|
|
 Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Hi Just wondering if anyone can give me advice on a certain issue am not sure about. Am on stages 16-19 of the red bull rb7. when I fitted the steering crank on to the steering slider, I noticed the washers (the ones that keep the steering slider in place) are stopping the slider from going all the way left and right due to the washers catching on both sides of the steering crank. if I slightly lift the steering slider it clears it but if I use the servo arm to move the steering slider it catches again. I am using the correct washers provided with this stage. don't know if anybody else as had this, just need a little advice from someone. Thank you.
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
It sounds like you have something not quite as it should be; Can you check your assembly against that shown in the official build https://forum.model-spac...aspx?g=topics&f=157 and if you can’t ascertain what the cause is, can you post a few photos of the problem area.
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
HI I have sent an attachment on my previouse post and on this post for you to look at. it looks right according to the photos you sent me a link for. but is the crank suppose to stop at the washers or go past them?
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
The steering crank should clear over the top of the washers. However, the steering crank left to right movement is not intended to go beyond the washers/screws if its pushrod has the correct adjusted length.
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Yeah ok. But the steering crank catches on the washers
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
Nathb5 wrote:Yeah ok. But the steering crank catches on the washers Not so on the one I’ve just checked. You could consider filing some of the radius out of the crank side of the washers so that the crank passes ok but even so, the crank is not intended to go beyond this point. Have you actually checked the operation under servo movement via the RC rather than by hand movement?
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Thanks for that the advice worked on filing down on the washers sides of the crank. Just one more thing in the instructions it says to screw the rod all the way till it stops does that mean no thread should be showing on the rod and what should be the position of the steering slider when the arm is fitted to the servo.
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
Nathb5 wrote:Thanks for that the advice worked on filing down on the washers sides of the crank. Just one more thing in the instructions it says to screw the rod all the way till it stops does that mean no thread should be showing on the rod and what should be the position of the steering slider when the arm is fitted to the servo. Yes, screw the ball end onto the steering rod in a clockwise direction until it stops. There will be approx. 5mm of thread still showing. The steering slider should be central.
It's a good idea to centre the servo before fitting its horn. Connect the steering servo to the Receiver and Battery pack and Switch on the car and RC handset, this will automatically reset the steering servo to the central position, then secure the steering horn on to the Servo.
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Thanks for the advice it’s sorted now. But I do need a bit of advice on the front shocks.i have filled them with oil and put the new washers on which is amended on the second shock. Removed all air bubbles but what am unsure about is when I push the shock in the shaft doesn’t spring back. Is this suppose to Be like this because when I put the spring on all seems fine.
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
Nathb5 wrote:Thanks for the advice it’s sorted now. But I do need a bit of advice on the front shocks.i have filled them with oil and put the new washers on which is amended on the second shock. Removed all air bubbles but what am unsure about is when I push the shock in the shaft doesn’t spring back. Is this suppose to Be like this because when I put the spring on all seems fine. Correct, it’s the Spring that keeps the shaft in check.
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Thanks again for the advice.
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Hi again I have looked on the forum for advice. Found similar but no answer to the issue have got. The front shock as an adjustment towards the final stages with the new ball end to Give extra height to the front end of the model. yes it’s lifted it up but because it’s so high with the longer ball end, and a 7mm distance, the steering slider where the trim rods fit are catching both ends when the wheels are at full lock. If You look at the front and when I turn the wheels with the controller I can see the opposite wheel is restricted and doesn’t go all the way in. So if the front of the right wheel goes out towards the right, the right wheel is clear but the left wheel doesn’t follow parallel to the right wheel due to the fact that the steering slider end (where the trim rods join) are catching underneath the left pushrod, and visa versa. I tried reducing the 7mm clearance to 6mm on the front shocks but it’s still to high to bring it down enough to give the steering slider free movement. . So my issue is the opposite to the other issue on the forum it’s the shocks been too long. Could I go any shorter than 6mm would doing this cause damage or strain on the springs. Please could someone advise me on what I can do to resolve this issue. I will attach photos so you can see the problem.
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
Unfortunately your photos don't reveal what the cause might be. Have you used the correct ball ends as described in this link..
http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=11718
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Sorry I will get better photos later. But I have checked and they are the correct ball ends. But the car is higher in comparison to the back suspension.
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Have tried taking more and attaching to my last post. The suspension is set all the way back and as far as the L brackets can go.
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Have just looked at the website and one of the pictures that’s shown in the purchase screen for the rb7 shows narrower push rods you can see it in the picture on the website purchase screen I can’t attach the photo but the photo attached shows my model. there is clearance with a different pushrod compared to the ones in the Instructions the ones I have.
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
Can you compare the parts you have with those shown in the official build, they should be identical.
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Yes in the official build they are identical
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2018 Posts: 13 Points: 39
|
Would adjusting the shocks 2mm less to 5mm instead of 7mm be ok
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
Nathb5 wrote:Would adjusting the shocks 2mm less to 5mm instead of 7mm be ok Yes, the the shocks are intended to be adjustable.
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
US
