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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The Vespa 150 GS was a milestone in the history of the motor scooter, not only for Vespa but for the market as a whole. It's remembered as the most beautiful scooter ever produced in the world and is now highly sort after.
The Vespa 150 GS model kit is a huge 1:3 scale and is only available as an all-in-one go Full Kit.
Model video: https://youtu.be/WrelrLduULQ
Further info about the Vespa 150 GS kit can be found here: https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=31004
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Build The Classic Vespa.
Stage 1
Stage 1 Contents: Upper handlebar cover, Speedometer components, Lower handlebar cover, Vespa GS badge, Warning light lens, Ignition lock, screws and screw covers.
Note- you are provided with enough screws to complete each section but without any spares. Any screws or nuts not used will be used later in the build so store them carefully in a labeled bag.
To assemble the speedometer, fit the 'glass' into the silver bezel frame. Make sure the parts are the correct way round with the two notches fitting over the notches in the glass. With the larger of the two sets of pins to the top, fit the speedometer into the frame. Fit the speedometer into the upper handlebar cover, noting the larger pins go to the front, then press the speedometer assembly firmly into place.
Holding the assembly in place, turn it over and offer up the speedometer case to the inside of the cover. Fix the two arms of the speedometer case to the cover using the two black crosshead screws provided, being careful not to overtighten.
Fit the ignition lock into the forward keyhole-shaped socket above the speedometer noting the back of the lock has a projecting lug that ensures it will only fit one way. Press firmly into position.
Like the lock, the light lens has a small projection that ensures it will only fit one way round in the keyhole-shaped socked nearest the speedometer.
Press the light lens fully into place so it fits flush.Holding the lock in place, turning the assembly over and secure the lock in place with the small silver crosshead screw provided, take care not to overtighten it.
This stage is now complete.
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 2
Stage 2 Contents: Front Wheel, Outer Rim, Front Fork Cover, Front Wheel Inner Rim, Piaggio Badge and Screws.
The Piaggio badge fits into the rectangular recess at the top of the steering cover. Fit the three mounting lugs on the back of the badge into their corresponding holes and press the badge firmly into place, the three lugs lock with a faint click.
Take the two halves of the front wheel and align the 5 pins from one half into the 5 recesses in the other.
Note: There is a gap between the two parts and the pins do not go all the way into their recesses.
Lay the assembly down with the 5 holes facing upwards. The two halves of the wheel are joined with the five screws provided in this pack.
Start screwing the first screw in place using a crosshead screwdriver, do not tighten the screw fully until you have put the other five screws in place.Continue to insert the other four screws, without tightening them fully. When all five screws are in place, go round and tighten them fully to complete the wheel assembly.
This stage is now complete
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 3
Stage 3 Contents: Front Tyre, Front Mudguard Crest, Horn Grille and Horn Body.
Take the front fork cover from Stage 2 and the two parts of the horn supplied in this stage.
Fit the transparent horn body into the circular recess on the front fork cover. Rotate the horn body so the four holes in its rim line up with the holes in the fork cover.With the horn grille orientated the correct way up, match up the four pins with the four holes and carefully fit the pins through the holes. Press the grille into place ensuring it is completely flush with the fork cover.
Now take the front tyre and the wheel assembled in Stage 2. Angle the wheel to fit into the tyre and keeping up a constant pressure ease the tyre walls over the wheel rim a little at a time.
Once fitted, check the tyre is evenly seated all the way around. If not, gently bounce the tyre on a flat surface to adjust the position.
This stage is now complete.
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 4
Stage 4 Contents: Front Fork, T-Bar Nut Spanner, Front Stub Axle, Nuts, Trailing Arm, Axle Retainer, Front Hub, Screws and a Flanged Screw.
Retrieve the front stub axle and axle retainer provided with this stage, together with the wheel you assembled in Stage 2. Lay the wheel flat with the circular recess and four screw holes facing uppermost. Fit the circular head of the stub axle into the recess in the middle of the wheel, then fit the axle retainer down the shaft of the axle.
Turn the axle retainer so its four holes line up with the holes in the wheel, then take the four small screws provided with this stage and loosely screw one into each of the four holes in the axle. Tighten the screws being careful not to tighten them excessively, the axle should remain free to rotate.
