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Issue 98 contains – Head Sensor Housing Buffers, Head Sensor Housing Top, Head Sensor Housing Base, Ultrasound Sensor Cover, Circuit Board Supports, Lens Cover Seals, Mounting Washers, Fixing Screws.
Fitting the camera and lens cover.
Take R2-D2’s dome and faceplate, the camera and lens from Issue 97 and the two seals provided this time.
Carefully peel the protective cover off the camera lens, then carefully peel the protective cover off the self-adhesive strip on the back. With the camera the correct way up, fit the ribbon connector through the hole in the camera mount. Feed the ribbon connector through until the camera reaches the mount and stick it into its correct position. Secure the camera to the mount with two 2 x 4mm screws. Take care that the ribbon cable does not get kinked or bent as this may prevent the camera from working.
You now need to stick the two foam lens cover seals in their correct locations. Peel off the backing from the first lens cover seal and stick the strip horizontally along the correct surface. Stick the second strip vertically along the black plastic surface below the first strip, tucking it behind the metal dome.
Unscrew the lens cover holder from R2-D2’s blue faceplate and lift it away, followed by the existing lens cover. Peel the protective film off the replacement lens cover and fit it into the faceplate. Refit the lens cover holder and screw it into place.Fit the two hooked tabs on the faceplate assembly into the slots above and below the opening in the dome and slide the faceplate to the left to lock it in place.
Preparing the cables.
Take the front panel assembly and uncoil the lead for the arm motor. Feed the plug on the end down through the motor mounting so you can run the lead down the front panel. Take the A-M label, clip it over the lead near to the plug and press it closed. Repeat the procedure to fit the U-TX, U-RX and switch board labels. Fit the MIC label to the microphone cable in the dome assembly and also add the HM label to the head motor.
Now take the ultrasound cover provided with this Issue. Unscrew the two screws to the left and right of the upper ultrasound sensor. Fit the ultrasound sensor cover and replace the screws to hold it in position.
Making the connections.
The cables you have labelled plug into the sockets in the MCU or sensor control board, matching up the letter codes. Make the connections as and when shown in the instructions.
Fitting the front panel.
Holding the front panel close to R2-D2, feed all of the cables under the centre frame and over the electronics boards. Carefully offer up the front panel. As you bring the front panel closer, ease the cables through to ensure they don’t get trapped. The holes near the top and bottom of the side panel need to end up aligned with the matching holes in the framework when the front panel is in its final position.Make the cable connections as shown in the instructions.
Fitting the rotary sensor housing.
Take the head sensor housing top, head sensor housing base, both rubber buffers and two 2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws.
Fit a rubber buffer to each end of the housing top, ensuring they are the correct way round. Take the housing base and align it with the assembly, then fit the parts together and secure them with the two self-tapping screws.
Undo the flanged screw holding the centre stop between the sensors and remove the centre stop. Fit the slot in the middle of the housing assembly over the projecting part of the ring frame and secure it by replacing the flanged screw you removed previously.
Fitting the dome motor support.
Take the dome motor assembly, plus the two mounting washers, four 2.5 x 8mm screws and four 2.5mm spring washers provided this time.
Fit one washer onto the rear side of each of the leg support brackets, with the small hole over the locating pin and the large hole over the screw hole in the bracket.
Insert the dome motor assembly into the frame with the H-M lead at the bottom and the motor facing the rear of R2-D2. Fit the four small holes in the motor support plate onto the locating pins on the leg support brackets which will align the screw holes. Fit a spring washer over a 2.5 x 8mm screw and, being careful not to let the washer fall off, drive the screw through one of the holes in the motor support and into the bracket. Repeat the procedure to screw all four corners of the motor support plate to the brackets. Take the H-M cable from the dome motor and fit it into the H-M socket on the MCU, making sure the plug fits securely.
Fitting the dome support.
Invert the dome onto its polystyrene packaging for support. Take the end of the mic cable and route the cable as shown in the instructions.
Take the pivot support and align the three legs correctly, making sure that the leg which has a projecting lug goes next to the lightsaber tube. Secure the pivot support by screwing the two holes in the end of each leg to the ring frame, using six 2.5 x 4mm screws.
This Issue is now complete.
Carefully store any remaining parts in an issue labelled bag for future use.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Issue 99 contains – Dome Circuit Board.
WARNING:- The PCB is very sensitive and is easily damaged by static electricity. Once removed from its anti-static bag always handle it with care and in accordance with the instructions.
NOTE-Photo 1 shows the underneath of the circuit board case with its vent holes, the 2nd Photo shows the top of circuit board case showing the blue circuit board having had the plain transit cover removed.
Carefully cut through the anti-static bag close to the seal and carefully remove the circuit board. Take the two brackets and two of the 2.5 x 6mm flanged screws from Issue 98. Holding the part of the case with the ventilation slots, lift off the plain cover, avoiding touching the circuit board itself.
Take one of the brackets and align its mounting hole with the lug on the case next to the WiFi aerial. Screw the bracket to the lug with a 2.5 x 6mm flanged screw. Line up the other bracket with the other lug, noting that it fits at an angle, and fix it in place with the other 2.5 x 6mm flanged screw.
Invert the head assembly on its polystyrene packing and take the circuit board and four 2.5 x 6mm screws. Carefully fit the two brackets under the correct two arms of the Y-shaped pivot support. Hold it in place while you attach it to the arms with 2.5 x 6mm screws in all four holes.
Make sure that you have discharged any static charge and use a fingertip to open the ‘clam shelf’ edge connector.
