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Mayflower 400 - 1620 to 2020 Options
birdaj2
#41 Posted : 19 April 2020 21:22:18

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TIME TO START THE PLANKING


The instructions would have you doing a single planking using 2mm x 5mm Bokapy.

There are a couple of reasons I have decided to follow a different route:

1. The wood is very brittle and of poor quality.
2. There seems to be no spare so if you ruin any of the planking there is no spare to work with.
3. Bokapy does not seem to be one of the readily available woods you can buy from the hobby shop.
4. And finally, I do not like the colour.

Its worth noting that the kit does come with an addendum sheet stating that customers had asked the manufacturer to provide a double planked option and this is what they have done albeit with a note saying “we have supplied addition 0.5mm x 5mm planking which you can use as required”.

However, the kit instructions have not been updated to show the would-be builder how to make use of this.

So, for me I am doing a double planked hull using 2.00mm x 5mm Lime and the second planking will be 0.5mm x 5mm Walnut.

PICTURES 31, 32, 33 & 34

My planking preferences are not the quickest by any means but it’s a method of working I have got used too.

I start by soaking 4 planks at a time in war water using of all things a 2 litre plastic drinks bottle.

This makes the lime pliable to make bending easy with having to resort to planking pliers, or heat tools of any sort.

The planks are pinned to the hull using 2 planks per side at a time and left to thoroughly dry.

When dry they are removed (pic 34) and at this point they have held the shape that was put into them.

PICTURES 35, 36 & 37

The planks are then glued and pinned into place for which I use Titebond Original Wood Glue.

As well as pins I also use Amati planking clamps just to ensure the edge to edge gluing of the planks is all kept nice and even.

With the shape of this hull I have managed a run of 4 planks before finding I will need to add “stealers” (i.e. triangular fillets) to keep the planking running true without trying to clinker.

From these pictures (36 & 37) the first 4 planks have been glued with the bottom 2 being loose pinned until they dry.

At the moment this looks like a “PINHEAD” lookalike but as things move on most of these pins will be removed and just a few used in select places prior to the second planking being applied.

And for now, that is as far as I have progressed.

Its certainly not a “fall together kit” with many an issue already discovered and I am sure there will be more to find and more than likely some to catch me out if I am not careful.

Until next time Stay Safe and Happy Modelling.

birdaj2 attached the following image(s):
31.JPG
32.JPG
33.JPG
34.JPG
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36.JPG
37.JPG
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
delboy271155
#42 Posted : 19 April 2020 22:23:39
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Good start to the planking and think you have made the right choice with the wood you are using. That is a tight curve on the bow and a brittle wood could have you pulling your hair out with potential breakages. The balsa infills also help on the bow.

Hope things continue the way they have started for you.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






tf64
#43 Posted : 20 April 2020 09:19:03

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Hi Tony,

Looking forward to seeing your build developing and two very good tips for our fellow ship builders, First one would be to soak the wood in 2-litre bottles then pin to the hull and let Dry for a perfect fit. Next was a perfect example of how a fitted Stealer should look when finished (photo 36 ) well done and a very helpful update.

Regards

Trev.
Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).


























birdaj2
#44 Posted : 20 April 2020 10:39:53

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Trev/Derek

Many thanks for looking in.

My plank soaking Trev is the method i use now as be a big clumsy bloke i ended up burning myself on a coupke of occasions using one of those soldering iron type plank benders Crying and that did hurt.

Going to get the next set of planks glued on tonight So hoping if i can get a bit dome each evening that planking should be finished fairly quickly over the next couple of weeks.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
mogwai
#45 Posted : 20 April 2020 18:00:42

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Hi looking good, good choice to go for more bendable wood for first layer of planking,look forward to your next update, cheers mick. BigGrin
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Gandale
#46 Posted : 20 April 2020 23:07:14

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Like what I see Tony, carry on the way you're doing and she'll turn out to be a beautiful creation..… Very well done....Drool Drool Drool ..

Regards

Alan
birdaj2
#47 Posted : 26 May 2020 19:14:19

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Mick/Alan

Many thanks for looking in - very much appreciated.

