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Imperial Yacht Standart, Pack 9, Stages 79-88.
Stage 79 Contents: Parts Fret
Refer to the instructions to aid the identification of the parts used in this stage.
Remove parts A, B and C from the forward superstructure fret supplied with this stage and sand the edges smooth. Take one of the pieces ‘B’ and glue into position on part ‘A’, ensure it is the correct way round and square. Glue the second piece ‘B’ into piece A, parallel to the first. Test-fit and glue piece ‘C’ at the end of ‘A’, between the two ‘B’ pieces.
Now remove pieces D, E and F from the fret and sand the edges smooth. Test-fit and glue piece ‘D’ into ‘A’ and at the ends of pieces ‘B’. Test-fit and glue the two pieces ‘E’ either side of ‘D’, and into ‘A’. Now test-fit and glue piece ‘F’ at the end of ‘A’, between the two pieces ‘E’. When the glue has dried completely, sand the superstructure smooth.
Retrieve the two skylights assembled in stage 57, Hold one against the side of the superstructure and mark the end onto the side. Repeat on the other side. Cut a length of 1x3mm wooden strip to fit from the mark just made to the end of the superstructure. Then cut another length to fit vertically, ending 3mm below the top. Glue the two pieces into place then repeat on the other side. Now glue two more lengths of 1x3mm wooden strip along the bottom edge of the superstructure, at the other end.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 80 Contents: Etch Parts Fret and Davits.
The instructions doesn't mention this but I decided to paint the inner bulwarks gloss black at this stage. Easier to paint the now before the capping is glued in place.
Remove the parts from the fret supplied with stage 63 and retrieve the seven wooden strips also supplied with stage 63. Sand all these items smooth then apply a coat of primer and paint them matt white.
Glue the bow piece onto the foredeck, the piece should overlap the forward edge by 1mm. Take the two stern pieces, test-fit and glue into position, overlapping the aft edge slightly. Continue the rail forward from the two pieces just fitted, by gluing the painted 2x3mm strips on top of the bulwarks, on both sides. Cut a small length of 2x3mm wooden strip to fit on the bulwark up to the gap, repeat on the other side. Now glue another strip from the other side of the gap forward, do the same on the other side. Glue two 2x3mm strips from the foredeck aft along the bulwarks, covering the openings. Then cut two more lengths of 2x3mm strips to complete the rails on either side.
Remove the circle from the fret supplied with stage 64 and the frame piece from the etch fret supplied with this stage. Curve the frame piece to fit around the wooden circle. Turn the tabs on the cylindrical piece inward, then separate and file smooth the circular etch piece from the fret. Turn the cylindrical piece over and glue the etch circle inside it, on the inward-turned tabs. Separate the stairs from the fret and carefully fold up the railings. Glue the ladder to the assembly. When dry, paint the assembly with metal primer, then apply a coat of matt white paint. Paint the steps brown and the railing mahogany.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 81 Contents: Brass Wire, Vent and Stanchions
Retrieve the stern superstructure and drill five 0.75mm holes along the narrower edge of the deck. the holes should be 1mm away from the edge of the deck planking, with the outer two holes positioned 3mm in on either side, spacing the rest of the holes evenly.
Separate the stanchions from the fret and file to remove any burrs. Test-fit the stanchions into the holes just drilled, making sure the tops of the stanchions are all aligned. Adjust the heights of them if necessary, then glue into place. Now drill four 0.75mm holes in the deck along the port side, 4mm forward of those just fitted. The last one should be in line with the front of the overhang at the side. Test-fit and glue four stanchions into the holes, then repeat on the starboard side of the superstructure. Drill seven more holes along the starboard side of the superstructure as shown in step 7 of the instructions, then test-fit and glue stanchions into the holes.
Retrieve the platform assembled in stage 80 and glue it between the compass stand and the square hole in the deck. Retrieve the binnacle from stage 25 and glue it forward of the centre line of the circular platform.
