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Who ya Gonna Call? Building Ecto-1 Options
Coser
#121 Posted : 11 February 2021 11:51:44

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Issue 17, stage 59.



More work on the interior rear section this month, although it's quite a light month.



For stage 59, we work on these two large boxes, but we don't finish them this stage.



The first box is simple, and made from these four parts.



The two ends are slotted in, with the flush ends of the tabs going down first in this picture. This allows the base to be properly seated and screwed in with four screws.



The second box I had trouble with. One of the ends went in well, but every time I tried to put the other end in, it went most of the way, then was very stiff and pushed one side out. I ended up removing the paint from the tabs, after which which it went in well.



And this is where we leave it for this stage.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#122 Posted : 11 February 2021 21:29:52

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Stage 60



This stage we finish off the previous stage, install it to the plate, and install the plate into the rear.



These two components are simply pushed together. The locations of the pins mean it is easy to ensure this goes in the right way round.



So that they look like this.



The yellow detail is then pushed in in this position. There us a smaller square indent, and a corresponding raised piece on the back of the yellow detail, but mine still sits a little proud despite being fully pushed in.



This box is then screwed into the box lid left off from last stage.



And this is then screwed to the box like this. It seems a shame that there are four screw holes now visible in the top of the large box.



The side panel is then screwed to the side of this box, with the other side then screwed beneath.





Four brackets are then screwed to the boxes.





Then a set of plastic knobs and switches are added. These simply push in. I thought it a shame that the switches have pins that are not symmetrical, so there is no way to have one or more of the switches appearing to be the opposite way unless you cut the pins off. This may mean that you will need to glue the switches in.



This is then screwed to the plate from last issue. Two screws from underneath, and a screw through each of the four brackets from above.

The plate is then screwed to the rear floor, but unfortunately I seem to have missed that picture.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#123 Posted : 11 February 2021 21:36:24

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Stage 61



In this stage, we build one of the rear walls. This is a simple process of adding a speaker to it's mount, adding the mount to the wall, and screwing the wall to the floor.





The speaker installed in the mount.



And the mount installed in the wall.



And finally the wall installed on the floor.

Stage 62 is just the mirror of stage 61 for the opposite wall.



And that's it for this month.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
delboy271155
#124 Posted : 11 February 2021 22:24:27
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Hi Coser, BigGrin

Good to see you`ve stuck with this after your subscription frustrations. WTG

There`s some very nice detail in this and I think that by the time it comes to final assemblies going together, its going to be a heavy handful.

Keep up the good work, I`m following to the end.Cool Cool Cool


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






Coser
#125 Posted : 05 March 2021 12:09:45

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Thanks Derek. I just hope that there is some improvement by the time this year's subscription gets towards the end. However, there are times like these where the hassle in the past is totally worth it.



Issue 18. In the stages of this issue, we are going to finish off the interior, add the small circuit board and speaker, and test the electronics. Next issue will be a whopper of a delivery as it's the frame for the bodywork. She's going to get big really quickly at that point.

Now I will have to split this issue as I am waiting on some more of Mike Lane's excellent upgrade sets - one of which will require the temporary removal of the front jump seat and the telephone unit. Due to this, and still needing to replace my bent steering column, I will not be securing the interior at this time. As soon as I get the mods installed, I will replace the steering column, replace the HT leads in their correct fashion, and then carry on with the build as in the magazines.

Until then, here is what I have done this month so far.



This is the final rail of equipment to go in the back. These two components have pins to ensure they go in the correct way, facing away from each other.



It seems odd to me that these are the only two components that face this way, all the others face towards the back.



These are the next two to be installed, black details facing the back, and also have pins to guide you in the correct alignment.



Which makes it puzzling that the final piece doesn't have a pin, and the location seems square.



With the final piece secured in the correct orientation, the entire rail can be screwed into the interior.



My rail was bowed slightly, but as I screwed it down [starting in one of the middle locations and cross-tightening] it flattened out without problem.



The next stage includes the final couple of details, and the gurney rails.