Mick I decided on a change of wood because the stuff provided in the kit is really hard and I could see me making a right mess of it and its not a wood easily replaced.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
birdaj2
#48 Posted : 26 May 2020 19:17:55

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THE MAYFLOWER – 26th MAY 2020

Slowly moving forward on my build. Time spent over the last few weeks has seen the completion of the first layer of planking that runs from deck level to hull bottom.

My process of soaking, pinning, drying, chamfering then gluing each plank is certainly not a quick way of working but working with a soaked plank allows it some flexibility but you then need to allow it to dry else you end up with gaps as the wood dries out and shrinks back.

PICTURES 1 Through 6

I have not mastered the “Drop Plank” process at the moment but my attempt has allowed me to get planks around quite a tight curve on the bow without any major “clinkering” with planks trying to ride up over each other.

Were I have need to curve a plank I use these little plank crimping pliers (pic 4 & 5) as I find the traditional versions are just a little too big for my hands.

PICTURES 7 Through 11

In picture 7 I have arrowed the first plank that is loose fitted and from were we then work down the hull.

When this loose fitted plank is removed the gun ports will be cut and these start at the Top of the first plank glued in place.

In Pics 8 & 9 you can see that the planking has gone on with next to no gaps between the planks. This is achieved by chamfering the edge of each plank so they butt up against each other as they follow the curve of the bulkheads.

In pictures 10 and 11 the bow is beginning to look like “Pinhead” from the Hellraiser films but just wanted to ensure that the planks around the curve of the bow were held nice and tight as the glue dried.

PICTURES 12 Through 15

Again, just general views of the hull planking as its progressed.
One point of note if how wood varies in colour. I am using Lime as the first planking layer and had to order up a second batch and its noticeable just how much variation in the colour there is.

No major issue as it’s the first planking layer but its always worth watching out for when you put the finishing layers of planking in place.

PICTURES 16, 17 & 18

What was surprising was I ended up with just 2 triangular fillets each side of the hull to infill.

I ended up with an “elongated Oval” down at the last 2 plank level and to infill these I used a straight plank length with each end cut at a point (45 degrees).

In picture 17 you can see how I have overlaid this new plank over the previously installed ready to be marked up and fitted in position.

Camera batteries just died on me so a picture of the completed (to this stage) planking in my next post.

The next part of the build starts to get interesting as we do the following:

1. Install the next plank running up the hull into which we have to cut the waterway holes.

2. We drill out the 3 mast and the bowsprit holes.

3. Then the decks are planked.

4. We then continue up the hull with the rest of the first planking layer.

So that’s it for this time.

Stay safe everyone and Happy Modelling.
birdaj2 attached the following image(s):
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Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
Markwarren
#49 Posted : 26 May 2020 19:44:02

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Coming on very nicely Tony.Love Drool

Mark
tf64
#50 Posted : 26 May 2020 22:21:34

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Hi Tony,

A very good update I build the same way regarding the planking, yes it will take a lot longer to build but with a better end result, I can see you will have to sand down and with the Walnut planking added this will set it off a treat.

Regards

Trev
Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).


























Garth
#51 Posted : 02 June 2020 18:28:10

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Hi Tony,
Great job with the planking. It looks awesome.
Kind regards,
Garth
"Measure twice, cut once!!!"
Finished!!! HMS Victory,
Current build: Black Pearl.
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birdaj2
#52 Posted : 21 June 2020 17:03:46

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Mark/Trev/Garth

Many thanks for your support.

Slow and steady at the moment with this one. Its taking quite a lot of pre-thought as the instructions are not the best and I can see chances of committing and getting caught out if not careful.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
birdaj2
#53 Posted : 21 June 2020 17:06:51

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THE MAYFLOWER – 21st JUNE 2020

Some slow but steady progress but enough done I think to offer up this small update.

I am at the point now that the first planking layer has been sanded down, and to be honest I am quite happy with how that has turned out. Very little in the way of filler required and I am so hoping I can achieve a similar finish with the second planking layer.

The next stage was to start cutting out the lower gun ports, at this level of the planking 4 per side.

PICTURES 1 and 2

This is were we have to work from the plans in order to get the measurements that we need to cut.

There are no real directions on what to do so (picture 1) I measured in from each frame (yellow arrows) to the edge of the gun port in the plan (black arrows).

Those frames are still visible as we starting planking several millimetres below the line of the deck.

