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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,039 Points: 3,140 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Hi John,
Thank you for the comment about the stern/gallery relationship.
I think it must be an optical illusion as the rear plates have been sanded back flush with the keel section.
The reason (I think) that mine looks different is that the gallery supports are on an arc and it makes it appear that the rear plate is curved instead of flat.
Having said that, the last plank adjacent to the stern is a lot straighter than mine in the pic you have attached.
Just been looking at mine again and I can't see anything amiss.
As you say, it probably won't make much difference but should anyone think differently, then perhaps they could let me know. I have fitted the first three rows of planking and don't want to have the task of taking off any more than I need to.
Thanks again, John, for pointing this out.
Chris
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 Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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From your photo, it look like you had to taper the 1st plank almost to nothing in the middle but as you say, that could be an illusion.
I am way past this point now and I can't see anything that would send it awry. Perhaps some of the experts here could chip in with their thoughts.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,039 Points: 3,140 Location: Buckinghamshire
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On the contrary John, you are correct that I have taken too much out of the stern plank. I have attached a couple of photos that I just took to confirm flatness of the stern plates but the plank is all wrong. I will be taking that out again tonight and getting it a little closer to the recommended shape. Looking at the first picture again it looks as if the planking is not square to the stern? I'll have another check. goddo attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,039 Points: 3,140 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Not absolutely as per official build, but as good as I can get I think. Any comments appreciated. goddo attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Looks pretty good to me. I can't see anything wrong with that.
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All looking good Goddo, she's coming along very nicely....  .. Well done... Regards Alan
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Rank: Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,227 Points: 6,801 Location: UK
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Hi,I found that you need to have a smooth transition across the bulkheads free flowing and with out any bumps or depressions, as this will make it more difficult to correct at a later date. So look at this very carefully from all directions, as it is very important, pin a temporary batten along the bulkheads to check the alignment, if you can see bumps file then off,if you can see a depression use a wood filler.So again take your time. Ps:Make sure the batten has no knots or weak areas. Pin the batten at every bulkhead (it may be necessary to pre drill batten) Use a long batten so it is held in constant contact. Regards Trev Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,039 Points: 3,140 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Thanks for the kind words gents, and especially the advice from Trev.
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Looking good and coming on very nicely.  Mark
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,039 Points: 3,140 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Over the last two days, I have fitted the first four rows of planks. The results are below. I then took some random measurements from the top of the last row of planks to the top of the bulkhead legs and compared like with like on each side. All looking nice and even at the moment. A little bit of clinkering here and there but hopefully, the sanding process should eliminate most of it.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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How do they look when you run your eye down the length? If there are any bumps or dips, now is the time to fix them.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,039 Points: 3,140 Location: Buckinghamshire
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I've been looking at adding row 5 today and on reading the mag it says that tapering of rows 5 and 6 is not necessary. When I try to lay the bow plank, it is obvious that I am going to need to taper. I have attached some of pics up to layer 4 at the bow and although it appears there is a bit of clinkering there, I think I can sand that out. Any comments would be appreciated. If I need to take of all the bow planks and start again, I will.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,227 Points: 6,801 Location: UK
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Hi Goddo, looking at your pictures it looks that it you taper to fit you will end up with splinters after sanding and this will result in over crowding, in a normal hull more then likely a drop plank would be needed rather than sanding which will result in the clinker effect. Trev. Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
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Hi Goddo as Trev says you definitely need at least one drop plank so the planks start to sweep up the bow so they keep in contact with the bulkheads. Hope this helps Martyn Building ?
Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa
Next Build ?
When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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Hi Goddo, one of the good things about this build is you plank the upper part of the hull first, this gives a good amount of practice in planking before you start to tackle the lower hull. The fitting of dropper planks is only necessary when you come to plank the lower hull and the instructions give clear guidance on how this is to be achieved.
Looking at your pics, can you confirm you are chamfering the lower edge of the planks going round the bow, if you haven't chamfered then that could account for the clinkering. If you need to taper the bow planks slightly for rows 5 and 6 then that shouldn't cause you any problems as long as you don't have to taper too much, just make sure you chamfer the adjoining edges too.
Also, you pics are not showing as they are 'jpeg', they need to be 'jpg'. Size of your pics is fine......
Regards
Alan
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,039 Points: 3,140 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Thanks to everyone regarding my dilemma with the bow planking.
As it happens, I was not happy with the way it was going so I removed all the bow planks and have started again.
I am also making sure that the edges are chamfered. Once I get the first four rows done I will post another pic with my progress. Thank you Alan for your tip regarding how the photos should be named. I'll do my best to get them correct.
Chris
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,039 Points: 3,140 Location: Buckinghamshire
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When I lay the very first plank at the bow, I get it to follow the bottom of the gun deck, which is curved upwards, and then let the plank take it's own line around the front of the bow. I was wondering if there is an approximate dimension that I should attain from the top of that first plank up to the top of the false keel? At the moment I have a dimension of 43mm (4.3cm). I realise that this figure is going to vary slightly with every build but a guide dimension would be very helpful to me. Thanks.
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goddo wrote:When I lay the very first plank at the bow, I get it to follow the bottom of the gun deck, which is curved upwards, and then let the plank take it's own line around the front of the bow. I was wondering if there is an approximate dimension that I should attain from the top of that first plank up to the top of the false keel? At the moment I have a dimension of 43mm (4.3cm). I realise that this figure is going to vary slightly with every build but a guide dimension would be very helpful to me. Thanks. Hi Goddo, unfortunately I can't give you the dimensions you are looking for and to be honest it is not something you really need. You are correct, the first row follows the bottom of the gun deck and when it comes to the bow, simply allow the plank to lay where it wants to go. Don't apply any lateral movement to the plank to force it into an unnatural position and ensure the plank sits fully on the frames. I would suggest you pin the first row into place on both sides of the hull then post up pics so we can take a look... Hope this helps.. Regards Alan
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,039 Points: 3,140 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Thanks for the advice Alan. I have placed the first plank again letting the curve take it's natural line along the underside of the lower gun deck and around to the keel. Planks are just pinned at the moment. Your comments would be appreciated. goddo attached the following image(s):
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Hi Goddo, from what I can see I'd say everything is looking good. Would ask you to post up one pic looking along the hull so I can see the flow of the planks. Think you can now go ahead a glue that first row in place ensuring as the glue dries that the planks sit flat against the whole width of each rib. Once the glue dries then you can set about applying the next row of planks in the same way. If you need to chamfer to ensure the planks sit flat against each other then chamfer the lower edge of the new plank only. Look forward to seeing how get on... Regards Alan
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