Take the ribbon connector from the camera, pass it under the frame and fit the end into the open edge connector. Carefully press the cover of the edge connector down so that it closes on the ribbon connector locking it into position.
Now lead the Mic cable up past the corner of the circuit board and plug the end into the two pin socket on the board.
This Issue is now complete.
Carefully store any remaining parts in an issue labelled bag for future use.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Issue 100 contains – Mains Adapter, Distribution Board Cable, PCB Cable, Speaker Cable, Cable Tidy, Plastic Studs, Sticker For Switch Board.
Wiring
Start by taking the extension speaker cable, which has a red and black wire. Locate the white speaker socket on the MCU and plug the end of the extension cable into it. Take the other end back over the sensor control board and route it under the top ring frame.
Take the C-IN labels from Issue 97 and the cable that has plugs with 10 holes in them. Fit one label near to the white plug and one near to the red plug.Take the H-OUT labels from Issue 97 and the cable that has plugs with 12 holes. Clip the H-OUT labels near to both plugs.
Lay out the C-IN and H-OUT cables so that the red plug on one is next to the white plug on the other. Take the cable tidy and twist it around both cables to keep them together.
Take the end that has a red H-OUT plug and a white C-IN plug. Fit the red plug into the 12 pin socket in the distribution board you fitted in Issue 66. Correctly route the cables so you can fit the white plug into the 12 pin socket in the PCB from Issue 99, being careful not to touch the PCB itself. Use a cable tie to secure the cable tidy to the adjacent arm of the Y-shaped pivot support. Pull the cable tidy tight and clip off the surplus.
Fitting the head and back.
Take the shorter spindle, provided with Issue 96, and fit it down through the pivot support, all the way into the bearing at the top of R2-D2’s dome. Hold the dome close to the top of R2-D2’s body so that you can feed the bundle of cables down past the dome drive shaft, through the ‘D’ shaped guide of the cable retainer, and through the square hole on the right of the motor support.
Using two fingers to stop the spindle from dropping out, invert the dome and offer it up the correct way round so you can feed the spindle into the drive shaft, carefully lowering the dome until it fits flush with the body. You may have to turn the assembly slightly so that the four webs at the centre of the dome support fit all the way down into the slots at the top of the drive shaft. You should now be able to turn the head by hand almost 180o in both directions until the lug on the Y-shaped support frame hits the buffers you installed on the rotary sensor housing in Issue 98.
Make sure the cables you routed are not tangled and that they are long enough the reach the MCU. Fit the white H-OUT plug into the large socket on the right-hand side of the MCU. Fit the red C-IN plug into the socket further down the MCU. Use another cable tie to secure the bundle of cables to the motor support, pull it tight and cut off the surplus.
Stand the back panel alongside R2-D2. Take the speaker lead you fitted earlier and feed it out of the frame at the correct point so you can connect it to the plug on the speaker lead fitted to the back panel. Route the cable neatly round the base of the back panel and offer up the panel to the frame, fitting it all the way forwards until it sits flush with the front panel.
Make sure that the front and back panels go together without a significant gap. The gap between them and the dome should be an even 2.5mm or less all the way round.
Finishing touches.
Make sure the front panel is aligned with the hole in the frame and insert a 2.5 x 6mm screw to hold it in place. Fix the top of the back panel in the same way then use two more screws to secure the base of both panels. Repeat the process on the other side of R2-D2.
You may prefer to leave out the plastic plugs covering the screws holding the body until you have tested R2-D2 for the first time, just in case you need to troubleshoot any of the internal connections.
You have three sorts of plastic plugs for use in different screw holes. Separate them from the sprue. The short curved plugs go in the top holes in the front and back panels. The straight plugs go in the bottom holes in the front and back panels. The longer curved plugs go in the holes in R2-D2’s power packs to finish them off. Any other plugs should be used at this time to cover any screw holes still vacant.
Open the right-hand door to the tools compartment. Peel the backing off the sticker and apply the sticker just above the hinge and close the door.Open the flap above the lightsabre compartment and insert the lightsabre.
Powering up.
Refer to Issue 92 for information on testing and preparing the batteries, which MUST be done before installation.
Take your six prepared batteries and the short screwdriver. Undo the screws holding the battery access panel and slide it forward and down so you can take hold of the battery box and slide it out. Unscrew the two screws holding the battery box cover so you can slide it forward and release it.
Make sure that the main switch under R2-D2 remains turned off. Fit the first battery into the battery box, noting that the button-top positive (+) terminal goes at the end without a spring. Fit the other five batteries, noting that the positive terminals go at opposite ends in pairs.Refit the battery box cover and its screws. Slide the battery box back into its mount and screw the access panel back in place.
Plug the mains adapter into R2-D2. Plug the other end into the mains and turn it on. Leave for a couple of seconds, then turn it off and unplug both ends. This is a protection procedure to activate the battery and without doing this R2-D2 won’t turn on. You do not need to repeat this process and in future the adapter is only used to recharge the batteries. If R2-D2 is turned on his front red/blue status light will change colour and flashing sequence to indicate the charge level (see the user guide for details).
When the power is turned on, R2-D2 is able to start moving, so place him safely on the floor first.
Carefully read the instructions on how to control R2-D2 before proceeding.
Turn on the main power switch under R2-D2’s body. Press the bottom button (power On/off) on his front panel. He will jerk forward about 2cm to calibrate his motors, rotate his head in both directions, make a noise and illuminate status displays to indicate that he is ready for action.
Please refer to the magazine information regarding direct or local WI-FI control. This is further expanded in the online user guide which can be found in the URL noted in the magazine.
This completes the assembly of R2-D2. I hope you have enjoyed the build as much as I have.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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