Fit the front hub over the stub axle, lining up the 2 flat surfaces to allow the stub axle to come all the way through the hub. Take the trailing arm and fit it over the stub axle and front hub lining up the 2 flat surfaces. With the arm fitted all the way onto the front hub, secure with one of the nuts provided in this stage and do the nut up finger tight. Use the T-Bar provided to tighten the nut.
The front wheel should be able to freely rotate around the hub assembly and trailing arm.
This stage is now complete.
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 5
Stage 5 Contents: Swingarm and Rubber Bump Stops.
Take one of the bump stops and locate the two black posts on the swingarm. Fit the bumpstop onto one of the posts making sure the rubber is pushed all the way onto the metal. Fit the second bump stop in the same way.
This stage is now complete.
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Looks a nice kit that’s going to be huge at 1/3 
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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This is looking sweet a must for scooter fans. Al
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Great to see this build up and running and at 1/3 scale the detail will be amazing....  .. Look forward to seeing more of this one..... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/02/2013 Posts: 80 Points: 243 Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
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is there a release date yet? as I am very interested.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Sparky1962 wrote:is there a release date yet? as I am very interested. Approx March Only as an all-in-one go kit.
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Wow, that really looks a neat kit. Its quite big aswell at 1:3. Great for ex Mods or scooter enthusiasts. On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Lovely kit, you could be forgiven to thinking you were building the real deal, with the pictures of just the parts.
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Rank: Superelite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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The level of detail on this kit looks amazing! And as for the size! Look at that swingarm. It's HUGE  I can just imagine this being built with Quadrophenia soundtrack in the background...ummm now there's a thought!
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Stage 6
Stage 6 Contents: Rear Stub axle, Swingarm Pivot Cover, Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket, Rear Brake Operating Arm, Dummy Fixing Bolts, Brake Arm Return Spring, Open-Ended Spanner, Hex-Headed Screws, Flanged Screw and Swingarm Pivot.
Slide the flat portion of the swingarm pivot into the corresponding flat inside the holes in the swingarm. If you have lined up the flat sections correctly, the swingarm pivot will push all the way in. If not, turn the swingarm pivot until it does. Take the swingarm pivot cover and line up the four small pins with the matching recesses in the swingarm casting, then fit the cover and press it all the way home.
Align the brake operating lever with the side of the swingarm. It is advisable to test fit the screw into the post on the swingarm, as it will cut its own thread, making it easier to assemble the operating arm.
Fit the operating arm over the post then fit the return spring over the post, pushing the shorter pin into the hole in the swingarm. Rotate the projecting end of the spring anti-clockwise until you can fit it into the groove running down the operating arm. Then, holding the assembly together, take the black screw with the wide flanged head supplied in Stage 4 and drive the screw into the post to retain the operating arm and spring. Check the end of the spring still sits in the groove, ensure the lever moves freely and the spring returns it to its position.
Hold the assembly the correct way up, align the shock absorber mounting bracket over the holes in the swingarm. Take the two dummy fixing bolts which have an extended shaft above the hexagonal head and insert one into an upper hole in the shock absorber mounting and tighten finger tight. Fit the second dummy bolt in the same way, then tighten both with the ‘B’ end of the spanner.Turn it over and use the two hex-headed bolts to attach the bracket to the other side.
Insert the rear stub axle into the swingarm until the hex head sits flush in the socket.
This stage is now complete.
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 7
Stage 7 Contents: Clutch Operating Arm, Clutch Cover, Clutch Cable Stop, Fixing Screws, Engine/Transmission Case, Clutch Operating Arm Return Spring and Flanged screw.
Take the clutch operating arm and the swingarm assembly from Stage 6. The clutch operating arm fits over the post on the swingarm and is retained by the flanged screw. It is advisable to test fit the screw first so it will cut its own thread, making it easier to assemble the operating arm.
Fit the clutch operating arm onto the post ensuring it is the correct way up. Then fit the return spring into the recess, the lower end of the spring goes into the small hole in the swingarm and the upper end sits in the notch of the operating arm. Secure in position with the flanged screw being careful not to overtighten. It should prevent the spring from popping out of the slot but allow the operating arm to swivel and spring back when released.
