Hi Tony,

This will be a must see for me Tony, as this was one of my very first plastic builds to many years ago (no wood builds then).

Good luck

Regards

Trev

Hi look forward to following your progress on this,cheers mick.

THE MAYFLOWER 1620

There are no known plans or accurate details known of the original Mayflower so any of the kits you have available are based on the few written comments from the likes of diaries the Pilgrims wrote and the fact the original ship was of the Galleon style.

I have been contemplating from the 2 kits I have which one to build.
For me both have their own plus and negative points – what I like on one I am not so keen on the other and vice versus.

For instance, I like the colouring of the Amati kit but do not like the fact you have to make your own sails.

The Constructo timber is something I am not drawn to but (certainly in this kit) I have a set of ready-made sails.

In theory I could mash the two kits together to get the best of both but unfortunately, they are both of different scales.

I have done a couple of kit box reviews and while I will not be using the Amati kit at this time, I thought I would post the review in case anyone ne else has an interest and would like an idea of just what is in the box.

So, after much soul searching, instruction reading, looking at plans I have decided that my build of the Mayflower will use the Constructo kit.

CONSTRUCTO - MAYFLOWER

KIT NUMBER: 80819
SCALE: 1:65
LENGTH: 70 cm
HEIGHT: 60 cm
WIDTH: 27 cm
STYLE: Single Planked Hull. However, refer to Picture 15 which explains how a second planking layer has now been included but not factored into the instructions.

PICTURES 1 & 2

This is one of the earlier versions of this Constructo kit that I purchased “second hand” at a good price some time ago.

New newer versions of this kit are available but apart from the fact they have ready made sails not to sure what other changes have been made.

What is interesting with this kit I have is that it seems to include a few parts from both the old and the new versions. Namely it has the original “Make your own” sails as well as the newer ready-made sail set.

PICTURES 3, 4 & 5

This is quite a packed box of parts.

Constructo put many of their parts into numbered bags which are then referenced in the instructions. It’s a nice method as it allows you to find parts very quickly.

PICTURES 6 through 10

Underneath the parts tray we find the laser cut parts.

In this kit we also receive a display stand that when varnished should look very nice.

In pic 10 there is that duplication of old and new kit I referred to. Here we have 2 die cut (not laser cut in this case) sheets that make up the fighting tops (crows next). On one of the sheets we have small triangles that form part of the hull decoration.

On the second sheet this is missing.

Referring to the TWO instruction books included (again old and new kit) it seems in the newer version of the kit this hull detail is cut from a timber length.

PICTURE 11

If there is one thing that stands out in this kit it’s the amount of timber.

I did check the instructions to see if I might have additional timber from a second kit but what I have is exactly the amount detailed in the instructions.

What is nice is that the instructions detail each wood piece by size as well as name.

The main wood used for the hull planking is referred to as “Bokapi” not a timber name I am familiar with and not one that seems to readily available should you require additional pieces.

The hull planking is also a thick 2mm timber to work with and having examined the wood its not in the slightest bit flexible so my plan is to replace the timbers in this kit.

PICTURES 12, 13 & 14

IN this kit we receive a colour picture guide as well as a text-based set of instructions (brief at a page and a half long) and a full breakdown of all of the parts being used.

I do like the layout of these Constructo instructions with each numbered part in the instructions showing you if that part is in one of the bagged parts, if it’s a standard timber length or if it’s a piece that needs to be cut from one of the supplied timbers.

PICTURE 15

This small slip of paper is included in the kit stating that after customer feedback Constructo have included a further pack of 0.5mm timer to act as a second planking layer. However, that layer is not factored into the build instructions and being a single colour, you are advised to plan carefully if you decide to use this part.

PICTURES 16 through 21

2 full size plan sheets are included with this kit (in my case duplicated with the same plans from an earlier version of the kit but exactly the same in what they show).

Everything looks easy enough to follow and there is no text to speak of on these plans that would need translation as there is with the Amati kit.

