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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/01/2014 Posts: 119 Points: 343 Location: Newcastle
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I have never completed a plastic model kit before, I made them as a kid but the finish was just a very sloppy coating of the paints that came with them. I have a few good models stashed up but before I wreck them with sloppy skills I bought a few cheap kits to practice on. This small snow speeder is my first attempt at painting a model and applying decals so I haven't tried anything fancy. reading through the how too's I have learned I need to spray the model in gloss to give the decals a better surface. but what I can't find out is should I have the clear parts of the model covered so they don't get gloss on them, have I jumped the gun by removing the masking I put on for painting? Thanks Barry Bazholding attached the following image(s): Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
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You will need to cover the glass areas, as they will become frosted with the varnish. You have done an excellent job so far, I would probably go for a matt varnish or a satin varnish as gloss will be too shiny for the model unless you intend to dull it down afterwards. Mark
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/01/2014 Posts: 119 Points: 343 Location: Newcastle
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Thanks Mark Going off all the different things I have read I was intending too spray with gloss to add the decals and then spray with a Matt or satin afterwards Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello Barry,
Normal sequence of events in painting a model with clear parts would be:
1 - Build the model to pre-painting stage including attaching the clear parts.
2 - Clear coat the clear parts using a good quality gloss varnish. Tamiya X-22 is a good one and dries hard. I also use what was once known as 'Johnsons Klear' which was a liquid floor polish, now remarketed as 'Pledge' liquid floor polish.
3 - Once the clearcoat is properly dried, mask off the parts that you want to leave clear. If you want to show the interior colour of the cockpit framing, for example a dark grey or cockpit interior green, spray that colour over the outside of the frames and allow to dry.
4 - Then spray the main external colours over the frames and the rest of the model and allow to dry. You will still be able to see the interior frame colours inside the cockpit when looking through the windows if you chose to take that route.
5 - Gloss varnish the whole of the model and allow to dry.
6 - Apply the decals.
7 - If you intend to use any kind of dark 'wash' to highlight any details and panel lines, then you first need to apply another thin layer of gloss varnish over the whole model to cover and seal the decals, apply your chosen wash and then finish with whatever final coat you want. If you aren't using a detail/line wash then you can just cover the decals in whatever varnish you want to represent the final finish with, be it matt, satin or gloss then leave to dry and you're finished?
**NOTE** - When using a wash, if your main layers of paint are acrylic, use an oil or enamel wash or if your main layers are oil/enamel then you need to seal them first with a gloss acrylic varnish otherwise if you don't, the solvents in your oil wash will affect the oil/enamel paint layers you are washing over and make a bit of a mess of it! If you alternate layers of paint/varnish between acrylic and enamel they won't have any affect on each other, acrylic won't affect acrylic provided the previous layer is fully dried, but oil/enamel will definitely affect any oil/enamel under layers EVEN if they are already dried. Also don't apply thin layers of acrylic over thicker layers of oil/enamel unless they are fully cured other wise you may end up with cracking/crazing of the paint. Thick oil/enamel paint over thin acrylic will be fine. The golden rule with most paints when layering is "Fat over thin, NOT thin over fat? It's all to do with differing surface tensions in the layers as the paint dries.
Hope that helps?  
Kev 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Also some clear coats slide off clear parts, personally I would no go there unless it was to use Future to improve the clarity.
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,233 Points: 12,847 Location: ipswich
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Future - also called Klear, is a domestic liquid polish usually used on flooring.
Yes, sounds strange to use it on models but it's a great all-round sealant and finisher, and dries satin unless you apply heavy or several coats. Then it's a real gloss.
Just brush it on over your decals and when dry, you will hardly know you've applied it. It doesn't leave brush marks as it's thin, and flows beautifully.
Also, it dries in 5-10 minutes.
Great stuff, and blinkin' cheap for the amount you get in a bottle.
Roy.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Tomick wrote:Also some clear coats slide off clear parts, personally I would no go there unless it was to use Future to improve the clarity.
A valid point Tom, as you say, not all clear coats are the same and Johnsons Klear is always better in my opinion.
roymattblack wrote: ... and dries satin unless you apply heavy or several coats. Then it's a real gloss ...
I usually polish the transparency to a good shine first using 'Micro-Mesh' up to 12000 grit then wipe clean and apply just two thin coats of Johnsons Klear by brush, buffing with a lint free cloth after each coat. You are right Roy, it will dry fairly satin if you don't buff it but being a polish it will come up to a good shine and dramatically increases the clarity of the transparency if buffed up properly. As you say Roy, a great product and great value too!
You can see the shine and clarity in the photo below of my Airfix 1:72 Mustang P-51D.
Kev ModelMania attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/01/2014 Posts: 119 Points: 343 Location: Newcastle
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thanks for all the help everybody. looks like I need to get the masking tape back out lol Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Future/Klear - if you are looking for this i think you will find it has changed its name yet again and is now called Pledge Multi-Surface Wax. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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