Paint a strip of 1x3mm wooden strip mahogany, then paint the cleats from stage 61 with metal primer. When dry, paint the cleats brass. Cut the painted wooden strip into eight 13mm lengths, then glue lengths together in sets of two to make four platforms. Glue the cleats into the centre of the platforms then paint the cut ends mahogany. Glue the fours assembled cleats into the positions on either side of the main deck, as shown in step 13 of the instructions.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 82 Contents: Brass Wire, Vent and Stanchions
Drill twelve 0.75mm holes along the starboard side of the superstructure. The holes should start 12mm forward of the last stanchion fitted and the rest spaced every 12mm. Separate the stanchions from the etch fret and file smooth. Test-fit the stanchions the holes just drilled, making sure that they are all the same height. When all the stanchions are aligned, glue them into place.
Now drill seven holes along the front of the deck, 1mm in from the edge of the planking. The outer holes should be positioned 4mm in from the sides, with the rest of the holes 7mm apart. Test-fit and glue stanchions into the holes, ensuring that they are all aligned. The remaining stanchion should be glued into a hole drilled in the port side of the deck, as shown in step 7 of the instructions. Make sure it is aligned with the others.
Retrieve the boiler room assembly from stage 67. Test-fit the two newest vents into position. Retrieve the second boiler room assembly and drill six holes in it at the positions shown in step 9 of the instructions. Test-fit the funnel and two vents along the centre of the boiler room.
Retrieve the clear plastic sheet and cut two 10mm wide strips, long enough to fit the length of the inside of the boiler rooms. Glue both lengths inside one of the boiler rooms, underneath the skylights. Now repeat this on the second boiler room.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 83 Contents: Brass Wire, Vent and Stanchions
Drill 18 more 0.75mm holes in the aft superstructure deck, going forward to the front of the deck. All the holes along the side should be at a distance of 12mm from each other. Separate 18 stanchions from the fret and remove any burrs with a fine file. Test-fit the stanchions into the new holes then glue into place ensuring that they are aligned.
Retrieve the windlass from stage 74 and glue it to the deck, 20mm aft of the rectangular cut out. Now glue the compass from stage 43 to the deck, 5mm forward of the raised stern section. Glue the two binnacles from stage 29, 4mm away from the compass on either side, 3mm forward of the raised stern section. Glue the helm from stage 63 onto the raised stern section, making sure it is central.
Now paint the two fairleads supplied with stage 62 brass, then glue onto the rail, either side of the stern, 25mm away from the centre line.
Cut two 17x48mm pieces of the clear plastic sheet. Mark lines across them, 5mm in from either side. Score along the lines making sure you don’t cut all the way through, then bend the end pieces up 90 degrees. Glue the pieces of plastic inside the two hatches assembled in stages 42 and 47.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 84 Contents: Cannon Mount, Cannon, Brass Wire and Stanchions
Retrieve the etch parts fret supplied with Stage 53 and remove one of the shoulder pads from it. Prepare the gun and mount in the same way as the others then glue the parts together.
Test-fit the rudder in place, checking that there is a slight gap surrounding it to allow freedom of movement. Drill a 0.75mm hole in the top of the rudder, about 7mm deep. You can mark the depth on the drill bit with a piece of tape. (Note: The instructions here state to cut a length of 0.75mm brass wire to glue into the hole. I do not see anywhere within the kit where 0.75mm brass wire is supplied. The wire supplied is either too thin or too thick to use for this purpose, so I used 0.7mm planking pins and this did the job just as well). Glue the pin (with the pin head removed) in place leaving about 4mm protruding from the top.
Use the top of the protruding wire in the rudder to mark a point on the hull where the corresponding hole needs to be drilled. Remove the rudder and drill the hole in the hull, then fit the rudder into position. Hold the rudder in place and drill down through the keel into the rudder. Apply a drop of instant adhesive to the hole in the bottom of the keel, then pass a planking pin through the hole into the bottom of the rudder. Keep turning the rudder while the glue dries to ensure it does not get stuck.
Retrieve the propellers and propeller cones from stages 3 and 25, then insert the cones into the propellers. Drill 1.5mm holes in the propeller mounts the same length as the corresponding shaft of the cones. Make sure that the hole in centred. Apply a drop of instant adhesive inside the hole, then fit the propeller. Keep turning the propeller while the glue is drying to make sure it does not get stuck. Repeat the process to fit the propeller on the other side.
The instructions say to remove the stern piece from the work stand. I chose to leave it in place for now.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 85 Contents: Superstructure fret and Stanchions
Refer to the instructions to aid the identification of the parts used in this stage.