The pure grey box goes on this side, screwed in from underneath. I was a little disappointed that the rear of this piece is hollow, and that from some angles looking forwards from the rear, that empty back is visible. Maybe something that I will take a look at filling with some plastic sheet and painting.



The other detail goes on the opposite side and is attached to the side wall. No visible empty space at the back.



The gurney rails go down like this, according to the instructions. Whether I let them stay this way or not will depend on the size of the gurney wheels. I would like to swap the rails around so that the raised sections are on the inside of each rail, but if the gurney wheels are thick, that might not give them enough room to sit between the rails.



Lastly for this stage, we now get to secure the dash to the rest of the interior.



In stage 65, we install the circuit board, speaker, and a load of wiring. We also receive the four stands to hold the vehicle off the ground - the same stands as supplied with the Back to the Future Delorean time machine.

This is the stage I have cut short for the moment, waiting to secure the interior until after I have done some extra work.



Firstly, we have to deal with the board. That's a lot of wires! It doesn't help that the wires don't seem particularly organised to me. I am not an electronics specialist, but it seems to me that when you have long wires to go to the front of the vehicle, short wires to go to the side, and very short wires to go to the rear, it would make sense to have the long wires connect at the front of the board, the short wires to connect on the correct side, and the very short wires connecting to the rear of the board.

Unfortunately this is not the case. Firstly, I used some of Mike Lane's cable ties to help sort the wires as they are muddled into each other when I got them. This allows me to separate the different length wires from each other and keep them tidy. Small, standard cable ties would do the same job, and be easier to put on. Cotton could also be used to tie the wires together. I didn't have any, and was unsure if they will fit without straining under the interior. There are some strips of self adhesive supplied to stick the wires down to the chassis.



The board has to be screwed to the chassis in this orientation. This leaves the long wires being connected at the back of the board and having to come over the top before heading to the front of the vehicle, and the short wires coming off the right side of the board and going over the top to the left side of the vehicle.



The speaker is placed here. I orientated it this way to give as much length of wire towards the board as possible, not wanting any tension on the wires at all.



This is then held in place with the bracket and two screws. The yellow speaker wires are connected, followed by the red/black main power wires from the battery box.

That is where I have left it for now. Whilst I am waiting for the next mods to arrive, it shouldn't be much of a hassle to get the other bits of work done replacing the HT leads in the engine to their correct places on the distributor, and making a back to that one box in the rear. If the plasticard I have is thin enough, I may be able to get away with just gluing a piece to the back of the box and painting it grey.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
delboy271155
#126 Posted : 05 March 2021 12:24:34
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Hi Coser, BigGrin

Looking good Cool

Plenty of wiring in this one and more to come.

I got a shock yesterday when issue 19 (stages 67-70) arrived. Didn`t arrive in the usual plastic envelope, came in a large box. Blink


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






mogwai
#127 Posted : 05 March 2021 13:47:19

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Hi coming along well,as del says issue 19 is big old box got mine yesterday to cheers mick.BigGrin
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Coser
#128 Posted : 05 March 2021 14:25:20

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Yes, Issue 19 is a bit on the big side. I'm a month behind the both of you, and the "World of Wayne" YouTube channel. I've already seen what the frames look like, and how big they are.

After all, they have to be as long as needs be given the length of the chassis. Wayne has just started the Enterprise 'D' and, although a smaller scale than my 1:350 classic enterprise, she's going to be a bigger ship to find room for. Glad I'm going for the classic.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#129 Posted : 10 March 2021 21:59:18

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OK, so got a load of work done on installing some mods on this.



The seatbacks are self-adhesive and really easy to install. It's not that necessary a mod, to be honest, just hiding the screw holes, but I think it does improve the look of that area a lot.



Here is the rear of the front seats as supplied.



And then again with the first back installed.

I then moved on to the carpets in the rear.



This is the comprehensive set. All the carpets, grill, and trim.



The location for the main set of carpets. To get all the carpets and trim in, the front wall will need to be temporarily removed, along with the phone unit, and the side wall on the other side.



