A great update.
It's really looking good so far so please keep it coming.

Now with all the wires, I have completed the work on this issue.







So this is what we will be working on this month. Firstly, we will wire up the circuit board from last month, then install it in the fuel tank, and work on the boot area of the car.

Stage 56





This is the circuit board.







We add the wires around the board. Note that the sockets are numbered, but the numbers are not sequential. The wires seem the same length, so the numbering is only to ensure the correct switch activated the correct action. As long as you know which number wire is connected to which number socket, it shouldn't be a problem. (I made sure to correct the wires to the same number sockets to make the other connections as easy as possible. I'm not organised enough to do otherwise.)



With all the wires attached, the board is screwed to the underside of the fuel tank plate from last month. This now completes the work that should have been completed last month.

Stage 57





The 10 wires from the board are bunched in the following manner. The 5 wires at the top are run through the large hole just above the board. The other wires are split the 2 wires to the left, and 3 wires to the right.



The two halves of the fuel tank are now screwed together, the wires exiting the fuel tank like so.

Stage 58





This will form the basics of the boot. The wall is screwed in to the floor from underneath.



This is then attached to the fuel tank.





Stage 59



Stage 59 is mainly the two fuel pumps installed in the boot.



The two pumps are different. The differences are not a problem, as the connections are also different it is easy to get them in correctly. (Not necessarily that easy to keep them there, but I'll explain that in a minute.)



The first pump goes in at the back, the second in front of it.



The connections look like this.



With the connector for the first pump noticeably wider than the connector for the second pump.



The first 2 fuel lines. The shorter one goes to the bottom of the first pump, the longer one to the top of that pump.



The other 2 hoses are attached to these and connect the second pump.



The only other parts in this stage are for the boot catch.





The first part is screwed to the side of the boot like this.





These components are screwed together. They must be tight, but movable.
This assembly is then pushed on to the side of the boot.



And that is it for this stage. I'll finish off this months build in the next post.

Ooops!

Last month was actually month 8, but my month 9 delivery arrived this morning so let's get cracking.



This month we finally build the main parts of the steering system and work on some of the bodywork.



Stage 65 is finishing off the driver belts and a single part for the front firewall. Unfortunately the belts require the roll hoop from the first delivery, and I have that in a box I don't have immediate access to. I will add those as an addendum later.





Stage 66 is the oil vapour chamber for the firewall and the air pipe.



Take the small pipe, and insert it in the smaller hole in the chamber. These holes are 'D' shaped, so can only go in one way.



The longer pipe goes in the other hole, again only being able to go in one way.





The silver filler cap is then pushed in.





This assembly is them placed into the firewall.





Agora do note that is needs to go flush to the firewall. In my case this was not immediately possible, but their advised remedy worked. To get the chamber to fit flush, I had to remove the speaker from the other side, remove some flash from the holes, install the chamber, and then re-install the speaker.



The air pipe is then pushed on to the base of the firewall like so.



Stage 67, steering shaft and gear bracket.





This is where Agora recommend doing something I routinely do with screws going into metal. Cut the threads first, then attach the components. This technique will make it much easier to put the cam gear cover onto the bracket without straining any of the screws in their holes.

Before I put any of the parts together I take one of the screws, dip it in a little oil, and screw it into the hole. Screw it in for about a turn, back it out for half a turn, and repeat until the screw bottoms out. Once all screw threads have been cut, remove the screw. [there are always spare screws, so one can be used specifically for this purpose.]





With all the threads cut, the bracket goes on the front left of the chassis frame. There is a pin that goes through the middle hole in the bracket, the outer two holes are where the screws go.





We then come to the trickiest part of this month's build. The steering shaft includes three universal joints, and has to be threaded between the central exhausts to end up with the gear end siting in the cam gear bracket. This took a while, and the use of some tweezers.



The gear is then secured with the cover.



Stage 68 finalises the steering system in the engine bay.



With the holes in the tops of the steering posts threaded



One of the small springs are dropped over the post.





The steering rod is placed so that the geared section is meshed with the cam gear on the end of the steering shaft. This will mean that the ends bend forward slightly. The rod is then secured with a flanged screw.



The steering is complete once both ends are secure. At this point you can turn one of the road wheels and the other will follow. You will need to hold the lose end of the steering shaft to ensure it doesn't catch. The wheels no longer drop when you pick the model up.

Next, we work on the boot lid and doors.

