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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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The Mitsubishi A6 Zero was a long-range carrier-based fighter aircraft operated by the Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service (IJNAS) from 1940-45.
It was designated as the Navy Type 0 Carrier Fighter, which led to its popular name ‘Zero’ among both the Allies and the Japanese, who called it Rei-sen (‘Zero’-sen). The official Allied reporting name was 'Zeke'.
With only modest power but a very light, strong alloy airframe and fittings, the Zero had an excellent combination of speed and manoeuvrability, and with the addition of an external fuel tank (drop tank), it had a very long range.
When it was introduced, the Zero was considered the most capable carrier-based fighter in the world, and by the time Japan’s attack on Pearl Harbor brought it into World War II, it was the primary Japanese naval fighter in the Pacific arena, the Zero was also deployed from land bases.
In early combat operations, the Zero gained a fearsome reputation as a dogfighter, and its combination of excellent flying characteristics and firepower made it more than a match for the Allied aircraft sent against it after Pearl Harbor.
It proved a difficult opponent even for a Spitfire. Although not as fast as the British fighter, the Mitsubishi fighter could out-turn it with ease, sustain a climb at a very steep angle, and stay in the air for three times as long.
However, by mid-1942 a combination of new tactics and the introduction of better equipment enabled the Allied pilots to engage the Zero on more equal terms. Being built for attack, with little armour and no self-sealing tanks, a Zero could be brought down by a short burst delivered in a quick pass. By 1943, such inherent design weaknesses and the increasing lack of more powerful aircraft engines meant that the Zero became less effective against newer enemy fighters that possessed greater firepower, armour and speed, and approached its ability in turns.
A series of variants from Model 11 to 64 progressively upgraded the airframe and power unit. By the time the production lines switched to updated models, 740 type 21's had been completed by Mitsubishi, and another 800 by Nakajima.
More Zeros were built during the course of the war than any other Japanese aircraft, and although the A6M was outdated by 1944, it was never totally supplanted by the newer Japanese aircraft types.
During the final years of the war in the Pacific, the Zero was used in 'Kamikaze' operations.
Several Zero fighters survived the war and examples are on display around the world, a number of which are airworthy.
A6M2 type 0 specifications
• Crew: 1
• Length: 29ft 9in (9.06m)
• Wingspan: 39ft 4in (12m)
• Height: 10ft (3.05m)
• Powerplant: 14-cylinder air-cooled Nakajima Sakae 12 radial engine (950hp)
• Maximum speed: 331mph at 14,930ft (533km/h at 4,550m)
• Maximum range: 1,930 miles (3,105km)
• 2 x 7.7mm Type 97 machine guns in the engine cowling, with 500 rounds per gun
• 2 x wing-mounted 20mm Type 99 cannon, with 60 rounds per gun
• 2 x 60kg bombs or 1 x 250kg (550lb) bomb for a Kamikaze mission
About the model:
The 1/16 scale model is the A6M2b Model 21, which was one of the most widely produced versions of the aircraft, and the type encountered by American forces early in WWII.
Kit content -
- Aluminium airframe
- Pre-formed aluminium sections
- The ailerons, fin and elevators are covered in a self adhesive covering which is to replicate that in real life, these surfaces were covered with a fabric material.
The rest of the wing panels are cover in etched aluminium skin panels.
- Retractable undercarriage with sprung oleo damping, metal wheel rims & rubber tyres
- Nakajima Sakae radial engine (constructed from cast metal parts)
- Cast metal 7.7mm guns and 20mm cannon
- Detailed cockpit & sliding canopy
- LED navigation lighting - (battery stored within the drop tank)
- Operable ailerons, flaps, rudder & elevator
- Folding wing tips
- Movable propeller with operable variable-pitch blades
- Fully detailed fuselage interior and cockpit
- Pedestal display base
The content includes all necessary screw fixings and a small selection of hand-tools, (paint and glue are not included).
Two sets of aircraft ID markings are provided:
AI-102 was assigned to the aircraft carrier Akagi and was flown by Lt. Shindo Saburo in the attack on Pearl Harbor.
1-151 was part of the 201st Air Group during 1942-43 based in Rabaul, New Guinea.
The model can be constructed in one of a number of chosen format's as shown in the photos below...the choice is yours!
Construction sequence:
01-30 Propeller, engine & port wing frame.
