I should have the next stages up sometime over the weekend, but have come across a bit of a problem.

Having installed the air filter as instructed last time, I'm finding it difficult to install the HT leads between the distributor and the spark plugs. This is due to the air filter covering the distributor and making it hard to reach in there and install the leads. I'll give it a good go tomorrow and try and finish the delivery, getting the posts up sometime Sunday.

I can't sleep due to a bad back, so here we go with delivery three.

[Scorpius wants my knowledge of unlicensed portable nuclear reactors, but he's not getting it!]


I have already received the set of paper props from Modelmodz, and really like them. They are a nice set of details including a map of Manhattan, a blueprint of the backpacks [don't let scorpy see that!, a couple of newspapers, the "Time" magazine, and 'that' painting.


Pack 11 is some of the pulleys for the front of the engine. No problems with this pack, just keep an eye on which way round each part goes so you get the correct spacing on each pulley.


First are these two parts, which look to be a coolant or oil tank and pump of some sort. Ensure you have them this way round, making sure that the thicker square on the metal bracket is on the same face that the plastic tank will be on and at the bottom. This will be important later.


This is then screwed in from this side. The screws will later be hidden by the pulley.


The circular part in this picture is the end of the tank, housing two connection points. Although you cannot see it in this shot, there is a rod that will go through the middle of the tank for the pulley to attach to. Due to the keys in the tank component, this circular part will only fit flush in the correct orientation.




These are the two components that make up the pulley for this part. The domed one goes on the outside, with the flatter one nearest the tank.


As you can see, I put the flat one on so that the number is on the side nearest the tank to minimise the chance that the number will be seen, but I don't suppose it actually matters which way round it goes.


This is then screwed to the front of the tank and into the post which is part of the back component, sandwiching the tank in the middle.


With all that done, it's time to put the filler cap into place


and fix the assembly to the front of the engine. Remember when I said the orientation of the thicker section of the mounting plate would be important later? Well, it's now 'later'. The top section of the mounting plate is thin as it goes over the previously unattached mount for the oil filter. The thicker section of the tank mounting plate goes on the lower screw hole, and the extra thickness makes up for the lack of another plate at this screw, keeping it all in the correct orientation.


This bracket is then fixed between the rear of the oil tank and the engine block. However, like the air filter, this will come back to haunt us later [Much like Scorpius!].


The components for the crankshaft pulley. This will be a double pulley, so care must be taken with both the component order and orientation. Once again, I ensured the component numbers were on the backs of the pulleys where possible.


With the component that ends up closest to the engine already on the post, I assembled the stack of other pulley components.


Ensuring that the recessed component was orientated so that the recess faced towards the front of the engine and the outside of the stack, this was then screwed to the post and completed this stage.

Pack 13


This stage is a short one, and quite a relief after the leads of the last stage. It deals with a few small additions to the front chassis frame.


The small plate is screwed into the top side of the chassis frame. It is this plate that will eventually hold the engine supports.


The distributor is then screwed to the frame, completing this pack.

Hi looking good,coming along well ,cheers mick.

Roy,

I take exception to this comment. I know you also make mods for some of these publications, and frankly I expected better of you. You made this comment without knowing what work had gone into the production of these parts - although you would have better knowledge of this sort of thing than most of us.

Please refrain from such comments again in this thread.

As to the replacement parts in question - and as someone with Asperger's syndrome - I feel the added accuracy these supply make them worth the cost. Your mileage may vary, but please take a look at a comparison between the screwed in Eaglemoss parts and the Mike Lane replacements.



Not only are the Mike Lane parts self adhesive, they have 'hollow' vent areas, unlike the Eaglemoss solid units, so they require a certain delicacy of touch to install without damage. It is also worth noting that you must be completely sure you are happy to install them. If you are not happy for any reason, you will not be able to remove them without breaking them and possibly ruining the paint on the hood.



You will also notice that the vents are a slightly different size, and there are actually two detailed plates for each of Eaglemoss's single plates. Mike Lane's product also has scale accurate rivets for these plates.


I realise that it has been some time since your comment, but I took a while to get the mods and be ready to install them. Then yesterday a surprise delivery - "Special Issue 1".

Proton Packs!


(In the background on the TV, Adam Savage from "Mythbusters" is on Youtube working on his first delivery!)

The e-mail I received stated that two packs were on the way, but the magazine stated four packs, and a ghost trap!



As I received only two packs, I presume that the other two packs and the trap are going to be issued in a later special issue. I will see if I can confirm this soon.



Take the main body of the pack and screw the bumper on from the back. The magazine tells you to ensure that the blue label on the bumper is on the right hand side. This is, frankly, redundant due to the peg on the bumper and hole in the body, which ensure the bumper will be installed the correct way up.



These two parts are screwed together to form the arm of the pack.





Which is attached to the body in the same way the exhaust manifolds were attached to the engine.



This spring is then inserted into the 'T' piece. There is one open end on the top of the 'T', and this is where the spring goes. I found it fairly awkward as the spring will bend and reduce the force you are using to insert the spring.



The 'T' piece is then screwed into the body so the spring points left and the other end of the spring goes into the hole.





At this point, the instructions tell you to switch to the wand. The main part of the wand is moulded on to the end of a long spring, and at first look it seems the other end of the spring is damaged. This is NOT the case, so don't change it.





Screw this plate to the wand. This forms the base of the wand. The plate can also only go one way round due to a pin and tube.