Initially I thought this would suffice, but ended up removing the front wall later in the process.



Firstly, I placed the carpet on the floor. The idea being that if I didn't get it perfectly to the edge, the pieces on the walls may cover up any gaps and I would end up with a better effect overall.

The carpets in this set are trickier than those in the front, mainly due to the restricted access in this area.



I then placed the side carpet. This has a cut-out for the grill, and another where the front jump seat will go. I'm not 100% happy with how I placed this, but it's good enough.



I then installed the piece on the front wall. This is a single piece and just goes along the single surface.



The rear wall is the longest wall, as it goes all the way around the details and ends up at the same surface as the front wall.



Once all the carpets are installed, the trims need to be glued in place. These are metal angle strips with mitred edges to fit into place in the corners.



This is how the seat area looks once the carpets and trims are installed. Now for the other side.



The side wall had to be unscrewed slightly and lifted up. The trim passes underneath it slightly, and once the trim was glued down, the wall was re-secured.

EDIT: I have not installed the grill yet. It's self-adhesive so no problems there. I just wanted to paint it first to give it a little more contrast with the plain black of the wall behind it. I plan to get some Alclad Black Chrome on it as soon as I have an opening in the weather.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#130 Posted : 10 March 2021 23:08:09

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Second set of work for today. Installing the Delco battery sleeve, replacing my bent steering column, and re-working the HT leads to the correct places on the distributor. I chose to do all of this at once as a lot of it required stripping out the walls of the engine bay, and doing it once was better than doing it three times.



With the engine bay walls removed, I took the front wall with the radiator on it.



I removed the battery from the wall. The Delco sticker which was part of the detail pack I had previously bought and installed is unfortunately going to have to be removed.





Once I had ensured all the adhesive and paper from the sticker had been removed, I folded the sleeve around the battery. The sleeve is also self-adhesive.



Once the sleeve has been installed, it's just a case of attaching it back to the front wall. Removing the wall seemed like the best option to me, you need to get under the battery to remove it from the wall. The only other detail I will do here is that the caps on the top of the battery are plastic, not metal, and will be painted yellow.

I had by this time unpacked the replacement steering column and installed it. trying to do this without stripping the entire chassis is difficult, but not impossible. I removed the three screws securing the engine to the chassis. This gave the engine just enough lift to get a thin screwdriver in and remove the top from the steering box. Once the column has been replaced, the steering box is once again secured, and the engine screws replaced.

This completed, I moved on to the HT leads.



This is how the leads are if you have followed the instructions. Each HT lead going from it's cylinder to the corresponding position on the distributor.



This is the diagram (From the "World of Wayne" YouTube channel) that I followed for the correct placement of the leads. This is the order the cylinders heed to fire in the engine for it to run correctly.



With all the previous HT leads removed, and the central lead and coil removed, I started again with this lead. Going by the diagram, this is the number 2 lead going to the front cylinder on the right hand side. This is the longest lead. Until I had all leads installed in the distributor and going through the correct holes in the guides, I didn't cut them to length or install them on the spark plugs.



Second lead installed. The number 7 lead, to the rearmost cylinder on the left hand side and one of the shortest leads.



I continued working on the leads plugged into the front of the distributor until I had the first four leads installed. At this point I re-installed the coil, and turned the car around as I was in danger of confusing myself doing the wiring with the car facing the opposite way to that shown in the diagram.











So this continues until all the leads have been replaced. At this point, all the connections have been glued and all the leads run through the correct holes in the guides.



The leads were then pushed on to the spark plugs, the leads were shortened where necessary. The longer leads didn't need shortening, but the new configuration means that the short leads are still too long.

That's it for now, but I do still have the grill to paint and some other things to install. It may be a while before I finish off this month's delivery, finishing the wiring and screwing the interior onto the chassis.

Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#131 Posted : 12 March 2021 12:05:16

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And managed to get some airbrushing in yesterday, between bouts of wind and rain.