Separate one piece ‘A’, two pieces ‘B’ and one piece ‘C’ from the superstructure fret. Sand the pieces smooth to remove the joins. Glue the two pieces ‘B’ to the sides of piece ‘A’. Retrieve the forward superstructure and glue the assembly just made into the side extension. Glue piece ‘C’ to the end of the superstructure, ensuring everything is square.
Now separate another set of pieces ‘A’, ‘B’ and ‘C’ from the fret and sand the smooth. Assemble pieces ‘A’ and ‘B’ in the same way as before then glue them to the superstructure on the opposite side. Glue piece ‘C’ into the end of the side extension of the superstructure.
Separate one piece ‘E’ and two pieces ‘D’ from the fret and sand smooth. Now glue one piece ‘D’ to the superstructure, up against ‘C’. Glue the second piece ‘D’ opposite the first, then glue piece ’E’ between the tops of them. Ensure everything is square. When the glue has dried, sand all the seams of the assembly flush, not forgetting to sand the tops flush as well.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 86 Contents: Superstructure Fret, Brass Wire and Stanchions
Take the two 1x1200mm lengths of brass wire supplied with stages 75 and 76, straighten the wires out as much as possible. Clamp the ends of the two in a vice and then twist the wires together along the whole length. Try and twist so that there is a full rotation around every 12mm.
Retrieve the starboard bow decoration from stage 1 and hold it against the bow. Mark along the bottom edge of the decoration onto the hull, then repeat with the other bow decoration (from stage 3) on the other side.
Take the twisted wire and glue it along the starboard side of the hull, below the line marked at the bow. Try to keep the wire at an equal distance from the rail all the way along. (I made up a small jig to help with keeping the same distance). Make sure the wire continues to the centre line at the stern.
Now twist the two lengths of 0.5x1200mm bass wire supplied with stages 61 and 81 in the same way, making the full turn in around 5mm. Glue the twisted length from the centre line at the bow going aft, at the same height as the deck. Make sure the wire stays an equal distance from the rail, finishing at the centre line at the stern.
Repeat the process of attaching the twisted wires onto the other side of the hull. When the glue has dried, paint the brass wire with clear varnish. Touch up any areas of the hull that may be needed.
Take a 100mm of 1x3mm wooden strip and paint it black. Cut the strip into six lengths to cover the base of the opening in the bulwarks. Glue the strips into place.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 87 Contents: Vent and Brass Wire
Drill a 4mm hole in the bow, above the brass wire. Retrieve the figurehead from stage 1 and the two bow decorations. Insert a file or a 4mm piece of wooden dowel into the hole just made, then glue t figurehead onto the bow using the file or dowel to position it at the correct height. Now glue the port and starboard decorations into position on either side of the bow, up against the figurehead.
Drill five 0.75mm holes along the portside of the forward deck, starting from the centre and working aft, spacing them evenly. Then drill another hole 3mm in from the last hole at the forward edge. Drill holes to match on the starboard side.
Remove 11 stanchions from the fret supplied with stage 84 and file off any burrs. Glue the 11 stanchions into the holes just made, making sure that all the stanchions match the positions shown in step 6 of the instructions.
Cut seven 13mm lengths of 1x3mm wooden strip and sand them smooth. Glue lengthways two sets of two together and one set of three. Once the glue has dried, paint the pieces black. Glue the two sets of two strips next to the bow openings. Glue the three-piece strip on the centre line, 20mm aft of the foredeck. Then paint black the brass strips between the two-piece strips and the bulwarks.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 88 Contents: Plastic Sheet, Davit and Cleats
Take the davit and remove any burrs or flash. Paint with metal primer and when dry, apply a coat of white paint. File the two cleats smooth and paint with metal primer, then paint them brass.
Sand a 1x3mm wooden strip smooth then paint mahogany. Cut the strip into four 13mm lengths and glue two strips together, side by side. When the glue dries, glue the cleats onto the centre and paint the ends of the strip's mahogany. Glue the cleats onto the deck at the bow, in line with the third line marked on the brass strips along the side.
Retrieve the two skylights prepared in stage 40. Cut two pieces of plastic sheet and test-fit in the skylight, then glue into place. Retrieve the two skylights prepared in stage 75. Cut two pieces from the plastic sheet and test-fit in the skylight, then glue into place.
Stage complete.
Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future use.
This completes Pack 9 Gandale attached the following image(s):
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