PICTURES 22 & 23

Couple of extras I have picked up. One being a very nice name plate that can be painted up.

Also managed to get my hands on a print of the Mayflower for framing but more importantly it gives some indication of a possible paint decoration scheme that I would like to try and incorporate into my build.

PICTURES 24, 25 & 26

I mentioned earlier that the kit supplied timber I am not overly happy with as it looks like it could be difficult to work with. Cornwall Model Boats do have a section for Bokapi but much of that is out of stock.

So, on that basis I am going to change the timber used on my build to bring it more in line with the timber supplied in the Amati kit.

I plan to use Lime as the first planking layer as this is nice and flexible and something, I am more familiar with. This will be topped off as a second planking layer using walnut.

Again, much of the timber I wanted I have struggled to get. A good part of what I did order came from Cornwall Model boats (always good on prices but more importantly very very good on their postage charges for timber lengths.

The bagged Amati lengths I had to source from another online supplier.
Not sure how much raw timber Artesania Latina supplied when they were in business but my assumption is the limited timber presently available may be down to this company folding last year.

So, there we have it. This Constructo kit will be the one I use to build my version of the Mayflower.

Think this is going to be a pleasure to follow, good luck with the build Tony...

Regards

Alan

Tony,

This will be a lovely build, it has all the parts we dream about, looking forward to the next post.

Regards

Trev

Hi nice start hope all goes well for you as you build this. Cheers mick.

Good to see you up and running with this Tony, look forward to seeing it progress.... Lovely detailed start....

Regards

Alan

HOLES IN THE FRAME SIDES

PICTURE 11

I mentioned in my last update that a number of holes have been found in the frame sides.

Having spent some proper time looking at all of the frames in details I found around 7 areas that require filling.

Various fillers would be ideal but as I had this Ronseal product available that is what I have used.

PICTURES 12, 13 & 14

Here we can see one of the imperfections.

Fairly straightforward to resolve with the wood filler.

Just fill slightly proud to allow any minor shrink back as the filler dries (I did notice that with this particular filler is does not shrink as some other brands do.

PICTURES 15 & 16

Once the filler is dry its just a case of carefully sanding back to neaten up the repair.

BEARDING LINE

PICTURE 27

One of the things we need to consider is the so-called Bearding Line.
Basically, we need to ensure that when the planking is completed its blends in with the width of the stern post.

The keel has a thickness of 4mm and we will be applying 4mm thickness of planking (2mm port and 2mm starboard) so will end up at the stern with a thickness of 8mm.

The stern post is 5mm thick so what would happen, unless we correct now, the stern planking will sit proud of the stern post.

We need to reduce the thickness of the stern end of the false keel to cater for this.

The kit is sadly lacking in any detailed build instructions and it’s a case of having to refer to the 2 sheet plans, the pictorial guide and the page and half of written instructions and having scanned all of that the only reference to any sort of Bearding Line is this arrowed diagram in Pic 27.

It appears to indicate we need to reduce the keel at the stern to a thickness of 1mm.

PICTURES 28 & 29

As mentioned, there is NOTHING in the instructions to mark out this area so the best way, I have found of doing this is to fit all of the frames in place.

As we get to the stern area there will be a space between the rear frames and the base of the keel and it’s from this point, we need to make the Bearding Line.

I have marked out the shape using a flexible curve and using this curve it allowed me to transfer the exact same shape to the opposite side of the keel.

PICTURES 30, 31 & 32

Now there are many methods we could use to reduce this section down. But as we need to do this slowly and precisely (or as precisely as skills allow) I would personally not use a power tool (i.e. Dremel or the like) to achieve this.

For me one of the best little tools I picked up was this little angled sanding block. Being wedge shaped it allows you to create a similar wedge on the keel as you carefully reduce the size of this area.

Pics 31 and 32 is were I have left this. The rear of the stern is now down to 1mm in section but once I start looking at the planking and how it sits, I may need to big this sanding task more inboard of where I stopped.