Sorry for the delay with this thread. I had trouble finding the parts I needed, then once I had them, the lead to connect my camera to my PC wouldn't work.

However, I have finished off the last bits of work from the last stage, and this months delivery, got the pictures transferred, converted, and uploaded, so here we go.

Finishing off last month's build included adding the driver's belts to the roll hoop, and attaching the steering wheel.



This set of parts is the fixings for the driver's belts and a single long part for the firewall. We start with the driver's belts.



We start by taking the new parts and the roll hoop from pack 1.



The two smaller parts have different sized notches. They need to go on the correct side of the hoop.



They are screwed to the longer part so that the parts are attached through the holes on the left side. The right side holes on each of the small parts take the silver ring details that the belts attach to.



And the belts are then attached to the rings in the same way the passenger belts were attached.



That is all we do with these parts for now, they will need to be kept safely again.



The longer part is then attached to the firewall.



And again, that is all we do with that for now.



The only other part I needed from last month was the steering wheel.





The steering column it threaded through the dash like so. There is a collar on the column so you can't push it through too far.



The steering wheel is pushed on the end of the column. This is a 'D' connection to ensure alignment.



This is as far as I could get the steering wheel by hand. I needed some WD-40, a small rubber block I have, and a small hobby hammer, to get the steering wheel on fully so that there was no gap between the steering wheel and the dash, and the steering column collar and the back of the dash.

I then connected the bottom of the steering column and the section of the steering connected to the cog. When this was done, it was obvious that the steering wheel was out of alignment with the front wheels.



To fix this, I removed the rod connecting both wheels, the one with the toothed section. This allowed me to turn the steering wheel without it effecting the position of the wheels. Once the steering wheel was in line with the front wheels, I re-attached the rod.



That's it for this little catch up session. I'll get this months pack up as soon as I've uploaded the pictures.

Hmm, don't know why the last post hasn't appeared. I'll do it again.

Stage 79



Starting on the radiator.





Take the first half of the radiator, and the photoetch radiator grill. Note the two arcs in the PE part which match the locations of the two inlet/outlets. The radiator has two pins and two screw locations.



Screw them together like this.



Take the oil cooler and this cooler grill.



Place it in the concave face of the cooler.





Take the other grill and bend up the legs like this. Note that the grooves in the legs go inward of the bends



Slot the legs through the holes in both the cooler and the grill on the concave side.



Bend the legs inwards as far as you can on the concave side, trapping all the parts together.

Stage 80



Take the other side of the radiator, and affix to the radiator side we did in stage 79.



Note that there is a slot made up from a cut-out in each half. Make sure these slots are together before screwing these parts together.





Take the other grill and screw to the face of the second radiator component.

Stage 81



This stage we get the cooler mount, the two fan blades, and the two fan motors.





Place the oil cooler assembly from stage 79 into the cooler mount. Note the way that the cooler sits in the mount. Due to the shapes, this is the only way it will fit. That's all for this stage.

Stage 82



Stage 82 gives us the radiator mounting frame.



First, take a fan motor and insert it into the keyed hole in the frame.



Screw a fan onto the motor, ensuring the float of the fan goes against the frame. This leaves a longer tube sticking out the back where the screw goes.

Repeat for the other fan in the second hole.



Slide the oil cooler mount into the radiator mounting frame like this.

This is the end of this months build, but I couldn't leave without showing you how the radiator will fit into this frame.



Oh, and next month ..... BODYWORK!
[I'm so excited...and I just can't hide it...I'm about to lose control and I think I like it!]

Stage 89. Electrical wires.





This stage is very quick. In fact, I don't understand why it is necessary at all. All that is required is to match the numbered wires and connect them, extending the original wires. I would not have been worried about having a 99 stage build rather than a 100 stage build and having the wires already installed prior to this stage being the same length as they become after this stage.

Stage 90. Left fender grill and front jacking pads.





The fender grill is inserted and secured by a pin and single screw.



The front jacking pads are inserted into the front of the bodywork. The flat sides of the pads are to go to the inside, facing the air intake opening in the centre of the body. They are secured by a single screw from the inside. Note that these pads support the entire weight of the real car, but WON'T hold the weight of this model.

Stage 91. Right fender grill and rear jacking pads.



Stage 91 is almost the same as stage 90. Jacking pads are secured by a single screw, and the fender grill is also secured by a single screw.





With this completed, we get to fit the bonnet and the radiator assembly. The radiator assembly traps the hood hinges and allows the hood to be installed.



