|
|
|
|
I have well and truly had my thinking cap on when I came to building the light-saber. My initial thought was to place an LED to the front end to produce a beam of light, but that just looked like a torch. I didn’t want to add a staff at the end either as it was going to be placed in the top of R2. Over many hours of deliberation, I decided to make a crystal in the crystal chamber itself. I have pondered and experimented over several hours how I wanted this to be achieved, and also for it to clip together again firmly in the open and closed positions. I have still a lot of work to do to finish it off, hopefully with some copper tubing around the crystal sliding as you open it. But here is a sample of my progress. Once I am satisfied and completed it, I will be putting a full tutorial and instructions with it should anyone wish to do something similar. More soon Markwarren attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
I have now finished the lightsaber with the crystal inset in the body. I have set up a tutorial of how this was achieved, and instructions should anyone want to do something similar.
Warning: Any alterations done are at your own risk and will invalidate the parts in question, so please only attempt this if you feel comfortable doing so.
So here is the drawing I did showing the workings, to give a better guide and how it looks when finished.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
So here we go. First, I bought a keyring lightsaber toy from Amazon, although I’m sure you could get these from other sources, shown in the first picture. I then cut a piece off the lit end, so it will fit into the body. This was then sanded down smooth with a glass file.
Tape was then used to give a tight fit when inserting into the housing. I used ordinary electrical tape for the end, where it will not be seen and some 6mm copper tape I had as shown.Markwarren attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Fit the blade emitter onto the stabilising ring housing and carefully cut off the plastic end as shown. Cut this piece carefully as it will be needed later on. Next, glue the lightsaber hilt to the power cell.
Then fit the activator mount onto the crystal housing lining up the two screw holes. Once this has been done, file the screw ends down that are showing on the inside of the housing.Markwarren attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Test fit the toy keyring lightsaber in the housing as shown and do a dry run fit with all of the other parts to make sure the lit end you have cut down fits when you attach the power cell housing. Further filing may be needed.
Groove out 3 notches at equal distance on the inside of the piece cut off the stabilising ring housing, taking care not to cut the ring itself. Then cut some thin brass rods to the same length of the lit end, which will become the crystal.
Then using some copper tape as shown, attached the brass rods to the crystal.Markwarren attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Then placed a wooden dowel into the hilt and power cell area and fix a strong magnet to the dowel. This will hold the saber together in the closed position.
Cut a round piece of plastic, the same diameter as the inside of the crystal chamber, and glue it to the end of the crystal. Then add some magnets to the end. Note, please test fit this section to make sure it closes snug and alter accordingly. When gluing the plastic circle onto the crystal, make sure this is done with the crystal fitted in its housing to centralise this piece.
The third picture shows how the plastic ring fits into the housing, and once you have glued the end piece cut off the stabilising ring, it will stop the crystal from coming out of the housing.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Finally glue the ring that you cut off earlier into the crystal chamber, fitting the notch into the housing. Then from the other end feed the crystal assembly into the housing as shown and attached it into the stabilising chamber.
Now glue the power cell and hilt assembly onto the crystal chamber. Note, make sure everything fits before doing this process.Markwarren attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
That’s it. I then added some buttons to the side of the activator mount.
Here are the final pictures. I hope you enjoyed it. Happy modelling.Markwarren attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
US
