Hi all,

I just saw this kit the other day and decided I've always wanted to build victory and seemed like the sensible option - rather than buying a full kit outright. I did start making plans a few years ago to do a scratch build of victory (idea didn't last long), and like the almost scheduled approach this method will give. So that was my Hi and introduction. I am wondering how much customisation I / others are planning on doing to this project

Also has anyone thought about how to sort out the edges of (I believe the correct term is chamfer) the bulkhead sections to get a good fit with the planking.

Do most just do this by eye/trial and error or does anyone use any technical knowhow to work out how much to actually do?

Thanks,

Hi mate welcome aboard. we all have our own ideas of how we want our build to look and we have discussions to that affect. as for the chamfer or shaping of the hull, I personally do it by eye using a strake to gauge my progress until I think it is good enough to be permanently attached, others will probably give you their view on how to do the job, either way we learn from each other and there are some really good people on here. Best of luck with your build mate.

the chamfering is shown on my victory build on the first lot of frames/bulkheads.
you are all correct,you use a strake and work out how much you need to take off.
I then draw a pencil line around the area of bevel and use a medium grade sandpaper/emery paper to bevel,however,some of the bulkheads angle quite severly so I use a mini drill with a sanding attachment
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karl, this is my first wooden build so I may be showing my inexperience here but I thought it was best to leave the chamferring until all the rib sections were in place? Isn't it easier that way so you can lay a plank along all the ribs to test the chamfer?

Thanks karl

3" stackes no thanks plank ends landing between bulk heads

With due respect to Karl, I really wouldn't start chamfering the frames until the frame is complete. The traditional way is to take a plank and place it along the hull. Using the Mk1 eyeball, see how it lies, and sand the frames until the plank lies evenly, touching the full width of the frame. You need the plank to lay on at least two frame either side of the one you're bevelling to see how the hull will curve. You also need to chamfer all the frames at the same time to make sure you're getting the frames chamfered evenly. I take the bulk of the material off by eye, then use the plank to gauge the final shape.

You'll need some fairly round sandpaper to start with as there is quite a lot of wood to come off the frames, particularly around the bow. I start with 80 grit, and a sanding block is essential. Watch that you don't chip the edges of the ply with rough sandpaper though.

You need the frames all securely glued in place before starting to chamfer, as you can't work properly with the frames lose.

Karl's method obviously works for him and I'm not knocking it, but personally I would stick with the traditional method, and I think it would be easier for beginners. However, feel free to make up your own mind.

Thanks Mark. What you've said here is pretty much the way I understood it should be done, and that's the way I'll do it. As you say karl's method works for him, and he's experienced enough to do it with confidence, as for me I'll do it the easiest and safest way possible for someone with my lack of experience

When I start construction on my Victory, I shall be inserting balsa wood in between the bow formers to increase the area for bonding the strakes to, does anybody else considering this a worthwhile pursuit?