31-60 Starboard wing frame, cockpit & canopy.
61-90 Fuselage, tailplane, rudder & lighting.
91-100 Skin panels, drop tank, finishing, decal placement & pedestal display base.
Overall size:
Wingspan: 750mm
Length: 560mm
Weight 1.7kg
Over 700 parts
http://www.youtube.com/w...pA&feature=youtu.be
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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The official build diary will follow the format of the instructions download, and will be constructed half skeleton - half skinned. You are of course free to build, enhance and finish your model how you so choose. The pace of the official build will not keep pace with the subscription rollout. Please Note: Official build diary images & text are protected under UK copyright law.
Parts set #1 - Contains propeller blades, rib #3 of the port wing and medium/fine wet & dry paper.
Start by removing any burrs along the edges of the propeller blades, take note of the inset diagram in the steps and take care not to remove the stop in the groove and the blade alignment mark at the end, and don't damage the gear grooved ends.
Use the wet & dry paper to polish the blades, start with the medium grade and finish off with the fine grade.
To obtain a high polish, I used a liquid metal polish and buffed to a deep shine (T-Cut may work just as well), and when complete you should wipe the blades with a sprit cleaner to remove any residue or finger grease from the blade surfaces before you prime the blades.
If you opt for the 'polished metal' look to the propeller blades & spinner as shown on both versions of the model, you will require a clear metal primer such as Tamiya's 87061 metal primer (aerosol) which is hard to source in the UK, an alternative is this product http://www.modeldesignco...0Metal%20Primer%20Spray
Prime the blades and set aside, it would be an idea to mask the geared ends of the blades to prevent ingress of primer, the blades will be top coated later on.
The blades should be primed as soon as possible after being polished, or you may find if they are left for a while that the blades will tarnish and need be re-polished.
An alternative for the clear polished finish might be to try 'Johnsons Future' (rebranded 'Pledge Multi Surface Wax') as being an alternative to clear primer & clear topcoat.
The first wing rib - Carefully cutaway the part number tab from rib 3, and remove any remaining burr, then apply a small piece of masking tape to the rib and note its part number. (Keep the leftover part number tab).
That's it for this stage, carefully store the parts.
Future parts sets:
Parts #2 - Contains the port wing main spars, ribs 1, 2 & 12, spinner base, propeller shaft & boss, gear ring and screw.
Parts #3 - Contains the engine manifold, rib 4, nut fixing screws, screwdriver, drill bits and micro drill .
Parts #4 - Contains the crankcase, connecting rod case, port wing frame, pair of cylinder halves, fixing screws and tweezers.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Parts set #2 - Contains the port wing main spars, ribs 1, 2 & 12, spinner base, propeller shaft, front & rear boss, gear ring and screw. Remove any burrs from the propeller shaft, spinner base and boss castings. Polish and clear prime the outside edge spinner base in the same manner as before with the propeller blades. Superglue or Epoxy the base of the boss into the spinner base, ensuring that you centrally align the two castings. Fit the propeller shaft through the rear (flat side) of the spinner base, then place the gear ring onto the shaft on the opposite side ensuring that the teeth of the ring face outwards. Apply a small amount of grease to the geared end of a propeller blade, then test fit it into the boss making sure that you align the end mark as shown, then repeat with the other two blades, then place the front half of the boss onto the spinner. Holding the boss and propeller shaft together, gently twist one of the propeller blades, the gearing should make the other blades twist at the same time - Note they only move backwards and forwards a few degrees which is controlled by the stop in the blade channel. When you are happy with the movement and that the blades are correctly positioned, secure the front boss with the screw, leaving the screw loose by 1-2 turns which will be adjusted later. Temporary fitting of the ribs in to the port wing frame - Start by removing the rib part number tags and number them as you did before. Lay the two wing spars out as shown in the photo, note where you will place ribs #3, #12, #1 and #2 which will be fitted in this order. Fit rib #3 into the third slot of the front spar, taking care not to force it, then add the rear spar to the rear slot of rib #3, then fit ribs #12, #1 and #2 into the corresponding slots of both spars, do not glue any of the ribs. That's it for this stage, carefully store the propeller and port wing frame. Future parts sets: Parts #3 - Contains the engine manifold, rib #4, nut, fixing screws, screwdriver, drill bits and micro drill. Parts #4 - Contains the crankcase, connecting rod case, port wing frame, pair of cylinder halves, fixing screws and tweezers. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Parts #3 - Contains the engine manifold pipes, rib #4, manifold nut, screws, screwdriver, 0.7 & 1mm micro drill bits and micro drill. Manifold pipes - Start by carefully removing any burrs from the pipes. Place the large nut into the corresponding recess in the centre of the manifold, then carefully run a little superglue into the gap between the nut and the outerwall, be careful not to get any glue into the central hole of the nut. Spray the manifold using clear metal primer. Drilling the screw holes of the spars - Remove the ribs from the spars and lay the spars as shown in the photo. Locate the tabs marked by red arrows, you will need to drill a 0.7mm hole at each of the marked points using the smaller of the two drill bits provided. All drilling should be carefully supported with such as a wood block beneath the drill point. Once you have drilled the marked 0.7mm holes, swap the drill bit for the 1mm bit (larger of the two), and drill the four blue highlighted holes in the main spar. Drilling of the wing frame - Locate the six drill points highlighted in blue, drill the marked points using the 1mm bit, again be sure to support the drill point beneath. Carefully remove any burrs from all the drilled holes of both spars and the wing frame. Re-fitting the ribs - Carefully cut the tab from rib #4 as before, and tape the part number to it. Carefully refit the ribs into the corresponding spar slots, adding rib #4. Fitting the wing frame - Carefully turn the rib/spar assembly upside down and lay the wing frame in front, then carefully place the wing frame on top lining its the holes with the red highlighted holes of the spars. Place a screw into each hole of the frame, tightening each a little at a time, until the threads begin to grip in the holes, then tighten the screws until they are all flush with the frame. Note that the screws are self-tapping, therefore great care needs to be taken so as not to overtighten them, otherwise there is high risk of stripping the thread. That's it for this stage, carefully store the assembly and the remaining screws. Future parts sets: Parts #4 - Contains the crankcase, connecting rod case, port wing frame, cylinder halves, fixing screws and tweezers. Parts #5 - Contains rib #5, two cylinders and flat-nose pliers. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Parts #4 - Contains the crankase, connecting rod case, port wing frame, pair of cylinder halves, fixing screws and tweezers. Drill out the marked hole points of the wing frame as before with a 1mm bit. Add the frame to the main wing frame and secure in place with 6 screws, start at the butt end and be careful not to overtighten the screws. Take the cylinder halves and carefully remove any burrs from the mating surfaces, the glue both halves together with superglue. If you have opted for a bare metal finish, lightly go over the cylinder head with fine wet and dry paper, to clean and polish, be careful not to remove any of the fine detail. Any visible joint lines can be filled with a suitable model filler, but be careful not to clog the fins. Take the crankcase and connecting rod case and carefully remove any burrs, the metal in this instance is white metal which is quite soft, so be careful you don't overdo it. Carefully align the projections and trial-fit the two together, when you are happy with the fit, separate them and glue together with superglue. Spray the rod case and cylinder head using clear metal primer. Test-fit the projections of the rod case into the centre of the manifold, then test-fit the cylinder head, fitting one of the inlet pipes into the corresponding hole on the back of the cylinder, but do not glue them in place yet. That's it for this stage, carefully store the assemblies and remaining screws. Future parts sets: Parts #5 - Contains rib #5, tube, two cylinders and flat-nose pliers. Parts #6 - Contains rib #6, the front & rear of rib #7, trusses, spinner mount and two cylinders. Parts #7 - Contains the front & rear of rib #8, spinner, connecting rod case and two cylinders. Parts #8 - Contains rib #9 & rib #10, crankcase and two cylinders. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Parts #5 - Contains rib #5, tube section, two cylinders and flat-nose pliers. Start by cutting the tab from rib #5 and as mark as before, then insert into position within the wingframe. Take the aluminium tube and mark a length of 17mm, then cut the tube with a knife blade, apply gentle pressure rolling the tube back an fourth through 360 degrees, do not apply too much pressure otherwise you will flatten the tube. Lightly smooth the cut end, then mark two points upon the tube, 2mm in from each end. Using the flat-nose pliers, flatten one end of the tube up to the marked 2mm point, then flatten the opposite end ensuring that you flatten it to align with the opposite end as shown in the step diagram. Repeat the process with a further two tubes, one 15mm long and the other 