This piece (The Clippard Minimatic modular valve, apparently) is just pushed into the particle thrower on the top. I ended up using my thumb nail on the rear end of this part. If it is not pushed in completely, it seems to rock forward very easily, but once pushed fully home it seems firm enough.



The shortest black tube is then attached in a loop to the two pins of the particle thrower wand.

Returning to the main body of the pack, we move to the hardest part of the construction.



The two long red tubes have to be attached to two pins in a trench that runs vertically up the centre of the pack body. The tubes are rather soft so they bend easily and actually seem to require slight stretching to get them over the pins. I found I was out of 15A fuse wire at this point, so ended up using 30A - which was a tight fit. I ended up just putting a short length of wire into each end of the tube, and pushing it in further with the end of the rest of the wire. I was thus able to grip the wire with my tweezers without just crushing the tube and making the job even harder. Even then I needed to work the tube onto the pin on the pack by working it in a circular motion, relieving the pressure on the pin partially over a small area at a time and slowly working it down the pin.



The other ends of these tubes were then worked onto the pins as shown above. Make sure that the tube going to the upper section of the pack is on the pin closest to the square part. The outer pin is for the black tube we fit next.



The long black tube is then fixed in place in the same manner as the red ones, from the pin next to the red tube near the square part at the top of the pack to the raised pin just below where the two red tubes are secured.



We then take the long blue tube and install it between the pin in the underside of the arm. The tube is then wrapped around the outside of the arm and over the top of it, finally being connected to the pin just above the red label.



The short blue tube is then connected to these pins on the pack body.



Followed by the short red one on these pins. As previously, such as the HT leads on the engine, I have shortened the tubes to fit better as necessary.



The loose end of the spring for the wand is now placed over the pack body wall like so. The back plate will then trap the spring and keep the wand in place.





And then the frame is attached to the back plate.

This completes the first proton pack. The others ill just be repeats of this.

Despite my best efforts, I am not wholly satisfied with the tubes on these two packs. I may eventually buy a duplicate issue and then use the best four packs out of six for my final build, but that is something I will think about sometime in the future.

Hi looking good according to my email next 2 proton packs and ghost trap come with delivery no 7 ,look forward to more cheers mick.

Mark, it's Voltarol that keeps my mind off my back. The low table that I have to use at the moment makes things worse, but it's a small price to pay for the enjoyment and feeling of accomplishment I get building things.

Anyway, issue 6 has arrived, so let's get cracking!

pack 15 is mainly a repeat of the left suspension, with some parts mirrored for the right hand side. I will not be repeating the instructions for steps that are just mirrors of those that I have already shown.



Attach the right tie rod to the steering rack and the right wheel hub.



The entire steering rack now connects both wheels and they will move in unison.

Stage 16, finishing the front suspension and steering.



Take the stabiliser bar, and the two linkages.



Ensure that the linkages are screwed in securely to the two sockets in the ends of the stabiliser bar.





This assembly is then screwed into the slots at the front of each suspension unit. The linkages ensure that the bar itself is at the right height to be attached to the front chassis frame.



Take the two mounting brackets, I had them so that the thicker ridge was to the inside of the frame, and install them like so.





This completes the suspension components for the front wheel. The next steps work on the steering.



Take the Idler arm and its bracket, and screw them together.



The hole in mine was slightly larger than it should have been, so I strengthened the join by adding a little superglue to help the screw hold.



This is then screwed to the right side of the frame. The end of the arm is screwed to the steering arm. This assembly is just to hold the steering arm in position and really is just a follower.





Screw the pinion base to the left side of the frame. This uses a single 'LM' screw at the front, and a 'DM' screw at the rear.



Drop the pinion through the hole in the base.



At this point, I added a drop of WD-40 to lubricate it as it seemed like it was binding a little.



Carefully turn the frame over and attach the larger end of the Pitman arm to the pinion, then the smaller end of the pitman arm to the steering arm.



Take the steering column, place it on the pinion base so that the end with the gears is down and the plainer end is upward. Trap the steering column between the pinion base and pinion housing.



It is worth stating here that the pinion housing is secured with two different screw types. 'MM' screws on the left side, 'DM' screws on the right.

With the steering completed, it is now time to secure the engine into the frame. Place the engine into the frame so that the two engine supports fit into the two sockets in the front of the frame and the post at the rear of the gearbox fits into the hole in the frame cross-member. Secure the front of the engine with 'IM' screws and the gearbox with a 'LM' screw.



Connect the power steering pump and the pinion housing with the two hoses.



Then finally, take the wheel assembled in pack 4 and screw it to the left hub, covering the screw with the centre cap.

Pack 18 is another short one, the front of the chassis.



Place the front chassis with the centre bulge up, (It's now upside down) add the end parts to their respective sides so that the rounded end is outermost.



Turn the front chassis over so that the central bulge is now going downwards and attach it to the frame.



Finally, turn the entire assembly over and attach the two parts left to the underside of the front chassis frame. These parts are mirrored and sit on a specific side.

This is how the finished article should look.




As an additional, I took the tyres as supplied and gave the outer tread surfaces a light sanding. This takes the (Rather shiny) original surface which looks like they are absolutely brand new and makes it matt which more accurately represents a used tyre.

Before


After


I'm still not entirely happy with this model as it stands. I have not received the extra issues so I have not been able to change the HT leads or air filter housing yet. I am also going to be weathering the engine - although nowhere near as much as Adam Savage has done on his YouTube videos.

Thant is coming on very nicely.

Mark