PICTURE 3

This is how it looks with the gun ports marked out on the hull. We can still see the frames (arrowed) that allowed me a point to transfer my markings from.

What is really useful here is that by planking below the deck level this first plank is at the height of the top of each gun port so we only have 3 sides to cut through.

PICTURE 4

Carefully, very carefully I cut out each of the ports 4 each side at this stage

I have saved the cut-out parts as at this stage I am not 100% sure I like the cast metal gun ports that are supplied and beginning to think these might be better made from timber to match the rest of the hull.

PICTURES 6 & 7

Here we can see a dry fit of the supplied metal gun port frame and in pic 7 the gun port along with the gun port lid.

PICTURE 8

The next plank in place forms the top of the gun port cut out so a nice touch I thought.

PICTURES 9 & 10

And this is were things slow down again.

This plank will have cut-outs along the main deck sides to for the waterways.

Here it has been soaked and pinned into place in order to dry to the required shape.

Before this is finally glued in place however the following stages will be completed.

1. Drill mast holes to the correct depth and angle. At this stage the only hole is through the false deck and not into the mast support blocks that were glued in earlier.

2. Plank the decks. By doing so it will be easier (for me) to get a nice edge finish to the decks before that plan that will have the water runoffs, glued into place.

3. Plank the bulk heads. Again, this will be easier without the side planking in place as I will be able to plank outside of the deck edge and then sand back, hopefully giving me a neater finish.

So, my next task is to start looking at the decking and the wood I will use for this.

Until then stay safe and happy modelling to you all.
birdaj2 attached the following image(s):
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Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
Gandale
#54 Posted : 21 June 2020 22:42:48

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You're doing a cracking job with her Tony, beautiful finish to your first layer of planking and am sure the second layer will go on a treat. Very well done....Drool Drool .. Loving how she's looking....Love Love Love

Regards

Alan
Sticky Wickett
#55 Posted : 26 June 2020 12:17:40

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Excellent job on the planking Tony. Very nice work!

Regards,
Phil W.
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Future projects: 1/148 scale railway diorama / 1/50 scale R/C Volvo F89 logging truck / 1/148 scale Thunderbirds Fireflash
goddo
#56 Posted : 26 June 2020 13:45:17

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Nice job, Tony.
The planking looks good and the second layer will hide any minor discrepancies.
Chris
birdaj2
#57 Posted : 28 June 2020 21:16:55

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Alan, Phil Chris

Many thanks for the kind comments.

Took a while to get to this stage and my building methods are by no way the fastest but getting there slowly buy surely.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
birdaj2
#58 Posted : 28 June 2020 21:19:38

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THE MAYFLOWER – SUNDAY 28th JUNE 2020

Well started this weekend with a slight disappointment ☹

I think I mentioned that because the kit is an “old” second hand one much of the thinner wood (0.5mm) is extremely brittle and in the case of the decking its compounded by the fact that the wood is described as “Mukaly” so not one of the common woods you can source as easily.

While I did contemplate using it the quantity supplied may just be sufficient to do the decks but with absolutely no space for error.

So, on that basis I decided to go with a favourite and ordered 30 lengths of Tanganyka which arrived on Friday.

The disappointment being its even worse that what I have in the kit. When you round a plank and touch ends (always a good test to see if the wood length is even width) one end is around 4mm (should be 5mm) and the other around 6mm.

So, on that basis you would not easily cut this down to length and run a nice parallel set of deck planks.

Onto Plan Number 2.

I have used Maple in the past and this can sometimes be just fine but other times it has a “Weird” silvery grain that stands out at certain angles/lighting. No enough in my wood stocks and not wanting to spend even more money I looked through my wood stocks to see what else I had available.

0.5mm x 6mm Lime I had in quantity so that is what I decided to use.

PICTURE 1

I should really try and find some time (if only) to “Play Decks” and work out some colour methods that I am happy with.

I saw a video recently were the builder had achieved just the sort of deck colour I hanker after but apart from mentioning he had used to AK Interactive products (a Filter and a Panel Line Wash) there was no instruction as to how to use these 2 items.