This is the grill from the jump seat carpet set. I have given it a coat of Alclad Gloss Black Base, Black Chrome, then Gloss Lacquer.



And then fitted it in position using the self adhesive on the back. I really like the effect of this, and kinda wish I had done the carpet trims the same way. I don't think this is 100% accurate, but I do like the effect on the grill having made more contrast between it and the black behind it.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#132 Posted : 06 May 2021 20:39:11

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I finally got my issue 21 today.

Now I have to call CS as I'm still waiting on issues 19 and 20. Confused Glare Mad LOL
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#133 Posted : 12 May 2021 19:38:03

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And received a reply to my e-mail today. I can expect my replacement issues 19 and 20 with my next issue (22) next month.

Sorry for the delay in this thread, but hopefully next month will be a huge update. Not another missing delivery.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
delboy271155
#134 Posted : 12 May 2021 21:34:39
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Coser wrote:
And received a reply to my e-mail today. I can expect my replacement issues 19 and 20 with my next issue (22) next month.

Sorry for the delay in this thread, but hopefully next month will be a huge update. Not another missing delivery.



Hope it all pans out as promised for you. BigGrin

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






Coser
#135 Posted : 27 May 2021 13:54:20

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Issue 22 arrived this morning. Just issue 22. No issue 19 or 20.

Considering I pay yearly and ahead of receiving anything for the year, I'm right cheesed off. Emailed CS again, hope this now is considered deserving of getting the customer what is required before the next scheduled delivery as I have now only received half of the last 4 month's deliveries, and have not been able to work on this in almost 5 months.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#136 Posted : 28 May 2021 14:09:54

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So I got a reply from CS.

Parts from issue 19 are now out of stock. They are, however, now sending me a replacement issue 20. Whilst this means I still cannot continue with the build, at least I should not get into the situation where when the parts for issue 19 are back in stock, the parts for issue 20 have gone out of stock.

Meanwhile, my Powermod from ModelModz has arrived. I have e-mailed Chloe a question about the placement for the connector, and once I have a reply, I will install it and add that to this thread. I think that the placement of the connector that is linked from the ModelModz website, and has been shown in a video from the World of Wayne YouTube channel, is needlessly complicated. They show the internal connector being installed in the side of the battery compartment/fuel tank, meaning it is installed in one half and then the other half is closed around it. I am wondering if it wouldn't be better to install it in the now defunct battery compartment door. The external connector is of the 90 degree type anyway, so clearance between the connector and the surface the car is resting on won't be a problem.

I should have that update in a few days.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#137 Posted : 13 July 2021 17:13:16

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Aaaaaaaaaaaand we're back!

Finally my issue 19 arrived today. It's a big one!

I will need a day or two to make sure I have everything clear in my mind, then I should be able to get back to posting on this thread. There are some electronics for the first stage of issue 19, and I'm not sure I actually did the extension leads they plug into.

Other than that, issue 19 is the main frames, so this thing is going to grow real fast for a while. I'll probably work on the frames later today, but keep the pictures until I can get them all done in the correct order.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
mogwai
#138 Posted : 14 July 2021 10:59:28

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Hi glad you finally got your issue 19 mine is up to issue 24,but there's an error on issue 25 the right front door is incorrect as it has a place for door mirror ,which it should not have, but email says correct door will be supplied in stage 107 ,so cant do anything with this pack, may not effect you as you bit behind now ,hope build continues well cheers mick.BigGrin
Builds hms victory, suzuki gsx 1300 R hayabusa, honda C B 750, lamborghini countach L P 500 S, tamiya 1/16 rc full option tiger 1 tank,
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Stash.airfix 1/24 mosquito. Diag Virginia schooner, tamiya 1/6 honda 750, tamiya 1/35 famo, tamiya 1/35 flak 88.
Coser
#139 Posted : 15 July 2021 14:46:24

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Thanks Mick.

I was aware of the issue, it came up on the World of Wayne YouTube channel. It seems that those who got their delivery already will have this problem. Wayne has gone ahead and built the door as it is, with the intention of transferring the parts to the new door when it arrives.

