Ok Ronald, looks like we’re getting somewhere. The filler should be dry now so next you need to do some sanding. Take your time with this and keep checking the reference image (last pic) showing the shape you are trying to achieve.

Sand the area outlined in blue (first pic), using a rounded motion as shown in second pic. Do not remove material from the rib edge (shown in red). When you think you have achieved the desired curve then move on and do the same to the other side. Post pics when done....

Regards

Alan

HI Alan
I just finished cleaning up and evening out the stern front when I notice you
sent me a new post, I'm sorry I must have missed the post with the 3 photos
with instructions to start sanding in certain areas as described, anyway I have
a photo showing the front of the stern cleaned up and even, also I wasn't
going to touch the top areas until you say so, but it looks like you got the
jumped on me LOL, so I guess I can start sanding the curved top, anyway what
you think of the front of the stern P.S. the shape in the last photo you want
me to achieve that goes for the whole stern all the way to the keel
right (second photo) it was the one with red cycle around it but wanted you to
view this one first
Ronald

HI Alan
in my defense Sir. I have not ignored any of your instructions on the contrary I
did exactly what you told me to do and what not to do I did not shape the
red area as instructed I only sanded the areas you instructed to sand no more
less I will show you in the photos, along with the photos you want
Ronald

Hi Ronald, I need two pics taken from the side, square on. As shown by the red arrow on the pic below. I need to be able to see the profile of the stern from both sides

Regards

Alan

ok Alan I see what you want

Hi Alan
I am trying to grasp what you are saying as far as the stern planks,( pre-drill holes along the planks),ok.do not pin the very end of the plank I understand that, but one tiny question can I pre-drill a hole near the end like rib 30 yes or no, but I do not understand your last instructions, you want me to pin planks where the red line is, but do not glue it and pin it to the stern rib is that correct, if so could you suggest certain ribs to pin the planks to so I can get the planks right, or can you tell me the two planks up top are they near the stern or in the middle like the last photo with the red marks on it, before I take any pictures, I want to get this right that is why I'm asking these questions
Ronald

1) ok so the top planks you mention where the red mark is do you want them near
the stern right since you mentioned not to pin them to the stern rib it's the
only conclusion I came to, you are looking for dips or humps, I understand now
2) when doing the the first planks follow the instructions, but don't glue them
in place only pin the planks in place except near the very end, one question
since I am getting ready to place the first stern plank in place may I ask you
what method of bending you used for the tight turn at the corner did you use a
crimper for that because I saw indentations on the inside, if how did you do
that did you wet the planks, because I practiced on a few pieces wet and dry and
found out they crack when done dry and bent better when wet or damp, your input
please thank you
Ronald

Hi Ronald, I do not want to interfere in any way with what Alan is trying to show/instruct you in. However there is a (incomplete!) set of videos on YouTube. They are NOT the DeAgostini Official Build but there are two episodes that cover what you are trying to do. Having a visual might help you understand 'a method' of how this bit might be done. Note I am not building the Victory myself.
The relevant videos are episodes 18 & 19

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=...3HqOzD8Y3F2&index=18

Good luck!

Sue

Hi Ronald, in relation to your step 3 confusion. Where it says to not to cut to fit yet it means do not cut it at the end nearest the bow where it meets the previous plank on that row. The end of the plank nearest the bow will be cut to fit after you have the curved end of the plank completed.

Will be back to you very soon with my response to your other queries...

Regards

Alan

Question 1 – The planks you are temporarily fitting where the red lines are can overhang rib 30, just don’t pin to rib 30. Pin the planks in place on any ribs, it doesn’t matter which ones. Like I said, I’m simply looking at the flow of the hull to see if there are any dips or bumps.

Question 2 - First, think of the reason why planks break or crack when you are trying to bend them. This is usually down to the plank not being flexible enough and should be soaked more. For this bend I would certainly soak, not simply wet, soak the planks for at least 12 hours. The second reason would be you’re trying to force the bend into place rather than tease it into place. Take it slow and if you feel the resistance to the bend is too much then soak more.

The method I normally use is as follows:



Soak the planks, making sure they are flexible.


Use the plank bender and slowly tease the bend into place. If the plank dries out then soak for another 10 mins and do the same again.


If the bend needs to be tighter still then I’d start using a crimper to tease the bend required. With the crimper, ensure you use the blunt end of the blade, the sharp end is used for actually cutting planks. Also, don’t apply too much pressure when using the crimper, if you do then you’re likely to start crushing the wood rather than induce a bend.

When doing this first plank, get the bend done for both sides then lets take a look. Once the bend is correct then we can look at applying the twist. Don’t forget to chamfer the edge of the plank as shown in step 5.

Regards

Alan