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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/08/2018 Posts: 3 Points: 9 Location: Nottingham
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New to forum so apologies if already answered
When running the first test print bed raises then says it’s heating but heat turns off, also bed is a long way off the nozzle.?
Any help would be great
Thanks
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 Hi Cris Firstly welcome to the forum. This has happened before the printer is waiting for the bed to warm up but because its not heated the print wont start. if you look at the user guide in magazine 10, page 258, picture 2 you will see the 'default heated bed temp' is set at 60 change this to 0 and all should work ok after that. Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/08/2018 Posts: 3 Points: 9 Location: Nottingham
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hi
changed bed temp to 0
extruder not heating during print run ???
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Try this:- The issue may be the g code of the print.In many 3d files there is a g code instruction at the start of the g code which tells repetier host to wait until the print bed is up to temperature.The IDBOX printer does not have a heated print bed so the program never gets beyond this step. Here is a description of how to fix it and my protocol for printing.I have been printing with my IDBOX for 3 months and it is working really well. Did you check the g code to see if it is waiting for the bed to heat up.I had the same problem and discovered there was a command at the start of the g code that told the printer to waiting until the bed had heated up before starting the print so repetier host wont print because the bed is not heated.This happens even if you turn off the bed in the manual control screen. If you look at the g code in the g code editor screen you will see a command to wait for the printer bed to heat up; The command is M190 S50 M190 refers to the bed and the S50 tells repetier host to wait until the bed is heated to 50 degrees to start printing. All you need to do is change the code to M190 S0 and the printer should start printing. Here is how I do my prints; 1.Load the object file into repetier host. Scale it to the size I want, center it and then slice it with curaengine. 2.Once the slicing has finished I check the g code to look for the M190 command and make sure the s is set to 0. 3.I always use a raft because often the first part of the print doesnt stick well to the bed (common to all 3d printers).The raft makes sure that once you actually start printing the object the filament is sticking down really well. 4.I then go to the manual control screen and turn the extruder on. 5.For PLA I set the extruder temp to 210 degrees. 6.Once the extruder is at working temp I press on the extruder button (set to 10) in the manual control to extrude so filament to see if it is melting OK.I find it is easier to do this now before the print table is really close to the print head. 7.I then go to the print menu and start the print. The printer will home the x and y axis and then the print bed will lower all the way down to it home position for the z axis and then move back up to the print head.As it gets close to the print head (within 20mm) the print head should start moving to the center of the print bed.The filament will start extruding. 8. The raft prints first.Then it will print your object.There is a timer telling you how long the print will take. Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/08/2018 Posts: 3 Points: 9 Location: Nottingham
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hi
just run through that and its working fine now
many thanks
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Glad to be of help Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2017 Posts: 52 Points: 210 Location: basildon/thurrock
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arpurchase wrote:Try this:-
The issue may be the g code of the print.In many 3d files there is a g code instruction at the start of the g code which tells repetier host to wait until the print bed is up to temperature.The IDBOX printer does not have a heated print bed so the program never gets beyond this step. Here is a description of how to fix it and my protocol for printing.I have been printing with my IDBOX for 3 months and it is working really well.
Did you check the g code to see if it is waiting for the bed to heat up.I had the same problem and discovered there was a command at the start of the g code that told the printer to waiting until the bed had heated up before starting the print so repetier host wont print because the bed is not heated.This happens even if you turn off the bed in the manual control screen.
If you look at the g code in the g code editor screen you will see a command to wait for the printer bed to heat up;
The command is M190 S50
M190 refers to the bed and the S50 tells repetier host to wait until the bed is heated to 50 degrees to start printing.
All you need to do is change the code to M190 S0 and the printer should start printing.
Here is how I do my prints;
1.Load the object file into repetier host. Scale it to the size I want, center it and then slice it with curaengine.
2.Once the slicing has finished I check the g code to look for the M190 command and make sure the s is set to 0.
3.I always use a raft because often the first part of the print doesnt stick well to the bed (common to all 3d printers).The raft makes sure that once you actually start printing the object the filament is sticking down really well.
4.I then go to the manual control screen and turn the extruder on.
5.For PLA I set the extruder temp to 210 degrees.
6.Once the extruder is at working temp I press on the extruder button (set to 10) in the manual control to extrude so filament to see if it is melting OK.I find it is easier to do this now before the print table is really close to the print head.