He also stated that later deliveries this month of issue 25 MAY be with the corrected door. Knowing my luck with this so far, I'll still get one with the mirror either way. If that's the case, I'm just not going to do anything with that stage until I have the correct door.

I'm currently continuing with the build - as I now have all the parts available, but I'm going to be skipping stages 65 and 66 for the time being. Both of those are wires/switches/lights and I intend installing the Modelmodz Powermod but have to do a little research. I'm not entirely happy with installing it on the side of the fuel tank and was thinking of going through the bottom instead. This removes any worry as the tank is split horizontally, so you can't tighten the socket against both halves of the tank. However, speaking with Modelmodz, they have said that people have had problems with the powermod in the Delorean pushing the rear wheels off the ground.

I already have the Delorean powermod installed, but have recently purchased the Modelmodz cover for it. I can't recall any problems, but want to check with the new cover plate before I make a final decision on placement. I also wonder about how it will look - the side of the fuel tank will be almost invisible as long as that side is at the back. The design of the fuel tank means the powermod would have to go on the passenger side, leaving the driver's side forward in the case, so I'm OK with that, I'm just worried about keeping the tank closed while I drill a hole in the side. They also remove the actual battery compartment which means you have to glue the battery door shut. I'm thinking of just removing material to allow for the connection and leaving it there for structural support. I'll still glue the door shut, filler it, and paint it, to give a more accurate look (Except for the connector in the side, but I can live with that to get it mains powered.)

So should have my first real update in a while this weekend.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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#140 Posted : 16 July 2021 08:32:10

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Well, that didn't last long.

I have encountered another problem, so I will probably be contacting CS later today. Until I get an answer on that, I will just post my progress so far.

Issue 18, stage 66 and issue 19, stage 67 are wires. I will not be opening those packs until I have installed the powermod as we will then be attaching the interior to the chassis. (I have now decided to install the connector in the side, but retain the actual battery box after removing the wires from it.)

Before I move on with the build proper, I received a request to show a picture of the underside of the circuit board, so here it is.



I also have bought the Mike Lane mod for the back of the jump seat. It's a single piece that attaches to the back of the seat with double sided adhesive that is pre-installed on the seat back.

So first, I removed the rear jump seat from the floor and the rear bar from the seat to facilitate getting this mod on easily.









With the mod installed, I replaced the rear bar on the seat deck, and replaced the seat on the floor.

With that done, I started on issue 19, stage 68. This stage is the bodywork frame around the engine bay.









Install the left one of these plastic parts on the left side of the front body frame.



Repeat for the right part on the right side of the frame.



The hood lock pin is installed in the centre of the frame. There is a section of the otherwise circular pin that has been removed. This fits into the corresponding hole on the frame, and helps stop the pin turning as it is screwed in.





Take the VIN (Vehicle Identification Plate) and install the piece of double sided adhesive on the back.



This is then installed on the right side of the front frame.



The instructions are not terribly clear on which way round the VIN should go, but logically it needs to be read with the car intact, so having it readable from the front of the vehicle like this.



And that completes stage 68.

Stage 69.



Stage 69 is the mid frame.





Remove the braces from the bottom of the frame.





There was an obvious fingerprint in the paint, but I believe this will be behind the dash and therefore am not worried about it.



The front frame is screwed to the mid frame with three screws along the area underneath where the windscreen will be.

Also in this stage we are supposed to add the headlight bulbs, but as I have not opened the pack with those in, I will be waiting until I have done the powermod to be doing that.

Stage 70



Stage 70 is the rear frame. There is a 'tongue and groove' type join along the roof, and two screws on each side.





As before, remove the brace from the underside.







The rear door kick frame is added to the back of the frame.





And then the rear door catch. I don't know if this is actually functional on the model, or not. It looks like it's not.



The rear frame is then connected to the rest of the frame.



This is what it looks like at the end of issue 19 with the frame just placed on the chassis. It's as long as my wingback chair is wide.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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