12mm long, these will form the first crossbeam's. Carefully remove rib #12 from the wingframe and identify the mount points for the three crossbeam's. Using superglue or 5min epoxy, carefully glue the three crossbeam's into place at the mount points. Once the glue has set, carefully fit rib #12 back into position within the wingframe. Assemble and prime the two cylinders as before, then temporarily fit them into the manifold along side the first cylinder already fitted, do not glue any of the cylinders in place as yet. That's it for this stage, carefully store the assemblies and remaining tube section. Future parts sets: Parts #6 - Contains rib #6, the front & rear of rib #7, truss sections, spinner mount and two cylinders. Parts #7 - Contains the front & rear of rib #8, spinner, connecting rod case and two cylinders. Parts #8 - Contains rib #9 & rib #10, crankcase and two cylinders. Parts #9 - Contains rib #11 & #13, two cylinders and truss sections. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Parts #6 - Contains rib #6, the front & rear of rib #7, trusses, spinner mount and two cylinders. Start by removing the number tag from rib #6 and the front and rear section of rib #7 then number them as before. Temporarily fit rib #6 and the rear section of rib #7 into the corresponding wing frame slots and carefully store the front part of rib #7. Take one of the two 'U' truss sections, carefully cut away the end projection, then measure a length 17mm long. The method used for cutting the trusses is described in the steps, you'll need to cut a further two lengths, 15mm and 12mm, then carefully store the remaining truss for use later in the series. Remove rib #12 from the wingframe and identify the truss mounting points, the trusses should be laid on their side with the slot opening to the right. Start by gluing the 12mm truss in place, followed by the 17 and 15mm truss, then refit rib#12 into the wingframe. The spinner mount needs to be prepared and polished in the same manner that you prepared the propeller blades, and then coated with clear primer. Assemble and prime the two cylinders as before, then temporarily fit them into the manifold. That's it for this stage, carefully store the assemblies and parts. Future parts sets: Parts #7 - Contains the front & rear of rib #8, spinner, connecting rod case and two cylinders. Parts #8 - Contains rib #9 & rib #10, crankcase and two cylinders. Parts #9 - Contains rib #11 & #13, two cylinders and trusses. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Parts #7 - Contains the front & rear of rib #8, spinner, connecting rod case and two cylinders. Start by removing the number tag from the two sections of rib #8 and number them as before. Temporarily fit rib the front part of rib #8 into position in the front spar, and then fit the rear of rib #8 into position in the rear spar. Take the spinner, prepare, polish and clear prime in the same manner that you prepared the propeller blades & spinner mount. Remove the connecting rod case from the manifold. Take a 1mm drill bit and make a depth of 1.5mm upon bit with tape. Locate the drill points around the connecting rod case, then drill each point of the casting 1.5mm deep. Assemble and clear prime the two cylinders as before. Carefully remove any burrs from the connecting rod case supplied in this parts set, clear prime and set aside. If you are painting your model, the steps say to paint black the manifold & cylinders, and paint the both halves of the connecting rod case light grey. Gather all seven cylinders & both connecting rod cases, glue the large connecting rod case into place on the manifold, followed by the cylinders and the smaller connecting rod case. Temporarily fit the spinner mount onto the propeller assembly and add the spinner to it, do not glue these in place as yet. That's it for this stage, carefully store the wingframe, propeller and manifold assemblies. Future parts sets: Parts #8 - Contains rib #9 & rib #10, crankcase and two cylinders. Parts #9 - Contains rib #11 & #13, two cylinders and truss sections. Parts #10 - Contains rib #14 & rib #15, two cylinders and a gun casting. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Parts #8 - Contains ribs #9 & #10, a crankcase and two cylinders. Start by removing the part number tag from rib #9 & #10 and number the ribs as before. Check the front lower edge of rib #9 for a burr and carefully remove with a fine file. Temporarily fit rib #9 & #10 into position in the front spar of the wingframe. Assemble and paint the two cylinders black as before. Check the crankcase for any burrs, prime and paint grey to match the previous crankcase castings. Glue the crankcase casting onto the manifold, followed by the two cylinders. That's it for this stage, carefully store the wingframe and manifold. Future parts sets: Parts #9 - Contains rib #11 & #13, two cylinders and truss sections. Parts #10 -Contains rib #14 & rib #15, two cylinders and a gun casting. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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