7.I then go to the print menu and start the print. The printer will home the x and y axis and then the print bed will lower all the way down to it home position for the z axis and then move back up to the print head.As it gets close to the print head (within 20mm) the print head should start moving to the center of the print bed.The filament will start extruding.
8. The raft prints first.Then it will print your object.There is a timer telling you how long the print will take. Hi I’m having similar problems it gets to 15mm of the head then just stops the head doesn’t move I’ve set it al up so the head moves freely any clue please help
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Hi Bigliz This has happened before the printer is waiting for the bed to warm up but because its not heated the print wont start. If you look at the user guide in magazine 10, page 258, picture 2 you will see the 'default heated bed temp' is set at 60 change this to 0 and all should work ok after that. Once you have reset the above try running through the running advice above. Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2017 Posts: 52 Points: 210 Location: basildon/thurrock
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arpurchase wrote:Hi Bigliz
This has happened before the printer is waiting for the bed to warm up but because its not heated the print wont start. If you look at the user guide in magazine 10, page 258, picture 2 you will see the 'default heated bed temp' is set at 60 change this to 0 and all should work ok after that.
Once you have reset the above try running through the running advice above.
Andy I have tried that but it still goes to 15mm and stops
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A couple of questions, In the assembly did you get the green light from the circuit board as per the instructions. Also did you set up the head to the bed distance as per the instructions and can you double check the connections to the power box and circuit board and also the check the temperature sensor in the print head for damage. When the print starts is the heater switched off or on at the print screen on the software. Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2017 Posts: 52 Points: 210 Location: basildon/thurrock
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Tanks for everyone’s advice especially arpurchase I changed the g code as u said and it printed straight away. It wasn’t a great print my fault completely but not to bad for my first print I need to adjust the bed height a bit more I think here’s a link to the print please like, share and subscribe and any comment good or bad are welcome https://youtu.be/XQuDsSghjMQ
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Glad you got it sorted and happy printing Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Not bad for a first print.i think your bed height needs slight adjustment.The sinking on the top of the cube was probably caused by too low an infill and not enough layers.Flat surface can be difficult for 3d printers because if you dont have sufficient infill there is not enough support for the horizontal layers.You may need to go to 25% infill and at least 8 layers to get a smoother top. This calibration piece is really helpful to see how well your printer is doing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409
The other thing you may need to look at is nozzle temperature.Sometimes going up or down 5 degrees gives you a better print.It takes a bit of trial and error to get things dialed in. Carl
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2017 Posts: 52 Points: 210 Location: basildon/thurrock
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darbyvet wrote:Not bad for a first print.i think your bed height needs slight adjustment.The sinking on the top of the cube was probably caused by too low an infill and not enough layers.Flat surface can be difficult for 3d printers because if you dont have sufficient infill there is not enough support for the horizontal layers.You may need to go to 25% infill and at least 8 layers to get a smoother top. This calibration piece is really helpful to see how well your printer is doing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409
The other thing you may need to look at is nozzle temperature.Sometimes going up or down 5 degrees gives you a better print.It takes a bit of trial and error to get things dialed in. Carl Thank Carl any clue what’s causing the front face to not be the right size
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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bigliz7 wrote:darbyvet wrote:Not bad for a first print.i think your bed height needs slight adjustment.The sinking on the top of the cube was probably caused by too low an infill and not enough layers.Flat surface can be difficult for 3d printers because if you dont have sufficient infill there is not enough support for the horizontal layers.You may need to go to 25% infill and at least 8 layers to get a smoother top. This calibration piece is really helpful to see how well your printer is doing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409
The other thing you may need to look at is nozzle temperature.Sometimes going up or down 5 degrees gives you a better print.It takes a bit of trial and error to get things dialed in. Carl Thank Carl any clue what’s causing the front face to not be the right size It could be a number of things.the first thing I would do is get the nozzle to build table gap right.If it the nozzle is too close it may be dragging in the print and causing misalignment problems. You can print a simple cube with no detail on it to see if your build table is level. Carl
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Rank: Newbie Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 06/12/2021 Posts: 1 Points: 3 Location: USA
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Hi, maybe the real problem lies in the model files themselves. Often due to poor quality models the 3D printer can not perform its functions at 100%. For example, I take all the models on the site https://3dbaza.com/Building and never had any problems. You can try it yourself. I think not only you will be useful! Good luck!
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