|
|
 Rank: Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
 Evening Folks.....thanks for taking the time to comment ....appreciated  Slow progress with planking between the lower frames (watermark line is further up the frames) My aim is to achieve a smooth finish rather than a pretty one as it will be covered with a second planking or summit else   Hats off to you Folks who do single planked period ships where the planks are in symmetry on each side  This ship should actually have four torpedo tubes. Fwd, aft, port and stbd midship but this model only has the fwd one represented  Anyhoos some pics off progress so far Thanks for lookin' budgie attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Coming on beautifully Budgie! She is going to be a monster like the others have said! My very first wooden ship model was the Constructo Grimsby 'English Frigate' - about 1/72 scale and single planked with 2mm thick sapelle planks. Fortunately, my workroom back then was on the back of the garage, plenty of ventilation and (using my first book on planking for help) I soaked the planks overnight in neat household ammonia in a huge glass laboratory test tube thingy. The next day they were bendy enough to pin to the ribs and dry in-situ before trimming them to size and gluing in place. The first time I came across double planking was building my brother's DelPrado Bounty and my own DelPrado HMS Victory - cor, what a difference! This one's going to look fantastic! Best of luck... Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
Hi Robyn thanks for your reply really appreciated as thought I was talking to my self  Idealy I would like to skin the hull with styrene as I have ample supplies from previous attempts (failed) Sticking styrene to a wooden base maybe a bit expensive with contact glue or a 2 part epoxy Sitting on seteee reading thru the telly mags for inspiration hoping that something might be good on telly over the Crimbo period Why don't I use the mag as hull covering Picked that inspiration from looking at Doris's build of several period ships mmmmm cheap  Sounds like a plan
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
Hi Folks Managed to damage 2 upper frames when removing the elastic bands ...must have gotten stuck in the slots when I removed them I have photocopied those frames again and will glue either side of the damaged area Have started working up the way between frames 1 - 7 Glued in strips similar to the lower hull for planks to sit on between the frames The fwd area between frames 3 and 6 ..the hull is rounded to join the upper deck...like a cross between Stickies U boat and Tigerace''s Schnellboot I have made more of those frames to give me a larger surface area to play on when it comes to shaping those lines. Well that's the plan Thanks for lookin' budgie attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite     Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
|
Planking looks very good. You are making a really nice job of this one so much so it looks as good as a pre cut out commercial kit. There are always slight issues like those 2 frames breaking but you are well skilled in putting that right. Tony Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
birdaj2 wrote:Planking looks very good.
You are making a really nice job of this one so much so it looks as good as a pre cut out commercial kit.
There are always slight issues like those 2 frames breaking but you are well skilled in putting that right.
Tony Hi Tony Thanks for the reply I am quite chuffed with how the lower planking has turned out so far I will be a bit more worried when it comes to the area around the rudder and props Anyhoos Folks not done a great deal this week but pics of progress so far Perhaps will get a bit more time over the ???"festive"??? period Hope Santa is good to you's and brings you the models and tools you's want Merry Xmas A'body budgie attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
|
Hi Budgie Just come across this one and it is (as they say here in OZ) a real ripper... I note with keen interest you are using 2 and 3mm MDF so I shall be following this build very closely to get some hints on my Adelaide... I wanted to use 2mm MDF but it's not available here... Keep going mate, it's looking terrific.... Regards JohnP
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
[quote=John Passmore]Hi Budgie I note with keen interest you are using 2 and 3mm MDF so I shall be following this build very closely to get some hints on my Adelaide... I wanted to use 2mm MDF but it's not available here... Hi John, thanks for lookin' Been following your build and I am doing the opposite from you  Trust me to get it back to front I am using 2mm for the keel and frames and 3mm for planking in-between the frames only because I am building as a card model Will be following your build with interest I am wondering whether your frames will be wide enough to join 2 strips of planking (unless your planks are a meter long so you don't need to )
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
Hi Folks Plodding along slowly filling in the spaces Sanding as I am going along but cannot continue sanding so it is flush with the upper frames at the moment As the upper frames are not as wide as the lower ones I have stopped sanding in case I remove too much of the lower planking Thinking about it, I think I should add a row of the second planking thus giving an edge not to go below Next I will need to make a sanding block by gluing sand paper to one surface only I can then run the "baldy" part of the block along the edge of the 2nd planking till sanded flush with the frames Sounds like a plan This could have been avoided if I started from the top and worked down Thanks for lookin' budgie attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
|
