mast cap, insert the brass wire into the lower hole in the topmast base, then push the mast down until the brass wire sits on the cross trees.
When you are happy with the fit glue the mast in place ensuring the two sections of mast are in alignment and that the square top section is parallel to the square on the lower mast.

Paint/stain the topmast as per the magazine photos.

DO NOT yet glue the main mast into the hull!

That's it for this week, carefully store any remaining parts for later use.

Future issues:

Isue 64 - Contains dowel & wood strip, assorted blocks, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studding sail boom irons, gun port wriggles and slings; and has instructions for the making of the main topgallant pole/mast, and adding the rigging blocks to the main mast.

Issue 65 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studdingsail boom irons, assorted blocks and slings, plus a bonus pot of copper paint (one of two); and has instructions for constructing & dressing the main yard, finishing and adding the rigging blocks.
65 also give's you the option to have Running or Standing rigging on your model, (with or without Sails) where the rigging is different to both versions, and is where you need to make a decision as to your chosen route.

Issue 66 - Contains assorted wood strips, mast rings, pin rail bitts, assorted etched brass stanchions, black thread & hammock netting, brass wire, eyebolts, dowels, cleats, brass rings, pins & die cast pulley blocks, plus a second bonus pot of copper paint; and has instructions for staining & copper painting of the lower hull.

For modellers who wish to finish the lower hull of the model with real copper, a special copper sheathing tile set of the correct scale size tile will be available via the DeAgostini web site shop & order form within a coming issue.
The pack contains enough tiles to complete the task along with instructions for placement; cost will be advised at the point of going on sale.

Issue 67 - Contains a 1:1 fore mast plan set, assorted wood strips and fore mast top parts; and has instructions for assembling the fore mast top.

Issue 65 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studdingsail boom irons, assorted blocks and slings, plus a bonus pot of copper paint (one of two); and has instructions for constructing & dressing the main yard, finishing and adding the rigging blocks.
This issue also give's you the option to to choose Running or Standing rigging for your model (with or without Sails), where the rigging is different to both versions, and issue 65 is where you need to make this decision.

The Yard plans are on the reverse side of the mast plans, some of the parts you will need were provided with issue 64, the parts provided with this issue include some of the wood and fittings for the other main mast yards, which you will be constructing later in the series.

Constructing the main yard - The main yard is the largest and lowest of the three yards carried on the main mast, it carries the longer (180mm) studdingsail booms, which are also shown on the plan, at bottom left.

Start by taking the 7mm diameter dowel and mark the position of the thick octagonal reinforcement in the centre section of the yard. the dowel is supplied overlength - leave an equal overhang on each end and only cut it to length AFTER tapering the spar.

Use the centre finder to mark the eight corners for the octagonal section on one end of the dowel, then use a 3 or 4mm strip to extend the corners to the centre section.
Working between the lines, start by carving the dowel to a square section which is 6mm wide, using four of the marked corners as a guide, and to complete the octagon, carefully pare off each of the corners of the square.

Taper the ends of the spar until the larger hole of the quarter irons slides to the correct point shown on the plans. The yard end should be 3mm in diameter when the taper is correct, sand the yard smooth.

Cut eight lengths of 2x4mm wood to fit the centre section, taper the edges so that they will fit the octagonal section; using the plan as a guide, sand the corners of the ends.
Fit four of these strips to the octagonal centre section on alternate flats, and allow the glue to dry completely before continuing.
Add four remaining strips in the gaps to complete the octagonal section, allow the glue to dry thoroughly and then sand smooth the centre section.

Glue the two laser-cut yard slings to the centre section, using the plan as a guide to the correct location.

Carefully drill a 1mm hole into the centre of each end of the yard for the fitting of the studdingsail boom irons.

Main yard studdingsail booms: These are shown inthe bottom left corner of the plan - 180mm long, (the main topmast studding sail boom is shown bottom right).
Start by tapering two of the 3mm dowel booms to 2mm as shown on the plans (ensure you identify the correct pair of booms for the main yard)

Dressing the yard - Before adding the rigging blocks, stain or paint the yard to your chosen finish option; then add the quarter iron hoops for the studding sail booms, the central rope bindings, and foot rope supports.

Fit the studdingsail boom irons and quarter irons at each end of the yard, in the positions shown on the plan, Note that they have to be angled slightly upwards, at 30 degrees relative to the slings, glue the irons to the yard using superglue.

Make the footropes as shown in the magazine, to tone down the brass wire I used a 'browning' fluid to give a rope like colour to the foot rope supports, which in real life would be rope.

Adding the rigging blocks - The yard is rigged with blocks that are used to attach it to the mast and control the sails.
You have the option for Running or Standing rigging on your model, (with or without Sails) where the rigging is different to both versions, now and is where you need to make a decision as to your chosen route.

If you are building the 'bare spars' version of the ship (Standing rigging without sails), you can omit the blocks marked with a star on the plans

The 'Official' build is following the route of the 'bare spars' option - i.e no sails.

The magazine steps have instructions for Running rigging (with sails).

Fit the blocks as per your chosen rigging option as shown on the plan, then fit the booms and secure with a drop of superglue.

That's it for this week, carefully store the completed yard and remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 66 - Contains assorted wood strips, mast rings, pin rail bitts, assorted etched brass stanchions, black thread & hammock netting, brass wire, eyebolts, dowels, cleats, brass rings, pins & die cast pulley blocks, plus a second bonus pot of copper paint; and has instructions for staining & copper painting of the lower hull.

For modellers who wish to finish the lower hull of the model with real copper tiles, a special copper sheathing pack containing the correct scale size tile will shortly be available via the DeAgostini web site shop & order form within a coming issue.
The pack contains enough tiles to complete the task along with instructions for placement; cost will be advised at the point of going on sale.

Issue 67 - Contains a 1:1 fore mast plan set, assorted wood strips and fore mast top parts; and has instructions for assembling the fore mast top.

Issue 68 - Contains dowel, assorted wood strips, mast cheeks, side guides, mast cap, mast cleats, mast collar, deadeyes, blocks, brown, black & natural thread and eyebolts; and has instructions for the shaping, assembling and rigging of the lower fore mast.

Issue 69 - Contains dowel, assorted wood strips, guides & cradles, assorted bocks, foretop cap, thread, brass wire, eyebolts and a gun kit, and has instructions for making the fore topmast and its fitting to the lower mast.