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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 187 Points: 526 Location: tidworth
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great pics and info there lads
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 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/03/2010 Posts: 600 Points: 1,959 Location: Solway West Cumbria
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Superb pics guys ....thanks 
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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The picture shows a strange looking block with the Corronade from the 3rd Edition magazine which does not look like a conventional block and tackle. It also differs from the Carronade block shown on the completed model. I hope we are not going to see quality issues creeping in, can someone reassure me that I am looking too deeply into this in my impatient wait to get my subscribed editions.  Macmedal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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my point excatly, seems we have bought up the same issues - http://forum.model-space....aspx?g=posts&t=357
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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It seems we have noticed different things with the Carronade kit. Looking again closely you can see a few differences in the construction between the the two so it is clearly a different kit. I know admin has said that the magazine kit is updated from the boxed kit, but I would have hoped that the demonstration model would have been the actual kit we are going to get and not just a representation or if it has been updated it is a superior model not inferior.
I will be kit bashing (if thats what it is called) as we go along, but I hope that I am not going to have to spend a fortune and a great deal of extra time just to get things looking authentic because the base kit is inferior to what it should be. My main concern at the moment is that block and tackle, the small detail is important to me and that item does not just look like what I was expecting !
Sorry to seem like an old moaner but we are all investing a great deal of time, money and enthusiasm here and I want to make sure that as a rank amateur ship builder I am going down the right path in buying this magazine kit.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 278 Points: 833 Location: Nottingham
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Great info and pics guys thanks. Pam's shipyard is closed for now no more room!
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/03/2010 Posts: 270 Points: 837 Location: Nr. Dartford,
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That block is definatly overscale and therefore unlikely to go on my model.  I wood rather have a correctly scaled plastic block than that one.  Sorry, but I think you got to say what you think. 
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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The sight of the Carronade in WH Smiths led to a moment of weakness and despite still waiting for my subcriptions for Part 2 & 3 I bought it. The blocks are slightly better than anticipated but I thnk you are right they appear out of scale and the wire has also thrown me a bit. But let the fun begin ! Looking forward to seeing other peoples efforts again.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/03/2010 Posts: 600 Points: 1,959 Location: Solway West Cumbria
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Can't wait for this thing to arrive....as for the painting of it .....i'm still undecided.. 
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Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/01/2010 Posts: 459 Points: 1,367 Location: Bridlington
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 219 Points: 585 Location: Faversham
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Great pics guys.... thanks very much _____________________________________
Currently building:-
Deagostini HMS Victory
Amati Black Pearl
Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90 Scale
Caldercraft HMS Victory 1:72
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/03/2010 Posts: 270 Points: 837 Location: Nr. Dartford,
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We can all make our own from those fine drawings. Who needs kits?
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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I have made a start on the Carronade it is deceptive how much work is required compared to to the 12 pounder. I am positioning the eyebolts slightly differently than shown in the magazine to fall in line with the Victory photos. I have also gone for the sliding slot which is shown clearly on the sliding bed of the Victory photos, quite a challenge to get that cut out but think it has gone well !
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Does anyone know what metal the canon, corronade and anchor are made out of? I had intended on using brass blackener to get all the metal (primarily brass) parts to a nice balck/iron look. However I'd need to strip the canon, corronade etc 1st and am a little nervous that if I do that, I'll find the substance underneath is something I can't blacken.
Thanks in advance
Alex
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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They are not made out of brass, they are made out of a white metal alloy, so I don't know what effect your brass blackener would have of the metal !
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/03/2010 Posts: 13 Points: 29
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In issue 3 they said it got to drill four holes in side (bottom large one)  but in the picture there have 2 holes in bottom large and other 2 holes in top should I follow everything what issue 3 say or I choose drill side holes like that picture. sorry about my english grammer cos I'm deaf and not very well with grammer
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 202 Points: 528 Location: Bedfordshire
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snake wrote:In issue 3 they said it got to drill four holes in side (bottom large one) but in the picture there have 2 holes in bottom large and other 2 holes in top should I follow everything what issue 3 say or I choose drill side holes like that picture. sorry about my english grammer cos I'm deaf and not very well with grammer If you notice there is 2 pictures the one on the left shows the positioning for the holes in the side and the picture on the right shows the holes on the top Hope this helps Allan
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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snake wrote:In issue 3 they said it got to drill four holes in side (bottom large one) but in the picture there have 2 holes in bottom large and other 2 holes in top should I follow everything what issue 3 say or I choose drill side holes like that picture. sorry about my english grammer cos I'm deaf and not very well with grammer Drill as per this photo, i.e. in total you should have 11 holes, the 11th being for the Pivot. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/03/2010 Posts: 13 Points: 29
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thank you for comment, but why its show different from photo and issue 3 as you see 1-4 to drill hole but * did not show in issue 3 
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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Whilst I cut the eyelets off some size 14 fish hooks (you'll need eye protection and some blu tac - see tips thread), you could make extra 'hoops' by twisting some brass wire around a thin, round object (a thick needle, a bradle or similar). The model is supplied with some wooden blocks which are to be used to make part of the tackle (Instructions in next weeks issue #4), yet in some of the photos above the tackle is either missing or is used in combination with the thick rope that passes through the thimble, the ends of all securing ropes being tied to the hull. Would it be correct to model both the tackle and the thick securing rope? Schnellboots on back burner
Tools.
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