budgie wrote:[quote=John Passmore]Hi Budgie I note with keen interest you are using 2 and 3mm MDF so I shall be following this build very closely to get some hints on my Adelaide... I wanted to use 2mm MDF but it's not available here... Hi John, thanks for lookin' Been following your build and I am doing the opposite from you Trust me to get it back to front I am using 2mm for the keel and frames and 3mm for planking in-between the frames only because I am building as a card model Will be following your build with interest I am wondering whether your frames will be wide enough to join 2 strips of planking (unless your planks are a meter long so you don't need to ) Hi Budgie Thanks for following my progress - I think we can help each other without doubt - even though our builds are different!.... Re your last query here there is a post in my diary that explains my plans for the hull skin.... Regards JohnP JohnP
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
Hi Folks  Making slow progress filling in the gaps ..but getting there Blooming' freezing in the shed Sanding a bit more to break the monotony of filling Bad news is am having to do this by hand ... Good news is I can turn off the portable heater Thanks for lookin' budgie attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Making excellent progress Budgie despite the mishap with the frames... Very well done.... Regards Alan
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
Thanks for lookin' Alan Still sanding way at the hull Decided to attempt "rounding" the upper part of the fwd hull which reminds me of a Schnellboot or Submarine Think the shape is getting there and should improve with a 2nd covering I will not be laying the deck template on TOP of the frames I will be laying in-between the frames and sanding flush with the top This should give me a depth for laying planks  Thanks for lookin' budgie attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
Afternoon Folks Furlough day for me so spent sometime in the shed Some deck templates were cut out to see if I had wandered off course, hull too thick ,thin, short or long but seems not too bad. Humming and hawing over whether I should use them, they are 2mm thick but when I lay the deck planks will it be to high Will need to check Vic or SOS diaries to see what the minimum thickness of the deck planking was used Too thin and I won't get the planking effect Glued some strips for upper bulkheads which will need to be sanded flush with frames Thanks for lookin' budgie attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Coming on beautifully as usual budgie! You can see the graceful lines of the hull appearing now. With regards to the deck planks, could you make the wooden decks with a thin wood veneer on top of the 2mm decks instead of thicker wooden planks? Keep them coming, really enjoying this! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
|
You are doing a brilliant job on your build. Interesting to hear you work from your shed. I need to get a modelling space setup so how do you find it working in the shed? Do you have any issues with your wood projects getting damp for instance? I so want to get a space were i can set up and just dip in and out on a build as the fancy takes. As it is everything gets packed away and its so often i think “lets build” only to then think “no point as by the time you set up its bed time :-)” Hope the test of your build continues well. Tony Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
Thanks for lookin’ Gents @ Robin If I use a thin veneer I don’t think I will-see the lines between the planks especially if I they require sanding This brings up an old argument —“at such and such scale would you see the lines between the planks” IMHO probably not but it makes the model look a lot more interesting @Tony In this weather I have noticed loose sheets of paper lying about in the shed is very obviously showing signs of dampness. Also some card templates glued to the MDF can show signs after a few days. I cover the model with an old blanket once finished for the night. If I was building a period ship like the Vic or SOS I would bring the model indoors after working on her during the winter months
|
|
|
|
|
This is really coming along beautifully... Very interesting to see how you're overcoming the problems she's presenting to you.... Very well done, very impressive indeed..... Regards Alan
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
Afternoon Folks Cheers Alan Fed up sanding the hull ..just doing a wee bit at a time probably subconsciously delaying the shaping around prop area Need to get some shapes added to keep me motivated Starting with an easy bit...I hope .. the gun platforms midships Templates already enlarged Pic 1 shows colour card to be stuck to plain template for platforms Thickness measured from card and doubled Don’t have 8 or 6mm mdf or ply but do have 2 3 and 5mm so platforms were cut on 3mm mdf and stuck on to another piece of 3 and 5mm to make up the height budgie attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
|
Good Evening Folks Decided to add the decks to aid in shaping the hull As the 1/200 scale decks are 1mm I have used 2mm mdf There are 2 further card layers on top of this (1/200 scale)1 for the metal deck and another showing the wooden planking I thought it safe to progress The aft deck and the midship deck fitted with an acceptable tolerance with being enlarged and my abilities But the fwd deck looks a bit short Evel Kineval would have difficulty in crossing that gap If the keel was too long then the other false decks would not have slotted in to their designated places I will re photocopy this deck template as it does not fit on 1 sheet of A3 incase I erred on joining the two templates together Thanks for lookin' budgie attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
US