Take the engine/transmission case and align with the three holes on the swingarm. Once the case is fixed in position it will lock the hexagonal head of the stub axle into the swingarm.
Use three of the screws provided in this stage, hold the parts in alignment and drive the screws into the holes,only tighten fully when all three screws are in place.
Take the clutch cover and align with the 3 projecting pins on the transmission case and push together. The cover is a tight push fit.
Fit the hole on the clutch cable stop over the bracket on the side of the swingarm. Drive the last remaing screw through the cable stop and bracket into the projecting arm of the engine/transmission case.
This stage is now complete.
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 8
Stage 8 Contents: Gear Selector, Kickstart Lever, Kickstart Pedal Rubber, Kickstart Casing, Starter Selector Cam, Gear Selector Support, Kickstart Return Spring, Gear Selector Return Spring, Countersunk Fixing Screws and Silver Flanged Screws.
Fit the pedal rubber to the kickstart lever, fitting the oval hole over the matching end of the casing noting that the ribbed end goes on first, then press the rubber on tightly.
Take the kickstart return spring, noting which way round it goes, then fit the spring into the recess in the centre of the kickstart casing. Note: the shorter projecting end, which bends downwards, needs to slot into slot ‘A’,leaving the longer projecting end in position ‘B’, as shown in steps 6 and 7 of the instructions.
Now take the starter selector cam placing it on top of the return spring,hooking the longer end of spring into the notch on the cam. Carefully holding the cam and spring in place, fit the shaft on the end of the kickstart lever into the hole in the kickstart casing. Note that the flat end of the shaft needs to be oriented so that it lines up with the 'D' shaped hole in the cam. Use a flanged screw to retain the cam on the shaft, making sure the cam and spring to not pop out of place as you tighten the screw.
Holding the kickstart casing to stop it from rotating, check the operation of the kickstarter by pressing it downwards. You should hear a click as it operates, (which will operate the engine start-up effect). When you release the lever, the spring should return it to its original position.
Align the gear selector support with the 3 holes on the casing, and screw together with the three countersunk fixing screws. Once all the screws are inserted, tighten down fully. It is important that the gear selector support is solidly secured to the kickstart casing.
Identify the small hole next to the post on top of the gear selector support. Now take the gear selector and it's return spring, insert the spring into the selector, noting its orientation. Fit the gear selector and return spring over the post on the gear selector support, making sure the end of the spring goes into the hole in the casing identified previously. As it is locked into place, you will need to tension the spring in order to hook it over the outer notch in the gear selector. Secure in place with another flanged screw, but do not overtighten, as the selector needs to move freely.
Gently move the gear selector from side to side. The spring-loaded pawl fitted to the gear selector support should lock into each of the five notches in the end of the selector, and the return spring should take the selector back to the start position when the pawl is raised.
This stage is now complete.
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 9
Stage 9 Contents: Starter Switch Cover, Engine/Transmission Case, Fixing Screws, Starter Switch and Wiring.
There is a rectangular moulding inside the kickstarter casing for the starter switch.
Fit it in place, leaving the starter switch operating button facing the starter selector cam, this is how the kickstart will turn on the start-up effect. Run the wiring straight out of the casing, then take the starter switch cover and fit with the recesses facing you and the flat side facing the switch wires. Make sure the wires come out of the gap in the cover then secure the cover in place using two of the screws provided.
Now take the engine/transmission case and thread the starter wires through the main hole. Align the holes in the casing with those on the kickstarter assembly and fix loosely in place with the three remaining screws provided. Once all screws are inserted, tighten down fully.
This stage is now complete.
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 10
Stage 10 Contents: Fan motor.
The fan motor fits in the recess in the engine/transmission casing.You need to position the motor so the wires will exit from the stepped recess.
Insert the motor fully into the recess so that the drive shaft protrudes through the casing and ensure the wiring isn't being crushed when assembling. The motor should sit just below the level of the surrounding casing.
This stage is now complete.
Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag.arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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There looks to be a lot to this build  it's looking better with every update. Al
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Guest (3)
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