With the hood in place, I taped it closed. The catches at the back of the hood can also be used to keep it in place. The bodywork was then turned upside-down and placed on the polystyrene which the body came in.



The radiator assembly is screwed in with two screws - just below the intakes in this picture.

Stage 92. Front left indicator and left rear light and LED.









The front indicator is assembled from these two parts. The connection is keyed so that the lens goes in the reflector in the correct orientation.



This is then placed in the front of the bodywork. This connection is also of a type that ensures it can only go in the correct way round.



The rear light is made up of a red lens, silver reflector, and a black back part. These are pushed together, all can only go one way due to the connectors.



This assembly is pushed into the rear of the body, then secured with a single screw.



The LED is then pushed in from inside the body. I found mine was a little loose and kept coming out. A small amount of "Micro Krystal Klear" around the back of the LED and body solved this.

Stage 93.

Stage 93 is just the right side versions of stage 92. When you have finished this, you have both front indicators and both rear lights installed.





Stage 94. Anti-sway bar and hood support.





The anti-sway bar is installed on the chassis. Bring over the chassis, turn it upside-down with the front towards you. The anti-sway bar should be installed with it angled towards the top of the engine.



With the chassis turned back the right side up, install the hood support clip into the recess in the right fender liner. I had problems with my boot support coming off the place it was supposed to be secured and ended up using a small drop of superglue to fix that in place, and dud the same here. Using a cocktail stick I ran a thin layer of superglue in the recess and placed the support clip in the recess.



The hood support itself gets threaded through a hole on the right hand side of the bonnet opening. This need to be inserted and twisted so that it can rotate in the hole but not come out.



Once you have familiarised yourself with opening and supporting the bonnet, close and lock it. The support can be taped to the underside of the bonnet or the side of the body somewhere.

Stage 95. Headlights.



Take one out at a time. The parts are handed in the pack and this will prevent you from getting the lenses on the wrong reflectors.



The lenses are keyed to go in the correct reflector at the correct angle.



The lenses are secured into the bodywork with a single screw from the inside.

Stage 96. Mirror, windscreen, wipers, boot, and roll bar back tube.







We start this stage with the rear view mirror. This is a single part with an adhesive reflector section.



Unfortunately, I was not happy with how I had stuck the adhesive section down. It was obviously not going all the way to one end and was up slightly on the rim at the other. In trying to remove it to try again, the adhesive split the backing. It looks like this was paper and won't stand up to being removed and placed again.



I removed the material on the main section and scratched it up a bit with my scalpel.



Using a thin layer of "Micro Krystal Klear" again I glued the reflector in place. I don't mind that there is a bit of a gap on the edge furthest away from the connector. This mirror is secured to the bodywork just inside the windscreen, so that edge will hardly ever be seen and having the edge closest to the connector being tidy will look better.





The windscreen is now placed on the body and secured from underneath with 3 screws.



The two windscreen wipers are also installed here. They are marked 'L' and 'R' to allow them to be placed in the correct area. Each wiper is secured from the underside with a single small screw. This is another operation where I included a little MKK glue to assist this process.

Although the parts for this stage include the roll bar rear tube and mount, they are not used in this stage, but are kept for later.

Stage 97. Fuel cap and air filter.



Due to my missing part and paint damage, I didn't do the rest of this stage but will add that once the replacements arrive.



The black part is not symmetrical, there is a thin recess on one side and a much deeper recess on the other side. I installed the photoetch part in the side with the shallower recess.



I bent the two legs on the photoetch and slid them through the slots. They go through into recesses in the walls on the other side, which makes them difficult to bend over again and secure the photoetch. I don't know if the idea is to glue the legs from the rear side (This would actually have been easier, and wouldn't have effected the finish.) but I used my scalpel blade to bend them over.

This part should then be placed in the air intake scoop in the chassis. As I cannot finish this stage anyway, I have left that for now.



These are the parts for the fuel filler cap. The parts are a press fit which allows the cap to open and close.



The cap base is slotted into the collar.



The two pins in the cap can be inserted into the holes at the back of the cap base. One pin is longer than the other, so I inserted that one first, then the other.



The clasp goes on in a similar manner, and the assembly is screwed to the body from underneath.





I may paint the centre of the recess in the body matt black to represent the inside of the fuel filler pipe.

That is all I have completed so far. I'll finish off as soon as the replacement parts arrive. (Well worth the £15 including postage as it is my fault the parts are missing or damaged.)