In Picture 1 you can see I have had a “little play” with some lime and Tanganyka which just resulted in me going back to my tried and tested Light Oak wood stain which I will use for the basis of this ships decking.
birdaj2 attached the following image(s):
1..JPG
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
birdaj2
#59 Posted : 28 June 2020 21:24:22

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MAKING THE DECK PLANKS:

PICTURE 2

So, armed with my Lime Strips and my tried and tested NSW (Northwest Short Line Chopper) I started cutting the wood strip lengths to 600mm (which is the size I measured from the plans as that detail is not noted in the instructions).

PICTURE 3

Each length cuts down to around 16 x 600mm lengths with a tiny bit left over.

These lengths are then bundled (15 at a time as that is the span of my peg clamps) ensuring the long and short ends are all inline.

PICTURE 4

My own preference for getting the effect of Plank Caulking is to use black paper. By no means the quickest option or indeed the easiest.

We start by cutting some strips of black paper and as you can see here I pre-fold one edge that will glue to one of the shorter sides of the planking bundle.

Nothing special about this paper other than it took an age to find one that was not too thick and more importantly that stayed in place once glued.

PICTURE 5

Using nothing more than a very cheap PVA “kiddies” glue from Wilco one long edge and one short edge of the plank bundle is glued up and the paper pressed into place.

What we are aiming for is to keep the planks tight in the peg clamps as we do not want glue travelling down between the planks otherwise you will never get them apart again.

I then coat the outer part of the paper as this seems to allow it to dry more evenly without curling and pulling away from the planking (an important stage as you will see when we come to separate the planks)

PICTURE 6

And once this is all dry this is the little package of planks we are left with.

PICTURE 7

Having tided up the overhanging paper edges this is what we are left with.

We now need to consider how to separate this bundle into individual planks while retaining a black edge along one short and one long side.

PICTURES 8, 9 & 10

To get between these plank blanks we need a very, very thin blade. And one of the best that fits that requirement is the tried and tested razor blade.

Surprisingly not an easy item to source these days with the advent of electric razors or cartridge style blades.

I managed to track these down and being single edges blades are “safer” to use that the traditional double-sided blade in my view (only one chance of gutting your fingers rather than two 😊)

PICTURE 11

The method of parting the planks is to pick up the space between 2 of them and to then very carefully “saw” along the length of the plank.

PICTURE 12

And this is the first of the planks parted from the bundle.
We keep going until all are separated, making sure NOT to lose concentration or we could end up with “Battle Damage” to the fingers.

PICTURE 13

And this is the sort of result we can hope for once the decking is in place.

With luck we will end up with a neat black line along one long, and one short edge.
birdaj2 attached the following image(s):
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Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
birdaj2
#60 Posted : 28 June 2020 21:28:48

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Location: Wiltshire
DRILLING OUT THE MAST HOLES

Before we can start adding the decking, we need to drill through the mast hole markers in the false decks to the correct level so that the holes are in place for when we eventually get to the masting stage.

At this stage I have not drilled out the bowsprit hole as that needs to go in at a steepish angle based on the still to be fitted bow section – and that section does not fit – but more on that later.

PICTURE 14

This shows that you have to be so careful in cross referencing the picture book, printed instructions and plans.

This is a picture of the bowsprit and I think its fairly clearly that is identified as part 147.

PICTURES 15 & 16

When we cross reference Part 147 to the parts list is wrongly described as “BLOCKS” rather than “Bowsprit”.

Scanning along the line shows that this “block” has a diameter of 6x215mm so I think we can safely assume this is not a block but the bowsprit.

PICTURE 17

The printed instructions are “wonderful” as are the plans.

While they do give a depth of 2.5cm to drill the mast holes to, they also say to angle the mast but absolutely no noted angle in the plans or instructions.

PICTURES 18 & 19

Paying careful attention to the instructions we discover that the Main and Foremast are 8mm diameter but the Mizzen Mast is just 6mm diameter.

Having taped the drill bit 2 the 2.5cm depth its time to chuck the drill (not literally – although there have been moment) and using the drill we proceed to drill out those holes.

PICTURE 20

Looking like the woodworm has had a good feed we just need to clean of the wood dust from the previous drill exercise.

birdaj2 attached the following image(s):
14..JPG
15..JPG
16..JPG
17..JPG
18..JPG
19..JPG
20..JPG
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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